Leaderboard

@varaderoguy your trees and a huge thank you from gaia --> https://ecologi.com/briskoda?treeId=60ca35c335d7f7926b71f79b

I managed to surf through the 1886 (till now) pages of the Fabia I forum! It took me some of a year to read... OK, not every post but the eye catching and every post familiar with my fabia (quite a lot!). A huge amount of knowledge is found here! But over all these pages, all these years, all that people who participated, I have a question... What the bloody thing with the "on" indication on the cub holder is for???

Thank you to all who have contributed to the trees. A bit of a milestone, together we've planted over 5k trees around the planet in less than a year. BRISKODA as a part of the legal entity has been chugging away with 226 tonnes of co2 offset too.. way more than we use, but that's no bad thing. That is, 174 long haul flights or 562,641 miles in a car. Although not sure if thats a citigo or a 280 superb. Probably something in between, heck all I know is it's more miles than I did last year.

No not forgotten about our trees... april is year end, and I've still not done it all :( Actually been driving the car a bit... mostly to hospital and back to see poorly people. Ok so belatedly Aprils trees: https://ecologi.com/briskoda?treeId=60adea9436d53422c1c0dfcd

"The local garage has been either too lazy or didn't want me to know what was done on the service". On the basis of that if it was my car even with only 30,000 miles on the clock I'd be looking for a better garage and then paying for "the works" and know I'd done all I reasonably could to prevent future problems. If money's a bit tight I might skip or delay the various filter changes and air con service but if I had any doubt whether it had been done before or not I'd definitely have the brake fluid changed - it could be fine for another year but why risk it?

This, of course, is the ideal solution... but I reckon every driver does, or has, exceeded the speed limit. Sometimes without realising it's crept up. A warning could be useful if only as a reminder to pay closer attention...

Update part 2 Yeti towed for 60 miles to Barnstable Skoda, AA guy had to fit their free wheeling hubs and wheel kits to rear to prevent damage to the Haldex system. Had great service from Marshalls Skoda and was back on the road a couple of days later. As thought, it was the n/s rear wheel motion sensor playing up and they fitted new and did a few software updates. The strange thing is no one seems to have had the complete lack of power I experienced accompanying the sensor failure, I suppose it was 'limp home' mode? Anyway all in all an unforgettable experience😣

Hi all, today I just sold my old BMW 320d and I’m looking for a replacement. As not many cars offer such good value for money, I would be tempted to get a Superb. As alternatives I’ve considered a C class estate, an A4 Avant and potentially a Volvo, but it’s hard to find the right spec at the right price. So back to the Superb, I’ve seen a few nice cars for sale, but I’m not decided on the engine yet. I clearly want a petrol as I’m only doing about 8-10k miles a year. The 272 or the new 280 is out of the budget, so I’d consider the old 280, the 220 or the newer 190. I’ve read the entire thread on the 280 vs 220 and the general impression I got was that the 220 tends to wheelspin a lot, but in general city driving they’re the similar. Does the 190 have the same issue and does it feel underpowered compare to the 220? I haven’t seen any complaints from Audi or VW owners with the same engine, so wondering if the applies to the Superb. Which is the engine to go with out of these?

when putting back to upper B pillar panel you can check if the belt moves before you fully click it in. yes I think you'll need to repeat the measurement so that we can compare them. Digifish's car might have different tires than yours, perhaps different carpet or maybe his noise sensitivities are different. I am out of butyl but I still have more than half of my mass loaded vinyl. I will lay it out in the boot to see what it gives. Once I get butyl I was thinking of doing rear arches plus laying mass loaded vinyl on the plastic covers. I will report how it goes in due time. BTW my foam carpet / laminate panel underlay is much thicker than the picture from the internet I attached. I'll send a proper picture this week. this thing is super cheap for what it does.

this would correspond to what I am getting at 120 km/h on poor porous asphalt but after extensive soundproofing. I’d need to check at 140 km/h what I get at. I guess most Of your noise is also the wind and engine plus some tire noise. just to confirm you had the AC / ventilation and radio off? BTW I place my phone in a holder that is clipped to the front ventilation so what I register at my head level would be a bit different than what my phone pics. I am guessing that the doors would be your next thing to address. Put butyl there and stuff the bottom of the interior with something like rolled laminate closed cell underlay. Just make sure that you figure out how much space needs to be left so that the windows can be opened.

