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Couple of recent photos taken with the roofbox fitted, ready to swallow up all the gear we 'need' for our family trips

And…. Finally. Coilovers and brake kit install. Needs to set up properly but this is kinda off a endless project so… oem wheels? Forget it. Must use some 5mm spacers to clear this right. Overall pretty satisfied with the brakes. Less unsprung weight, feels “playful” Rubs a little on certain situations but as I said. Still needs to weight/corner balance the car. parts bilstein B16 coil kit. (A1 8x / polo Gti 6R) powerflex upper strut mounts vw shock bearing 034 motorsport spacer 5mm racingline VWR65P1GT brake kit Goodridge rear brake line

I was once told by a dealer that for a particular model, target was only 1 per quarter, I think it was the Rapid. Probably a similar thing with Scala in they don’t need to sell many so if already reached negligible quota aren’t interested. Rather encourages people to go to car broker or car wow rather than visit nearest dealer and not be valued as a potential customer.

I can certainly take some for you when he's back for you mate, nothing left of it police wise just a lot of holes and trace of the police stickers on rear windows, wouldn't mind seeing it in its hay day, love detail you've gone into on yours glad i found the post👍

Can you please re-take this picture with that bit clean or photoshop the dust out or use the duster on that bit

-1.54 degrees of camber

Hi @J.R.... The image linked below should help. They are widely spaced at the edges of the bore and slightly angled but definitely two per cylinder...

Another piece of original police equipment sourced and fitted. It's the steering column mounted PTT (push to talk) button, made by a company called Sepura. Its used in conjuction with a mic and when pushed it allows the driver to speak on the cars police radio. (the mic should also mount on the shroud where the small white square is in the picture) The original mounting holes were still in the steering column shroud and lined up perfectly with my replacement

Our Octavia was collected last Tuesday two weeks after placing the order. So far all is well. The tyres are relatively low-profile (225 45 R18) but the suspension design gives a limousine ride. Very quiet in both hybrid and e-drive, but the pedestrian warning 'squeak' is not very obvious. Fuel consumption is excellent: on a 29-mile drive it returned 104 mpg, on a 76-mile drive when the battery was down to 2% at the end it returned 91mpg. A 16-mile drive using battery alone used 60% of the battery power at a cost of £1.30. I'm changing to Octopus Go energy, once we have a SMETS2 smart meter, so I can charge between 00:30 and 4:30 at an off-peak rate of 5p per kWhr, so a 2/3 full battery would give around 20 miles for 65p. It charges using a 13-amp socket, but before ordering it and realising it could be charged without a wall box, I made enquiries and was annoyed on behalf of owners with bigger charge requirements that the grant is now only available if the vehicle can travel for at least 70 miles without any emissions. The many menus are logical and though during handover it made my head spin, a couple of hours ploughing through the options made it all clear. MySkoda works well, but it was a pain to set up. Only when I uninstalled and reinstalled the App did it work properly. It's much more useful than Skoda Connect in our Karoq, which I used once, because I can control charging and pre-heating the car from inside the house. Regenerative braking is also useful as I have it set to maximum, which as well as charging the battery, hold the car back on hills so a little interplay between accelerator and brake holds the corrrect speed, whilst approaching junctions the brakes are hardly required. Very pleased so far, particularly as we live in a very hilly part of the UK. Based on brimming the tank and keeping a spread sheet, our Karoq averaged only 31 mpg during the time we kept it, so all local motoring will now be pure electric.

It is possible that it is from the plastic housing that the coolant sender sits in, they do fail from old age from time to time. The best plan as has been said is to get a pressure test of the system, which should show it's origin. Hope it helps, good luck.

that could he from anywhere tbh... i had a pinhole leak in the radiator of my last car (inshi7nia) that 3 mechanics and i, including a main dealer, failed to find for aaaages. it was big enough to let the coolant out, but it mostly evaporated away quick enough to be near impossible to spot. it could be the coolant header tank too, have been known to split. or any of the many hoses in the system. or your water pump if its been a while since last change..

There is no KZX gearbox on the Superb, there is however a KXZ. All manual gearboxes used on the Superb 2 are type 02Q, so it is possible any gearbox of that type could fit the bellhousing and mounts,. But it's not that simple once you start looking at internal construction. Each engine gets a unique set of gear ratios and final drive ratios, plus separate assignment for 4x4 versions where they exist. Up to the model year of your car only two gearbox codes are assigned to the 170 TDI, the KXZ you have and the earlier KNY. Both have the same gear ratios and final drive ratios and should be interchangeable. I don't have a later revision of the gearbox service manual handy, so I can't say if there are later 'boxes with the same gearset. I think I have them downloaded on another PC - I'll check later.

