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2018 sportline 280 in business grey... Jb4'd, this is picture from today after I've ceramic coated her...scrubs up well for a 3 year old girl 👀

Glad to see some new contributors to the thread, and some lovely looking motors! It's been a few weeks for me as I've been stupidly busy with work, but I've done a few things to the motor this past weekend. New 18" OEM Vega alloys with Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 5s all round. I got a bit of a bargain on the wheels, so I'm super happy there. 4 x new tyres has made an incredible difference to all aspects of the car's performance too, which is wonderful. Anyway, this is a detailing thread! I've applied 2 layers of Gyeon G2 Rim ceramic coating to the alloys, so fingers crossed it holds up as well as the reviews suggest. It was super easy to work with; almost too easy, which makes me wonder if I was doing it wrong! haha. Once the wheels were installed, I took advantage of each corner being lifted by applying an even coat of Autoglym performance dressing gel to the tyres. The day before, I'd given the car a good clean after quite a bit of driving over the previous fortnight (bugs galore!). Process (& products); Alloy clean (Autoglym Magma - first time using it and it was quite impressive) Jet wash to loosen dirt up on the body and blast off the magma from the wheels Snow foam (AD purple velvet) 2 bucket method wash (Sonax gloss, using hog hair brushes to get into the crevices). I did this in steps, as it was so hot - contact wash, pressure wash and dry a section before going on to avoid water stains). Dry (woolly mammoth towel & a cheaper Kent towel to assist) Here it is, clean and with new shoes;

Hey Guys, I bought my 2019 superb Sportline Plus 272 4x4 a couple of months ago and have been adding my own touches to it since. I think I’m now at a point where I’m happy ... for the time being. Full list of mods below (a couple done by previous owner but most by me) 20” GMP Italia Angel Alloys Painted brake callipers gloss red Climair wind deflectors Tinted windows Boot edge protector Smoked headlights Smoked tail lights Maxton front splitter (v3) Maxton side skirts Maxton spats Maxton rear valance Maxton spoiler extension De badged rear Black Skoda badges Metal shift paddles Hard wired dash cam Rear facing baby cam and monitor OEM tablet holder in rear headrest Previous owner did a resonator and muffler delete - it’s far too loud for me so will be getting a customs exhaust - question is do I leave original tail pipes or go for quad pipe? More mods in the future methinks - please fee free to follow me on Instagram @sportlineplusuk IMG_0529.MOV IMG_0529.MOV

Perfect! One of the coils blew the fuse. Replaced it with a spare and all good. Thanks so much for suggesting that fuse. We’d checked a couple of others based on another post somewhere, but didn’t go down the list looking for other likely fuses to check.

A proper old school bike like mine! In fact not even old school by my standards, its the newest bike I have ever owned, when I was a bike mad teenager my father gave me a bike that was owned by a Canadian drifter who was working in his factory before moving on, it was probably 30 years old with rod pull brakes etc, me and my friends thought it hilarious, had never seen anything so old and called it a tramps bike because the guy had been rough sleeping to save money. I bet when the kids see me now on my newest ever bike they laugh just as much and say the same thing A very steep hill that I have taken 3 times this week on various length routes defeated me once and I had to push the bike up it, I had hit 50km just before it, the very next day still tired from the 62km ride I hit it again after 22km and had no real problem riding up it.

1) VCDS is a product created by a company in the USA called Ross-Tech. I think it used to be called VAG-COM in days of old. It is a diagosis and configuration tool for VAG cars. 2) There are two possible ways of interpreting that question - a) AutoScan for the Radio for presets? or VCDS AutoScan. The latter is shown here: https://www.ross-tech.com/vcds/tour/main_screen.php 3) You need to procure a HEX-V2 dongle to plug into the CANBUS connector under the driver's right foot. You will also need a copy of the ross-tech software. You can get both of these from Glendan - the UK retailers of the software. https://www.gendan.co.uk/product_VCHNU.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwyZmEBhCpARIsALIzmnLKiuPOSd9VUU-BEjxekLPcfnFmBZN2JyEonF3KjgJBLO6wFFpZvIwaAiObEALw_wcB 4) That's been answered above - however - there are variations for MK3 Facelifted models that I can help with.

