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As promised quite update on my 4wd issues. Changed the pump, oil and filter myself , took about 2 hours, fiddly but straight forward. Hardest part was removing the filter hence the screw for leverage. Oil was grey / black full of small black particles. Pump didn't work and blocked. Filter absolutely stuffed with gunge. Moral of the story is 1: Check your rear drive kicks in, traction off and boot it on wet grass. and ..2: If you book it in for a service and have the Haldex oil changed make sure the filter is done too as many inc VW say the filter doesn't exist ( Mine is my 12 Haldex get 4, maybe different on later models ). What a difference car feels amazing and is ready for winter, surprisingly capable off road! Hope this helps someone as I ponder how many are driving a 4x4 in only 2wd like I was, same unit across the range Skoda, VW, Audi etc. A quick check will potentially avoid finding out your 4wd doesn't work when you need it!

I'm currently riding an e-bike to and from work as parking on site would be £22 and public transport to and from is very difficult. I didn't think I would ever ride a bike again after several knee injuries (I still have 4 bikes at home, as I can't bare to part with them ). The bike weighs over 25kg and I carry a further 10kg of stuff in my panniers, sometimes even more. The bike is a Trek Powerfly 4 and is a bit of a dog to get past 15.5mph on the flat. The weight, massive off-road knobblies and what feels a bit like motor drag, make it very hard work, as does the lack of higher gears for quick road work. I have one big hill on my journey and although I get my pulse and breathing up substantially on the climb, there is no way I could get that bike and load up the hill without the assistance, my knees would not thank me at all (yes I do spin rather than grind). Being an ex-roadie, I find the road speed very limiting, but off-road, the motor is a beast. 85nm of torques things (abut the same as the Mini 1275 GT) is astonishing, as is a rumoured peak power of well over 500W (Bosch apparently underrate their motors). Sadly, the bike tyres are too wide to fit in a regular bike rack! So I need to find a tree or some such, to lash it too. More appropriate tyres will be fitted at some point. The range is reasonable considering the route I take and the 'intelligent' eMTB mode is still working out my average range as it takes a while to settle in. I do find getting my 'leg over' quite a task, especially on the hill I have to mount the bike on. It's very tall and with the giant Ortlieb panniers it's a good workout for you hip socket. Surprisingly, not being clipped in hasn't been the problem it normally was for me. Maybe it's the motor assist that helps me and stops me trying to pull up with my non power stroke leg? Also I intend to cut the bars down a bit, as they are too wide for general use and prevent the bike getting through countless gaps. Plus I can't lift the bike when fully loaded, at least not in any meaningful way. I have looked at chip tuning, just to get a small lift to maybe 20mph on 'non-public' roads of course, but Bosch have anti-tuning software that causes a lot of problems for those that fit them. You have to do a 90 minute penalty ride with no power to reset the most common fault code this causes and after 3 strikes, you have to have a factory reset at your dealers. Many users claim to have bricked their motors!

Left or right hand drive probably.

The DPF light indicates a problem. It's not an indication of a regen happening, but an indication that you need to either force a regen, drive at higher revs for a period to burn off soot accumulation, or the DPF is seriously choked and needs replacement. In normal use you'd never see the DPF light except for the test procedure on start up.

That's not correct for a normal regen, the only way to tell a regen is in progress is oil temperature will be raised by a few degrees, tickover raised by about 200 rpm and sounding gruff, a hot burning smell from the exhaust and cooling fans running when engine switched off, but there is no light on dashboard that a regen is in progress.

I suppose luckily I was in a group run by our local council under a healthy lifestyle scheme, lead riders are British Cycling trained and we register for each ride with all our details available. Checked over before they let me back on the bike, as I was nearer home than start after a few hundred metres I decided to go home. Lead rider insisted I was accompanied home and had a phone call from the guy who is in charge of the scheme, he rides with us once a month, at 7.30 last night. It will be reported as a 'near miss' as I got home under own power and no 999 call, arse covering but I was looked after. Now deciding whether to go to Hospital or not

There is a list of insurers and their requirements for winter wheels and tyres https://www.abi.org.uk/products-and-issues/choosing-the-right-insurance/motor-insurance/winter-tyres/ There is also a list of approved wheel and tyre sizes for the Octy listed in erWin tech manual specific to the model. If you stay within those sizes I would say you are bulletproof insurance wise. I don't have details for the 245 but the smallest approved combinations for the previous vRS were 225/45/17 on a 7.5J and 205/50/17 on a 6J (the latter size being approved for snow chain use.

