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2 X usb-c in the centre console. Why can't you use them?

I did quite well today then by not falling off. I was riding a pushbike and not an e-bike which i usually do this route in an average 13 mph. Today was no traffic and on and off pavements and no stopping at junctions, not much climbing or a headwind.

Fuel filter needing changed? ... had that on other diesels, where the servicing agent claimed the filter had been changed (and paid for,) but infact when looking at the filter it was still grubby, choked with gunge and full of water ...... New filter ... problem solved. Worth a check.

I agree, but if you've ever used Traffic Jam Assist in an DSG model you'll know that the whole point of the system is really to relieve the driver from the constant brake-accelerate-brake cycle in stop-go traffic, so if TJA doesn't achieve this in a manual transmission, it can hardly be claimed to be TJA at all.

There is option for wireless charger, at least for RS ocatvia and there are multiple USBs. Android auto/ apple carplay is all infortainment thjat is ever needed in car.

It has usb ports and why wouldn't you want android auto?

Do you have to do that in a loud voice? What if it knows you are lying?

Instavolt charge 40p/KWh now that the VAt is charged at 20%. Everybody should write to their MP and complain about this. This policy is at odds with trying get more electric vehicles on the road.

I'm still enjoying my new VRS despite all the annoyances related to the Infotainment system, which in opinion (and that of many others it seems) is badly designed, slow and unreliable. I thought I'd perhaps share my latest problem and the solution I found - in case it helps anyone else. We were out yesterday and it was all working fine, until I stopped for petrol just before we got back home. When I re-started the engine after that, I saw several unusual things: A big message in the left hand dial saying "Error: Emergency call. Please visit workshop.", which disappeared after a few seconds. A small warning sign showing the letters SOS and a phone symbol. Interestingly, when I looked this up in the PDF handbook, it didn't seem to be listed, so I could only guess what it meant A small orange warning triangle at the top of the display in front of me The Infotainment screen displaying the message "Loading settings..." for ever. After I got home I attempted to investigate these symptoms which were all consistently the same. The "Loading settings" message remained indefinitely. I also noticed, when I looked at the Skoda Connect app that it wasn't receiving data from the car so the mileage etc. was showing for an earlier trip and the car was showing as unlocked, even though I knew it was locked. I tried a soft-reset of the Infotainment but it came back exactly the same after restarting. There seem to be many reports of similar - though not identical - problems on both Skoda and VW related sites and in some cases the solutions have been drastic, involving replacing hardware. However, I did read one report that suggested that pressing the emergency call button could reset it. So, I tried this. I pressed the button and nothing happened. But I then tried resetting the Infotainment system again and this time - as soon as it had restarted - a loud voice announce that an emergency call was in progress and I could cancel it by pressing the button again, which I did. Then - and only then - the whole system seemed to sort itself out and it's all working normally again now. And the car is communicating with the Skoda connect app too. So, I thought I'd describe this in case it helps anyone else. But of course the whole experience has further dented my positive feelings for a car that I otherwise really like a lot.

Thanks. Just noticed that Tesco have been busy installing chargers, including my local store. Nice, even if only 7kW.

@john999boy No, you are thinking of DC rapid charging. There are no conflicting specs. AC single phase (what you have at home) maxes out at 7.4kW. This is the limit of the cable (32 amp current). On 3 phase AC the limit is 22kW. Still 32 amp current but 3 phases so 3x7.4. To make use of AC to charge a battery it must be converted to DC. This is done by the car's on board charger. The max output of the on board charger is 11kW. Therefore the max AC charge rates for Enyaq are 7.4kW single phase AND 11kW 3-phase.

The main dealer has allegedly done that!

A suggestion for something that's worked for me before: File/grind/flatten the top of the triple square socket down, so there's nothing proud of the twelve 'teeth'. That will get you a fraction more into the bolt head, which may not yet be damaged. That fraction might be enough. When you put the socket and wrench into the bolt head, use a crowbar or large screwdriver between the back of the wrench and back of the plate where your wheel bolt thread's are, so you are putting pressure on, forcing it into the bolt head, giving it less chance to round out. As you apply pressure to undo it, tap the wrench (or even the flange itself) rapidly with a hammer, so what you're doing is a crude version of an impact driver. You've only got to get it to free up, and once it's moved you might have a fighting chance. Worth a shot. Gaz NB: and before anyone points it out, yes, I know the bottom of the bolt head is shaped to accommodate what is proud on the triple square socket. It still gave me enough purchase to free off a bolt i'd similarly knackered. G

Hopefully you can see the red line I've crudely drawn and makes things clearer.