Welcome to the forum. Go to someplace else. Do not let them do the work. They are taking the Michael. Likely trying to fleece you. Best you talk to someone at the Dealership that knows what they are talking about. Your 4 year old car has a DQ200 7 Speed DSG that has no Service Schedule or Guidelines and no Oil change at 4 years / 40,000 miles or ever. They are going to have to show the discs and pads are really needing replaced and that they are not just upselling parts. ? Was the Brake Fluid changed last Year? Was the Pollen Filter changed at 2 or 3 years, that might need replacing. The Air Filter might need replacing. The spark plugs might need replacing.

When you said you changed about 3 sensors, you meant brake pedal switches, yeah? The wiring to the engine ECU is the inner two wires of the 4-way connector, pins 2 and 3. Pin 2 (red/grey wire) should have continuity to engine ECU pin 65 after changing colour to a white/red wire at pin 12 of a white 15-way connector in the plenum. Pin 3, red/white wire should have 12V when engine is running.

As above, have you checked the settings on the info unit?

@bigman1976I was going to say gloss levels were amazing looking at the first post but certainly up'd it again with the Sigma. Awesome work. Funny how many in this thread mention kids! I think Can Coat is brilliant for gloss but like you I did end up missing a few spots when removing. I used this to top mine up before I re-did it recently. I've split the wife's Qashqai into three sessions so far. One more to go, makes it easier on back and shoulders too!

My car came with 3 keys, one of which featured metal, shiny ends and became the main one, and two more in a full black plastic enclosure. I noticed that even before the 2 year mark the "premium" one with the metal bits has got a few marks on its plastic body and even more weird, considering I have always kept it in a separate little pouch and hardly ever take it out of it (it's got KESSY), the little Skoda logo on it seems to have become discoloured even with its minimal exposure So I was wondering about replacing the fob with a brand new one, the full plastic body + metal end bits My question is can the key be safely transplanted to a new case/fob and if so any idea of the OEM part numbers without dropping by the dealership?

A mouseover says that's a page on ar$ebook . Wouldn't a real firm of lawyers have their own named website even if they were named say "Fleecem and Scarper"?

They're advisories; ignore them until they become failures. One one occasion I had "advisory; only 7mm tread remaining on front tyres". I'd had new fronts fitted 1_500 miles before the MoT,

Thanks for all the assistance. I have had the springs and shocks changed and the height is now at least an inch higher. Hopefully this will solve the grounding issue.

Are you not able to keep to the limit then? It's not sarcasm, mate, I've never really understood why anyone needs to be warned that there's a camera ahead.

J.R. I think it's worth a call and speak to them at least, as the images may be just images. I think mine is also 80mph at mid-day (12 o'clock)

Has anyone checked what fault codes are being produced? This could be something as simple as a faulty reductor ring on one wheel.

I didn't think there was a gear position sensor on a manual. There is a sensor to say if it's in neutral but I thought the gear selected was just a calculation of revs vs speed.

I put a jack under the balljoint (I use the supplied scissor jack under the ballljoint if I have the car on my trolley jack) and apply pressure CAREFULLY which forces the balljoint taper back into the control arm allowing the nut to be slackened off.

I haven't clicked on the link but they are all a 'scam' of some sort, regardless - even if they are legitimate or not they are simply out to make themselves money (not you!)... they'll suggest you are owed compensation for VW's emissions defeat devices and mis-selling but, at the end of the day, what specified 'loss' do you deserve compensation for??

You can also get a "dongle" for VCDS, it's called HEX-NET which can be either connected to a Windows PC using a USB cable or over WiFi, or can connect to a mobile phone/tablet running any web browser as it can generate it's own WiFi access point.

