Leaderboard

Some days the DIY doesn't go very well. Some days it all goes better than planned. Today was a good day in terms of maintenance for a small outlay. My passenger door lock had been making some strange noises of late. As some of you might be aware the car needs a new clutch and for various reasons beyond my control, it's been sat for over a month now. I always say that cars don't like being idle and if they feel neglected they'll cause problems. This week when checking that the car was okay the passenger door failed to open on the key fob. Bugger. I then tried to open it from the inside with no success and had visions of having to butcher the door card to get to the internals. I remembered a guide that had a hi-tech solution so tried that first before cutting things up. I hit the door on the handle and luckily it opened. I left the car unlocked for the rest of the week and ordered an ebay special lock mechanism. https://www.ebay.co.uk/ipp/151173095196?transactionId=2206303453005 I decided to fit the lock this morning and it didn't take too long. It was fairly straightforward and when connected it worked a treat. I have no idea how long it will last but there's a year's no quibble guarantee and at least the door works. Here's a couple of photos with the necessary bits swapped over ready to fit into the door. Because I then felt like mechanic of the year I decided to look into something that has been annoying me for some time. The OSR door hasn't worked off the fob since getting the car. I changed the lock mechanism last year and it didn't work. I figured that there must be a break in the wiring somewhere and found this. So, out came the soldering iron and a repair section of wiring. It was heat shrinked (is that a word - shrinked?) wrapped up in the correct tape and reconnected. I did a little happy dance on the drive when the door fired into life and celebrated with a coffee and biscuit. I now have four doors that open off the fob and a warm feeling inside knowing that it was all solved for £25.00. This will no doubt be cancelled out when I eventually get the car booked in for the clutch replacement and I'm left with a ££££ bill but for now I'm happy.

I switched on auto hold when I collected my Kodiaq and it hasn’t been off in the 3 years since. Short learning curve on feathering the brake pedal, to allow creeping and auto hold not cutting in is all it takes. Autohold and dsg are a great combination. As to the EHB, I think in 3 years I’ve used it once.

Just thought I'd post up my figures from yesterday. 244 BHP and 309 ft ld of torque with good curves on both. Engine has been mapped to Stage 2, has a 3" exhaust with sports cat and a K&N filter. Lots of other mods to the car, mostly for handling as I use it for track days mostly. Really happy with the results. Car feels very strong and still remains very drivable on the road. Picture of car is in the pit lane at Brands.

Well now - great work DM - I say NCT her ! Can't be too much they can shoot her down for ! Trick is to go for the last test of the day 2205 and arrive 45 mins early - that way the lads will be in a rush to get your car through and they can go home early !!

Exchanged the lease Yeti 1.4 TSI DSG Joy for a Karoq 1.5 TSI ACT Greentech DSG Buss Edition last Thursday. Exchange should have been early May, but it was postponed several times.

Short answer - yes. Using CarPlay to stream audio with Spotify and Apple Maps for navigation the wireless charger is sufficient. Enough power to charge my iPhone XR at the same time, albeit slowly. It seems the charger is no longer available though. A shame ‘cos it fits in the centre console space nicely.

I understand what you're saying but the high pressure side is contained by hard steel pipes which cannot leak except at the glands where they are connected, it's easy to check these for tightness with a spanner. No-one is suggesting fiddling around with the injectors while the engine is running, I simply suggested cleaning the engine bay up so that the leak can be spotted, I maintain that this is MUCH more likely to be on the low pressure return side which uses soft pipes as stated. There is no need to catastrophise and sound the safety siren at this stage. Suggesting the OP trailer the car to a garage is simply ridiculous, this is a self-help forum, let's find out more before getting hysterical.

Get yourself comfortable. Pour yourself a beer. And hit the search button ... You may be here a while.

Welcome to the forums!

Thanks for all the help

Final update on mine, ordered 08/09 February, being delivered tomorrow 04 October. Here's hoping I don't regret the left field colour choices after 8 months!

Couple of pictures here. Do sometimes check auto trader and barely seen any in my region (Norfolk) since I bought mine. I am happy with the vrs, like to think I did get a good deal but been such a funny year for used car market it’s hard to know.

