Leaderboard

Have you tried in normal mode instead of eco. I know I can get better consumption in normal than in eco mode in my car and it’s a better drive. You will never get the same economy from a petrol car compared to diesel, just drive the car and enjoy it.

Job done.

Found that one out Sunday Evening, the rear washer jet was playing up and on observing the rear wash my wife pointed out that it was leaking out around the number plate light / camera area. So this idiot spent just over an hour removing the boot trim to find no leak inside the trim - to only discover when I asked her to sit in and press the stalk forward, that the Camera has its own washer jet - DOH. I've only owned it 3.5 years and never noticed before, I just though the camera stayed clean as it was mounted nice and high (not low down like the one on our Mini Clubman that is always dirty) - to be fair I don't often use the rear bidet.

The speedo over-reads by about 5% on standard tyres, so fitting oversize can actually make the speedo more accurate. It's easy to check with google maps, as that can be used as a very accurate gps speedo.

That is very poor, consider, if this is the way they are acting even before the sale is completed, what will they be like if, heaven forbid, you have a warranty issue once you take delivery? Personally, i'd ditch this dealer (name and shame) They certainly do not deserve your custom. Do you have other dealer options?

It's the mk3 badge haven't seen mk4 one yet cheers

This is turning into one of those decent home-cooked food vs McDonalds conversations. Both are OK - but I know which I prefer in the long term and there's no point discussing the finer points of whether McD's use too much ketchup or dill pickle. It's subjective - but we all know their nosh comes with well defined limitations and trade-offs. And lots of salt... I work professionally with audio and deliver demanding and complex sound dub mixes for a living, using a custom Genelec monitoring system and I used to write a monthly column in Car HiFi Magazine. Unfortunately, I no longer have time to build my own systems, or I'd just be doing this myself. While a Canton "upgrade" will suffice for many with less educated ears, it won't satisfy those who have invested in decent HiFi systems and have tasted the forbidden fruit of decent sound reproduction. There - I said it. TLDR - if your idea of good sound quality is based on Sonos or Bose home audio, you might be OK with the Canton. If your ears are used to Naim, Linn, Arcam, Shahinian, PMC, Genelec etc, skip the Canton - and buy an aftermarket system. Hopefully I haven't offended too many people Ben.

Missed the actual sunset this evening unfortunately.....

Thanks, so pleased with it, got the tsi 230 FL and the engine is such a peach.

With regards to the DSG, I've found the key to a smooth set off from standstill is to take my foot off the brake, let the car realise that's what I've done (the revs rise to 1000rpm in my 1.4 TSI and clutch starts to engage) and then lightly press the throttle. If you try and press the throttle too sharply or before the clutch has bitten it almost always end up with a jolt forward. I can only liken this to a manual where you would press the throttle harder and suddenly release the clutch. And also setting off from roundabouts etc (while still creeping forward). What you may find is that the gearbox is between gears. It drives in 1st but upon pressing the throttle to set off it uses 2nd gear (and the 2nd clutch) and slips the clutch to smooth out the change. This makes it feels sluggish but it isn't really. Just hold a steady, light but firm throttle and the car will sort it out.

A filters a filter, who cares who makes it. I'm only snobby about oil and air filters (Mahle), UK fuel is so much cleaner than some of the foreign muck these cars have to run on and It's not even worth changing the fuel filter on a UK petrol car at all.

thought I'd share something I learnt recently. tried it, and its worthwhile. this is intended for those with DCC shocks and have lowered springs. I've got Eibach ProKit Springs, which has dropped the car 25mm. this procedure recalibrates the DCC, and is recommended to be done after the car has been lowered. the end result is a more refined "bounce" and a reduction of bottoming-out (in Comfort and Normal modes). while the change is not night & day difference, u can certainly feel the DCC rides better now with the lowered springs. u'll need:- - to make sure to jack your ur up, or lift it, so that all 4 wheels are sagging fully, off the ground - an OBDEleven tool (NOTE: this CANNOT be done with VCDS) Go to Control Module 14 - Adaptive Suspension Enter security code 20103. Go to Adaptations Select “Adapting with deflected wheels” Take note of the values, as they should change later. Don’t change anything, instead back out Enter Basic Settings Select “Adapting with deflected wheels” Slide to Start or Press & hold Green tick to Start. It should run for a second and then say something like basic setting ended. That’s it, you’re done. Double check adaptations to make sure the values have changed and saved.

