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Must give you a warm glow.... I'll get my coat

I've just come back to this thread, hadn't realised that I put the cat amongst the pigeons by referring to the previous threads on battery coding. The way I read it, the VAG "Closed System" is nothing to do with closed or open loop control systems, but is closed in the sense of a closed market. The cynic in me would suspect that this is partly about keeping the replacement battery market to themselves, and I find it hard to swallow the vague warning about increased battery wear. The battery management system is capable of continuously monitoring battery voltage and the current flow in and out, so is quite capable of determining the health of the battery. I see no reason why it cannot recognise a new (or healthy) battery (of the correct type and capacity) being fitted, and re- adapt to it within a space of time. That's what I meant by "robustly designed". After all, the other systems in the car can recover from an inadvertently flattened battery after a short time of running, though you might have to re-enter stored radio stations and phone numbers etc. I'm sure if you are the driver of a new-ish car and pay for main dealer servicing you would be a bit miffed if you went in for a battery change and then drove home still seeing warning lights/messages, so coding is great for such customers. everything works straight away and there is a log of a new battery being fitted. On the other hand, if your car was a few years old and you broke down on a wet and windy night and the local garage fitted a new battery without coding, you would be equally miffed if the car wouldn't start or displayed error messages for ever more. I appreciate that this is all surmise, as I don't have details of the software used for battery management, I suspect that's a closed shop too. At the end of the day, it's the original poster's car and up to them to do as they choose.

Without knowing for sure how individual OEM’s set up the control systems for monitoring battery performance, it does stand to strong reasoning that a system capable of tracking current flow to and from the battery and map them relative to corresponding measured voltage would at some point adapt to match the change in performance offered by fitting a new battery in place of one at end of life. Voltage drops off quicker in a damaged battery vs new battery for a determined current draw time. Therefore a battery condition map can be generated. The Banner article certainly supports that. Resetting the BEM would trigger a learn process similar to that when resetting TPMS. After changing an EFB to AGM in our Fab 3, Stop Start was near instantly available. It was 3 months before I asked the dealership to check and update the settings at annual service and the battery is fine. AGM will take a more aggressive charge and discharge profile over EFB and Flooded so updating the vehicle settings to AGM exploits the additional battery performance without overcharging gaining emissions/fuel savings with extended alternator down time. As for the OP and a dash full of lights going out after a recharge but coming back a few days later. That’s a strong whiff of battery capacity loss that the system can’t compensate for but recharging gives temporary respite showing all is fine with a decent amount of energy present. Deep discharging and/or excessive heat kills batteries, cold weather exposes the damage.

I keep the fuel receipts in a diary and work it out the long way. But I have only done this since June 1985. Examples below. Thanks, AG Falco

I must admit that I was ready to be a tiny bit miffed that the new one would look better than the old one, and that had circs been slightly different I might have been able to wait for the facelifted job. I'm not miffed at all, as it turns out, not least because this updated thing won't be available for yonks yet because of all the delays and stuff going on everywhere. As far as the inside is concerned, I reckon you really would have to be a Karoqorak to see any difference at all. As far the outside goes - and there isn't even a whiff of sour grapes, honest - I'm not bowled over by the changes at all. I prefer the front of the old one, especially the shape of the main grille. The new one is fussier, and it's developed a bit of a pout that it didn't have before, made more noticeable by the chrome frame on some models (less so on the all black ones, maybe). I reckon the changes to the lower grille are neither here nor there, and the squared-off upturned ends are a bit... erm... meh. I do think the new rear lights are better in that they're all LED instead of the neither-here-nor-there mix of LED and halogens on the outgoing one. I sorted that out on mine by replacing the halogen indicators and reversing lights with LEDs as many other peeps have done, and by putting a light grey film tint on the clear part of the rear light lenses. The bulbs I used weren't those ugly mega-bright things though - the ones I used were barely any brighter than the standard halogen items. I didn't want to give anybody behind me an unwanted suntan, just to have the lights snap on and off like LEDs do rather than wheezing into life like halogens. The only other things I've done are to replace the mirror indicator repeaters with the Kopacek dynamic scrolling jobs, and very nice they are too. Not cheap, but nice. As is the Kopacek black and body colour bonnet badge that's replaced the one on the picture. And in case any of you miserable 'I can't see the point of personal plates' people are cracking their knuckles ready to type something mean, that plate was Mrs Phutters' idea. Her dad was the youngest B17 pilot of the war, flying with The Mighty Eighth out of Poddington (the main runway of which is now the Santa Pod drag strip) until he was shot down over the Ardennes in the winter of 1944-5. All his crew baled out and survived, and the plane bellied itself into a muddy field, ending up quite remarkably intact for something which had, to all intents and purposes, fallen tens of thousands of feet with nobody at the wheel. The rest of the plate is his initials. He had B17 PLT on his own cars in the States, but somebody else had snaffled that when we got this one. He died about ten years ago. They threw him the keys to his B17 when he was barely nineteen years old.