The equivalent to a woman’s hair grip. all of sudden they’re everywhere 😁

Thanks, you’d think someone who’d been working on cars, (hobby only) for 60-ish years, including installing radios, would be able to do this. But no! I did try this, and one side came out, but I must have put the other in slightly crookedly, as it didn’t work. I finally did it by sliding an even thinner feeler gauge on top of the proper tool to get it out.

Here are some part numbers for you. https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/octavia/oct/2005-252/1/133-133029/

I'm not disagreeing with your advice, but I didn't get additional components installed and didn't have any VCDS programming. Mine tows a 1420kg caravan without issue.

Nice to know another one is still on the road. Do you have any pics of it now or when it was in service?

The wires from the stalk/switch go to the steering wheel control unit. The steering wheel control module will then send a CAN message to the BCM asking it to activate the rear wiper. The long coding helper will help explain the long coding Just for fun, I'd try disconnecting the main battery for a while to see if that helps reset things...

My dad has an ex police white vrs estate think it was from Devonshire police, didn't feel as quick as my mk1 saloon and the Elegance estate 1.8t4x4 I'm driving at the moment seems quicker top end (i may just have a heavier foot and feel braver driving my own car) but even with him behind wheel it still don't feel like there's anything extra there.

Thanks for this. Will get ordering.

Same here - from 1986 when I was 18 I worked as a sponsored student at Dowty Group, moving between various machine shops / draughting teams and production control teams and then at 22 started as a highway engineer again spending a lot of time on draughting machines until CAD took hold in the mid 90's. Somewhere I've still got some of the A0 drawings of the mining roof support I did in 1987 for the No 7 longwall face at the Bevercotes Colliery in Nottinghamshire - the GA for that was on my wall for quite a while at one stage! I still do a fair bit of drawing and sketching to get info across (but mostly A3 sketching now) and have even worked through an 'Understanding Architecture Through Drawing' book to help improve my abilities.

That looks decent! I don’t know why they charge so much extra for black, it’s just a different colour anodising that’s all. I’m getting a petrol blue car which will have silver rails so I’m leaning towards silver which will be a better contrast to the darker paint and match the rails too. Black is definitely best on the VRS and lighter paint colours.

Positive and encouraging. That's my motto all the time too. @D.FYLAKTOS believe me or not but your signature has became an inspiration for me. I want to call my car "Trusty" too. That's not just a name. You earn it.

Hmmm………I’m not convinced - if that was true it’d stop much quicker.

That may just be the only/real problem. Make sure you find that current drain if you can measure one, otherwise any battery you fit is going to have its effectiveness and lifetime badly compromised. Quick and dirty parasitic current measurement - Handy Topics & Guides - BRISKODA

The MySkoda app is pretty useless I have the same headunit/firmware in my 2018 vRS. At least for me, it can show fuel level, odometer, time til service and that's about it. It used to show service history but Skoda removed it. I think the paid for service gets a little more and the OP might be in their free period? I use AndroidAuto almost every journey but it never updates any info in the MySkoda app. The only time I've had it update is when I manually force the headunit to connect to my home wifi and sit there for 10 minutes. That's despite the car being parked in wifi range every night... Skoda/VAG do a carstick to give the car it's own LTE/3G connection which may help it stay online and update the info. However, given there is only one USB port and it won't let you use a normal USB hub, it doesn't feel that helpful if you use AA/CarPlay.

You don't need WLAN for Android Auto to Work. Your phone logs in to your Skoda account. A USB connection to Android Auto provides the vehicle connectivity/feedback. The WLAN feature allows you to login in to the Skoda online services which have to purchase separately. This provides POI, traffic, weather etc. A quick search revealed other users having issues with the Pixel 4a and Android Auto.

No idea I'm afraid. The wiring for the rear wiper is pretty simple and the washer pump is the one for the front wash but used in reverse. It'll be similar to this (maybe different colours depending on year): Not sure what signals the BCM uses to control the wiper/washer but maybe take a look with a multimeter when you do the output test and when you the wiper stalk? Do you have any other faults? - I think you've replaced the ignition switch? - Did the rear licence plate lights error get cleared? - What about 00323 - Vehicle Inclination Sensor (G384) ?

