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So update from me. With no end in sight and the Skoda UK not being able to provide a suitable hire car for me, I have taken the 2.0 TDI VRS that was offered to me by the dealer with a. full buy back of my old car and a full refund of the towbar that was fitted. A conversation with Skoda UK told me that they believe that any cars built before week 25 of 2020 were those that showing the majority of issues. So July 2020 onwards will not have the same issues (take that with a big pinch of salt). They seem too have realised that they ain't going to fix the issue any time soon, and are "encouraging" dealers to buy back. I'm going to keep a very careful eye on the software and log any issues with evidence so if things continue to happen I can get a quick resolution. I hope this won't be the case. The dealer has been great, I do feel sorry for them and I really hope that they don't try and sell the car onwards before the fix happens. Good luck to those still with the issue and holding out. Remember our rights and don't be fobbed off with poor buy-back deals.

Its here! Every now and again days go just how you want them to, Worked early this morning and halfway through my shift got the call to say the Bike was ready for delivery. I had been home 20 Mins and the Van pulled up outside Just want to say that Jordan Bikes who I have been dealing with now for a number of Years have really gone above and beyond, In addition to the Major Service they have done on the Bike and removing the Alarm they have also fitted a Brand New Chain & Sprockets free of charge as their Technician said there was a couple of tight links and they wanted it right for me so replaced the lot. Superb! As always, The bike was put straight onto the Ramp in the Garage and the deep cleaning commenced. Spent around 5 Hours this Afternoon on the Bike and its not yet finished. Not found anything unexpected on the Bike, It does have the odd age related mark but its 15 Years old so this is no surprise. It is already looking much better after a bit of TLC. So far I have... : Removed the Lower Fairings ready for deep cleaning tomorrow. : Removed the Rear Hugger & Chain Guard, All Degreased, Cleaned and refitted. : Rear Swingarm area all Degreased. : Front Engine Area & Exhaust Cleaned, ACF-50 Applied. : LHS Rear Set removed, Full degreased, New Genuine Footpeg fitted as old item was damaged slightly. : Replaced RHS R&G Frame Bobbin, It was slightly scuffed from the previous owner getting the Bike down the side of his house. Did its job and protected the Fairing. : Fitted some R&G Paddock Stand Bobbins, Found these in my toolbox. : Replaced x 5 of the M6 Fairing Panel Push Clips. Its coming on, Will be doing some more on the bike over the coming days. Some pics of todays efforts...

its been a long couple of days....

Maybe a dying coilpack?, a MOSFET transistor inside failing short-circuit, at a guess. Someone with a 1.4/16V engine had the same a week or two back. 1.4 BBZ engine stopped and won’t restart - Skoda Fabia Mk I - BRISKODA

Our Mk1 Fabia HTP got up to about 175k on the original engine. I recently transplanted a much lower mileage one in after the original started showing signs of imminent death. 12-valve AZQ code one though, so not completely comparable. I've yet to tear down the old one, but I think bottom end wear and tear.

We can now, thank feck

It's worth noting that with 4 wheel drive you also get a more robust DSG transmission with oil bath clutches and a 4-link rear suspension.

Hey Guys, I bought my 2019 superb Sportline Plus 272 4x4 a couple of months ago and have been adding my own touches to it since. I think I’m now at a point where I’m happy ... for the time being. Full list of mods below (a couple done by previous owner but most by me) 20” GMP Italia Angel Alloys Painted brake callipers gloss red Climair wind deflectors Tinted windows Boot edge protector Smoked headlights Smoked tail lights Maxton front splitter (v3) Maxton side skirts Maxton spats Maxton rear valance Maxton spoiler extension De badged rear Black Skoda badges Metal shift paddles Hard wired dash cam Rear facing baby cam and monitor OEM tablet holder in rear headrest Previous owner did a resonator and muffler delete - it’s far too loud for me so will be getting a customs exhaust - question is do I leave original tail pipes or go for quad pipe? More mods in the future methinks - please fee free to follow me on Instagram @sportlineplusuk IMG_0529.MOV IMG_0529.MOV