Hurray for Yeti's on 16" wheels 205/55 16" £147 for 2 Michelin Cross Climate 2 fully fitted last week at Kwik Fit.

official facelift presentation from today: on

Despite being all very clever, the base setting of my Matrix LED headlights was a tad too high for my liking - good for owl watching... One turn of the white knob at the rear of each headlamp unit has lowered them just the right amount (it is marked 'up' and 'down'). With apologies for the grubby state of the light unit.... PS Kumho tyres worked just fine in the snow and ice this morning....

By all means, keep a spare battery in your wallet; by all means, keep batteries all over the place but DO ..... A Keep one in the glove-box and B Practise getting into the car using the mechanical key when the keyfob battery has died.

Yep, still some of us original 16” wheelers around!

Well, that's right. Aussies just like white, silver, gray, and black cars. Check the cars in the background, Most of them are white, silver, and black. Only one red car in the background.

@nta16 The same trips on the same roads in the same towns and cities year after years will include overtaking, following tractors, bikes etc and various speeds and overtaking. Scotland does not get that many new motorways, dual carriageways or bypasses built in 50 years. There are many more average speed cameras or mobile cameras where there are better / quicker roads / routes. A Euro 5 1,390 cc 180 ps DSG Mk2 Fabia vRS could do 10 miles per litre. Even better than that with a bit of easy ozzy driving or no passengers. Even better remapped so not running the factory Engine Management. No Stop / Start, no coasting function. The Twinchargers could be great, but VW never did the production right with too little R&D. (The CEO of VW North America bogged off to Volvo after introducing the Defeat Device TDI's to the USA & Volvo got the Twinchargers sorted.) VW Group gave the Sister cars as in the VW Polo GTI / Seat Ibiza Cupra from 2013 & the Audi A1 185ps which were heavier and on wider tyres a lowed VED band and better consumption figures. This is VW Group engineering, as in the more expensive cars must look as better performing by manipulation. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/319834-vrs-mpg-only-please http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/461848-real-world-mpg-in-your-vrs

Precisely why I disconect the BCM sensor from the negative battery terminal. Once disconnected, the alternator charges like it always did before all these complexities were forced upon us! In this freezing weather, it's good to know the battery is 100% when left out overnight.

First click to first click then if you won't allow the common shorthand of brim to brim. I always push the nozzle in as far as I can, ooh er missus... It's simply the most accurate easily achievable method. Do it or don't, up to you!

The engine's not idling though it's being driven by the wheels, no fuel is going in. Research it please. If you think about the brim-to-brim calculations for a while you'll probably realise that all your objections are invalid. .

Anyone with a Rapid, Scala, Octavia or Superb have more chance of people thinking it is a Taxi / Private Hire / UBER car and getting in, especially in town / city centres.

You must live and drive in unusually safe areas.

So improved aerodynamics, virtual cockpit now standard, optional matrix headlights and dynamic indicators (rear only??), and a new orange/gold colour. Looks like full LED rear lights for those who were bothered about the mix of LEDs and filament bulbs in the present Karoq, but at least the driver controls have retained the (safer IMO) buttons and knobs rather than go to touchscreen controls! Lots of pics here: Skoda Karoq (2022) - pictures, information & specs (netcarshow.com) Not coming until the spring, so no details yet of prices presumably. Chris

Kodiaq dsg 2.0 Executive old model, ordered on 03/29/2021, arrived with restyling in the dealership (Italy) on Saturday 11/27/2021, I'm waiting to take it home !!!