I really could do with some more interior storage for maps, guides and my business note pad etc. The glove box is not deep enough for much and the seat back pockets are barely enough for one book. Has anybody found any underseat trays for the Scala? That would be ideal. I am sure I read a review somewhere when they were mentioned.

Manufacturing is so slow partly due to the pandemic, but mostly due to the worldwide shortage of computer chips. Dealers are low or have no stock as a lot of people are buying them up, rather than wait 6 months or more on a new order. Second hand prices are also at a record high as dealers struggle to get some cars for stock, and are paying premium prices.

I had mine 280 remaped to Stage 1 and TCU Stage 1, added intake hose and KN panel filter. Last night i did my best. 13c temp, 3/4 tank, worn 19" summer tyres, so it has slippage: 4.26 to 100km/h, 4.01 to 60mph, 15.59 to 200km/h, 11.33 100-200km/h, 12.37 1/4 mile I expect better times with 18" winter tyres. Before intake and filter I had better time with winter tyres compared to summer set. Adding those two mods decreased 0-100 for 0.1s and 1/4 for 0.07s. Still need to go on dyno, but I guess 370-380.

"expecting a hill start", yes, maybe. I'll give it a go tomorrow when I am out and about. It's cold at the moment and I don't want to waste fuel warming up.

Mine won’t be quite as rusty as yours, built week 29………..

I used the link you provided ( thank you) and it seems to have same circumference , don't know why I thought It was different. Anyway I think is ok as a spare wheel to be used on this car

Got three wheels rubbed down a bit and filler applied before I ran out of sandpaper. No harm leaving the filler overnight to set though. Only this wheel left to rub back and fill, probably second roughest out of the 4 as a lot of those kerb marks are quite deep. Don't really know how to sort the marks on the wheels where the paint has just come off, hoping if I sand it back it will be enough for some filler primer to fill them up?

Best sit next to the tyres on the car and see how it compares. Best try it on the car and be sure it is a 5 x 100 pattern that will fit, just incase someone stuck that in the car and it is the wrong fitment. IF YOU HAVE POSTED IN THE FABIA MK2 SECTION IN ERROR IGNORE THAT. ? IS IT AN OCTAVIA YOU HAVE WITH THE 16" RIMS & TYRES? It is a Spare Wheel / Tyre to use in an emergency. As many are, slightly different Circumference / Total Diameter from the ones on the car, slow down and treat it as an odd one out. If you have to put it on reset the TPMS when you do, then when the original is fixed or replaced check all pressures, set as you want and reset the TPMS.

That's not auto hold that's applying the brakes it only applies the brakes when you are stationary, what you refer to is either hill start assist or park assist .

I use Auto hold in most situations, except if I stuck in a line of traffic then I tend to use the handbrake, especially if it's night and raining, auto hold use the hydraulic system and this operates the brake lights so on a rainy night this can be dazzling for the driver behind, and if you check the Highway Code you will find it's an offence to dazzle someone, the handbrake doesn't activate the brake lights, and it does tease as you drive off.

On my car, Auto Hold will always activate on standstill, no matter how softly breaking I've come to it. I only switch Auto Hold off if I have to park most gingerly or when I park on level ground for a freezing night.

October has come. My car which was built on 24th week is probably rusty now.

You can definitely get used to 'Lane Assist' but there are other annoying features such as 'Take over control of steering ' which is very annoying and all these nonsensical things when no consideration of 'Reverse parking sensors on some cars has been made.

First thing I will do is get the battery checked.

The car has done 48,000 miles. The plugs were changed 2 years ago at 38,000 miles

@janewalker55 Autohold is great and locks the brakes on when stationary and in D or S and all is well. Engine running or Stop / Start having stopped the car. But if you put the Shifter into N then the Autohold will no longer be holding the car and you need your foot on the brake pedal or apply the e-Brake / Parking brake if it is not on automatically. The e-Brake is on or off and working on the rear wheels. Autohold has the 4 brakes operating and if the car moves it applies more pressure on the brakes.

How many miles has the car done? Were the spark plugs changed at the last Service. If they were changed does the invoice show what were fitted? You can get misfires that can cause the EPC light to come on and yet no misfire code logged because not enough in a cycle.

