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If you sold someone a used car as a private seller that was full of issues you would be called all the names under the sun. Seems like you can do it professionally as a dealer without being criticised, I mean a sales a sale isn't it. If they didn't pull the 'that's the first one we've heard of' line every time then maybe it would be forgivable but to sell a lemon with a smile on your face is a certain level of cretinous gouging savagery.

In one post you say dealers should be left out of this, in another you make it very clear the dealer is liable. If they're liable, they can't be left out of it. The point about this particular car being an ex-demonstrator is that it will probably have been used and driven several times, not just driven a few yards off the transporter into the showroom. Hence is possible the faults have already manifested themselves; and if they have, the dealer will know they do exist, and in that case the dealer is deliberately concealing actual (not potential) faults. That's all I am saying. I also acknowledge that the Octavia IV generally is prone to software problems, stemming from the design, testing, and manufacturing processes, and that's where the manufacturer is responsible for supplying faulty goods to the dealers.

A quick pic of my corrida red Sportline outside our holiday accommodation. It's a bit filthy after a 650 mile drive but it will get a good clean when we're back home 😀

My limo. 1.0 TSI

Being an ex-demonstrator has a lot to do with it. They've been running the car with several fairly obvious faults. is it likely none of them have occurred until Jamie82 took delivery? I don't think so. Also, whether they were apparent beforehand or not, in which case being ex-demnstrator is largely irrelevant, Jamie82's relationship is with the dealer, not Skoda UK. For instance, if you buy a washing machine from Curry's and it breaks down fairly soon (there are specified timescales) then it's Curry's liability in the first instance, not the manufacturer. Consumer Rights Act 2015.

Thanks FG and Irfant, I have now found the same subject queried further down the page. I should have scrolled down further ! It seems that the 2025 is the correct key, but 2032 will work, but is harder to put in the fob, as it's thicker. So it seems that the man on the spares desk at Furrows got it wrong.

The illusion that EVs are sweet, simple things with nothing to go wrong is amusingly covered here, around the 2-minute mark. Astonishing level of complexity compared to what I had imagined, in all honesty. Mach-E Thermal System Nightmare - YouTube I hope/expect there are simpler ones about.

Whilst this is still ongoing I wanted to take time out to thank you to the members of this community. When I posted this issue I only just had the accident. The speed at which members of this community responded and advised on what to do speaks volumes. So Thanks All

Escort and a Praga from this morning at Brands Hatch.

No. But are we counting deliberately unsignalled (because there is no-one to signal to) turns, and maybe a bit of straight lining as "wandering off line", because I don't but apparently "Lane Enforce Assist" does.

Not what I said; I said that wandering is an indication to me that I should take a break.

we walked to a safe start point, didnt have the same of time as the last day, so didnt go as far, but had longer playing on the embankment slopes at the park. is this strava art?

Absolutely 100% possible it could have been damaged. At the very moment I had the accident I went inside to check, chucked on the ACC and it picked up the car in front. Eventually when I drove away it was intermittentently picking up the car in front followed by completely gone. I can only imagine it had dislocated in the first instance and some more driving dropped it completely, picking up nothing but the bumper itself. Now imagine a broken bracket going at high speed, the force and just aging of the plastic it eventually gives so it suddenly drops.. which would result in the the message ACC unavailable or even the radar impaired.

Didn't someone smash that window trying to break in to your car and if so wouldn't the glass replacement (and the correct fitting of all of the glass trim and rubbers) be claimable on your car insurance glass breakage cover (for between £25 and £50 - depending upon your policy)