Hi, hopefully the pictures and links will explain this simple mod. It takes about 10 minutes excluding glue drying time. The springs bought are 16mm od, 8mm id and 50mm long if you want to use washers or 55mm if you dont. They need to compress by about about a third (ie from 55mm down to 35mm). The washers are 16mm od, 8mm id, 2mm thick. My Gas struts could support the boot open but were worn so I replaced them anyway. Here are the links I used: Heavy Load Duty Compression Die Spring, 8-18mm Diameter & Up To 55mm Long JIS https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223584768462?hash=item340eb0d1ce:g:5O0AAOSwLxBdKLk7 2X TAILGATE BOOT GAS STRUTS FOR SKODA OCTAVIA MK2 COMBI 04-13 ESTATE 1Z9827550 https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=2+x+tailgate+boot+gas+struts+for+skoda+octavia+mk2+combi+04+13+estate+1+z+9827550&_blrs=spell_check Metric M8 plastic washers 8mm ID 16mm OD 2mm pack of four https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313&_nkw=Metric+M8+plastic+washers+8mm+ID+16mm+OD+2mm+pack+of+four&_sacat=0 20210512_164832.mp4

oh it was foggy.. thats the same photo i took yesterday.. but no matter, i stretched the route a bit more - 13.7k in bang on 1 hr. and got 3 more climbs onto it. full lap of the woods and then down the firebreak. the fact i came off the bike again on the fire break, tucking and rolling, but also sliding about 15ft on my back made it a little less pleasant for a minute. the slight swelling and light abrasion on my lower back from the tree root i slid over makes it tad less comfortable now. but fk it. i got up, got back on said "£@%@%@"# mud hole!" and carried on. i havnt fallen off an bike since i was 10, and ive fallen off twice in a week as a 37yr old 🤦‍♂️

used may well be the way to go... even if it means replacing a couple of bits, i might get a better deal getting (basically) a really good frame... i have a lot of thinking to do..

Listed recently on gumtree.

Your window motor modules are not something that it can talk to.

I've had it since 2012.I got my money back for the engine replacement from the garage as there was a distinct rattle for a few seconds on start up which is a precursor to the cam chain going .l told the garage twice but they said not to worry then it whent bump.The car had done 100,000 miles at that stage.It took 2 years through the motoring ombudsman before they found in my favour. I got the manifold changed at the same time.lts done 30:000 on the new engine with no problems. It's a dsg with full leather interior and Columbus media system.Everything else has been solid and it still drives really well.If Dsg make sure the Dsg oil has been changed at every 40:000 miles.lt still drives and handles like the day l got it.

I had my Engine replaced following tensioner failure in my 2011 vrs in 2018 .The only other expensive ltem that they are prone to from that era is the air intake manifold flaps coking up showing an error message.This can cost about £900 to be replaced. The replacement one is a different revision and less prone to faliure.If you YouTube it there are plenty of videos .You should check it has the revised one.I got mine done when the engine was placed as they had to remove it to change the engine. Watch the video on the below link to see the differences and you can check if the car you are looking at has the revised one.

@snealMine was brand new so I was able to add the 5y manufacturer warranty. From the paperwork that was in the car, I believe it came off the line on June 30th so would have been in stock in the UK for few months as I bought it on Feb 27th from Citygate Slough.

Nice to hear, looks like not many here , I'm in Darwen. I see you organising northwest meet at Krispy Kreme Manchester, I'm hoping to go

Thank you, that’s who I’ve ended up going with because they were really quick and helpful on the messaging service. I’ll update once I receive it.

Thanks for the suggestions, I’m struggling to find a screwdriver thin enough that I can leverage behind the pin to release the grommet. Will keep trying 👍 thanks I‘ll try this later, currently I’ve been using fairy liquid lol

A couple from yesterday around Ennerdale water.

Could be this function is only intended for cars without rear wiper but Skoda forgot to remove it in the early software version.

Honest truth, I was stupid (and it cost me) !

I'm a breakdown guy as my day job, We just use a jack sized piece of 12mm hardboard. Its what they line our floors with when the vans are fitted out. The conversion company chuck a piece in the van and we cut them down to size if too big, but generally they get it spot on now. Does the job fine, Probably could go thinner, 6 or 9mm board, ours is only 12mm as that's what's already being used.