The repair looks great and fun to carry out but I do agree that it might be time to get a new fan. I will see if there are some in eBay or Amazon. I also checked on a friend's Fabia and he had exactly the same problem. Thanks again

Thank you. It's difficult not to notice you are sort of guru on briskoda😁 I was considering being brave and asking for help with many things. I'm generally clueless with cars and have no DIY skills. Is planning to do few things with my Superb over next few years. I'll pay in money or chocolate or both😂

Honnister pass this morn ,little road through the middle of lake district mountains

Superb is probably more refined than Octavia. The 2.0 engine is mature tech now and should be fine. Its used in masses of VAG products. Personally I'd go for a 2.0 Superb estate as a good replacement for the BMW. I test drove a 220 and a 280 when I bought mine - the 220 was more than enough power, the only small niggle was it seemed prone to wheelspin. That'd probably only be an issue until you got used to driving the car. I ended up eliminating the issue by going for the 280 as its 4x4, but that isn't at all necessary. The caveat is I only do 6k miles a year and I tow a box trailer or have bikes on board for probably 1k miles of that, so I don't care about MPG and do care about oompf :-)

The GreenScore is utter nonsense and has nothing to do with economy as can be seen on mine.

Chillier than expected... Jacket on, keep the legs moving to keep 'em warm SunGod 200 completed...

ahh no way! that's pretty cool, I like the idea comfort entry too. Shame you're so far from me.

The 1.5 has ACT (Active Cyclinder Technology) which will shut down 2 cylinders depending on the driving conditions. Some buyers have reported kangarooing with the manual version but not the DSG version. Both the 1.4 and 1.5 are 150BHP and I think the real world economy to be about the same. Some have had a software fix the for kangarooing and reported a 10% loss in economy. Bear in mind this 1.5 engine is across the VAG range and affected others not just Octavia. Either way the Octavia is big inside given that its based on the golf platform. The rear seat legroom is best in class and the estate has plenty of room. I have the 1.4TSI SEL DSG Estate and loving it. https://www.volkswagen.co.uk/technology/engines/petrol

These cars are utter crap, all of them. I have a courtesy Superb at the moment and it is constantly stalling itself for no reason, including once after I'd already gotten as far as engaging second gear leaving a junction. It refused to let me start the engine while coasting (with perplexed drivers behind) and I was given a message telling me to stop the car before attempting to restart it. Yeah, on a 60mph single-lane country road, thank you very much. Someone is going to be hurt or worse in one of these vehicles, there are too many issues at play while actually in motion.

Oh it is possible, unless you have a rusted screw that will not budge. You will never be able to drill it out without taking the bumper off. My hands are a large size, so it certainly was tight. I used a small socket set and at times once I shone the torch to see where a particular screw was positioned, had to get in there by feel. It took around 30 mins to get them both off and 45 mins to get them back on again, trying not to scratch the new paint. I put masking tape around the painted surface just in case. Good luck mate. Forgot to mention, I also jacked the car up to let it down again onto 2 pieces of 4x4 underneath the back wheels. I just wanted another 4 inch of height to play with.

I’ve just bought a 1.5 TSI to replace a 1.6 TDI taxi and I know I won’t get the same economy but I don’t care. I’m in the car for 10 hours a day and I’m fed up with the noise, working the gearbox and all the other diesel stuff like DPF and smell. Can’t wait to start in the petrol car.

interesting regarding the link, but jsut to show it is there (although does not work if you type reg in now).............wierd

I can’t see anything in there Just put her private plate on it VR51 BEC but didn’t think it would have changed so quick

here it is with the text................it "sort" of makes sense.............. it says "swivel"................I think it means "wiggle" (german language translation) as the 2 key ways shown in image would not allow it to swivel, so I think its "wiggle and pull"

I had this and if you search within the forum you will find my entry for it. Essentially the batteries had reduced in charge on all Kessy keyfobs and the system got confused as to which key was in use so set a flag within the controller which stopped the seats and mirrors moving. The dealer, after a lot of head scratching, worked this out. Take all three key fobs with you, get them to replace the batteries and then the dealer should be able to reset whatever flag was unset. This will bring the seat/mirror module back into use. I did find afterwards that the foot operated boot closing override has disappeared from the menu and may or may not be related. I never used that override so not too bothered. Of course the dealer may find it is something else but that is my experience.

100mm, was best guess, but my wife always says I exaggerate

Unplugging the radiator fan thermoswitch (F18) connector and bridging terminals of the loom connector is a nice way to test the system. There are three wires to that (quite thin as they are just carrying relay coil currents, not fan currents). Brown to brown/blue should bring on the fan(s) at low speed, brown to brown/green (with ignition switched on) should invoke full speed operation. Have you checked the relevant fuses? The below diagram may help you visualise the system:

A lot depends on how much you like driving,with a manual. Some people enjoy working a car,others think its hard work if too many gear changes........ Citigo is short of breath at times,and needs a bit more driver planning, getting early gear changes in ,when faced with gradients. Change in technique may be required, if you expect the engine to pull you out of a labouring situation. Over 50 mpg around town,and just got over 63mpg on a motorway trip. All in the eye of the beholder.....

leyo which is expensive

Resistant to kids?🤔 Sounds like unicorn 😁

Ah, I see, too bad I was expecting some disassembly tips when I saw your reply Only joking of-course! Not a problem.

