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Looking down a river near Ravenglass. Can't remember the name of the river though

Dont press the clutch.

The low cost of a part often has nothing to do with how much work or what a PITA the work is to do. Some will do these jobs whilst eating breakfast and find all jolly spiffing, you might want the learning experience. But then there's also the risk of damage and finding associated work from starting the job, it might not be the case for this job, but it might, more joy for some and perhaps yourself. Whilst the diagnosis is a high probable it's never certain given it's just from your typed description and can't for certain say why it is happening, the cause, and if there have been other effects meaning more work and parts required to complete the job. Given your following post, which may or may not be related as you seem to have other issues with the car, the work could be mounting. Photos and videos often help as obviously more can be seen (especially if you video in landscape where appropriate and not just portrait) plus audio of noises and operation, can help. If you don't desperately need the car to use you could take things apart for a good look or if there's access you could use a cheap borescope on your phone to have a look-see inside without taking things apart. Or once things are apart you can decide whether to press on or put things back together again and hope for the best. You also need to prioritise the jobs that need doing, unfortunately the cheapest, easiest or one you most want to do isn't alway the job you need to do first. I have no idea about your car but if you are short of money you cannot be sentimental you must know when to draw the line with an old car and not throw good money after bad, I would have the T-shirt for this behaviour but I couldn't and can't afford it. Good luck, whatever you decide or do.

Come off it Lofty!! Course I can change an oil filter Lol, but cooler assembly is over my head. Anyway, here is the finale. Bought a Lucas Cav sensor, took it to my local mechanic (with the car), he then rang me 1 hour later saying the sensor does not fit. Recommended he order original part, to which I agreed. 4 hours later, rang again with the news, new part also does not fit. The Lucas sensor that I bought & the sensor that the mechanic bought were both too large in diameter. My mechanic said he was stumped & had no idea why. Next day mechanic rang and said, cars ready. Upon picking car up he explained he had talked to Skoda & it transpired that the original factory sensor is inserted in a sleeve. When he removed the sleeve/insert, the sensor slid straight in. So, hoping the last paragraph may help someone who finds there new sensor will not fit. Thanks to those who replied with help & suggestions.

I don't think the noise matters to anything except your ears, but I suppose it might seize up completely one day. Bearing is cheap, labour to get to it - not at all cheap (same as for fitting new clutch, hence waiting til then). You have bigger fish to fry. Maybe another reason in favour of ditching this car?

If it has Xenon headlights ? it doesn't have the range adjust as it's done via the automatic level sensors

The world really has gone mad. They'll have banned petrol and diesel cars by the time they build our cars 🤣

Makes you wonder if they have a stunt pipe?

Hello again! After owning a 2010 VRS Limited Edition and then a VRS245 saloon I find myself needing another family car following 2 pandemic years in a Mk5 Golf GTi. I think this will be my 6th or 7th Skoda! I've looked at all sorts from SUVs Q5, X5 to estates A4/6 Allroad 330i touring but nothing quite mates the practicality, kit, performance and value for money quite as well as the VRS. Therefor if anyone see's a good VRS 245 estate about let me know

Suzuki launched a new little car and the UK Motoring Journalists gave good reviews for the small cheap city car they tested when staying at All Inclusive Hotels in the sunny climes driving left hand drive cars. They arrived in the UK and that was when it was found that if you braked hard the car accelerated as the firewall flexed on the right hand drive cars. EDIT. Maybe just the lack of braking power Autocar said they discovered on 2 cars with the Suzuki Celerio in 2015. http://bbc.co.uk/news/business-31093206 What Car / Autocar make a Car, Car of the year like they often do before any customer ever gets one in the UK, they drove left hand drive ones. They have done that pre-christmas in time for TV ads when the cars were not being delivered until the start of the New Year. eg Mk3 Skoda Fabia.

A major factor is that we drive RHD cars and most major manufacturers do their physical testing in LHD countries in LHD cars. Certainly this was the case when I worked at an automotive consultancy. The Type Approval of RHD versions is largely a paperwork exercise. With this testing regime problems like KPH/MPH, LHD/RHD won't show up - so IMHO VAG should take from this sorry episode that they need to do more physical testing of RHD cars in RHD countries before launch.

The dealer won’t be doing it. There will be a VW audit rep doing the work.

keep a bar of emergency chocolate in there with less melting

Get under the bonnet with the engine running and have a listen. Could be cam belt tensioner , alternator or a/c (if fitted) pulley if it is clutched, perhaps

Rufford Park last night.........