Been a while since I've updated this thread, car is still running well and has had a few upgrades this past year.

A seagull bringing it's eel breakfast for me to watch it being devoured. A lifeboat passing Herd Groyne lighthouse in the calm after the storm.

I dare say I'm not the only one to have done the winter wheel fit this weekend - I normally do it at the end of November and it seems to be good timing given the weather... Kumho tyres this time round from 'Blackcircles' after 'My Tyres' failed to deliver the Nokians I ordered - terrible service a few months ago, citing UK customs issues post-Brexit. I always knew they were Germany-based and haven't had a problem previously but now it appears to be just too difficult. And for the summer wheel cleaning, I modded one of my wheel racks (down to one car, one set of winters) into a wheel cleaning rig. A friend of mine is a professional detailer (VII Car care) and has the proper job. I'm too tight to buy one for using twice a year. Makes life much easier - apart from lifting the wheels up onto the workbench, might have to rig up a hoist next year!

Well, there were three castles in a triangle and it's not Grosmont I think Raglan, definitely Wales.

It's more aerodynamic, so it uses less fuel and has less wind noise. Matrix lights are pretty cool to have. Interior looks way better. Wheels are bigger so if you go for R17-R18 you have thicker sidewalls which should increase comfort.

Sneak peek at stern performance rear seat delete kit

just changed all 4 glow plugs,so must be circuit. Thanks for quick reply.

The thing is, even with knackered glow plugs, the PD's start quickly. I had a glow plug snap off in the head on my black vRS, it snapped as I was changing them due to it throwing the EML on the dash. It stayed snapped in the head for 80,000 miles and even when we had the real bad winter in 2018 (i think), it would start fine in -7c temps. It coughed once then ran clean all day. If you do identify a failing plug, be very careful about trying to remove them, especially if you have no dash lights on yet, as they like to stay where they are, despite all the tricks in the book about taking them out of a red hot engine etc.

Some things to watch out for are... Very creaking suspension (applies to both DCC and non DCC). Common problem it seems and very often not permanently resolved, which is often put down to one or more of various suspension bushes, but very tricky to find someone to definitively diagnose and permanently solve it seems. (Speaking from personal experience). Alarmingly loud sometimes, like a set of rusty bed springs. Loose or mis-aligned chrome door trim at B pillar where the abutment sometimes snags on each other. Glove box catch doesn't work properly on some cars, resulting in random opening while driving. Umbrella in doors and boot torch often missing if buying used. Suspension delivery blocks have been known to be left in place so if suspension feels ultra harsh, possibly double check this (not sure how though).

Scan again to see the exact faults, @Urrell may have been spot on about there being a fault that's unrelated to battery charge level. Will be upsetting to spend hundreds on battery replacement and still have the faults.

Same faults as previous, ABS Module and Start / Stop (haven’t scanned yet though). As for the Yuasa battery, I’ve just googled it and apparently it’s not Start / Stop compatible. Hmm, maybe the Tayna one is still in the running

If you are in deep snow, wet snow, blizzard type condition the snow can compact in any kind of wheels / spoke type. As to Narrow Tyres, then yes maybe studded / snow tyres and getting through to get grip then narrow works. If on Ploughed / Gritted / Salted roads even with snow lying on top the winter / All Weather / Snow tyre tread works with the snow. Narrower need not be better and if you think 215 is better than 235 or 225 then by that thinking 195 might be even better, The thing is that in the UK from November to April the All Weather / Winter tyres might get hours or days of doing the job on Snow / Ice but then have weeks of just dealing with not so cold, not so wet or not so snowy.

Bought a wee citigo as the family runabout. We have a QashQai as the main family motor It’s a 2018 colour edition, I test drove a few small cars and the citigo was by far the best in my opinion.

This is what you should see on your screen. I assume the dealer fitted a genuine Skoda camera ?. Assuming it's done the same way as it was in my previous Kodiaq, the wiring kit that came with it it should be connected directly into the rear of the head unit and it should have been coded to your car via a link to the VAG system in Germany.

