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I think it's like this: Air is either drawn from the cabin (left blue arrow) or the outside (right blue arrow). It'll then follow the green arrows, down to the fan, through the filter (front to back) and finally through the heater matrix/AC evaporator and into the cabin Edit: Just for clarity, when I say front to back, that's based on the image above. When in the car, it'll push air from the rear of the car towards the front. As you drop the filter down, the collected crud will be on the side facing the rear of the car

Not just the same, but I changed at the start of July from a 2.0T 220BHP Superb sportline to the 1.5Tsi 150 bhp Kodiaq.. Due to lockdown I had never actually driven a kodiaq or a 1.5l engine.. I was worried about the loss of power and moving to a bigger car. But I can say after 2k miles it's been great.. it has enough power driving about and tows our caravan with no issues..

As I'm having the common navigation problem regarding it not saving my home address or any other addresses/last locations, I have been using Google maps. At the weekend I went up to the Peak District, and found out by chance that if you have route guidance on in Google maps but with the announcements turned off, the the next instruction is shown on the virtual dash in much the same was as the Skoda nav does. It only works however, when you have the route guidance on either side of the virtual dash, as in inside the speedo or rev counter, it does not pop up at the top like with the Skoda nav (apart from when you first scroll to route guidance it seems to pop up briefly) Thought this might be of some use to those that weren't aware 👍🏼

Following advice on this forum I changed the cabin filter. I used a Bosch r2543 which fitted perfectly (activated carbon). Cost under £11 delivered and 5 minute job. I have a 2016 1.4tsi.

The filters are used in many vehicles so although it fits a LHD Yeti, it may also be used in RHD variants of other vehicles and therefore available. LHD Yeti: https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/jzw819653b-cabin-odour-filter-bosch-21702.html RHD Yeti: https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/1k2819653b-cabin-odour-filter-skoda-36005.html RHD part with the arrows pointing up: https://www.theskodashop.co.uk/products/skoda-pollen-filter-1k2819653b

The ETKA diagrams covering RHD and LHD systems are the same, and both show the LHD orientation, though obviously the part number differ where asymmetries exist. The airflow path is a bit counterintuitive, I think, sketched in in scruffy red arrows here: So it does appear to go forwards through the filter towards the engine bay, but only as a 'wiggle' in the bigger picture! The marked up '2' of the part number would be a 1 for the LHD part. That's a common way that asymmetric parts are differentiated.

I initially test drove a 220 Superb SEL Estate and when I put my foot down, joining a dual carriageway, the wheelspin was crazy. That same evening I found a black 280 Superb L&K Estate after looking for a 4x4 model, not realizing it was such a wolf in sheep's clothing when I took it for a spin. The performance is like nothing I've ever owned and I have not looked back since I purchased that one. The amount of standard kit on the L&K was well worth paying for. I would advise driving both of them and decide which one you feel you would rather live with.

Update as I started the thread nearly a year ago. Following my original post, my daughter discovered that she was expecting twins and two lovely little boys have been born to add to the two small children they already have. In the end, they decided to keep their Ford Kuga, and have fitted a 4-seat Multimac. It all works fine.

Hi everyone, Here's my first post for my first Skoda! I bought this today to be used as my daily/practical vehicle whilst I'm also on the hunt for something for the occasional track day. I was looking at all kinds of estates to fill this role, but none interested me with the budget I had, and I then came across this black mk1. I've always been a fan of the mk1 vrs my uncle owning a yellow saloon many years ago (probably brand new at the time) and I loved it! This one is a little older now and currently sitting at 114k with plenty of history and invoices, after a test drive and a thorough looking over it's mine! It's not mint, to be expected of the age of course but I have set aside some cash to work through some of its issues and improve things where possible. * Missing rear centre head rest * Slight damage to rear bumper * Slight rust under o/s/r door window rubber * Slight rust to o/s/f wheel arch * New Skoda badges front/rear and also alloys * Cracked in o/s/f indicator lens * Crack in o/s/r brake lamp * Centre console lower ash tray mechanism faulty * Glove box lid is marked and scratched * Cup holder by hand brake permanently open and won't close * Needs new floor mats urgently, to try and keep the grey carpet clean... * Due an interim service * Needs new wipers front and rear * Needs a set of decent halogen bulbs (nightbreakers) * Vibration through steering wheel under hard braking (discs and pads) * 16" wheels fitted thinking the 17" wheels would look better? * In urgent need of machine polishing and proper detailing session * Finally will look into some basic modifications to eek out a little more performance, sound and handling Any help or advice would be most appreciated, Cheers Rob.

