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I have bought one... collecting on Tuesday

Here’s a picture of my headlights now. It’s dark so I apologise. You can see the projector and next to is is my LED sidelight bulb where the full beam bulb normally is on the other headlight

That’s it mate, in the Monte Carlo, the sidelight hole is none existent and instead the sidelight goes where the full beam bulb is in that headlight.

Those are just poverty spec ones, no projector. Zoom into the headlight I’ve just commented. There’s the projector, then next to it on the right is the full beam bulb and in the top right corner is the side light.

Correct, it does share the same reflector area but the full beam bulb is more in the middle of that section so it reflects better. I can take photos close up in case it’s confusing. No I haven’t sorted the flashing yet. I’m gonna see an auto electrician towards the end of the month and then I’ll post an update

It’s sidelight towards the top and in the middle which is just hidden by the projector is the full beam. I know because when I switched the bulbs over I was confused, the regular headlights have an extra bulb which is the full beam where the montes are just the regular dipped beam with a shutter which isn’t good but whatever

I’ve had my Octavia for a few months now, and am really enjoying it, apart from the rubbish boot illumination. Two tiny dim lights, one of which only worked half the time (obviously a loose connection, easily sorted). However, in my spares box, I found a couple of 3” 12V LED strips - see pic - which just fit under the side supports for the parcel shelf. I put one each side, and the twin wires are hidden under the boot seal, and disappear behind the boot trim, to be ‘piggy-backed’ to the wiring for the original lights,which pop out easily for access. While the LEDs were originally self-adhesive, they’d been in my spares box for ages, so I used number plate adhesive pads to secure them. I was amazed at the difference, and no errors have shown up - presumably these lights are not monitored, as the one not working hadn’t shown up either.

Probably something like this.... https://www.wish.com/c/58a520d88557757e72bc9678?hide_login_modal=true&from_ad=goog_shopping&_display_country_code=GB&_force_currency_code=GBP&pid=googleadwords_int&c={campaignId}&ad_cid=58a520d88557757e72bc9678&ad_cc=GB&ad_curr=GBP&ad_price=16.00

Here is a master illustration of how the headlight seems to work.

Thanks Richmix. I’ve just done the update to 5.73. I’ll let you know. Cheers

Don't worry its perfectly normal. When you turn your A/C on, especially in the recent hot weather, the radiator fan goes into overdrive to keep the condensor cool. Externally it can sound like a jet engine starting. You may find it cycles on and off (it does on the fabia) So long as you're getting nice cool air in the cabin, there's absolutely no reason to "service" your a/c.

That wouldn’t really work as the full beam relies on the reflector background to work. If tou spray it all black then it wouldn’t really work and would certainly be an MOT failure if you are bothered

Fan speed will increase when turning on the AC especially during warmer months of the year. If its just the noise from the extra fan rotation your hearing then that is normal. Just make sure its not rubbing on a cowling or shroud due to movement from the extra speed. The other thing to note is that, Yes!! You also need your AC serviced at that age if it has not been touched from new until now.

I've wanted to retrofit monte lights to mine but it seemed like too much of a hassle. Would've thought it would just be easier to split your normal headlights open and spray them black.

If a caliper is rusty, it may not close/open nicely, when the brakes are pressed. Any issue with discs will then be greatly exaggerated!

Managed to lend a grinder so that nuts going brown Town tomorrow thanks for the advice guys 😀

Have you checked the door to pillar wiring looms? Pull back the rubber concertina bellows and check the wiring. Often at this age the wires have broken, due to brittle insulation and constant flexing. Start with the drivers door and work your way round. Need to check all doors. The connectors can also give trouble to due oxidation and corrosion, disconnect, inspect, clean reconnect. Take time and care inspecting the wires as they can often be broken internally and the insulation intact, so they look ok, but the cores are broken.