The 7sp dry clutch DSG hasn't proven as reliable as the 6sp wet clutch that came out before it. There was also the recall in many markets and in the uk some sort of tsb or product action to change the oil used due to issues it could cause with the internal electrics. Given yours has a new mechatronic 2 years that should obviously dealt with now. Who did the previous work? How much warranty was there. I think you need to go back to them. The behaviour indicates a problem.

Arnold shark

What type of noise? When was the last time they were removed, cleaned, regreased and refitted? Thanks, AG Falco

Thats the Oil filter. You can remove the pollen filter, give it a vacuum if not too dirty, and clean / wash around the area, or just replace the filter as it is a 2 year consumable.

Is that a salesperson at the dealership telling you that? Ask the Dealer Principal in person if that is true that the car must be on a Fixed Service Regime, every 9,400 miles / 372 days, which ever comes first. ? Ask why it can not be on Variable / Flexible servicing? EDIT, this is what VW are showing for the Golf Hybrid. Oil changes fixed and at 9,000 miles. http://volkswagen.co.uk/owners-and-drivers/servicing/service-plans/service-schedules/electric

Hey I know I told you that the belt adjuster and the plastic panel adjusters must be at their highest level when putting things back together as this is what the manual said. But when I was putting one back 2 days ago it didnt work and I had to align them visually. Its a simple thing Ill send you a pic sometimes this week to show the bits that need to be aalignsd. In any case dont worry, it will take you 10min each

Hi, relatively new to this forum and I'm no car expert but I do have high standards when choosing a used vehicle. For me it's a combination of all of the above, the dealer must be decent, drives well, condition inside and out of very good quality (if not pristine) and the right service history in place. Never accept compromises and be prepared to walk away if you're not completely happy with something. I've recently picked up an ex-motability Octavia VRS and I hope it serves me well in line with my original judgement (fingers crossed anyway!). Best of luck with everything.

It's the ejector seat.

Aircon drips are more common when it has been working hard, and I'd expect to see that under the bonnet rather than the boot?

Hi, Short update from me; My rejection has gone through, just waiting on the dealer to finalise things. VWFS have actually been very pro-active and pushed this for me, so in all of this, they're the good guys. Phil

Somehow I don't believe that you do know the speed limit at all times, since you didn't know that a speed limit can change without the new limit being signposted. (Hint, the existence or otherwise of a 30mph limit is dependent on the existence or otherwise of lamp posts, and on their separation where they exist).

Or even London!

Do you really mean PS4S or simply PS4 ? Because there seems to be a significant difference: I've replaced the 4 original P7 by PS4 (also in 235/40/19 size). I'm fully satisfied with them. Good dry and wet grip (even in curves). Stiff sidewalls, which highly improve steering sharpness and feedback information in the steering wheel. Noise is somehow the same.

You might want to look at this thread: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/445299-installing-speed-cameras-on-the-amundsen-mib2-free-database-and-quite-simple-to-do/ The latest version is here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/445299-installing-speed-cameras-on-the-amundsen-mib2-free-database-and-quite-simple-to-do/?do=findComment&comment=5546902 That being said, I think the warning sound is pretty quiet so I'm not sure how useful it is... I assume you probably have an Amundsen headunit so you won't be able to add these to the normal nav SD card. You'll need to use a second SD card in the other slot

Absolutely. I had a voicemail from Skoda UK yesterday afternoon - still on track for a s/w release next week.

Hi Andyspan, good to hear it's sorted and I feel a warm happy glow for your Yeti

Rattles in doors on both sides of mine were from grill trim just above the door panel. I padded them very lightly. Just enough to stop them rubbing off the door panel. One of my other buzzing noises was coming from the clocks, where it meets the dashboard. Again, padded and refitted. To be honest, this car just seems to like making new noises, like it thinks I’m bored possibly.

Welcome Blue, Yes you will find a fair amount of us Aussies and Kiwis in this group. Enjoy your new car and enjoy the forum. Ask questions and don't be afraid to read other posts regarding different models. I've got a MY21 Karoq Sportline but often look around the Kodiaq and Supurb threads. Could be worse though, you could be in Victoria lol

There are a lot more options in 245/40/20 even over here in NZ. Apparently makes little difference overall and on all the tyre calculators they say it is acceptable. I was going to do this on my VRS to save money too, but they had a special on Scorpions at Christmas so I bought some even though I don't need them yet.