Perhaps I am a little younger, but I certainly have enough grey hairs (and a bit less of it!) to tell anyone who looks at me that I am over 40... and surely eligible to at least hold associate membership of the illustrious old fart club. On a more serious note, all the advice and wisdom from many years of experience is very welcome - no problem at all; we all need motoring dads. Nonetheless, being able to plant one's right foot from standstill without a care should be a given in a performance car with auto transmission and 4WD. I've had enough of them in the last 23 years to know by feel when something's not right. Driver training, lower speed fun and so on are all good points and well noted (although I'm obviously a driving god anyway ). My priority for now will be fixing the car I've already got... and maybe mentioning more of about the Fabia!

Registered - December 2012 (62) Colour - Red Options - Spare Wheel, Mats, Sunroof, Parking Sensors Future Mods - Cruise Control, Maxidot, Amunsden+ and Stage 2 Remap

I can now proudly say, I own a 62 plate 1.6 TDI CR (105bhp) Monte Carlo

LB?

Just a polite reminder, since the post's a few pages back, it's only a couple of mm between success and failure with this adjustment. It's easy to go too far, and the boot locking is crucial. It was easier on my old Octy where the rubber bump stops basically screwed into the hatch. These "ratchet" stops on the Karoq are a step backwards IMO.

If you get a note of the cars VIN number you could enter it into the My Skoda app* and see what comes up for service history. If that doesn't work I'm not sure how you get it. Maybe contact Skoda UK and ask them. *Free download in Google play store and Apple app store. Hopefully someone with more knowledge will pop up with a better solution.

You can probably take a set apart and service them, instead of replacing. Rebuilding Hydraulic Lifters - YouTube

Mileage looks fine for its age, the 1.4 TSI is a good engine and it's a nice looking car but you need to know about its previous ownership and service history before deciding anything.

This is something I bang on about all the time - but also from a safety point of view, tyres are a very complex and important component on a car (way ahead of the engine in priority, but most components and systems are too). Tyres effect the braking, steering, suspension, handling, road holding and comfort and noise of the car. Unless things have changed with different materials used this is a NO, NO! You should have been told to take it easy on the tyres for the first 100 miles or so (200 if wet) as tyres are can be 'greasy' (forget the correct word) from new plus you need to get used to the new tyre's characteristics. They also (used to) tell you to check the wheel nuts (horrible bolts on these) for tightness after about 30 miles. Remapping reduces the margins put in by the manufacturer for the very varied use the car will get though all sorts of conditions so can be more wearing on the car, more care, attention, maintenance, servicing, parts, consumables and their quality may be required, insurance to be notified. Similarly to a car being driven hard all the time. I'm not against spirited driving, I encourage it where suitable, and certainly occasional Italian tune-ups may be needed even more by modern cars. Just because there are no error codes showing doesn't mean information isn't showing deeper, a proper VW scan with live data on a run might point to things to investigate. I've never driven an S3 only passenger'd in (a new) one about 5 years ago but having driven my wife's Fabia I'd say there must be something wrong as I don't feel the Fabia SE 1.2 TSI chassis is particularly 'sporty' and should easily be shown up by a S3. I get the feeling you're probably a few decades or more younger than me so have different experience and attitudes so may not agree with or like my old fart advice but it's here anyway. Do not rely on the car's electronics, use your own computer first, what's between your ears, you can prevent problems and issues on the car before it needs to warn you about them or tell you when it's already too late. With driving you can get the car into more trouble sometimes than the car's computers can fully prevent or rescue you from. Don't worry about how high you can get the speedo and rev counter needles or numbers it's all about how it feels not ego numbers, the better it feels at lower numbers the better for everyone and everything. Unless you're in adverse conditions, in which case you'd be going slower, the 4WD, only helps you go too fast for any good road feel, you could get better feel from lower speeds without it. The speed limit on single-carriageways is 60 mph, where's that on the S3 dial (or even Fabia). James Hunt a F1 Champion used to drive an old Austin A35 slow very low powered van (Wallace & Gromit van) for a few reasons but got a lot of fun out of driving it in a very spirited way, it's not all about what you've got but how you use it. Now here a bit most men don't like, and this from a man who isn't a good driver - one of the very best tuning aids for any car is driver training, and you can transfer it to each car without cost or hassle and may decrease rather than increase insurance premiums. Most men will think they're already good drivers and some will be (not me) but can improve with this investment. Wheelspin is generally the driver's loss of control over his vehicle, not driving to the conditions or anticipating road conditions, if you've got unexpected wheelspin because you're driving too fast or road conditions you'd slow down - if you weren't driving too fast and it's a fault of the vehicle or its computer systems then it really needs sorting. I bet that's upset a few (many Fabia?) readers.