@AJ89It's not mentioned in the brochure at all is it. But it's still listed on the SEL specification here: ŠKODA KAMIQ SE L | Our All-New Compact SUV | ŠKODA UK (skoda.co.uk)

If you look at the latest Brochure on the Skoda website it's been removed from SE-L too. Possible it is down to profit but I suspect it's more likely to a lack of Semi-conductors due to supply issues during Covid. Many manufacturers have removed spec, my friend wants the new Golf 8 but the virtual dash is no longer standard on the R Line model. You can't even spec an auto-dimming mirror, either there is a supply issue or an issue with the mirror itself. I have noticed that the SE now gets lights in the vanity mirrors originally there were no lights, both front seats now get lumbar supports.

How can I tell, if the fault code is still there?

"need to change it"...??? Why?... If you love it keep it.

Yup, you might need to slide a purple plastic lock mechanism out the way before inserting the crimp. It should be a permanent live. If you used a switched live you'll get fault codes complaining of a lack of comms. The owners manual for a 2016 Superb page 212 suggests fuse 18, which happens to match what I used on my Octavia: https://ws.skoda-auto.com/OwnersManualService/Data/en/Superb_3V/05-2016/Manual/Superb/B8_Superb_OwnersManual.pdf I think the crimp might be too big for that slot so you may need to use an alternative slot.

It's the one in position 2 in the engine bay box.

My understanding is that R1234yf isn't as good a refrigerant as R134a and is more prone to leaks and hence more is needed and more fuel is used to drive the system as well.??

Cavernous. Always more space to add little things

Tyres on the drive (Halfords mobile service) currently do an R134a regas for £50, Kwikfit and F1 autocentres are just under £60 with occasional vouchers appearing reducing it to £50. Often, out of season, i.e. Winter time it will be £40 or even less. An F1 autocentre manager confided a couple of years ago that due to US patents expiring, R134a gas now costs peanuts and they could still make a profit at half the price. R1234yf gas as mandated in cars after 2015 is much more expensive (thanks to EU and US patent king Honeywell), the cheapest I've seen is £114 iirc, kwikfit is £130 Iso-Butane is called R600a gas in fridge land. Many modern fridges use this, is up to 50% more efficient and more ECO friendly than R134a but obviously highly flammable and not approved in automotive applications and potentially dangerous if it leaks. R600a will mix with R134a according to this paper and is more efficient than R134a on its own.

Is the new sensor working?

I have a 2019 model so the Speed POIs can be installed, however, there are so many of ‘em around my area the map can become a little crowded so I’ve deleted ‘em……….and to be fair, I’m not so much worried by the fixed cameras, it’s the mobile units that pose the greatest threat and they (more often than not) don’t feature in the POI lists. For me these days it’s WAZE all the way, even locally as not only are the fixed cameras marked the mobile units are updated in real time. A big shout out to all Wazers on Briskoda, thanks. 😎

Fortunately for you it seems it still works when you tick boxes. What you describe, correspond to the standard behavior when towing (blind spot and rear traffic are deactivated). Therefore I would suggest to check the electric plug of your trailer (if you have one).

+ glossy black 'eye lid' on front fog lights

I was not using the moulded in positions on the inside of the bumper, relying on looking at photos on Autotrader for approximate position and putting tape on the outside to mark positions which also gives a clean cut, and I realised that I had sufficient access for feeding wiring, and there was no chance of any issues damaging paintwork with it off the car. The other issue that I saw - correctly or not - was there was less chance of damaging paintwork cutting it as opposed to having the cutter coming into the paint from the plastic side. As Chickenlickin has pointed out, he already had factory sensors fitted so needed to remove the bumper take those out. The current appears to be very low - the actual wire in the kit is very thin almost like speaker wire - so in line with the instructions I just connected the 2 wires into the reversing light loom behind the rear light without a relay. If in any doubt you can plug it all together - sensors, control box and buzzer = leaving the sensors hanging to allow you to test by moving a hand towards them, and connect into the loom just to try it before cutting or even removing the bumper.

Probably a long shot ,but have you told the car its got a new battery?

MIB1 Amundsen 5E0035874A + display 5E0919605D. I beleive you can buy second hand set for max. 150 GBP + cost of replacement by yoir Skoda dealer another 150 GBP. But if it's broken then being in your shoes I would think about retrofitting Amundsen MIB2 - with 6.5" screen you can have such set installed for approx. 350 GBP.