Due to high number of requests let me make some short summary of units that can be installed in Octavia III cars. I have focused only on MIB2 / MIB2.5 units, to indicate differences between them. Simplified Bolero MY15 unit 5Q0035819 (without DAB) or 5Q0035820 (with DAB) Simplified Bolero MY16 unit 5Q0035819A (without DAB) or 5Q0035820A (with DAB) Simplified Bolero MY17 unit 5Q0035819B (without DAB) or 5Q0035820B (with DAB) Simplified Bolero MY18 unit 5Q0035819C (without DAB) or 5Q0035820C (with DAB) Bolero MY15 unit 5Q0035840 (without DAB) or 5Q0035842 (with DAB) Bolero MY16 unit 5Q0035840A (without DAB) or 5Q0035842A (with DAB) Bolero MY17 unit 5Q0035840B (without DAB) or 5Q0035842B (with DAB) Bolero MY18 unit 5Q0035840C (without DAB) or 5Q0035842C (with DAB) Bolero MY19 unit 565035840 (without DAB) or 565035842 (with DAB) Amundsen MY16 unit 5Q0035864A (without DAB) or 5Q0035874A (with DAB) Amundsen MY17 unit 5Q0035864B (without DAB) or 5Q0035874B (with DAB) Amundsen MY18 unit 5Q0035864C (without DAB) or 5Q0035874C (with DAB) Amundsen MY19 unit 565035864 (without DAB) or 565035874 (with DAB) Columbus MIB2 unit 3V0035020x (with DAB, with regular Bluetooth, without LTE Modem) Columbus MIB2 unit 3V0035021x (with DAB, with premium Bluetooth, with LTE Modem) Columbus MIB2 unit 3V0035043x (without DAB, with regular Bluetooth, without LTE Modem) Columbus MIB2 unit 3V0035044x (without DAB, with premium Bluetooth, with LTE Modem) Columbus MIB2.5 unit 565035020x (with DAB, with regular Bluetooth, without LTE Modem) Columbus MIB2.5 unit 565035021x (with DAB, with premium Bluetooth, with LTE Modem) Columbus MIB2.5 unit 565035043x (without DAB, with regular Bluetooth, without LTE Modem) Columbus MIB2.5 unit 565035044x (without DAB, with premium Bluetooth, with LTE Modem) All MIB2 units (as well as Columbus MIB1 which is not listed here) work with 800x480 pixels screens, either 6.5 or 8 inch. MY15 unit support MirrorLink only (no support for SmartLink). SImplified Bolero units do not support rear view camera and voice command. Simplified Bolero, Bolero and Amundsen MY15 and MY16 have old style (rotating, monochrome) menu, with only 1 skin having 5 memory buttons in radio and phone menu. They don't support for APP key in 8 inch FL screens. Simplified Bolero, Bolero and Amundsen MY17 have old style (rotating, monochrome) menu, with 2 skins having 5 or 6 memory buttons in radio and phone menu. It may also support Media Command (depending on FEC.SWaP codes installed). Simplified Bolero, Bolero and Amundsen MY18 has both old style (rotating, monochrome) and new style (pictures, color) menu, with 2 skins having 5 or 6 memory buttons in radio and phone menu. It may also support Media Command (depending on FEC. SWaP codes installed). Columbus units have built-in DVD drive and HDD for maps and audio / video files. Only Columbus units can play video files from USB/CD/DVD/SD. Every MIB2 Columbus unit can be reworked into MIB2.5 unit if required. MIB2.5 Columbus requires new 9.2" screen 5E0919606D. Every Columbus unit can drive directly subwoofer and central speaker (although this setup is not officially supported by Skoda). "x" at the end of Columbus units model number is letter A/B/C/D. Can also be missing. It makes no difference, just indicates original SW release family. Every of listed above units can be reworked into Plug&Play version (no need to visit SKODA dealer).

