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Reminds me of ‘the Likely Lads’ episode where Bob and Terry are trying to avoid learning the England match score... tbh, I’m quite happy to know the result before I watch it, but having said that, , I intend to be be watching C4 all Sunday afternoon!

The EPC light on my daughter's 1.2 , 2010 Fabia recently illuminated and she lost power. She managed to get going again but it happened repeatedly especially after trying to pull away from red lights. We limped the car home and I set to work on trying to find the issue. A quick diagnostics check with a cheap reader showed no codes. I cleaned all the plugs and connectors but the car still lacked power. After some research I checked the brake lights and saw that both the nearside and offside were not working although the one above the tailgate was. I decided to change the brake light switch, which is situated on top of the brake pedal in case it was faulty and had caused a surge resulting in blown bulbs and the EPC light. Both brake light bulbs had indeed blown so I changed these. As soon as I switched the ignition on the EPC light went out and the car is back to full 1.2 power! Cost of parts, under £20.00. The brake light switch is easy to change. Turn it anti clockwise slightly to take it from it's mount. press the two side clips in to remove the wires and change it over with fitting being the reversal . Leave the brake pedal in it's resting position as you re-fit..Less than two minutes to change. I have posted this in the hope it may help other baffled owners save time and money.

Hey guys, just wanted to give a shoutout to one of the members here @Cocain I had a radio issue in my fabia mk2, he offered to give me his unit for free! I went to collect it, not only the radio, he fixed some cracked wires in my door loom and ran the car through VCDS to nail down the radio issue, erase any errors etc, about 4hrs all in! and he wouldn't take one penny for it!! It's things like this that make me happy to be a member of this community and i only hope that i can do the same for someone else in the future. Thanks @Cocain top man all around! And he's got a sweet fabia as well!!

Since petrol went to very low-sulphur formulations to make catalytic converters survive, exhausts don't rot from the inside out like they used to.

Just as a wee recommendation then, I've got the Aldi branded one of these and I imagine that's just the same thing: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363357118683?hash=item5499c5a0db:g:5oMAAOSwP6FgdHuc They plug in behind the wee cubby thing besides the steering wheel, you pull it to open it, then pull it once more and you'll see a wee purple plug. Let it run it's diagnostic thingy and it'll come back with codes pointing you towards whatever problem it is, hopefully. My wee one was great for decrypting various Fabia problems. This is it on an LHD car, so RHD is just mirrored. Hope this helps.

Well, I’ve had a go at a little mend but only time will tell if it is fixed. As mentioned earlier the external plunger looks a little marked as the seat was up and down on a regular basis in the car’s early life. I had a think about how I could pad out the plunger and experimented with different thicknesses of insulation tape stuck to the plunger to see if the concept would work. then as seen in the photo, I cable tied a 15mm width piece of heat shrink with another single thickness inside into place to match the 5 thicknesses of insulation tape that seemed successful. A gentle smear of rubber grease above and below to keep things slippery finished the job off. So far so good with the seat back latching perfectly. Normally, the seat I would put down to carry a load is the passenger side rather than this one. I tried 20 seat up and downs and the cable tie / heat shrink stayed perfectly in place and the light went out perfectly each time. I’ll test it more thoroughly over the next week.

Ignore the safety police, buy a ballast and a bulb and swap them back for the MOT. It isn't illegal to have Xenon headlamps, lots of cars have them.

Mine is from Aldi, I went to order one and my Grampa says "get two" so one for himself too.

Don't waste your money on additives. It is impossible to diagnose your problem without fault codes. It will be impossible to repair your car without some money for parts. Tell us where you are and someone from on here may be able to read the codes for you.

You could also check that your car battery isn't low, even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough, now is a very good time to check anyway as the days get shorter and colder and your electric use with increase and battery charging possibly decrease. Take any error codes generally as pointers only and there can be many faults that won't give an error code or soon enough but at £15 if it gives any codes it's better than not knowing.

yep me to got both and ive found them a great upgrade.

update it was the thermostat opening to early so car is having some tlc at min as we have found other issues =will start other threads rather than mixing them up

Just had notification that my car is built, and now on the way to the port before coming over to the U.K., expected to be delivered in January. The details you’ll all want: Ordered through Leaseplan, placed with Listers in Coventry Octavia SEL 1.4 PHEV/iV Brilliant silver, otherwise no extras Order placed with Leaseplan in June, but accepted by Skoda in early July. Was quoted 20 weeks lead time, will come out around 25 depending on final delivery date! Good luck to you all!