The 1D code above on the motor housing is '400879' This snowflake breaks out into... *00401350A800R0711501120596*

Fronts usually have a sensor on the left side for wear. Rears are used by the adaptive cruise control braking so they wear more than the fronts. Mine were done recently at 28k miles as they were near the knuckle while the fronts are fine. As for changing you’ll require a diagnostic tool such as VCDS, OBD11, Carista etc to place the electric handbrake motors in the retracted position to change the pads.

Just to add to #3 above: What would i need to purchase for me to be able to enable some features? - Either a copy of the VCDS Software for your laptop and the necessary cables to plug your laptop into the Car OR - a wireless dongle and the obdeleven app for your phone from https://obdeleven.com/en/ Both will allow you to scan your car for errors and clear them and also enable some features.

I took mine to a local wheel refurbishing place. Done in satin black for £40. Had them on for over 3 years now with no chips, corrosion etc.

It's normally closed, circuit broken by pressing pedal. Wiring colours etc already posted.

Have a look here for some tried and tested VCDS adaptations.

LED headlights too

Hey bud thanks for the message tyres are 235/35/r20. Suspension is stock - I thought about lowering but quite like the look as is at the moment. I was worried about going for 20’s after reading forums etc but honestly I can hardly tell the difference from 19’s - a little more bumpy when hitting a pot hole but to be fair it’s not hugely noticeable! The alloys are anthracite grey. Rieger kit looks good but I couldn’t seem to find anywhere with decent delivery times in U.K. - maybe this is sorted now post Brexit etc

That's great info! Thanks for that - I'll update here when I have an update Thank you loads!!!

I left my car with the garage (after being contacted and arranged by Kate Laws, like others on here) on Saturday. They could give me no idea if when I would get it back. They said that they have already had a car in for over a month to no avail. I am not willing to leave my car in indefinitely while driving around in a garage car with a £750 excess that is an inferior spec to my own car. I will give them two weeks, and if I hear nothing back, I will contact Kate Laws. No mention of any compensation etc either. Very poor. After getting my slSuperb (which is still great) I had only good things to say about Skoda. But this has really out me off getting another car from them in the future.

Everyone is new to EVs, so not many understand how a heat pump works. Seems like a good opportunity to make money, by 'adding' a heat pump and its almost all profit.

My order is at the same spot as yours @Shelvock, hopefully they catch a ship soon (mine has been there since 15th April). in this article it suggests chip situation won't get any better until late 2021 or early 2022: https://www.carmagazine.co.uk/amp/car-news/industry-news/global-chip-shortage/ So estimates of next year might be common place for a while now!

Picture from Jonny Smith's 'Late Brake Show' of the Ioniq 5 and Kona. It is a big car.

No that was 2019..

This is the plastic wheel nut cover removal tool

Little dunnock

I’ve got a 2l diesel DSG kodiaq SE spec. so far (5500 miles) it’s returned 42mpg overall but I can get over 50 with more reasonable driving. But to be fair I do drive it hard. I pay for mileage at work not fuel. The DSG is very good in comparison to many autos I’ve driven (over 35 years) , will change down when needed and is usually in the right gear. I often leave it in sport mode though so it changes up a bit later. I’d certainly recommend it over a manual. The boot in the 7 seat loses a fair bit depth over the 5 seat but only you can make that decision. I would say though that the extra seats are really only suitable for children or small , flexible adults! Regarding luxuries. The se is perfectly serviceable. AC , climate control, good media system. What more do you need?

While I do fairly short milages 100 to 200 round trips I don't begrudge premium fuel and I like to believe I get something back in better mpg and pulling power.

It's a Petrol TSI engine. Please note there are TWO water pumps on this engine. Which one is leaking? The mechanical one is on the opposite side from the timing belt so is not touched when the timing belt is changed. It is integrated in with the thermostat housing and is on the gearbox side of the engine. The other is electrically driven and is at the front of the engine. Is the noise the tyres? Thanks, AG Falco

I’ve since topped off the paint using Garage Therapy Sigma. The gloss levels and slickness of the paint are obscene!