Hi all! Took delivery of my new 2021 Scala Monte Carlo in 'Energy Blue' Just here to say hi! Currently working through setting up the primary user profile which is a challenge but in the middle of following a guide on the forum.

Who said that? Here in Greece we have hot cliamate too and the Skoda mechanics which had Felicia some years ego suggest 80-85C and even 75-80C thermo-switch I have use all the scales from 70 till 90C and i have found that the 80-85 is more suitable. I don't know if you can find thermostat 80C for Felicia but IF ALL the others (coolant,radiator,thermostat sensor,no leak from hose,the cap from expansion tank is proper fitting) a 88C thermostat as we have here can do the job perfectly.

@JohnnyJohnBoyThey can maybe help with the fault that has you checking a wiring diagram, if you post what it is that you have happening.

Low Oil level is a Yellow Oil Can and also a message on the Maxidot on some vRS. Low Oil Pressure is a Red Oil Can and can also be a message on the Maxidot on a vRS. The Low oil pressure can show before the low oil which can be as much as 1.3 litres lowand not come on. If warning lights come on and you open the bonnet yet do nothing the lights will go out. There is still an issue though. The Gauge is for the Coolant which usually shows at 90*oC once it gets up to that. Oil temp does not come on until 50*oC then gets up to the 90*oC etc eventually. You can leave that showing on the dash if you want it, or the fuel average consumption 1 or 2, or range etc.

Thanks @e-Roottoot. I've done a bit more digging on forums and think I'm going to see if I can check the wiring for loose/broken connections before i post again about the sensor. I've downloaded wiring diagrams and that has raised a query of it's own that I've posted about if the Fabia II forum.

Sounds like you mean Yeti size - that would be the ideal for me, compact, no wider than 1800mm, so easy to park and fit in narrow car parking bays (and along narrow country lanes). I believe the Enyaq is a bit smaller than the Kodiaq, but as roomy inside. So when the time comes, I'm hoping the new smaller electric SUV will be Yeti size on the outside.

Beaut of a second car there @MiniNinjaRob! I also share the love for estates, just so versatile (not long returned from a tip run with it full to the top). Edit: ours is six weeks old, a couple of gremlins but now all sorted and fine

I know it is academic now, but I'd have ben a bit concerned about why the suspension had needed so much work. Shocks usually last quite a while, so that would have been a slight worry, and springs too. although estates are usually the ones that get the) 'carried a cement mixer around in the back' kind of abuse). The springs (corrosion) might have been a fail at the last MoT, and that can happen, without evident/particular cause, particularly in seaside areas. I'd have also wanted a look at the tyres/brand. As a fairly cheap car, you wouldn't expect 'top of the range', but you'd probably want to avoid 'no name/ditchfinders' just from a safety point of view And, bear in mind that if the tyres had been changed recently, that could have been legit/general wear, or it could have been an odd wear pattern due to suspension mis-alignment (probably covered up by the dealer fitting the cheapest tyres he could find). It didn't have the look of a car that had been to the moon and back, making the shocks a bit of a mystery, unless the miles were really high.

@JohnnyJohnBoy worth starting a new thread on that in the Mk2 Fabia section.

Thanks. FWIW we went to look at a Kuga as its another option and even as big Ford fans we really disliked it. We love big estate cars! Wagons FTW. Mind you even the Octavia isn’t as good at being an estate car compared to our 2nd car - see attached picture!!

This seems crazy that there's no traditional 12V / cigar lighter in the car. Looks like I'll need an extension for my tyre inflator! Does anyone know if the USB C ports are 5V only, or if they support higher voltages aka Power Delivery? If so it might be possible to get an adapter cable to give a 12V socket.

I will ask the dealer why that Basic option is not appearing and if I he can order it.