Update. I figured rather than mess around I'd get the loom changed. Got back in touch with the main dealer, got the part number - 5L0971120GA for my 2012 model - £130+VAT. Got a crazy labour quote. Rang my local garage, got a better labour quote, gave them the work. They also collected the car and returned it, and it coincided with my MOT being due which I'd get them to do anyway. (aside: MOT passed with just a note about the front brake pads being low - woo-hoo!). I asked to keep the removed loom. So here it is. - definitely knackered. - glad to see that the new one has the U-shaped boot.

Have a look at the below. https://www.vwvortex.com/threads/02m-whining-decel-noises-aftermarket-clutch-disengagement-issues-mainshaft-axial-play.6089802/?id=6089802

I think this is the official Skoda procedure: Skoda Workshop Manuals > Fabia Mk1 > Drive unit > 1.0/37; 1.4/44; 1.4/50 kW MPI engine > Engine cylinder head, valve gear > Repairing cylinder head > Basic setting of hydraulic valve clearance compensation (workshop-manuals.com) Not familiar with this at all so don't ask me to explain anything about it! I believe the engine mechanicals are very similar to the Felicia 1.3 though, from what I've heard. Compare what's in the link to what Ricardo has written, and Haynes for that matter, which in my experience is usually written in much clearer language than the translated official VW/Skoda stuff.

Which involves a new bumper and a hell of a lot of effort. Nightbreakers are good as far as I know. I've got Philips bulbs that quote 130% brightness over the standard candles, got them on Amazon. There was a thread in the Mk3 Forums for halogen/projector people. The only photograph that appears with the embed is one I posted further down the page. Weird. Another top tip: polish the outsides of the headlight units if they're clouding over, helps quite a bit depending on how bad they are.

Hi Peter, thank you for your comment. Well the Volvo might be for sale next year 😪. Here is a good photo of it.

**DEPOSIT TAKEN** Skoda Octavia VRS MK1 Estate 2005 55 Plate, Private plate included valued at £600. I purchased the car earlier this year but unfortunately I now need to sell it to pay for repairs to another car I own. I spent a fair while trying to find one of these cars as they are getting rare now especially in good condition and low mileage. The car is in very good condition for its age but obviously does have age related damage, scratches, small car park dents etc. The interior is probably the best I have ever seen for one of these. The car also comes with a bootliner and dog guard. The car has done 85500 which is very low for one of these. It has got good history with the cambelt being changed in 2019 so you dont need to worry about that. The car has just been MOT'd today with just two advisories. One is for corrosion on the brakes from where it has been parked up and the other is for the tyres starting to crack. If you are looking for a good honest example then you will not be disappointed. Open to sensible offers, not looking to swap or part exchange. £3750 Open to sensible offers

You didn't specifically ask but ... I changed the head unit on my 2014 Yeti for a Kenwood DNX518VDABS, so just some notes: It's not a cheap option ! The old head unit was separate from the bluetooth, but the Kenwood has bluetooth built in I needed an adaptor for the GPS cable that was already in the car because the connector is different. There is no way to connect the old aux socket into the Kenwood To connect the the existing car microphone requires soldering your own cable between the connectors on the quadlock and the phono in the back of the Kenwood The touch screen on the Kenwood actually works for every touch !!. Audio on the Kenwood is much better Maps look better on the Kenwood The navigation integration into the driver display has less info', and is generally less sophisticated e.g. it always tells you about the next junction even if it's 70 miles down a straight road The Kenwood audio instructions for navigation are not so intuitive as the original - e.g. take one roundabout and the 2nd exit and as you take the exit the audio says something like "at the round about take the third exit", it's telling you about the next roundabout but you may be momentarily confused - the original satnav's instructions were never that ambiguous. At roundabouts where there is a route straight across, or you can go around the outside for the other junctions the Kenwood always tells you to drive right around the outside even when you really want to go straight across. Overall I like the Kenwood better but there are some points to think about.

Thanks TMB

Unlikely that any will fit in that case. Best selling the bits and putting the money towards new bits. I've seen a yeti at a very high state of tune so it's a very capable platform. Enjoy.

And in winter, I'm sure I've noticed (when left on) the idle been increased due to the additional electrical demand.

Seconded.

Intercooler (if not a kit) and turbo might work although the flow rate might be off if coming from something so highly tuned. The rest is unlikely to fit as it's a different platform I think.

No I haven't had a chance to get to a garage yet to see what it's coming up as.

Hi all just joined. I have a yeti 2013 Lauren & Klement.

Well flap me sideways. Next thing you'll be telling us you have reversing lights but only use them for reversing.

Sometimes it just depends on whether they like the look of you or not

Hello everyone as requested my first attempt at posting. I have Kodiaq SE-L in Energy Blue, only had it since September so still getting used to it. Previous car was a Yeti which I had for 11 years and was sad to say farewell.

