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Hi, I don't post very often but I thought this was a bit of a milestone, my Yeti just clicked over 100k miles this morning. Its a nearly 8 year old 140BHP diesel that I've owned since new & use for work. Its never let me down & the only parts I've had to fit apart from service items are a set of glowplugs, 2 cv joints & a wheel bearing (the last two in the last couple of weeks). Its not had the emissions fix, been run on supermarket diesel & mainly used on the Isle of Wight. I was thinking of replacing it but like others have said, can't seem to find anything that match's it.

Just got car back, no more noises. Transpires it was only the pump filter that had swarf apparently, and oil drained was clear. New pump fitted and Haldex refilled and tested by them and deemed a success, time will tell. As long as it lasts till December as my new Kodiaq is due then.

I'm in the "Never going back to that dealer" camp too. It's going to be a pain as I went for a VW Tiguan to replace it and it means I'll need to drive to another garage around 25 miles away from home instead of the one just down the road. However, they messed me around so much (and for so long) and added a lot of unnecessary stress to the whole process. I'd rather a bit of inconvenience than give them another penny.

That sounds far more like differential failure, are you certain the drained oil containing swarf was not from the differential? It sounds very much like someone there has got their holes confused. I did the same and ran for a couple of hundred miles with a dry differential, I avoided catastrophic failure but have diff noise and under the circumstances you describe I sometimes feel transmission wind up before something releases with a jerk, I initially thought the Halde coupling was snagging but it should not be engaged in those situations and is free spinning when tested, I am pretty sure its half shaft windup from the planet gears locking before releasing with a snatch, I had eactly the same with a Ford diff that would lock up occasionally. Lucky that its still under warranty because other owners have been stuffed for £4.5k to make good the dealers incompetence, I bet you a pound to a penny they will find some excuse to eplain why they had to replace the whole differential.

Parking ticket holder

The build of the original Rapid hatch was patchy true but from the introduction of the Spaceback things looked up, and I see a definite improvement in build quality between my two. I don't mind the odd few rattles and squeaks, I mean Rapid & Toledo are cheap as chips so that's expected, but mine both had major failures. #1Brand New 2014 1.2 TSI. Actuator & turbo replacement at 2.5 years/26000 miles. Car did about 300 miles a week A- road commute. Never thrashed. Why did it break? #2 Brand New 2017 1.0 TSI. Actuator & turbo replacement at 2 years/15000 miles. Same commute but spending more time out of country so not doing so many miles. Never thrashed. Why did this one break? Sure our old tech 2015 Ibiza 1.4 16V never went wrong, but 2 out of 3 is pretty poor? Will I ever buy another VW group car? Only if it's 1000s cheaper than the alternatives, and even then that's just a maybe...

It indicates available regeneration/recharge. It's dictated by battery charge level and battery temperature. When the battery is full, or nearly full, there's limited regeneration potential so the bar shortens. If your battery is very cold (winter morning) or hot (driving for a long time in battery charge) it'll also shorten. You'll notice the effects if you drive in B mode, when the bar is short it'll not slow down by much at all when you lift off the throttle. It can catch you by surprise if you're expecting to slow down and it continues to coast as normal.

@Michaeldavis39 posted an image with the part number 5E0035842A which is a MIB1 Bolero. Looking at the ones on eBay, they have production dates from late 2013 to early 2015 which makes sense and means it can't support Smartlink/CarPlay/Android Auto. If they did have display from their phone, the only plausible option would be Mirrorlink Looking at the G50 spec, there is no mention of Mirrorlink in the screen sharing section so that would certainly explain the behaviour reported: https://www.phonearena.com/phones/Motorola-Moto-G50_id11670

Quick update. Alancha - provided an interim fix for the SOS fault that unfreezes the infotainment system. Basically press the emergency call red SOS button above your head, press ignition and you will hear a voice giving you an option to cancel - press the red SOS button to cancel the call at this point and within a very short time the infotainment system flashes up as normal. It worked for me and hopefully will last until the software fix is available. I think engaging and then cancelling the SOS call cleared the related glitch and allowed a system reset. I am surprised the garage didn’t know about this.