It's only seems to show the gear number in S mode, no idea why Skoda have done this!

After Teatime & Tour de France coverage for the day, i might go for a ride in the local slate quarry and try to not die on the easy paths. Often i bottle it and end up walking my way out of scary spots. I am in awe.

Oh no! Sad times. Thanks for this project thread - I've found it a really useful resource.

Best bet for sound advice is get yourself on the Facebook group: EV Drivers UK There are many, many experts on there with good charger and tarrif knowledge. The little EO gets good reviews and avoid tethered, just from my EV experience.

Sorry we can't help more. My best shot for a "hard brakes" issue is a problem with the servo leaking vacuum or the vacuum line that feeds it being blocked. Actually, that gives me an idea. If that line is externally fabric armoured rubber, there is a known failure mode where it collapses internally, resulting in a loss of vacuum and hence of the servo assistance function. If there is such a line, then if someone squeezes it, it will feel squidgy.

I've done similar bbut still have the Karoq, gone for an electric car to test the water with them.

What/where is the MAF plug? Just opened the fuel filter canister, its clean, as is the filter element, reassembled it, primed the cannister as recommended, still the same. No carista message or VCDS message either, looks like a short trip is due! - then a rescan!

I've had a poke around in a non Medical style and in my expert opinion I think it's bruising so a few rest days and see where I am with it

I can see why you're selling but it is a shame. I sold my first Mk1 back when our children were small and I needed to get three child seats in the rear. It was the sensible thing to do but I regretted it instantly, hence getting another MK1 a few years later. I reckon you'll miss it but in the end if it's an expense you don't need then someone else will be able to enjoy the car.

@KenONeill Actually if you know anything about Scottish Rights of way and vehicular rights of way and pedestrians you will know that pedestrians are human powered. And it is cycling and walking and even human powered scooters or wheelchairs. That is in Scottish Law / statute. By-laws might mean no cycling on pavements where there is street lighting. Just because someone blocks a vehicular right of way and makes it just a right of way or even blocks that, then putting up signs means nothing. So that is not just a path or passage for people on foot or in wheel chairs. People that are going to accept others interpretations of law should get to know the law for that country. This includes police officers and even council officials. They should get to know the local authorities Right of way officer. I have been a member of The Rough stuff fellowship and the Mountain Bothy Association for 45 years now. Important to know your rights in Scotland. PS I have on my new tribute to you helmet today. Ok just need an extra L to put on it. I have a set of letters someplace. PPS. All-around Angus are shared walking and cycling routes and pavements or pathways. Also paths for all which includes access for horse riders. Millions came from the Commonwealth games shooting being held at Barry Buddon. There are loads of new projects in the planning and opening already. http://gobike.org/cycling-info/cycling-faqs

See the latest posts on the KPH/MPH. Definatley not minor problems!

See the latest on the KPH/MPH thread post 10 hours or so ago. Still MASSIVE problems. My advice would be to leave off buying one for the time being. There are still way to many issues with it. Give a year or so until they have solved ALL of the issues. Just my my view of course but my time owning one was thoroughly miserable and stressful.

I went from a 2015 1.4 to a 2018 1.5 and now a 2021 1.5. The performance of the older 1.4 and 1.5 were similar but the 1.5 was quieter. The 2018 1.5 kangarooed horribly at low speeds - the 2021 does not and is generally very smooth. However, the newer one is definitely higher geared, so it needs more shift downs to keep in the torque band - this makes it feel less powerful in day to day use: floor it in 3rd on a motorway slip and it's very brisk but try to increase from 50-70 in top and it's now sluggish whereas the previous cars just pulled away. This is because it's now running at <2k rpm at 70mph in 6th. I think the previous cars were closer to 2.5-3k at the same speed, but I can't really remember. I would say that the 1.4 was the better all-rounder engine, and linked with the 30-40 mile electric motor and an auto box seems like it would be a great combination.