There were no historic codes and the car was only serviced 6 weeks ago. This was put on the diagnostic equipment at the main dealers. They told me they had road tested the car.

Also, if there's no proof then assume it hasn't be done

On older cars there was a correction procedure for the reserve limit but I have not seen anything similar documented for our cars. It involved draining the tank and refilling it with exactly 9 l of fuel then using an adaptation channel in the instruments to position the needle at the top of the red zone on the fuel gauge.

Thanks

https://www.carexpert.com.au/car-reviews/halogen-v-led-v-matrix-led-v-laser-headlights-compared-and-tested They recorded 93 lux at 50m on the Full Beam of Skoda Superb Matrix LED lights, which roughly translates to around 4600 lumens, so that would put the actual per headlight at around 2300 lumens.

Pull the indicator stalk down 😉 NB only works intermittently

Some bike testing going on today at Brands Hatch.

Superb 2 uses electric power assistance rather than hydraulic, so no fluid to be changed.

It's the little things, right? Had already replaced the bolt with a sparkly new s/steel one...

Discs are naff (guessing the rears), mine look bad but function fine but will change to brembo’s coated one as it’s painted a nice looking anthracite colour. DSG oil and filter changes at 40k

^^^ Which is the car holding the gear change to a high rpm. A kickdown or 2 in D should get the car shifting and then you can bring the stick back to S to decelerate or use the regen when we are talking iV or etec.

D keeps your gear quite high. Suggest using S or just flooring the pedal more

I've been driving a 1.0 e-Tec loan car for a few months (OK, I know its a different engine but has the same/similar e-Tec) and have noticed that sometimes it changes down but doesn't accelerate very much - unlike in a manual 'box car it would accelerate. Also, sometimes if the car is coasting with the engine at idle speed (700-800rpm) as soon as I touch the gas/accelerator pedal the rpm increases - but needs more pressure to make the car accelerate. With the DSG 'box in S mode, it doesn't drop in to Coasting mode and the gas pedal is much more responsive. If the 1.5 is anything like this 1.0, it changes up a gear quite early so a gentle press on the pedal doesn't do much. Gives great fuel economy though! Hope that helps, but I'm not sure if I've answered your question though!

I’ve gone with koni special actives. Massive difference. But I am also lowered on H&R

Remember that number of actions can restart the car : moving steering wheel easing brake pedal car in front moving off (it uses the radar) cabin too cold cabin too hot requiring air conditioning Some things will prevent start stop from happening : engine too cold battery not fully charged high electrical load (heated rear window, mirrors, seats etc) If your car is brand new, the battery might be bit down on charge if stored for a while. But possibly there is a faulty battery or voltage detector which would be fixed under warranty

My 1.5SEL Dsg stop start works perfectly.

And I thought we were doing well with Cavalier Sri 130's!

For info we've had our MkII Octavia since 2007 and it has this issue, exacerbated slightly by parking facing uphill. After heavy rain or a wash it too will drain water out of the door when opened but in in 13 years we've never had an issue with water freezing inside the door and the doors are still solid with no obvious sign of external or internal rust along the bottom edges. I know the Kamiq is a different and much newer design but the above may give you some degree of comfort that it's unlikely to cause issues long term (provided you keep your feet out of the way of the drain holes when you open the doors )

I too have bought a new Skoda Kamiq and I am very happy with it. Smooth, easy to drive and even the electronics are pretty straight forward to work through. However, like others, after rain or washing the car I open the front doors and on average drain between 200ml to 250ml of water from each door. I have spoken to the service department and they will take a look at it. But, judging from the comments on this page, I am not hopeful that they will find a solution. I will post on this page after I have received their report and proposed remedy.

The car was in with the dealer briefly this morning. TBH they really didn'y do much, they did say that the Kamiq and Fabia have the same door design, they checked the rubber seals and drain holes and declared they could find no problem. The problem hasn't been as bad as it first was and I wonder if that's becasue I have, several times, taken off and refit the seals where the water was coming from whilst trying to understand the problem. Have I inadvertently cleared a blockage? refit what was a loose part of the seal or am I wishful thinking? I made it clear I would be returning should I encounter more problems.