These graphs completely neglect energy storage. Fossil fuels as well as synthetically made fuels using green electricity have storage and transport costs over magnitude lower than electricity stored in current batteries. For starters, for the same amount of energy stored, you need 40x - 50x heavier storage for electricity in a lithium battery than for kerosene or diesel. 300miles is still not sufficient range for significant percentage of cars, mine included (I need 1500, or 400 under worst of winter/night, with <15min refuel). I think that to completely remove fossil fueled cars, ships and planes, humanity will eventually need to go back to liquid organic fuels, only made using wholly renewable means. Biodiesel from algae, anyone (harvested/processed using offshore wind electricity)? Not a solution for town centres, but certainly for ships and planes.

Yes looking like cutting it unfortunately I don't own a grinder so looking like hacksaw and a fresh pack of blades and arm ache 🙄

all done and dusted guide was helpful thankyou i fitted the cowl after fitting the wheel back on the hardest part was getting the connectors out, did not want to break anything, all good in th end for a car thats only done 12k in 6 years thats 3 faults now fixed!

Hello from Bucharest, Romania! Car ordered on 2nd February, 1 week before Meteor grey color ban. Car delivered after 16 weeks on 25th of may.

They're not specifically illegal (as in there's no UK law that says "though shalt not use studded tyres on the public road") but official advice has been that you can be done for using tyres that damage the surface of the road* - so in theory you'd have to swap wheels every time you came to a dry piece of tarmac. * Road Vehicles (Construction & Use) Regulations 1986 section 27(h): "the tyre is not maintained in such condition as to be fit for the use to which the vehicle or trailer is being put or has a defect which might in any way cause damage to the surface of the road..." I'm sure an inventive officer could come up with a few more offences, depending on how the initial conversation went...

Well, a bad coil pack is not the only possible cause of a misfire. You need a better mechanic than me to advise you further though.

I believe there is no coding as long as it is the same unit with the same part number. If you have a VW dealership anywhere near you, it might be worth speaking to the technical team to confirm this.

@DeanVRS20VTThank you very much Dean for your reply and input. My initial thought was that after they programmed the transmission after its reconstruction that something went wrong with the 'programming' that caused this. Seeming as it was fine before the repair and now like this after the repair. I thought this because when you turn it on, for very brief milliseconds, I see the gears displayed as before, and then change to the current all highlighted display. Will search in the pinned useful parts thread to see if I can find out the part number of the small display. Just to confirm it is only soldering that is required, nothing needs to be reprogrammed, is this correct? Thank you very much for your help,

I'll get the mechanic to take some pics and send them to me. £1500

Looks like a bad LCD display, these do go wrong over the years. They can be replaced with another screen and someone who is good at soldering.

thought i would update this, replaced the dab aerial base, all fine now what a pain to change

Nope longest drive shaft and they were a Y rating so 186mph

Hi all, just for those who have this issue now, it happened to me a couple of years ago, my Skoda dealer used a "goodwill matrix" and paid 75% of my bill. My dealer is Barlow Motors Skoda, Newcastle Under Lyme.

You mention stress marks on both sides could they be result of torque , is it the wheel with the shortest drive shaft. What is the speed rating of the tyres.

Unfortunately you must have been ripped off. I didn't compile my first database until February, 2018 which is when I purchased my Skoda Octavia. I have never put my database on eBay and I would never do so. It's totally against my principles. I get my database from another forum for free and I would never make money off someone else's generosity. I just take the time out to adjust them and recompile them for the MIB2 Skoda/VW infotainment units. I don't post them elsewhere. I only offer them on this forum and they are absolutely free to the members who want to use them. I would never ask for any payment or a donation of any kind and I will continue to do so as long as possible. I do have an eBay account but I only buy items. As far as I can remember I have only sold 1 item and that was about ten years ago. It was a second hand heater motor for a Vauxhall Vectra - my previous car. My actual eBay username is Biggerade1 as I think the name bigade1 had already been taken. I appreciate you pointing this out to me but it's definitely not me. Thanks though.