^ Looking very chilly there 🥶

If it's like mine (Ambiente with almost no options) then it won't have it. I've not got a seatbelt or door open thingy either.

Lovely looking Octavia in the blue. I like it!

No, H7 halogen and D2S xenon bulbs are totally different. Just fit them with a set of the correct bulbs with ballasts. Chances are it will pass an MOT. If not, keep your original halogen units to swap back in for an MOT.

I know, but it's now got to the point were it's hilarious guessing when they're going to come on and at what speed - sloooow, one wipe a second, or full on "greasy chicken speed" 😆

Just installed it today. 👍 Great tip, speaker cloth is brilliant. Tacky enough to stick, yet allow a few re-adjustments.

True. Truckloads of torque. Having owned both variants, the 2.0 is way more pleasant to drive daily than the 1.4 16v. My BBZ Fabia only moves decently because the gearbox ratios are extremely short, anything over 60 mph will have the engine running at 4500 RPM+ and it tops at 118 mph at 6300ish RPM. That gets old quickly in motorways. The 2.0 used much longer ratios, which ultimately even saves fuel and makes trips bearable. The 2.0 pulls from any gear, at any point in the rev range. The 1.4 16v is gutless under 3000 rpm but it gets to redline in the blink of an eye. It's good to let the BBZ breathe every once in a while but I still miss that 2.0 dearly.

Thanks for the help, i downloaded ECE 5 & successfully got on the card

Just had a call from my dealer to say my car is on it's way and should get first week of January. VRS 245 Estate DSG - Race Blue, Canton, Reverse Camera, Winter Pack and Spare Wheel on the 17th July.

Wow. The F1 race director today actually suggested this very sanction above ^^^^^ can and will be employed against drivers or teams who crash the opposition to win the title. Red Bull better have the fastest car then on Saturday and Sunday then.

If the deadline is 5 months away you just know they haven't even looked at the problem yet. 🤣

That ties in with what I've heard. No point trying to get anything fixed until then.

When I have run in competitions, semi-marathons and one marathon (bailed through injury at 32km) I hit the start button when passing under the start line on my Garmin, there were KM markers along the course and my watch would always beep within a few yards of all of them, sometimes before, sometimes after, at the end of a 21km semi it was rarely more than 50m out which I found amazing.

Pull on the gear selector gaitor in the corner till it pops out. After this, reach inside and underneath the switch pack and push it upwards, it will come out and no need to remove any more trim

Back when there were Mk2's it was 4 years / 40,000 miles VW /Skoda. VW went 30,000 / 3 years and Skoda often had no idea. Then it became 3 years / 30,000 miles and Skoda Main Dealers often having no idea about filters / screens. Still they do not in lots of cases. £85 spent at a Main Dealers can be just half a job done sadly. An oil change is not enough.

Or choose a smaller map pack with fewer countries...

That is another 1.2TSI 16V engine, in a Rapid, having suffered this fuel leak caused by sheared bolt, when the owner talked to their Skoda dealer and Skoda UK, the answer was "a know fix - £600 to you!" they had just had that car in for its service at that Skoda dealer and questioned if it was a "known fix" why it was not checked on that car while it was in for this service or any of the previous ones - no more words were spoken. I've suggested any/all of the previous ways of trying to get this money back, if they bother to go down that route I can't say. Skoda you and only you built these engines - shame on you for not bothering to accept responsibility, bad things can happen even in modern factories, but how they are resolved is important.

I doubt if you brim the tank and do 3 times 12 mile cold start trips and an extra 2 miles that you will only need 4.546 litres to brim it again. If it does do 38 mpg with that kind of use it is wonderful. But then 1.4tsi,s are wonderful.

No doubt you've already checked this, but a (relatively) common issue on the Kodiaq is the pair of electrical feed bellows on the top of the tailgate aperture. They often visually look intact but quite a few people have had issues with them not sealing to the body of the car properly. This essentially diverts a large proportion of any water that either runs off the roof into the gulley where the bellows are, or that runs down the tailgate when it's opened, either inside the car (which then runs down into the boot or spare wheel well), or sits in the bellow and instantly runs into the tailgate when it's opened and the bellow lifted. The bellows are often used to route the electrical feed for rear dash cams and the retrofitting of a reverse camera. Either some of the clips are snapped off or they're not reseated properly. As mentioned, they look OK but in reality they're still able to let water past. Might not be your issue, but worth a cursory check if you haven't already.

When I start the info system and select my user profile I get this configuration screen. Then I press the icon I am pointing at. Then it is the page where you can change the date, time and change it to 24h Hope that helps. Not sure how you get into the config page if you have already selected don’t show again on the first picture but I am sure someone must know.