Can't get mine to clear, even after replacing the sensor

Doesn’t the manual cover glove box removal? I’m pretty sure the Octavia 3 one does. (It’s a combination of brute force and jer-jiggling!) Re choice of fuse, IMO it’s more important to choose a fuse that is live when you want it to be. Search ‘piggy back fuse’ on eBay. There are 2 sizes, standard blade and mini blade fuse, make sure you get the correct one. Don’t ask how I know... You can then use any rating fuse that is switched how you want it, ie permanent live, ignition-on live, or accessory position live. This is because you add a fuse of the rating you require to ‘your’ cable. HTH

This is the one, Pete.... And the J519 unit where the transistor lives....

In the engine bay. It isn't where the oil filter is because it wasn't unscrewed at that time. The screw just slipped through my fingers and fell somewhere in the engine. I tried searching for it but couldn't find it... Thank you very much!

Behind the drive flange (bit the brake disc sits on) where the thread ends of the bolts are visible, use the angle grinder to cut off the lug of casting around the end of the bolt. Thinking back to when I did it, the cuts ended up being diagonal so as to avoid the main hub. I think the cuts started roughly in the middle of the bolts too. I hope this helps. Its quite hard to describe. Let me know if I can help anymore.

Indicators replaced with pattern ones.. needed doing, the nearside had things growing in it. New wiper blades, proper ones this time.. Needs badges front and back and new plates made.. among a seemingly ever increasing list of other bits..

I drove to oldham a few weeks ago to view a VRS I was picking up (600 mile round trip) I was left fuming as the car has runs in the paintwork! The guys selling the car from their car lot denied all knowledge of the poor repair ( apparently they never noticed!) beware. Hopefully picking up a 16 plate VRS 4x4 in Grey next week, once the outstanding work has been completed.

Lots of things to try, in order. 1. Heat 2. Penetrating fluid 3. sometimes hammering it flat bends the sides over enough to get a grip again and the heat and hammering helps release it 4. If you have something like a screwdriver the right width or a square drive you can hammer into the stripped spline, then get a socket or pliers on it. 5. Sharp chisel on the outer edge of the bolt head and tap it round in the correct direction. 6. Drill out and proper stud extractor 7 Weld a nut on the top. Good luck Were you using a torx?

Haha VRS lol Why? 😂😂😂😂😂😂

Had a surprise call from the dealer on Tuesday. They placed the order third week of April, and were also surprised that it had been delivered, given the current delays. Coming from a 2016 Leon Fr estate, it is so much quieter inside, and even with the 19" wheels, certain unavoidable potholes and harsh speed bumps that were quite jarring in the Leon, don't seem to trouble the Karoq much at all. Will have to see how well my kid proofing efforts work, but looking forwards to the journeys ahead.

I'd never been before, but would happily go again! Walking past the YHA Ravenstor house was a big eerie though! Also amazed at what you find atop a mountain

Fixed! For future reference... the parcel shelf had come off its tracks and so I am guessing the sensor was picking it up as it got close to shutting!