I hope you'll forgive me for starting a new thread about this, as the points I'm about to mention have been raised in other threads. I'm doing so because I feel there is probably a connection between these seemingly unrelated faults - the connection being that they all relate to which side of the road the car thinks we should be driving on. These are discussed in the following threads: ACC Misbehaving KPH/MPH Full Matrix Headlights In Vehicle app, under Headlights, there are several settings relating to lights, one of which is labelled "Travel mode". This shows either "Driving on the right" or "Driving on the left". Although there's a pull-down menu, which confusingly offers the options "Traffic on the right" and "Traffic on the left", I find it doesn't let you change the setting from what it's already set on. When I look at this setting I find that usually it is set to "Driving on the right" but sometimes it shows "Driving on the left". Whatever it is set to it seems to remain on that for the rest of the day. I'm guessing that the car is supposed to use GPS to decide, based on the driving rules in the country it's in. If so, it is clearly confused about where I live as it surely ought always to show "Driving on the left". Even stranger than this is a message I sometimes get on the instrument panel when starting the car warning me that the "Headlight adjustment for driving on the right is active". Whenever this message has been displayed, I've gone to the Vehicle settings and found the Travel mode set to "Driving on the left". This has been the case every time I've checked. My idea is that if the car is confused about where it is, and on which side of the road I should be driving, it could explain all the problems listed above. The ACC overtaking problem would be explained if it actually thought it was undertaking (i.e. it couldn't pass the slower car to the left - which would be true in most of Europe), it could explain the KPH/MPH problem, and might explain why the headlights sometimes dazzle oncoming drivers (if they're set for the wrong side of the road). As I said, I've commented on this in separate threads but as I feel they may all be connected, I wanted to bring them all together. I'm attaching my System Information panel in case it's relevant. My car is going to the dealer tomorrow for the latest update - I wonder if it will it be 1803 or perhaps the new one that's expected any time now.

So, my car was a 2020 Octavia with headunit 5E3035816B, software 1664 updated to 1668. With that headunit it was impossible to activate wireless Android auto. Since last week there is an update available on the Skoda server, that will update the version to 5E3 035 816 F and SW version 1806. And I can confirm that my wireless android auto is now working! It should also fix some bluetooth, rear view camera and other issues. The official update will be launched in one or two weeks!

Welcome to the forum. Whoever told you that at the dealership is a liar. Was it a Technician or someone else. I would call Skoda Assist and have that car collected and a courtesy car delivered, or just get it back to the Dealership and get a refund.

On mk1 the instrument cluster is pretty easy to remove, and then the circuit board pretty easy to remove from the plastic housing. Once you have the board out, you can examine the solder connections of the green connector by lifting the edge of the bezel. (But..) You may be able to provoke misbehaviour by just waggling the loom connection to this green plug while everything's still connected and engine running, after loosening the cluster enough to get to the connector. You might even be able to reach up to it from below with everything still in place, not sure. The sensor earth connects via a splice within the loom where a few earths join up.

Out of interest, did you fit a genuine part for the sensor, or I hate to say it was it a cheap pattern part ?

that will have been the B ) you put on have you tried connecting another phone to the BT? and the phone to another BT? just in case theres a general issue with either? can happen. @Rustynuts is very good with the HUnits, so probably has some advice too

They will also have negotiated a discount for ordering a quantity of standard vehicles or those with the spec that they think will most appeal.

“It’s quite normal for the boot to explode at motorway speeds sir, it’s just the car settling as you run it in”.

Wow, that’s very unfortunate. If mine plans on killing its turbo it had better do it before the warranty ends. I did take it to the dealership recently to have them listen to a metallic rattle from the turbo after having read one of your earlier posts about your turbo failures, but they said it is normal behaviour. Hopefully they are correct.