Thanks for the uptdate Lee, that gives me a bit of hope since we have ordered the exact same model, perhaps two months after you. It sounds like things are moving a bit.

Update: After i finished a trip of 444 Km (few cold starts and everything was fine) i parked the car on the road and Saturday morning i started the car, the idle was good as the previous days and i said to myself ''Ok we solve the problem". Monday morning things were not so good, the idle was stayed a little bit longer at 1100 rpm and later when i finished my shift (the car was parked 5 floors below at the basement) i turned the key and i saw the same sad phenomenon. By instinct i pop-up the hood and i was surprised ! From the side of the filter box the plastic adaptor was missing which means that more air than it should be was coming inside and this affecter the idle badly. Maybe from vibrations was removed from his position, touched the belt which throw him away and got stuck front of the pulley, thank God he didn't dropped inside otherwise i would have a major problem. Here it is from another angle, as you can see was touching the pulley a little bit. Tonight i will have another cold start test just to calm myself.

do ye be consuming much cow milk based dairy products? people assume lactose intolerance only affects the bowels/ stomach, but it can also cause sinus issues. both my missus and older son are on lactose free diets as both get heavy nasal congestion from it and swmbo sufers from sore throats from milk too.

SuperSkoda one.

DO NOT run the wires by just tucking them into the A pillar! So many people make this mistake and I’m forever correcting it on cars I work on. The reason being, there is a curtain airbag that runs above your head and down the A pillar, this is made to deploy in a set way, when you run the wires straight over the top of it you are preventing it from doing its job In an accident. The A pillar trim is very easy to remove and you should run the wires behind the airbag then down the original loom and behind the dash this way.

You’d be crazy not to go for a new style automatic. they combine the efficiency of a manual with the perfect changes of an auto. new boxes are nothing like your old torque converter style that chew a lot of power up, I would 100% recommend a automatic over the manual in octavia’s and superbs

All sorted thanks to vw parts thanks for the heads up

Everyone keeps saying buying in the first year of a new model is a bad idea, but no one seems to listen. Manufacturers know this and predicting every rattle is too expensive so all of them push barely ready cars out the door and just sort issues as they come up.

The car stops all fuel going to the engine when, in gear but with no throttle applied and the engine speed is above about 1400 RPM. I can see this in action on my car by setting the MFD to instant fuel consumption reading. On one road to work I can use this method for over 1/2 mile with no throttle. The road goes downhill and at the top it is a national speed limit 60MPH and has a 30MPH limit at the bottom. For most of this road the instant fuel consumption reading is ZERO fuel being used. Filled the car with petrol on 10th Nov and did 58 MPG since the previous fill up. This is working to out, not using the car's read out, which is fairly accurate. Thanks, AG Falco

Sorry that you've had those issues. I've used the Vicks Sinex (Oxymetazoline) one to aid this problem a little. It's been a wee bit better recently compared to the way it was, which is nice.

Does your new car have USB-C sockets instead? If so I would recommend storing your music files on a small USB-C memory stick instead. One of these: MyMemory 128GB Dual USB-C & USB 3.1 Flash Drive - 200MB/s £22.99 - Free Delivery | MyMemory is small enough to fit under the sliding cover in my Karoq, and has a standard USB port at the other end to plug into a PC. Chris

Oh I forgot. Had a hand grafted Gearknob made by Builtbybasil.com which arrived yesterday. feels great.

No, red is better. Black is beautiful for about five minutes after each cleaning. (Nice photoshop job.)

How goods this gonna be! 😊

Measuring open circuit voltage with a voltmeter can be misleading it is the batteries capacity to maintain a specified voltage while delivering current to the load that is important. If open circuit voltage drops much below 3.0 then the battery is most likely duff. You really need to measure the voltage with the battery in the fob, not straightforward.

Not sure if this page helps any more or not? Skoda Workshop Manuals > Yeti > Heating, ventilation, air conditioning system > Heating, Air conditioning > Air conditioner > Climatic, air conditioning system with manual control > Removing and installing the evaporator vent temperature sender G263 (workshop-manuals.com)

Not mine but here’s one to get things rolling.