@whitevxA lot of the brands discussed are not available in bricks and mortar stores in the UK either, we have to order online or from specialist detailing suppliers. I use stuff from all over the world: Chemical Guys, Poor Boys and Collinite are American, Koch Chemie and Scholl are German, from Britain I have Meguiars, Autoglym, Dodo Juice, GTechniq, Autofinesse and CarPro. In terms of products it all depends how deep down the rabbit hole you want to go! Polish, protect and shine really needs two products for best results. I assume you are applying by hand, so my recommendation would be an All in One (AIO): Autoglym's Super Resin Polish. This isn't an abrasive polish, more of a "glaze" meaning it fills fine marks to achieve a smooth finish and shine enhancement, rather than removing a thin layer of top coat paint. It easily achieves nice results by hand although after a few months the fillers will wash out and it will need treating again, if you want it to last longer top with a durable sealant or wax and you'll probably see 6 months longevity from it. Shake well before use, apply 3 skittle sized blobs on a firm foam pad and then work in small circles over an area about the size of half a door. Wait until dry to a haze, buff off the residue with a quality microfibre (not the crap they sell in supermarkets on the cheap, something like 350+ gsm Korean edgeless plush microfibre). If it gets a bit dusty coming off then dampen with a fine water mist. And don't get it on plastic trim or rubber as it's a pig to get out! Autofinesse Tripple is worth looking into too, it's a similar product AG SRP and some prefer it but could be harder to obtain down under. Autobrite Cherry Glaze is magic stuff, smells lovely(!), fills excellently and gives everything a warm glow but the longevity is rubbish, it lasts about a month outdoors if you don't top it with something. Probably an online order job in Aus too. If you prefer permanent correction of minor defects and are willing to put in the elbow grease, Gtechniq Nano P1 is one of the most effective by hand but it's long, slow and hard work. There's no protection layer at all with this as it's purely fine abrasives, so you must top it with something. When cutting to correct you'll want a good firm foam pad, otherwise all the rubbing is for naught. If you're happy to do a two stage process there's loads of easy "spray on, wipe off" waxes and sealants that can give a few months protection and a bit of shine but they're not going to hide any scratches so you would need one of the above polishes first. Think of this as an optional second step to make your work last longer: TAC Moonlight, Gtechniq C2v3, Gyeon Wet Coat or Kamikaze Overcoat are all hardy examples of the spray ceramic breed Very easy to apply, generally misiting a couple of sprays onto a panel, spread around with one microfibre and remove excess with a second microfibre almost immediately; some are recommended to go onto a car that is damp after washing or be rinsed off immediately so do check the instructions. Waxes, sealants etc generally don't bond well to SiO2 coatings, so don't waste your time topping these with anything other than top-up sprays of the same chemical after a few washes. Collinite 845 is a hybrid liquid wax that I've sworn by for years, it lasts 3-6 months and leaves a lovely waxy glow on darker colours. It's more work to apply then the spray stuff as it has to be wiped on with soft foam then buffed off after a quick cure and I do two coats. If using ensure you warm the bottle first and shake very well, then 4 penny size blobs is enough to do a whole door, you want it on really thin otherwise it's awkward to remove later. Whatever you polish with, ensure the car is as clean as possible first because you're going to be rubbing all it all over and don't want to be dragging dirt across and creating scratches. One of the biggest things you can do to protect your car's finish is wash it carefully: that means spraying an All Purpose Cleaner (APC) on the lower areas to loosen as much dirt as possible, pressure washing thoroughly, then using a well lubricated shampoo with a deep pile or chenille noodle washmitt. Under no circumstances should a sponge go near your paint! And for drying afterwards, you will want a big plush microfibre, no old bath towels or chamois leathers! Poor wash technique imparts many fine scratches (swirls) that really dull the finish shine over time.

You can get up to speed quicker by slipstreaming faster vehicles like milk floats.

Fixed it the important bits. Snapped pin in one of the connectors. Happy days. Seat buzzer thing is still an issue but ideally I want to replace the seats anyway as the foam bases are pretty much non existent

My belt failed on Saturday. Car was new Jan 18 and has only covered 118k miles. Would have been 165k if COVID had arrived. Regular service by Fred Rees Skoda Dealer. When I rang them, they quoted 5 years when they change belt and it does not go on mileage. As my wife has the same car but estate with DSG who only covers around 10k a year, my question was surely it must be dependent on mileage with the extra wear and tear. Just said it’s nothing to do with the miles driven. Find that totally bizarre

I love the MY21 Sportline I have currently, and as @croquemonsieur has already mentioned that grill is a hard pass for me.

Full detail with lots of products new to me, first time I've ever used a machine polisher of any kind: Pre-wash with Koch Chemie Greenstar at 1:15 dilution applied with garden sprayer, then pressure washed Fairy liquid (!) wash with an Incredimitt, then pressure washed again Clay mitt with Mer's Clay lube Katsu 850w 6" DA polisher with Scholl S20 Black One Step using Chemical Guys hex logic green pads of 3.5" and 6.0". Did about 4 passes per section. Some very old Autoglym SRP glaze applied by DA using Chemical Guys hex logic black pads - surprisingly a lot less dusty than hand application Collinite 845 hybrid wax applied by hand with a German tri-foam applicator Roof has been done previously with Johnson's blue baby bath, an upholstery brush and Fabil+UV. Black plastic trim and rubbers previously done with CarPro PERL. Wheels I could not be arsed with today! With hindsight I should've gone a bit more aggressive with the pad or polish since I didn't get all the swirls out but it is much better than it was. I am now considering some Koch H8.02 and orange hex pads for the really messed up areas. It's 6 year old soft Mazda paint and been subjected to a few dealer washes so it was very swirly. Apologies for the lack of Skoda!

Lies, modded cars only appeal to boys!

Thanks. I don’t mind subtle modifications but with this car I do have resale at some point in the back of my mind. It’s already becoming a bit impractical to keep as we don’t need it as the main family car anymore and I only did a about 2k miles last year and even when things are back to normal I can’t see me doing more than 4k this year. I do still get in it and it feels really good to drive so it’s staying for now. Also, I would be a bit sceptical about buying a heavily modified 20 year old car. There have been a few horrible messes on auto trader recently and I think prices for good ones have bottomed out now.