I'll have my car for 3 years in February, and so far (touch wood)it's been without major issues, certainly nothing like you've mentioned. It's had a few small problems (if you can call them those, plus the car is 7 years old, so...): Timing chain tensioner needed to be replaced as it begun to rattle when starting, but that was a relatively quick fix by a local garage. The front passenger window mechanism gave up one day with a loud bang, so the window remained shut until it was replaced. Again, a relatively quick fix (once they got the right part) by a local garage The panoramic roof cracked from a stone chip (I think? No idea really) and had to be replaced, but that was done through insurance so only cost me the excess (at a total cost of £1500+). As @chrisgreenmentioned, it is a bit of a noisy car in terms of rattles and whatnot. There's quite a few threads on here about them squeaking over bumps.

That was a major motivation for me in choosing the SportLine!

Outstanding, I have started to just accept the fact I have to connect my phone manually via Bluetooth every 2nd or 3rd trip so hopefully that's fixed that too.

I went for one of these however I love the look of the Sportline Enyaq. I think it's one of the best looking at the moment too

Exactly as mistac has just posted. I got my S hooks from Wilko - a couple of quid for several. Yes, the bungees are still a tight stretch, but the hooks work fine. Just a pity the central seat in the Varioflex seats won't tilt forward as far as the outside seats.

I'd try Koni Special Actives. They are a move on from the FSD dampers. Had them on my mk1 Fabia VRS with Eibach springs and they were spot on. Very compliant over bumpy roads but firmed up under cornering and braking.

Let us know what they tell you. I thought it was a charging thing...quite weird

It might be easier to install better dampers and springs matched to your car.

Assuming it's like the Leaf, it's the amount of energy the battery can take from regeneration . Full battery = no (or much reduced) ability to accept charge. Low battery and its all OK.

I'm sorry it's over for you but glad at the same time, owning the MK4 was the most stressful months of car ownership I ever had. It isn't worth the sleepless nights and worry over a stupid lump of metal that doesn't work. The relationship with my dealership was totally soured by my experience too. I understand they too were frustrated that they had been sold a bunch of lemons to try and sell on to the consumer, and then had apparently five (at that time) rejects to deal with. But that is neither the consumer's fault nor problem, and I was saddened by how quickly and easily the dealership passed the buck and said it was all up to Skoda to sort out. I also will never return to where I bought my MK4.

Changing the offset from 51 to 48 will cause the wheel to sit 3mm further out. So that's either 3mm per side or a 6mm total track width increase, https://www.willtheyfit.com/ is a handy site for comparing alloy/wheel sizes. I doubt it's enough to cause any major issues

No, your contract is with the dealership. The dealership is reimbursed by Skoda UK. Do everything through the dealership.

Is fake tyres a thing?

I’m on a PCP and the great price they offered for my car is guaranteed till my new car arrives in December or whenever, so no being without a car.

Have you never done the engine change with your V5 to the DVLA or have they just not changed it on the database?

Pretty much so yeah. His weekend off seems to have done the Tidy One some good, in that he's not causing shunts that ruin other people's weekends atm.

Pull the hook out hard vertically first and only then try to hook it to the headrest. If you pull and try together it doesn't work. tom

Engines do need a run in period. Looking at 0-100 times it's not slower, so maybe that is it.

could an alternative option be to zip/winrar the file and have that passworded, so that you can't access/unzip without the password?

Don't think there is such a display. It would be pretty meaningless since the figures displayed include energy recovered and depending on the settings energy from the generator. Its easy for me, on Octopus Energy you can simply download your energy usage in spread sheet format and with a swipe of the mouse see how much the car has used to charge. From zero miles to full (approx. 33 miles on the dash) its about 11.8 kWh on average.

Wee pic from tonight’s walk

Easy explanation; you braked so much and so often that you drained all the vacuum out of the servo, and the engine/vacuum pump took a few seconds to rebuild vacuum.