Lol good to see he hasn’t changed one bit. Is your Fabia still running well with the gtb1756 on Duck? Mine snapped it’s cambelt a couple of years ago :( JRJG

Thank you, very well explained! I'll change them out as soon as the new bulbs arrive

That's legendary - I've always ignored that choice in the virtual dash but now I will be using it! I can't believe we have to find this stuff out by chance though, it would be nice to have it properly documented.

I don’t keep them on because I can’t stand the noise they make all jangling together and scratching up/damaging the very expensive car key!!

That looks fantastic.

The rubber is not that streched. It is fine. You can run daily or long trips with no problem, even on circuit. They don’t come out of the wheels, if that is your concern 😊

Thanks for all the advice. I think I've found the source of the leak. After removing the off-side rear light cluster I spotted a crack in the bodywork - I've indicated it in pics 1 & 2. Looks like the water tracks through the hollow section at the rear of the car and enters the boot via the cable mounting point I've indicated in pic 3. I'm unsure how the crack got there. I've filled it with non-setting mastic and will visit a main dealer to get warranty advice.

Is that on behalf of yourself and the rest of the 1%?

It's not too severe, but also as you say not for everyone. I remember many an argument on here years ago when I was running 195/40/17 on an 8.5j rim and 185/35/17 on a 7.5j rim on my mk1 fab vrs . . Never had any problems at all. . Once did a 500 mile round trip in a day on them too.

The seat belt real is behind the seat cover. You can get to it from the boot. The real is right at the top. If your seat belt moves a little put silicone oil onto the belt and let it go back. It might loosen and unwind easier.

The only credible part of that article/statement is the bit about sacrificing Octavias for other models. If you substitute "unstarted" for "unfinished" then its probably truthfull. They might produce & store cars that cannot be shipped or sold to keep the production & supply lines running but they sure dont push even one let alone 400000 immobile vehicles off the line to put them in storage & then have someone pull them apart either in a muddy field or transport them back to the factory to pull apart & fit all the missing electronic modules then feed them back into the line for the testing regime. The whole manufacturing process is designed around a "Just in Time" suppy chain, when something runs out the line stops. Complete fantasy & doesn't say much for the journalist.

In one case that i had a similar problem (the brake pedal was stuck in the low position on traffic lights) they told my that i had to buy a used one because there aren't any original or OEM parts for my Felicia. I didn't knew that brand, thanks for the information. Almost everything can be repaired but it's 100% positive that the ''hiss" comes from the drum? Alone you can do anything,at least 2 persons must be involved, you in the pedal and the other on the engine bay because the source of the noise maybe it's a hose leak (happened to my case). As for the clutch wire you should do some tests static and then few blocks around the repair shop before pay him and leave although he must have done this before deliver the car to you. It's a common question here in Greece to the mechanics: ''you have tested it?" and if he says ''No" then ''Go and do it now".

First of all I congratulate you for having the time, money (not that much, I know) and passion to repair the car. The satisfaction is huge indeed. Keep on going and eventually you'll have a reliable car. Even if it will not be perfect, the extra mechanical experience will help you in the future. Skoda Favorit/Felicia are best cars to learn on. Not too simple, not too complicated, just enough to know the basics of all cars. Now let's get to work: Yes. Have a friend press the brake and find the source of the hissing. Use a stethoscope for mechanics or something similar.

they didn't incliude the USB on the Enyaq but it is really easy to fit yourself. The glovebox is easier to remove than on an Octavia and you can wire it in to the fuse box in about 15 minutes no problem. If you want to see how look up ID3 dashcam hardwire in youtube. The Enyaq ID3 and ID4 are basically the same in terms of the fuse box

Added some SuperSkoda badges and some DSG paddle extensions... and ordered some H&R Lowering springs!!

Your car should still be under a Skoda 10 year anti-corrosion warranty. Paint and Body Warranty All new vehicles supplied by SKODA Auto are provided with a three year unlimited mileage warranty against defects in the paintwork. Any manufacturing defect in the paint finish or application should be reported to an appointed SKODA retailer or Authorised repairer where it will be rectified at no cost. In addition SKODA Auto are pleased to provide an anti-perforation warranty for a minimum of 10 years (please refer to your owners manual for specific details). This offers assurance that any defect in the corrosion protection applied to body panels, that results in perforation corrosion is rectified at no cost.

To the OP - @Damobeach - is this a problem relating to a MK1 (as in your profile label) or to a MK3 (if so, could you update your profile please)? Many thanks

These work really well. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B015AOGP1S

Not as much as STP would get from you doing so.