I have a 1st Edition as these are the only ones on the road at this point. VW ID.4 1st Ed Pro. 82kWh battery, 77kWh usable. 150kW motor RWD. 125kW charging. 20" wheels. I'm happy I'll get 250 miles loaded in good conditions, but have not done any long trips yet. Longest trip so far of 130 showed 3.8 m/kWh but that run always gives good economy due to many 50 limits. Longterm average over 2000 miles is 3.2 m/kWh

Dundee, to be fair most salesmen no nowt about the technical side of cars.

Must be a salesman talking out of his arse then, whe I asked about MY21 1.5 tsi with ACT he said wet.

On the surface I'd agree with @MicMac- the prices do seem extraordinarily high. Is it possiblle your stealer is trying to put you off the repairs (perhaps to make you buy another car from them) by quoting silly prices? This LINK will show you the parts diagram and parts catalogue entries for a 2010 set of roof rails. These are for European models but even of yours came from China I don't see things like roof rails being any different. A bit of ferreting about on the same site will show you the details for a China-sourced car (if there is one). Fitting a roof rail is not difficult - much easier on a mk2 than a mk1! In essence, remove 3 access covers (suggest you use a plastic trim removal tool - dead cheap on ebay or Amazon) then undo the three M6 allen bolts and lift off the rail. Clean, lightly grease the bolts and fit the new rail. I can't find you a torque setting but nip up firmly but don't wring its neck As regards sourcing the part/s I tried a quick Google{tm} and came up with many offers here in the UK or Europe from UKP70 to UJKP130 so I'm quite sure there must be some around in Oz. Shipping may complicate matters as some carriers don't like long packages. As regards the other jobs, if the chrome failure is on the gear knob they really are taking the pi$$ as the knob is literally a screw on/off part! Straight replacement of the coolant bottle is easy but messy in that you have to depressurise the cooling system first, uncouple and drain off the old reservoir, fir the new one, top up the coolant and check for leaks in operation. Remember also to wash down the work area to remove splashed coolant. The washer bottle is a bit more awkward but relatively straightforward; jack up NSF wheel, remove wheel, remove forward wheel arch liner, decouple and remove washer bottle, check and replace hoses if necessary, reassemble. None of these are beyond a reasonable home mechanic.

They are with AWD and 2.0 TSI's or TDI's. They were Wet when 6 speed when more than 250Nm Torque or those over 150 PS in a Skoda (192ps VW) With FWD and 1.0 or 1.5 TSI's they are still DQ200's, So 7 speed Twin Dry Clutch. and with 1.0 / 1.5 TSI Mild Hybrids they will be e-DQ200's.

My factory fits were fine for 6 months in snow, rain or drizzle. But then started juddering as they swept across the windscreen a few weeks ago. I couldn't put it down to any particular part of the blade, and they didn't seem to have moved at all. It was after I'd washed the car a few days previously, but I'd done that before without any problem. And fitting the Bosch wipers (from Amazon) cured the problem completely. Chris

Fuse 52 had blown. Engine now starts and is running smoothly, so just need to see if that fixes the misfire. Thanks Wino!

I have to update that article, but the principles still apply. If you ask @pab567 he can advise on firmware files.

@Gyp @SurreyJohn @freelunch I'm not justifying the main stealer's business practices, but I honestly am happy to justify a Hunter operative's time when a car needs adjustment.

I went to Watlings in Catford. They mounted four tyres that I brought in and did a balance & alignment for £116, so yeah, £144 is high. I have also had a four-wheel alignment done by KwikFit. When I queried a figure on the printout, they did a second alignment in a different shop for free. That job cost £84.95 three years ago. I did it before I drove to Germany and the car ran smooth and true on the Autobahn at high speed, so why pay more?

@JR RS another excellent mod mate and as always you're full of information and knowledge. Thank you mate.

Hey Ben, That wasn't my system under discussion, I'm using the MOST to optical interface: https://www.audison.eu/products/bit-dmi/ This is the system in question: https://www.facebook.com/170124986379280/posts/4073941862664220/ I'm getting a straight line clean output to the DSP.