It gets the new developed e-DQ200 DSG, the cars move off in Electric mode. So all should be good. That is how VW have dealt with any issues that they might have had which obviously they never ever did have, because 'We have never heard of that before', 'Never seen that', but they forget the Sales People that say 'They all do that.' The gear changes will be fantastic, if no physical buttons and knobs for heating / fan speeds / demists etc a car that is a total PITA. If the touch screens are slow then really NFFP.

Housing sand blasted and ready for repainting

New Sachs performancea pressurre plate and organic friction disc

Long post warning, but this is not something that can be explained in a few lines. Anyone who says otherwise doesn't know as much as they think they do. Ok, so EGR & DPF are different things, doing different jobs. The emissions update can affect longevity of either but in different ways. Between some correspondence of my own with VAG in Ireland, and reading through papers from UK parliament on the matter, two things were established about the update: Increased use of EGR to directly control NOx formation during the combustion process Increased soot generation to allow passive reduction of NOx by oxidising soot held in the DPF Some background on how/why this is so. NOx forms during the combustion process due to the 'burning' of atmospheric nitrogen that has been brought into the engine. The temperature and pressure present during combustion create suitable conditions for this to happen. Nitrogen and fuel are competing for oxygen during combustion. In engines that run rich (more fuel than the available oxygen can consume), NOx generation is minimal as oxygen will more readily react with fuel rather than nitrogen. But this is not desirable for economy or other criterion pollutants. Also, in diesel engines, running rich makes them run hot which is undesirable as well. Engines that run lean are more economical but the excess of oxygen present means conditions favour production of more NOx. DIesels have always had this problem as diesel engines are happier running lean. Modern DI petrol engines which support lean running are also vulnerable to increased NOx generation. One other aspect of combustion behaviour is that regardless of how much oxygen is present, a certain gas volume is needed to ensure adequate distribution of fuel droplets and vapour so that combustion can initiate. Too close is bad as the concentration of fuel vapour between droplets won't get down below the Upper Flammability Limit and combustion won't initiate or propagate. EGR helps solve this conundrum. Exhaust gas is much lower in oxygen than fresh air obviously, making it relatively inert from a combustion perspective. The trick with EGR is that it uses this inert exhaust gas to displace some fresh air from the combustion process, so now there's less excess oxygen available to form NOx, but it maintains the same gas volume in the cylinder, so there's still enough distribution of fuel in there to allow the combustion process to proceed. It generally only operates at low engine loads where fuel requirement is minimal and there would otherwise be a lot of excess oxygen in the cylinder. When the load ramps up and fuel/air ratio approaches stoichiometric, EGR would cause more problems than it solves. The emissions update increases EGR under low-moderate loads, which is what most of the EU test cycle is run at, but probably has changed very little at higher loads. The reason some EGRs are dying after it is that they have gotten gunked up over the life of the vehicle prior to the update, but only outside of the range of movement they would have operated within. The update commanding wider EGR opening means pushing the valve into that gunk and some of them get stuck and fail. Once replaced, a similar failure in future is unlikely, beyond the normal life expectancy of the component, as any subsequent gunking will be outside the new range of movement. Now DPF. Its job is pretty self-explanatory. All DI engines (petrol or diesel) produce soot, it's an inevitable side effect of spray combustion processes. Diesels have been DI for much longer than petrols, and have until recently received the lion's share of attention when it comes to reducing/eliminating particulate emissions. (Euro 6 has brought in a requirement for particulate filters on petrols.) DPFs are a filter matrix designed to capture soot from the exhaust and hold it until a predetermined amount is stored at which point the engine shifts its operating parameters and ignites the soot to clear the filter. A small amount of ash (mostly from lubricating oil that's made it into the exhaust) gets left behind, and this eventually kills the DPF but it takes a while. Now NOx comes back into the picture. Nitrous oxides are themselves pretty decent oxidisers, as evidenced by their use in a lot of rocket motors for that purpose (a bit easier to handle than liquid oxygen). Even with EGR and other combustion management strategies to minimise NOx generation during combustion, there's still some amount of it generated and this needs to be dealt with. One strategy employed to deal with this is set up the DPF so that the NOx passing through it in the exhaust gas stream oxidises some of the soot collected in it, turning it into CO2 and nitrogen. This process passively regenerates the DPF also, eliminating soot during normal engine operation. Which is what most EA189 engines in Skodas do. The emissions update increased soot generation to use it as a NOx reduction measure in the DPF. It's not going to affect the amount of oil ash getting into the filter. The only way it might shorten the DPF life is due to the more frequent regens resulting in more thermal cycling, causing a failure of the filter material itself. This is more likely to be on cars that are driven on lots of short trips. Longer trips result in a lot more passive regeneration and thus fewer active regeneration cycles. Could one affect the other? Yes, they're part of the same system. The whole thing has been engineered to work together as well as possible, while trying to make the best of the inevitable compromises a complex engineered system requires. It's not as simple as your mate down the pub might have you believe though. To backtrack a little, the engine ECU is monitoring and controlling two core parameters: how much fuel goes in, and how much air goes in. How much air goes in is monitored by the MAF and MAP sensors. How much fuel goes in is monitored by the fuel metering system. But there's a third part to this that never gets discussed but that is nevertheless important: the lambda sensor in the exhaust. That one monitors how much oxygen remains in the exhaust leaving the engine and that data is used to control the quantity of fuel injected into the engine (in tandem with the MAF/MAP readings). Why does this matter? From descriptions I'm seeing on this thread, the EGR emulators are just tweaking the MAF readings, making the engine think EGR is working normally. If we follow this through, the engine is now getting more oxygen than it realises, meaning more oxygen in the exhaust. The lambda sensor sees this and tells the engine to send more fuel. During high EGR demand driving situations this means more fuel, higher fuel consumption, maybe a bit more soot, maybe more NOx. I don't know if the ECU is set up to detect mismatch between fuel injection quantity and MAF, if it did, you could see errors down the line (I'm guessing a bit here TBH). Personally, I don't think EGR defeats like this are a good idea. On modern engines with such closely coupled sub-systems running within tight margins, it's too easy to upset something without realising it until bits start to break. If you're willing to accept that possibility, feel free to go for it. You are ultimately your own warranty though: the manufacturer will not want to know about it if things break. There's always the possibility of it ultimately costing more to put right than if it had been fixed day one.