After the minimal front suspension rebuild when the coilovers were fitted, it was only a matter of time before I needed to do a proper job. The FK coilovers which had been on my Felicia 1.8T donor were always terrible, and they had deteriorated noticeably from that. They were mk1 Ford Focus parts, but I was led to believe that mk4 Golf (mk1 Leon, mk1 Octavia) front coilovers might also do the job. I bought an incomplete used set of AP mk4 Golf coilovers, but it was clear that the front damper diameter was too large for these to fit into the Caddy hub carriers without significant metal having to be removed, to the extent that the hub carrier may be substantially weakened. The mk1 Focus coilovers are smaller in diameter towards the bottom, so less metal needs to be removed. I was not keen to pay for a set of four coilovers and only be able to use the front pair, and eventually I found someone who was prepared to order just two rather than four coilovers from KW, although it was their cheaper brand AP which I went for. They arrived more quickly than expected from Germany, but when I opened the boxes they were obviously not a matching pair. KW were very apologetic, and dispatched the correct replacement straight away. The coilovers and a pair of hub carriers went off to my friendly local machine shop so the hub carriers could be machined to accommodate the coilovers and the larger mounting bolts for the ATE (Ford) callipers. My plan was to strip and rebuild both front and rear suspension at the same time, and to make this easier (and safer) I bought a scissor lift for the workshop. To get it under the Caddy I had to use four low-rise ramps, and then I had to put some ballast in the back of the pick-up because even with the scissor lift positioned so it was touching the front wheels, it was still the back that lifted when I wound the lift up. Initially I put the extra weight as far back as possible, then once I had the front of the Caddy at the desired height I shifted the weight forward so it was balanced and I could tilt it with one hand to get it level. Axle stands then went under the rear of the Caddy, the scissor lift tilt mechanism was locked, and I shifted the ballast again so there was some weight on the axle stands. Already I am convinced this scissor lift is a properly cool piece of kit.

I've got a tangerine Fabia estate that I need a bonnet and a wing for. I have found a wing from a 5 door hatch. Are they the same? I'd presume they would be, but would like to know for sure. Thanks.

Checked their other items for sale and no bonnet... :-( Thanks for that. I'd had thought that would be the case, but just wanted to check. A mate of mine is going to sort the bonnet for the cost of the materials, so I guess I'm also sorted with the bonnet.

...I'm supposing you asked the seller if they had the bonnet, too! Just FYI, the whole front end is the same for both estate and hatchback, including the front doors. I believe though, the rear doors are a different fitment. The rear lights match, too, despite the hatch being different!

Manual is called ELSA WIN, which covers all the VAG group cars, ie Audi, Seat, Skoda, VW. No doubt you will "probably" look for it, there is plenty of info out there regarding free download links, BUT they are often incredibly slow or just rubbish , crash halfway through and don't work and elsa win is atleast 6GB so not ideal. It is also, well how do I describe it, a PAIN to to install as its a network based program "hacked" to work on standalone PC's, so if your not atleast a little computer literate, I would not bother and you will see as many posts about installation issuses as there is about downloading. It also runs on a "virtual machine" within windows. I purchased mine on DVD from a well known auction site EDIT EDIT EDIT........... Just found that the russki's have also put this online now as well as other manuals i have used for years...................don't know where they get the time... https://www.kolhosniki.ru/elsaonline

Where it refers to seperator panel, that just means the closure panel between door and inner wing which you will see once the wheel arch liner is off / out.

Thanks for the comments. I cant see much info on the net about front wing replacement, but being a VAG car I'm presuming it's just bolted on as per the old MK4 Golfs?

Love the colour..............not seen that before...............!!

Yeah that is correct mines a 2008 as is the car the wing comes from.

Welcome. What age of Mk2 Fabia. Of pre face lift or post facelift the wings and bonnet of a Hatch or an Estate or the same age will fit. If you have found the match in colour that is good as long as a perfect match. What tangerine, is it the Metallic copper / orange kind of colour? Do you have the paint code? Or know the name Skoda gave at the time that was available? This colour? and 2007-2009 ?

I bought an exchange ECU for my 1.9 PD 105 which had been remapped to an alleged 145hp, it worked perfectly and changed the vehicle beyond all recognition, never missed a beat over a couple of years. My 2.0 CR Yeti was a 108hp and equally dangerous for mid range overtaking, I had a Celtic Tuning remap to an alleged 184hp and that again has transformed the vehicle. I think both of them were in fact the standard VAG 130 and 170 hp maps, they are just too good to have been done by a teenager with a laptop on a rolling road. Aside from probably not having the larger turbo both engines were available with a range of different power outputs to slot into emissions classes without any other modifications so it really makes sense to remap if your vehicle is lacking when it comes to overtakes. On both vehicles I frequently was caught out, they pull like a train low down & accelerate well in the lower gears but an overtake at 50mph requiring say 70mph at the end of the manœuvre could bring on a half crown threepenny bit moment!

if its the PD engine as in Mk1 vRS (not sure if it is)......then it should be fine for 130 +