According to wheel-size.com 195/55R15 is a standard tyre size on the Fabia MK2 1.2TSI wheel-size.com often make mistakes, so see what the label says on the inside of your petrol flap. Maybe even take a photo of it. The label will tell you what the standard tyre sizes are and what the associated tyre pressures should be. Skoda Fabia 2014 1.2TSI – Generation: Mk2 (5J) [2007 .. 2014] – Power: 84 hp | 63 kW | 86 PS – Engine: 1.2L, CBZA, I3, Petrol – Center Bore: 57.1 mm – PCD: 5x100 – Wheel Fasteners: Lug bolts – Wheel Tightening Torque: unknown – Thread Size: M14 x 1.5 – Trim Production: [2010 .. 2014] Tire Rim 185/60R14 82H 6Jx14 ET37 2.2 / 2.1 195/55R15 85H 6Jx15 ET43 2.1 Skoda Fabia 2014 1.2TSI – Generation: Mk2 (5J) [2007 .. 2014] – Power: 103 hp | 77 kW | 105 PS – Engine: 1.2L, CBZB, I3, Petrol – Center Bore: 57.1 mm – PCD: 5x100 – Wheel Fasteners: Lug bolts – Wheel Tightening Torque: unknown – Thread Size: M14 x 1.5 – Trim Production: [2010 .. 2014] Tire Rim 185/60R14 82H 6Jx14 ET37 2.2 / 2.1 195/55R15 85H 6Jx15 ET43 2.1 https://www.wheel-size.com/size/skoda/fabia/2014/#trim-12tsi-eudm-103

Prices have risen yet again. Plugs are £105 and filters risen too. I wonder how will they keep profit margins with electric vehicles?

No it won't cause problems and will give you a bit more comfort to boot.

There has been near to 2 centuries to get the electric motors and hardware / engineering in cars to this stage. They can do it. Software is the issue and even decades on they keep coc-king that up, even the biggest car manufacturer in the world does it.

Big hint; in the UK the speed limit in roadworks tends to be somewhere between 50 and 80kph. Also. if I'm wandering to the edge of my lane it's a warning that I should take a break now.

Best suggestion is that the 'Skoda Dealer' or their employee gets on with taking the photos and passing onto Skoda UK and gets the go ahead for them to spend that much fixing the issue. It will cost them lots less than if you were paying for the job which you need not, and certainly mot need to DIY it.

It has been a while now, do we have anyone with r18 and lowering springs? please share pictures i am tempted to get Eibach kit but prefer to stay with r18 we have very poor roads

Great design for a single component doesn't make it a good EV. Sorry if it's too depth of an insight for you

Mine's a 2016 car too and it often does this when I'm driving up and down the hills through the Brecon Beacons or Epynt Mountain, depending on whether I head north or south from home.

At this moment I can only offer you to check this manual and page 10

You're not wrong there. Imagine if this was happening in a merger between 2 banks for example...

Its a very interesting radio option. I've been toying with upgrading from y Amundsen to a Columbus, but TBH this is much more aligned with what someone wants in a car today (namely, smartphone integration). Shame it has integrated bluetooth as that would likely cause issues with the bluetooth module already on my car. But either way, I think you have made a very smart decision replacing your Swing with that.

I've got the Whiteline ARB kit (Front, Rear, bushes and control arms) on mines from the Golf R. Most people go for the rear only which suit their needs. I had Eibach ARBs on my MK2 VRS previously and in comparing to the Whiteline's ARB, I would say the Eibach's felt stiffer. I prefer the WL ARBs tbh, they suit the Superb meaning they are softer however they have made a vast difference going round corners and it doesn't feel like a barge anymore!

Hi @ahenners, You’re welcome buddy! Mine was a diesel and did have the factory deadening mat fitted as standard. Remember that while your petrol will be quieter than a diesel, the bonnet is a large panel sitting right above the most vibraty(!) part of the car. It wasn’t just a reduction in engine noise I experienced, just generally quieter. With regards to yours and @srh007 ‘s comments, definitely do it warmer weather, and cutting big sheets down to smaller sections, especially when trying to wriggle around in the doors makes life a hell of a lot easier. It is a bit of a job, but if you’re methodical, it’s worth doing the side panels in the boot if you’ve done the floor. I must admit, I’m a bit OCD, and started chasing rattles and squeaks down all over the place - I ended up using hot glue on all the termination blocks in the doors to stop the pins rattling, anti-rattle tape on the climate control panel and ‘egg carton’ foam in the sunglasses holder to stop my sunnies from rattling…admittedly, the system could be played to rather uncomfortable levels without the car rattling itself to pieces 😅 Couple of tips if you take the doors apart and want to fit aftermarket speakers… Skoda use 6” speakers. The basket they’re built in has a drainage section to allow water to escape easily. I was suffering from loads of water ingress and couldn’t figure it out until I removed the 6.5” Focal Custom Fit speakers only to find pools of ice in the bottom of them! The baskets have a lip that doesn’t allow drainage like the standard speakers, hence the water pooling, and coming into the car. I cured it by cutting a small ‘V’ into both the baskets and doors (I painted the door cutout with Hammerite anti-rust paint, then put a thin bead of silicone sealant around the inner edge of the speaker hole and basket to prevent water from seeping into the car - it was gone dry after doing that. Secondly, don’t waste your time and money fitting updated speakers in the rear doors. The tweeter on the rear driver’s side door is closer to you than the front, and you just get weird imaging happening. I disabled the rear speakers completely and both time-aligned & EQ’d the front speakers for the driver’s position; the result was a focussed image in front of me, with a wide soundstage that sounded like it was not enclosed in the interior of the car - very much like a well dialled in hi-fi system 😊 Hope that helps, Nick