I've done similar bbut still have the Karoq, gone for an electric car to test the water with them.

To diagnose 'neutral gear rollover', on a hill apply the park brake and let the engine idle with the clutch engaged i.e. no foot on pedal. It should show the knocking symptoms described. Release the park brake and, in neutral, let the vehicle roll down the hill. At about 5-10mph the knocking should cease as the gears are loaded via the rotating driveshafts. This is quite common for this transmission and isn't clutch related. My 2016 Colours model started knocking at about 5k miles and currently still does it at 70k miles. The transmission works perfectly, albeit noisily. Other contributing factors include:- 1) A lack of dual mass flywheel coupled to a 'less than smooth' 3 cylinder engine. 2) Thin transmission oil to reduce transmission drag, thereby improving fuel efficiency but not damping transmission noise. 3) A 'class leading' low mass transmission housing not damping transmission noise. Below an explanation from Volkswagen from 2012:- This is a documented issue acknowledged by VW and is the result of the car NOT having a dual Mass Flywheel, the device that has been causing some serious trouble on older cars. It is covered under the VW technical product information notice below that basically tells you there is nothing to worry about and nothing that can be done to stop it. Rattling noise from engine bay at idle vehicles fitted with 02S 5 speed manual gearbox (UK TPI) Release date: 05-Dec-2012 Technical product information Transaction No.: 2032109/1 Customer statement / workshop findings Rattling noise from the engine bay area with the engine running at idle. Technical background Neutral gear rollover noise describes the condition whereby a rattling noise from the constant mesh gearing in the transmission is heard while the engine idles with the clutch engaged (pedal released). It is caused by engine torsional vibration and is particularly prevalent on vehicles with a single mass flywheel and low idle speed requirements. The intensity of neutral gear rollover noise will increase with transmission temperature and / or an increase of torque loading, for example air conditioning or heated rear window activation. The rollover noise is inherent to transmission design and will disappear when a gear is selected and the vehicle is driven. The noise is not detrimental to the transmission or engine components and does not constitute a manufacturing defect. Production change None. Measure When evaluating transmission complaints please draw on the statements above when assessing the complaint, remembering to account for engine refinement, gear selection “feel”, and clutch operation. Warranty accounting instructions Normal warranty guidelines apply. Parts information No parts information. Customer information Neutral gear rollover noise will not negatively affect the longevity or performance of the vehicle. It is concept related and does not constitute a manufacturing defect.

The one next to F30.

I used Kurust on my metal gates where the paint had flaked off, never topped it with anything and rust hasn't come back two years on, so I wouldn't worry!

Ken, please stop attacking... "the effective resistance of an electric circuit or component to alternating current, arising from the combined effects of ohmic resistance and reactance." This isn't about right and wrong, it's about helping people fix their cars. Leave right and wrong for ethical arguments which have no place here.

There's a Semi-active group on FB called "North West Skoda's UK", unsure if that has anyone on from here.

The contact phone numbers for mytyres.co.uk are now working again. Apparently it's Brexit related. Let's hope everything gets back to normal soon.

I was going to leave this till tomorrow but I’m too excited! Phases 1 and 2 of the ambient lighting project are now complete, first job was colour palette upgrade from 10 to 30 colours and the second job was the colour changing floor lighting to match the screens, doors and dash strips. More is to come but for now I’m super duper happy 😃

Although what is written in the title is not entirely my case, it should help. So I put an aftermarket headlights into my car and now on the pin where used to be halogen daytime running lights is LED strip. Can somebody please share coding for changing DRLs bulb to LED, so I can get rid off error message on dashboard? Thank you.

Thats more than likely the issue then, there are many reports of the one click option changing additional coding that doesn’t need changing.... and not un coding it all again if you revert back to standard. This is the reason why ALL coding should be physically changed by 'long coding’ or ‘adaptations’ and not the one click method.