I think is it at least 3 years so you should be covered.

If the measuring blocks show the switch is working and the output tests let you activate the washer, it feels like everything should work... I think the rear wiper coding is in byte 21, yours looks to be 6D which seems sensible enough - assuming I can count The only thing that springs to mind is a dodgy boot switch or something like that...

Let me know your VIN on PM and I will list options you have.

Button to "0" kills all lights fully, not what the OP wanted, you can't turn the rears off separately, Time to trade in child with one less inquisitive or connect them to a dynamo to charge daddy's flat battery...

ACC uses both front and rear brakes in the same way as you would using the footbrake. Rear brake wear problems are mainly down to very poor quality discs and pads. I also suspect the rear brakes (in my case the nearside) dont always release completely, possibly due to over eager self adjustment or not very good at sliding caliper. A search on this forum will find much posted on the rubbish discs with many having to change at very low mileage. If changing discs and pads its highly recommended you avoid using skoda oe or their four plus parts which is what they will fit. As ACC is unaffected by what gear you are in, there is nothing to stop you changing down gear if you want some extra engine braking. Not much engine braking available on my 1.4tsi regardless of gear/engine speed especially when it goes into eco/ 2 cylinder mode on the overrun.

Ah yes! I didn't want to complicate things by mentioning that the steering wheel controls should work too - plus I didn't know if was left or right! Glad you found it and its working for you.

Luckypants; I have discovered that by turning the left hand silver coloured wheel on the steering wheel, the volume can be increased and it then remembers that setting for the next call. Pity that information didn't make the Handbook !!!

Try turning the front roof lights to the off position (O) it may disable all roof lights including the rear as it does in my Superb iirc. A deeply discharged battery can often be rescued by recharging immediately with an external charger provided not too much time (days) have passed, and the battery was previously in fairly good condition.

You're well into @langers2k territory with that last screengrab, I have no idea about long coding.

The stop and start is there for one reason,the environment.

Meteor grey VRS with aftermarket wheels and painted callipers 😁😍

My English...it is no good yes??? What I meant to say was lack of traction.

All check your PMs

Given the amount you're topping up, if coolant is getting into the oil, I'd expect a white mayonnaise like substance to be visible on the dipstick and oil filler cap. If the oil still looks like oil, it's much more likely to be the common coolant pump or regulator housing issues and it's just a coolant leak. Have you got the car booked in for investigation and repair?

I have a thing for Lemforder.... Wishbones Ball joints Top mounts with bearings Dog bone (w/new bolts) Just waiting on the new suspension and, hopefully, it'll stop sounding like a knackered bed.

The Thule Aerobars are well worth the expense, I have them for my estate.

Not too sure why you’d want to buy from eBay when you can download them for free. Check out the links in my signature.

I've had this happen twice, first time it was a faulty parking sensor and second time it was a faulty ABS wheel speed sensor. You need a fault code scan (with e.g. VCDS) to know what the cause is.

Must be the day for Race Blue Metallic Enyaqs... Collected today. Dealer stock 60 Loft model I decided to take, so not the perfect spec, but close enough. Drive Basic. Drive Assistance Plus. Convenience Plus. 100kW charging. Light and View Basic. Parking Basic. Climate Basic. Got 3.6 miles/kWh on the way home, which I thought was OK given the aircon on strong and a climb over a 1,400 ft hill to get here. Mind you, the regen on the way back down was good! I thought I'd leave half the plate showing as getting one beginning DC seemed appropriate for a first electric car. Can't seem to get the "foot waving" boot to work reliably yet, but will persevere. Wish I could get the driving data onto the cockpit - would fit nicely into the right hand segment when not using satnav and allow me to scroll through the values like on the rest of the Skodas using the right thumb-wheel, but otherwise most things seem to make sense. Got stuck for a while behind a tractor in a small queue, so enabled the ACC and Driving Assist and it practically drove itself along the road, which was entertaining. The pACC seemed to do well too once I was free - slowed down fine for upcoming bends - probably something that works better on rural roads. Not yet tackled the charging - a few more days until my PodPoint is installed. And I wish I'd known you only got one umbrella (but oddly, still the passenger slot for one). I'd have kept one from my previous Kodiaq!

Then just buy some woofers and a base bin like the other chavs.

Picture of the cars calibrated Speedo, only found fitted on the police cars.