I think in this situation the 1st thing I would swap front to back as suggested. If it goes away then I would then get the wheels on a roadforce balancing machine. If one of your wheels has been distorted slightly by a pothole hit then with all likely hood it will still balance normally on a standard balancing machine. I bought a superb on 19" wheels and three of the rims were slightly out of true, the main dealer new nothing of the procedure in their own workshop manual to measure the max allowed runouts and I don't think they had the kit either.... This doesnt mean that the "wobble" in the wheel wont introduce a vibration when it is spun against the road. The road force machine spins the wheel against a roller under pressure to see what forces the wheel imparts rather than just spinning it in air. It can also scan the wheel with a laser and measure the runout...I believe off the top of my head the skoda specs only allow 0.5/0.8mm of runout Axial/radial. It may be a case that a small distortion can be sorted by rotating the tyre which will also be slightly imperfect to balance out the generated roadforce. This is actually how the tyres are balanced on brand new cars to contribute to that new car feel. https://danthetireman.com/blog/article/what-is-road-force-balance https://www.balancemycar.co.uk/wheel-balancing-all-you-need-to-know/

This has been mentioned before on here. But it was rear interior lights rather than front. if I recall correctly, the whole light cluster was replaced under warranty and that seemed to resolve the issue. 👍🏼

There's also a wire hook which is used to take off the cover on the rear lights to get to the torx screws securing the lights. It's mentioned in this post.

....pleased your all sorted. When mine went I did experience a couple of "wobbly" moments (jerky / low power),when pulling off for the first time after start up. I put this down to the system "sorting itself out"?.......always settled down after a few seconds though and never gave any problems while driving other than the warning lights...?

Thanks for the tip - got myself a 2.4m 5 ply sheet from B&Q and got them to cut it into 2 x 1m x 1m sheets, then cut the excess using my jigsaw against a tracing of the boot liner. Works a treat - went to the tip with 20 buckets of hardcore and the boot held up!

Full detail with lots of products new to me, first time I've ever used a machine polisher of any kind: Pre-wash with Koch Chemie Greenstar at 1:15 dilution applied with garden sprayer, then pressure washed Fairy liquid (!) wash with an Incredimitt, then pressure washed again Clay mitt with Mer's Clay lube Katsu 850w 6" DA polisher with Scholl S20 Black One Step using Chemical Guys hex logic green pads of 3.5" and 6.0". Did about 4 passes per section. Some very old Autoglym SRP glaze applied by DA using Chemical Guys hex logic black pads - surprisingly a lot less dusty than hand application Collinite 845 hybrid wax applied by hand with a German tri-foam applicator Roof has been done previously with Johnson's blue baby bath, an upholstery brush and Fabil+UV. Black plastic trim and rubbers previously done with CarPro PERL. Wheels I could not be arsed with today! With hindsight I should've gone a bit more aggressive with the pad or polish since I didn't get all the swirls out but it is much better than it was. I am now considering some Koch H8.02 and orange hex pads for the really messed up areas. It's 6 year old soft Mazda paint and been subjected to a few dealer washes so it was very swirly. Apologies for the lack of Skoda!

Almost certainly - but then those cars from the early 80s would also probably fold you in half if you ended up in any kind of serious collision.

I ended up with the 190. This ultimately was governed by availability. 280s are quite rare, and not cheap, 220s were easier to find, but a 190 came up with the spec I wanted (towbar) and that was that. I took the view that I use it as a cruising machine, so the 30 loss wasn't so bad, and it's true to say that it's got more than enough get up and go on the motorway. Wheelspin wise it isn't great, but as others have said, the Pirelli P7s are far from the best and I'm sure some ps4s will sort it. I also had a look at V90s, but was surprised that a bigger car has a smaller boot. Lovely inside and out though. I think the V90 engine made me more comfortable with the 190 as the T4 is the same and T5s fell into the luxury tax band.

Went through the exact same thing not long ago, can't comment on the engines as I was always going to go diesel but looked at all the other cars you mentioned before deciding on the Superb. As you say there's not much out there that offers the same VFM as it, I ended up going for it mainly because of the size, and liked the idea of a car that was such a standout colour (Dragon Green, in the sun its just something else). Mine came with some awful budget tyres on it and have changed these to PS4s and have zero issues with wheelspin, in fact I am often quite pleasantly surprised how well it handles for something so big thats tailored for comfort.