So, an original from Skoda is $369. I just paid rego, so ready $ are little scarce. In the mean time I have created my own. After 800km its holding up quite well. I might have to add some eva foam for sound dampening. Coreflute Coreflute melts at 170deg My oil temp has never risen over 110deg My engine (water?) temp appears steady at 90deg I bent a strip of aluminium to keep it off the sump and give some rigidity Thats the line of screws down the centre It wont protect the engine from another kangaroo (or will it?), but it will go some way to at least keeping winter road grime out of the engine bay. total cost $24

Mine are still working with no issues

Very minor and very boring job today. I had some free time and thought the pedals looked dull so I took them off and took them apart to give them a good polish. I used some meguiars nxt metal polish with my knockoff dremel and spent a while buffing the pedals. For not a lot of effort I think they came out good! Very easy to separate the metal from the rubber and that made it incredibly easy to just put the metal parts in the vice and Polish away!

Don't forget that depending upon when you are travelling, you may need a UK sticker.

Just a couple of pics of my (finally fitted) new ARB. I have changed the fixing to the softest position (towards rear of car).

I would have to agree that if you ignore/disable all the irritating tech the car drives very nicely (I've a 2.0TDi), nippy and handles well, a little better than my previous Superb which was comfy but gentle! Efficient too - I don't have driving modes (that I've found) but with long drives and using the ACC I'm getting high 60 low 70 mpg between fills.

As ,long as the outside is ok sealed behind the rubber and the piston slides ok, just clean it up a bit with a wire brush etc taking care not to puncture the seal.

First time I've seen one of these close-up (came right to the edge of the water)

I've just had to replace the tailgate badge on my Yeti (recent thread in that section has links to a couple of You Tube videos). It's recessed and I haven't got any specialist tools for lifting trims etc. but found I could force a plastic plant label under the edge of the badge and slide a screwdriver over this to lever off the badge - the plant label prevented any damage to the paintwork. The double sided tape left behind then just peeled off in one piece with gentle, sustained pulling. It turned out to be a much easier job than I feared!

Yeah you can do that too. Or given the time of year, leave the car sitting in the sun for a while. It doesn't need to be super hot but having the bodywork warm to the touch does make life easier. Let it cool back down before you go about using whatever you have to remove any glue though.

Yes and no. For many years ACEA have lumped petrol and diesel specs together and many OEMs did the same (for example VW insist that 504 00 is always given with 507 00 so for a petrol engine using longlife engine oil you get the diesel cover thrown in), although in recent years we are seeing them diverge again as efficiency and emissions demands drive oil specificity for the best outcome. But for the engine and oil in question here - yeah, it's fine! It's a 5W-40 too, so you may lose a decimal point on fuel economy but it will soothe the older engine nicely. 5W-40 is permitted under the specs that the car demands (it is included in 502 00).

Motor oil for diesels is better than needed for petrol engines, it'll get it nice and clean inside as well.

OK, first things first - the car will be fine. Next, some more details. VW used to allow the bundling of 505 00/505 01 and 502 00 together but a few years ago adjusted the specifications to separate the 502 00 away from 505 00/505 01, hence why you see a change to the product data sheets. Note the publication dates of the two attached above are April 2012 and August 2018 - always go with the newer one. 505 00 and 505 01 are specifically diesel engine oil specifications. 505 00 is higher ash (based on ACEA A3/B4) so is for pre-DPF engines, whereas 505 01 is lower ash (based on ACEA C3) for DPF-equipped engines. Worth noting though that 504 00 is a gasoline engine spec but is also reduced ash level and based on ACEA C3 (as it is always bundled with 507 00). 505 01 is a more robust spec than 505 00 and includes protection for PD engines, so is a robust oil and, if anything, over-engineered for the OP's Fabia. Knowing what I know I would have a word with the workshop as to why they put a diesel-specified oil in a gasoline engine to see how they react, but I'd do it knowing that the engine was fine and I'd have no qualms about leaving it in there.

For the bit sitting on the door, it simply lifts up.

Which, could be argued, proves the 5 year change as unnecessary