Hi, I'm selling my Geniuine VCDS Hex-V2 cable, bought from Gendan in December 2018. I'm happy to send the buyer the order confirmation / receipt from when I bought it. I used it about half a dozen times on my VRS to add the stuff in my signature before that went last September and it's been sitting in a cupboard since, it's in as new condition. It's the 3 VIN version, and one has been used. Now Sold

Good work here, very impressed at the level of effort going into this. All you need is a rear disc conversion for the vRSDI now.

Lot of progress done since: The axle has turned out very nice compared to what it was before, should keep looking fresh for a while yet. I managed to find a set of 256mm rear brakes, full set up including discs and pads. Had to ship them over from England, but I got them. Pads look to be the same as the new pads I bought for the 232mm setup, so I think I should get new discs and put all the new stuff on instead of using these discs and pads (even though they seem to have very little wear on them). Had new 232mm discs bought, but they won't be needed. Side by side of the 232mm standard rear discs vs the 256mm setup. And test fitted to the axle: Calipers are silver which I wouldn't mind, but the fronts are green so the rears need to be painted to match. So I scuffed all down and etch primed them. I had a can of the correct shade (Pantone 348) green mixed up, should match the fronts well. Noticed the calipers have helper springs already fitted, seems these help keep handbrakes from sticking on. Getting pretty good with a spray can. Also got the polybushes in, they went in with little fuss, got them started in with my hands and tapped them through with a rubber mallet. Aiming to have it in end of next week, should be doable.

I didn't find any obvious problem with the one you kindly sent me Ryan. Didn't get round to trying it in my car, and realistically that may never happen.

If using the superb IV there is very little scope for "holding back much charge" if you only start out with about 25 mile of electric range, and I do not believe that this sat nave is good enough to do this, it barley gets the best route in any conditions, let alone know where the zones start and stop, and to "guess" how far you will be travelling on electric only.

Our 2018 Fabia is now up to a huge 17800 miles! It is mainly the wife’s car to ferry kids to school, so doing about 3000 miles but since my non Skoda is broken I am now using it as my daily. Davy

Thanks both, That was actually what I thought when it happened the first time, but the 3 month delay made me think twice. I'll look into it further, when I find a fix, I'll update this thread too.

Cheers, I was thinking that as well but wasn't sure.

Yes that's the JKM, they are specialists in all things VAG, maybe not Škoda approved though. Only ever had very positive dealings with them. The car is getting booked in at a main agent..for diagnosis as suggested...watch this space 😆

I would have thought move the wedges up not down so they press harder on the equivalent rubber wedge on the boot lid 🤔

400km / 250 miles would suit many if an EV can do that with 4 adults, luggage and heating / ac and cooler weathe r & winter tyres or even warmer weather still on the winters. Not even getting near that with just a driver is real world time after time with EV's and unrealistic 'WLTP / Published numbers'. EDIT. An update vid thankfully. This shows just how rubbish some reviewers 'guessing' ranges of EV's having maybe only driven a few miles and then computing from that. Then constant driving can be very different from the battery having several stops, cooling down and then driving on again.

I just had an update! Apparently I have a provisional build date of w/c 27/06 along with the standard skinchies clauses incase it all goes tits. So that'll be over 17 months from the point of order to build if it actually goes ahead 🤞

Mine is like that anyway since the air conditioning isn't working...

I think this has always been the case since the golf GTE. If you use the onboard satnav it tries to arrive at the destination with nil charge remaining. Edited: it's not actually shown in the manual or the brochure!

Depends on the sort of journeys you are doing. If you are regularly doing decent runs then a diesel might be better. If like me your driving is mostly short journeys then the mpg becomes less relevant. I was doing well over 15,000 miles a year in my diesel Yeti, It now takes me over three years to do the same mileage. Mpg is no longer a relevant factor. With a diesel doing that mileage I'd be more worried about dpf and egr problems. tom

Ta.

Is this actually going to save any money, by the time depreciation etc is all factored it? Or is it just going to make you feel better at the pump? I’d suspect the latter without actually seeing figures first.

Over 330 miles from the 77 kW battery is fantastic if you get that, that is about 4.3 miles per kWh. If he has actually driven 330 miles from full and had some range left then great. If just quoting Official WLTP & 'may get up to 335 mile range' then shut that door!