Bad valve seals can also cause high oil consumption. Keep us updated with what you're finding.

its not too bad, given ur experience in pulling apart the Superb trim. should b easy for u. essentially the TPMS module is inside the rear bumper. canbus connections r sourced from the BSM inside the rear bumper. power is sourced from the fuse box up front. if the TPMS module doesn't come parameterized, i.e. its brand new, then u'll need ODIS or VCP to upload a parameter file. then some vcds code changes n ur done. obviously the tyre pressure sensors need to b installed inside each tyre, replacing the existing tyre valve stem. full write-up of my retrofit here.

If the head gasket is leaking the cylinder gasses (including oil) get pushed out past the gasket and usually into the water jacket - hence the check for emulsion in the radiator fluid. On the inlet stroke the vacuum caused by the piston falling in the cylinder may then suck in water via a failed head gasket which can lead to water in the oil and poor running. This situation is likely to increase oil consumption but I can't see it increasing to the levels you are describing.

The Octavia MK1 VRS uses 312mm diameter front brake discs, so you don't need 17" wheels to clear the front brake calipers. 205/55R16 on 6.5Jx16 ET42 rims would fit. According to wheel-size.com 225/45R17 will fit 7Jx17 ET38 rims. Skoda Octavia 1996 1.8T Tire Rim 205/55R16 6.5Jx16 ET42 2.3 205/50R17 7Jx17 ET38 2.3 225/45R17 7Jx17 ET38 2.5 https://www.wheel-size.com/size/skoda/octavia/1996/#trim-18t-eudm-148

If it's eating coolant you should check for a head gasket leak, Usual signs include an emulsion collected around the oil filler cap, evidence of oil in the radiator water reservoir and/or water droplets on the dipstick, If it progresses you will gradually lose performance on the affected cylinder. Check normally via a compression test,

Checked any fuses? Ignition coil feed is #52 When you say you 'swapped out' coil 2, do you mean moved it to another cylinder, or fitted a new one there?

At the very least, once you have one of their cars, it will concentrate their minds to sorting yours ASAP.

It has not been given a definite no by Skoda for the future. They could have a Plug in or self charge hybrid sometime. They have a new Electric Rally Cross car and will have a EV Rally car. Skoda have big upped the success of Mk3 body shap R5's for log enough without offer the general public a proper sporty Fabia. When the introduce the Mk4 Estate (Combi) would be the right time to introduce a Hot Fabia. Take an Estate Car rallying and offer the public a AWD Hybrid Estate. (Room to get stuff in and passengers...)

Hi all Thank you for your help! I changed again the oil of the gear box with the original one. Things are much better! And now the gears are passing fine

That’s a good amount of great info, thanks. Your assumption was right, I refered to replace only the rear Arb with a stiffer one and keeping the oem Arb at the front end. Plus I won’t be using the stiffest one, a 24mm whiteline may be good, starting with the softest adjustment (out of three). After reading your words, seems a good starting point to notice handling improvements and side effects as over steering..

I’ve reviewed my behaviour this afternoon and yep, as you both suspected, it’s completely OE! I have been pulling the gear lever back too hard and the DSG has correctly been going into S. What a twit I am! So thanks for your help and patience.

Not really - the UI is smoother. It fixes a whole load of Bluetooth glitches and Android/Carplay gotchas....and generally makes the system work properly.

2019 95bhp TSI Black Monte Carlo 17s Family bus ****e stereo

I’m new here and this is my new (to me) Fabia III Monte Carlo 1.0 TSI 110. My previous car was a 2006 Ford Focus Estate 1.8 TDCI that I’d had for 11 years, so quite a change. Really enjoying the little Skoda and it’s the estate model so I can still get my bike in the boot easily. The only fly in the ointment is audio through Apple CarPlay stutters quite badly. If anyone’s experienced this and found a resolution then I’d be interested to learn how this was achieved. Thanks, Matt

Wife is down sizing from her Octavia which is nearly 15 years old and we are becoming a two Mk111 Fabia house as I have a 16 plate 1.4tdi Pre reg Colour edition, 8 miles registered on the 30th of September. Price was £13105 with little in the way of negotiation room. Paid the deposit yesterday and will collect next week. If any one fancies a similar car they have two others at £12900 without a spare wheel and tool kit at Rainworth Skoda.