That's a Ford, bad engineering and inefficiency is expected. It's probably the worst EV attempt right now. From the same guy, the tech inside is laughable:

Thank you very much for your helpful reply. I really appreciate the advice and will absolutely add this to the list of jobs to do - and hopefully in this warmer weather! I can highly recommend applying the deadening to the front doors. It really did surprise me when I took the door card off just how little spud deadening had been applied at the factory… I suppose this is definitely one area costs were cut over the more ‘premium’ brands of VAG. It was a shame though as it was causing the Canton speakers to massively underperform. I found it really helpful to remove the door cards and then play some tracks on the stereo that feature plenty of low end. This then allowed me to pin point exactly where was vibrating and causing rattles. I found the two removable black plastic inserts (that allow access to the door skin) to be particularly bad for rattling. Hope it goes well if you do decide to take this on, and many thanks again for the pointers.

Hi @ahenners Glad you got the grommets sorted. Totally agree that all that work makes the front sound noisier (even though it isn’t!). I sound deadened the bonnet, which was very easy to do and also made a big improvement. I did all the flat sections and parts of the box frame that are hidden by the factory-fit sound deadening panel. If you do this, make sure you buy heat resistant deadening - I used Dynamat Extreme. I never got round to it, but also bought some sheets to do the front wheel arches, as I did the rears when doing the rear of the car. If you’ve not seen it, check out my thread on the stereo upgrade I did last year - it might give you some ideas of other areas you can attack to reduce noise…and it’ll remind you to disconnect the battery when doing any electrical work 😉 🙂 Cheers, Nick

I think it's their normal process to avoid the battery being dead, if the operation lasts a bit. I find this clever. One can only regret, that their process doesn't include a final step to set the "auto lights" back ON.

EA888 gen3 is a very different engine to the gen 2 fitted to the Mk2. AFAIK the Gen3 was not fitted to pre-MQB cars as it was not produced until 2013 I have had the gen3 180ps 1.8 TSI in mine for 5 years and it has not missed a beat, even driving the 4x4. I won't lie I'm glad mine has the DQ250 as I think the 1.8 is on the limit of what the DQ200 will handle but at least it will have the multilink rear suspension

Does this "tovarich" says good this for our engine or not? Did he said "za zdarovye" in the end?

Took me a while to start getting rid of the filament bulbs...

Welcome to the forum. Sounds a bargain if supplied, fitted, wiring / coding done and ready to rock and roll.

It'll be a vent temperature sensor, I should think? What's on the other side of the board? Look for a round hole that that o-ring will just jam into. Or a smaller hole that the board and the nearest white plastic will go into, possibly with some rectangular holes that the bayonet catches will go into; possibly a push in and twist to lock thing? o-ring may be a face seal rather than a radial seal.

Reality is what can be the problem. The Governments need to be assisting manufacturers build and sell more affordable EV's, and not encourage those that are building heavier and heavier Hyper EV's that in many cases are just lifestyle vehicles .

It is good that EV Technicians are now being trained to meet the demand in the future. Good if there is new blood into the Motor Trade and not just old hands & those already working as techs, mechanics or fitters but ones that will learn properly how to service, maintain and put vehicles out that are safe to be on the road.

Yep the dealers go to great lengths to make out that you’re a special case 😂. They know full well you don’t believe a word they say. I just straight laughed at them when they tried it with me. Waiting for VWFS to come back to me about my car, it’s still not fixed so as owners of the car I’m making it their problem.