I know, it's not a lot for a 3D print that had to be designed, developed, printed for 22 hours, using more then 100m of filament, finished, packed, and shipped. After all that, I'd say it should have cost more

@Ronal https://www.carscanner.info/ https://www.carscanner.info/coding-mqb/ (please use it very carefully and always read all instructions first) If you have any questions, PM me. I'll provide you link to another forum (it's in Russian but you can use google translate) with discussion about this program for Kodiaq (not sure that it's allowed to post it here).

There's no harm in doing a section/panel at a time. I plan on doing the wife's car like this. I'll wash as normal and decon say the offside doors and front wing, clay then polish and protect. Only advice I would give is on doing the next panels (a week or two later) be sure to tape the edge of the panel you did previously. More manageable this way.

Mine came with 19" Goodyear Eagle F1 Supersport. I was worried i would get the potenzas. Had them a few times and they are ****E!. The F1's feel as good as Pilot Sport 4s.

How to: Take off both wipers. Spray some wd40/oil penetrator and wiggle them of the shaft. Remove both cowl trims. Start from the middle and pull them off gently. It's only "push fit" type fitting. You can use narrow nose pliers to make job easier. Unscrew 2 torx bolts (t30 I think) Remove metal "wall" Remove plastic trims REmove 6x 13mm suspension bolts. Do that in stages, not in one go. Install strut brace - use same screws. They are long enough. You will have to cut one trim (if you want. You can just leave hole). Other side can be left without plastic. Metal "firewall" may need cutting if you really fussy. Mine is not cut, you just have to persuade it to fit Put everything back together. Most annoying job is to remove wiper arms and cowl trim. Cheers.