It takes 10 minutes to remove the rear two seats. It's definitely not the same as having the 5 seater boot, but it would be an easy way to reclaim extra space, if that is your main concern. With the added flexibility of being able to put the seats back in if you ever need them!

i know the feeling youre talking about. ive had it while driving, that feeling that you just know something is going to happen, and then you nearly get killed by some kittens. edit - @ColinD love the autocorrect for the word richard head

>"Would probably enjoy a new cam belt...". Not at 12k miles it wouldn't. VW recommend inspection at 160k miles, there is no required time limit specified. Could save yourself £'s by sticking to manufacturer guidelines.

So the hapless owners are VAG's quality assurance checkers. Says it all really.

@john999boy No, you are thinking of DC rapid charging. There are no conflicting specs. AC single phase (what you have at home) maxes out at 7.4kW. This is the limit of the cable (32 amp current). On 3 phase AC the limit is 22kW. Still 32 amp current but 3 phases so 3x7.4. To make use of AC to charge a battery it must be converted to DC. This is done by the car's on board charger. The max output of the on board charger is 11kW. Therefore the max AC charge rates for Enyaq are 7.4kW single phase AND 11kW 3-phase.

You can go for a Bolaro MIB 2.5 unit with an 8.5" buttonless system for very reasonable money. Again, speak with @pab567 who can assist with prices and units.

The 1.4 MPI has more torque from lower RPM than the 1.4 16V engines. You could modify it to a fast road spec. by gasflowing the cylinder head and fitting a different cam then having it remapped on a rolling road but it would cost about €1000 for another 15 bhp. You do the math.

Wheel controls require a High CAN Gateway which needs CP removal and FeC reassignment and after that you need the buttons and airbag loom for the buttons. If you have a MIB2 the 8 inch screen is plug and play.

Indicators replaced with pattern ones.. needed doing, the nearside had things growing in it. New wiper blades, proper ones this time.. Needs badges front and back and new plates made.. among a seemingly ever increasing list of other bits..

Some pics of my 3 month old superb. Loving the car. Wife tried to convince me to buy it in business grey but fancied a change after a few grey and black cars. Didn't fancy paying the premium on velvet red so race blue it was.

car looks stunning , i need to do the deletes but 3 slipped discs and a herniated one limits engine bay time lately so if anyone local to Leeds can help i will pay with money and a sandwich plus tea or coffee

If I had a pound for every time someone has been advised to only buy genuine MAPs or MAFs...

Pay attention to fine precission tools and protein drink

Thanks for all the advice, very helpful. WBAC suggest c£5000, but I think that deserves a large pinch of salt.

Your welcome Not always, kids were asleep after long exhausted day, so I gave them over 1 hour: 80km/h on highway for about 100km. Yes, fear is good stuff, keeps you from doing wrong things. In my opinion DMF is rather about undeniable driving comfort then constructional & engineering clutch/crankshaft/gearbox upset. As for driving experience, DMF can not match SMF. Honda Civic Type R (2019), for an example, has OEM SMF. Does it broken crankshaft, here and there, brake the hood at the the 1st cosmic speed? Of course not. Some Porsche models have OEM SMF as well, other cars too. Thanks for visiting this topic, I appreciate it

So I bit bullet and ordered a genuine exhaust from skoda. It cost pretty much what a stainless replacement would cost but I just decided to retain as much originality as possible and avoid any extra noise. Boring old fart, I know. The current exhaust is original so l'm not worried about how long it might last. Hopefully all will be well when I collect it next week, no incorrect parts or whatever. I almost died when he gave me the price at first as he'd mistakenly included a new downpipe and cat.

I decided to get up early this morning and head off for a drive. We're lucky that there are some amazing roads round here and that on a Sunday morning the only real traffic on the roads is the occasional sheep or pheasant. The route is about 74 miles and goes from Scarborough up to Whitby, over the tops and then down to Danby, Castleton, Blakey Ridge and back home to Scarborough via Pickering. I also took a few photos along the way as it seemed like a good idea at the time. The car performed brilliantly and even returned nearly 37mpg despite the occasional use of the right foot. It's been ages since I used the car for anything other than going to work and back so I'm glad i made the effort.