The Factory figures are with 95 Ron. But then what shows as Max PS & Max Nm is actually what they will be as a minimum in Europe. You are buying them on the performance figures shown and no way should you be short changed in the UK where you will not be driving at more than 3,000 ft above sea level or in ambient temps more than 40*oC. There is no 98 ron on sale in the UK since BP went to 97 minimum and Shell, Tesco & Esso went to 99 ron minimum. VW never changed the Website for the UK, and when they say R & GTI which included the Polo GTI 1.4 TSI Twincharger with 98 (95) on the fuel filler Skoda had the same sticker on the Mk2 Fabia vRS. https://www.volkswagen.co.uk/en/need-help/need-help-faqs/fuel.html North America, South Africa, Australia etc which can have detuned GTI's / R's and different fuel grades (Ron & Mon) are obviously not in the EU / Europe.

I'm sure it'll be included soon. It'll just be another excuse for an expensive "options package " though !

VRSs are shipped only with two sizes of wheels. 18" are 225/45/18 and the 19" are 225/40/19. If I would be buying a VRS now, I would probably go with the black 18" wheels and used them as a winter set. For the summer set I would buy a new aftermarket set.

I can’t be the only person who doesn’t care about this, and simply uses the head unit as a display for CarPlay (or Android Auto, if you’re that way inclined!)?

Well I upgraded my radar, replacing it with a used 3qf version that supports pacc, did the component protection myself, and calibrated it myself. Total cost less than 100, plus a lot of my own time learning, thousands if I was paying for my own time 😂. So that's.. possible, if you're determined and a massively interested hobbyist. However in your situation, someone overly keen to avoid insurance can be a bit of a red flag. I fear you sound overly keen to help someone who's causing you grief you don't need or deserve, and that you may be leaving yourself open to being taken advantage of in this situation.

The 1.5 (like my 1.4) will have less torque, and do fewer mpg. End of downsides. It’s noticeably quieter, quicker to give you some heat on a winter morning, and - my main joy - you can nip to the local shops without worrying about EGR and DPF woes.

Yeah...fist time is a real pain in the arse.... TAXI....!!!!!!!....

Obviously a 100 / 100 + kW charger makes a difference to many when charging compared to a 50kW charger when a car can charge with 100 kW charger. My car gets charged on 50kW chargers and charges pretty quick mostly to 80% but that can be hit or miss at different chargers, and then it is less quick from then, and pretty slow from 95% plus. (Charged on 50kW or 22 kW chargers because that is all that is available, i would pay to charge quicker sometimes if chargers were available where i am at when charging is required.) It is a damn sight quicker to 80% when on a 100kW charger. This makes a big difference when on a journey and sitting about waiting to get going. 20 or 30 minutes is a big difference if like me charging is needed at least every 150 miles and you are going 300 miles plus. Currently with only 50kW chargers available i allow an extra hour for every 150 miles driven as getting on a charger is not guaranteed, and then time can be wasted messing about driving on to find an alternative charger. Then before continuing if away from home you might be with the vehicle still charging yet again. At least when the weather is very cold outside you can be dead toasty in the vehicle while charging and hopefully keep the windows from steaming up. Wind Deflectors so windows can be down in snow or rain are rather important if a driver or driver and passengers are going to be sitting in a car for maybe an hour or more charging.

They do look quite nice. I use them through the winter. Unfortunately I don't have any better pic. In Slovenia they cost around 15 EUR for a pair. Installation is quite easy. I manage to install all 4 without removing the tires.

I went from a 2015 1.4 to a 2018 1.5 and now a 2021 1.5. The performance of the older 1.4 and 1.5 were similar but the 1.5 was quieter. The 2018 1.5 kangarooed horribly at low speeds - the 2021 does not and is generally very smooth. However, the newer one is definitely higher geared, so it needs more shift downs to keep in the torque band - this makes it feel less powerful in day to day use: floor it in 3rd on a motorway slip and it's very brisk but try to increase from 50-70 in top and it's now sluggish whereas the previous cars just pulled away. This is because it's now running at <2k rpm at 70mph in 6th. I think the previous cars were closer to 2.5-3k at the same speed, but I can't really remember. I would say that the 1.4 was the better all-rounder engine, and linked with the 30-40 mile electric motor and an auto box seems like it would be a great combination.