I bet that pipeline has acted in other movies now. Once you've done a Bond movie, you can probably write your own cheque too.

I think that’s in fort William. But there are a lot of hydro pipes in Scotland. But on the way to Skye … quad…

The world is not enough. after 8secs. I idea where the first one is. ok back to photos sorry.

They are one piece, the cat is the portion that connecters to the turbo and the DPF is the large box at the bottom past the flexi. There are slight variations between 2010-14 on the 1.6tdi. Do you know if your dpf has 1 or 2 pressure sensor pipes? My 2010 dpf had one vs the used replacement i got which was from a 2014 fab had only one sensor pipe. (on the photos of the exhaust on the pathway you can see where the garage cut out the post sensor pipe off my old dpf to weld onto the newer one. Is there a reason you need a new one is the cat failed or is there a problem with the exhaust piping? A new part will set you back over £750+ VAT I have attached a few photos of my old and replacement so you can see what to look for

It is not a surprise that the cars were put out on sale as they are car manufacturers and if VW Group waited for fault free and properly tested vehicles they would be out of business. They took Software inhouse, they had Average Co2 emissions to meet and had to get cars first registered in the EU and in the UK to be achieve these as at the time they still did not have enough Partner Manufacturers that assist the kidology of these figures by them having EV's and Hybrids actually produced and selling that were fit for purpose. VW / Skoda took the pith to save paying millions in penalties for their emissions being too high so they got their lower emissions ones on the road and some are unsafe and EU and UK Authorities let them away with it.

I suspect the screen has been replaced as the clips are never the same afterwards

I also tried it with pokes of crisps. You can't get a McCoys in there well but two packets of Mini Cheddars works just fine.

Well it's too late for me I just didn't feel safe driving my Octavia.I hope this fix is the panacea for all the issues but I feel Skoda owe all the owners with cars that had issues some sort of compensation for selling them a vehicle that should have never been put on the road with the plethora of faults it had and were very reluctant to take responsibility or ever apologised .

Not one for composition of the day award, the box of beer for a pillow may of had an influence… One from the weekend… good morning sunshine.

I meant impossible to just code without FeC. Actually I've found some shady instruction but not sure it's still working or will work with current gen. Also, odis and vas adapter are required. Check here: https://www.drive2.ru/l/593313242974033325/ It works. Without pACC but works. I had no issues with simple ACC either. I received the car in December 2021 and I'm from Estonia

Try and keep on top of mine with weekly washes, and one/two big details a year. . . The weekly is becoming harder to stick to with a 4 month old to look after.

I went out for a test drive in a Born (VZ3) today and was extremely impressed with it. Granted the steering wheel controls were a bit awkward and took some understanding but the AR heads-up display was very bright and clear (the photo doesn't really do it justice). Even though the car had 20" wheels, the ride wasn't at all bad either. Some photos.

First thing is stop throwing random chemicals in, 99% of them wont fix the issue and youre wasting your money You need to give more details -What kind of driving does the car get, in detail -What scan tool are you using and when you say according to the readings, what readings? -Taking the dpf off to clean it will not help either as the ash content will not change -How many oil changes have you done on it then and for what reason did you do them, how do you know its diluted oil? Give some answers to these and we might be able to pin point a cause

See page 43 of the Kodiaq Maintenance Workshop Manual: Kodiaq oil filter replace.pdf The Kodiaq Maintenance Manual, together with a number of other Workshop Manuals, is available to download here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/files/category/8-skoda-kodiaq/

Hey guys and girls been very quiet lately due to work commitments but the project is still coming along , say hello to an OEM dual mass flywheel from a dq250 1.4 tsi golf , it weighs in at a whopping 10.6 kg so I have had it sent off to make a ultra lightweight flywheel here in the Uk 🇬🇧 hoping to get it a single mass flywheel instead of a dual mass with a weight of 3.3-4kg will be an absolute rocket with a weight saving like that as the dq250 is slightly heavier than a dq200

Hi, I don't know if you sorted this issue yet but suggesting the bulb looks alright "Visually", (Same for the fuse) Is like saying something looks like it will taste nice, visually... You use your tongue for that and will often be way off mark! Get the items tested properly and/or replace with ones you know actually ARE working. You would be surprised how often a bulb/fuse looks good but won't work and they are so simple to test and replace.

Lubricity is one of the major plus points of biodiesel - it's one of the secondary reasons for allowing to be used in mineral diesel blends, to compensate for the lower lubricity of desulphurised diesel.