The 220 and 190 are not underpowered for everyday driving, Of course if you want to drive like it’s a sports car then not quite as good, but the extra power of 280 is all near top of Rev band so only ever likely to use it for short bursts @AndreasZ If your old car was a BMW 320d then I assume you didn’t pick the engine for using like a sports car, (you would have have 330, 335 etc) so probably won’t miss the extra power if you buy 190 or 220 As for wheel spin, a lot depends on the tyres, the factory fit summer tyres really do not like cold rain (or sleet, frost, snow) so putting premium all season tyres will help.

@Mech0z full sound deadening packing definitely works, now my Superb 2016 is quieter than Audi A6 2021, but little bit louder than BMW 530d xDrive

https://mibsolution.eu/#/1/9/pACC Has software resources to help you with pACC Let me know if you want access Cool.. I'm sure I notice you on the VAG/MIB telegram group too 🙂 they're a good bunch

@Hyphons @e-Roottoot Thank you both so much for your quick inputs!! Yes, I found some grill options on CPE and in some other places, one of them should do the trick. I'm more concerned about the floor part, I'd like to avoid DIY-ing if possible. I'll look into the VW parts option, if that fails, I guess I'll just have to roll up my sleeves and dig into it myself. Thank you once again!!!

Welcome to Club https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/426372-rear-passenger-air-vent-part-number/?do=findComment&comment=5332587

Fabia mk3 Runout edition 2021 Picked it up on: 4th June 2021 1.0L TSI 81KW 7-speed DSG Runout edition included: Sports Suspension Black Exterior Elements incl. Front Grille, Rear Spoiler, Door Mirrors, Roof, 16” VIGO Alloy Wheels all in Black 3-Spoke Multifunctional Sports Steering Wheel

I remember that episode.. it still flashed, but on the second photo the car was no longer there

I'm forever confusing the two...

There is a software update/fix for Superb iVs suffering from a variety of charging issues. The charging issues are: P33DF00: Rated current request too low P33E100: Charge socket A electrical error P31D500: Charging socket A recognition connector lock electrical error P33E800: Charge socket A, charge connector lock mechanical malfunction P33E000: Target/actual current deviation too large Mine had P33E000 from new. I took it back in within a couple of weeks of getting it because of the poor battery performance. They told me there was nothing wrong, so I downloaded the DTCs myself and found this one occurring over a hundred times per charging cycle. They submitted it to Skoda for a fix. They never told me that a fix had been issued - which is annoying. I found out by coincidence when chatting with a service manager at a different branch. He looked it up while we were talking and found it. It is not a standard update that will be applied to your car, it is only done as a fix for identified issues. If they don't download the DTCs, they won't find the issues or fixes. There is no indication of these issues in the dash/infotainment system. After the conversation with the service manager, he emailed me the list of faults the update addresses to double check it was applicable for my car and I downloaded the DTCs again and found that several of the listed fault codes had appeared multiple times since I last downloaded the DTCs. My car is going in for the update next week. I don't know what the fix does. For all I know, it could just suppress the error codes. The service manager did seem to think it would improve battery performance though, so I'm guessing that there is some info about the update that suggests it might. On what I though was a totally separate issue I had to contact Skoda customer services because my car lost all connectivity (the dealer told me outright they could not fix it), including the spanner button on the overhead panel. The error message it gave me was that the license had expired. It seems that Skoda then forced an update to restore connectivity. Since then it has been downloading software updates like crazy. Either Skoda have just released lots of updates in a short period, or these are overdue. Suddenly, my electric range jumped up to 30 and with a bit more driving has crept up to 36. There has been no change in driving style or distances. I was getting mid 20s previously. I considered myself lucky if it got up to 28. I bought the car a year ago so I have had it through all seasons and never had it perform as well as it is now. Battery performance did plummet on the coldest days though. There are lots of good tips out there to combat this such as setting the charging cycle to finish just before you want to drive so that the battery is pre warmed. The only other change of note is that my Skoda Connect subscriptions have expired. I would be surprised if those services were power hungry enough to affect the range of the car. They hardly ever worked anyway though, so I won't be renewing them.

11 - BRAKE are not a "road safety charity" but an anti-motorist quango spending your money on nonsense like this - TRUE, in spades.

Went silica-bagless yesterday. Original tank was with G in the end and bag was inside walls (=impossible to take it out from fill hole). After 4 years and 100k km bag looks in good condition.

I'm not condoning the removal of the silicate bag on your Skodas but the first thing I did when I got my Leon was remove it. That's speaking as someone who deals with the consequences of them failing on a fairly regular basis.