My MkII Superb 1.4tsi stop/start works very well. You don't really notice it when you stop until you drop the clutch to set off and you hear a brief whir of the starter motor. It did have a hic-up last year when stop/start stopped working however it was in need of a new battery - suspect lockdown and cold weather contributed to this! If yours is stopping and then instantly restarting then something is not right. There is a complicated algorithm controlling stop/start including voltage, temperature, motion etc. I'd get it checked out.

Rules it out? Are you buying an M3 instead? You should test drive a Citigo/Up!/Mii; they are great economical cars!

Yep, there is nowhere in the UK road system where a Citigo won't manage, but if you are looking for a Pike's Peak racer, then that rules it out, along with most other cars!

The principal dealer and sales execs need something to drive home in

been loving my 1.5 estate for the last month and a half. As others have said, super smooth and relaxing to drive, and got a fair bit more poke than my old 1.2L Mk2 Fabia

I appreciate the frustration... on the subject of GAP insurance specifically, that they did this is really quite interesting. It's been illegal since September 2015 for a motor dealer to both introduce GAP insurance to you and conclude the sale of it on the same day. There has to be at least two clear days between them providing you with the "prescribed information" about GAP insurance - this very specific information is supposed to detail all the main features, benefits and exclusions along with an instruction that GAP insurance cover is optional and can be purchased from other providers - and them then concluding the sale of a policy with you. E.g. if they first introduce the topic of GAP insurance to you on a Monday, it would be Thursday at the earliest before they'd be legally permitted to raise the topic of it again with you. Although, you do have the right to waive your option to wait until the Thursday and if you wish can instruct them on the Tuesday or Wednesday that you wish to purchase cover but, this cannot be through encouragement from them. Sadly... the attention that motor dealers have been paying to these rules since 2015, has been lacking somewhat

It should be OK. I live in Wales and have a 10% hill to get to my house, it copes fine but is no ball of fire. It spends a lot of time in 2nd and 3rd up hill and down dale. The brakes are more than adequate for down dale.

Hi, welcome to the forum, I suspect that you may have a problem with your battery SOC - perhaps a sudden drop in voltage when the engine stops, triggering a restart. Any of the many other factors that allow automatic stop/start will normally just prevent the stop from being triggered, Ie. engine keeps running and the symbol is displayed on the top line of the maxidot. Two things that might be causing your restart - slightly turning the steering-wheel, or changing the pressure on the brake-pedal.

It's unlikely a garage will. An electronics repair shop might be able to read/write to the EEOROM but they won't know how to fix the needle configuration You can pick a ch341a with a test clip for less than a tenner. The test clip attaches directly to the EEPROM chip like this: That'll let you read the contents of the chip without any soldering etc. If you send me the contents, I'll tweak it for you and send a new file back. You'd just need to write the data and put the cluster back together with a MPH facia. There are a few cheap used clusters on eBay for which might be suitable donors for the replacement facia. Just check the symbol layout matches the original. Image taken from: https://www.drive2.ru/l/6475842/

I sold my Octavia vRS in 2017 - following DeiselGate. Not just on principle but on the proposed fix which lowered fuel consumption and had complaints against it post fix that there were some "problems". I didn't get the fix and sold the car. After 4 years of BMW ownership - I was looking to come back to Skoda - namely Mk4 Octy iV. Reading this post, tonight, especially the press article on the Software Development (which in some ways is what DieselGate was all about) - I must have been stupid to even consider it! Just for information - the replacement BMW is £43k (GBP) which is now too rich for me! The Mk4 iV was a it pricey but I would have gone for the estate. Not now - decision made. I am currently exploring and have shortlisted the Hyundai Ioniq, Kona and Kia Niro. They're not as good a car on the Octavia - but as the complete package they seem to work and have a lot more standard kit and come in about £8k (GBP) less.

Good manners cost nothing. It's a shame you couldn't afford it, and just moved straight onto the next 'take'. Good luck.

Wheel alignment sorted today from Motorsport and performance other side of leeds, camber was all good and nicely even so no need to touch subframe again which was nice. Toe was well out again, now adjusted and driving lovely and straight again . turns in even better now

This is exactly how it should work! 👍🏼👍🏼 madness that again there are inconsistencies with how this feature is being applied to cars. 🤦🏻‍♂️

I’m not especially computer savvy so please bear with me. I recently had to return my HP W10 laptop for repair under warranty after it started to randomly freeze and restart. The repair agent found the problem was caused by an outdated BIOS. He updated the BIOS and returned the laptop to me, and all is well. I’ve never (knowingly) had to update BIOS during thirty years of computer ownership, so I Googled to see if it were something I should be doing routinely. Different websites hold different opinions on this, from “Yes – it will keep your computer running smoothly” to “No – it could brick your computer”. May I please ask our Brisky experts’ opinions on this? Should I, or should I not routinely update the BIOS? Many thanks.

Well ... I double checked the situation today. Yup, sure enough, the ski portal access-cum-armrest takes up the space where the headrest anchor bars would normally go. So, it means my Octavia hatch is a four seater, with an occasional use of the rear centre seat. Other posters have commented similarly. Clive