Leaderboard

Last update from me: I cancelled my order this week and got my downpayment back. I managed to find a Mazda on stock at a dealer nearby, went for a test drive, liked it a lot and settled for it. I was a bit disappointed at first I didn't end up with the Skoda, but I can't wait indefinitely for a car to arrive. Also, the Mazda came equipped with almost the same options as the Octavia, plus some extra like blind spot monitoring and ended up costing me 2000 euros less than the Skoda. So good luck to everyone waiting for their car, I hope the wait is worth it and that you will enjoy you ride once it arrives.

Frosty...

Excellent idea, just disconnected the cable and unfortunately, no alarm, so that blows my theory about the bonnet sensor. More annoying is the fact that the alarm just went off again, this time beyond way beyond the 30 second activation time, so back to square one, fuse 54 removed. Battery voltage now 12.1V, so the quicker I get that sorted the better really. 😩

Made me chuckle seeing this sign on a closed road rally stage 😄

I'm afraid that car is a lemon, best cut your losses on it rather than doubling down.

Hello It seems that the problem is solved. I don't know what exactly helped but here's what I did: 1. Restart phone (2 times) 2. Samsung OneUI update 3. Disable remote Android Auto in android app (now my Android Auto works only through USB cable) Since 2 days everything works fine. Thanks!

Obviously getting these in for end of month / quarter / financial year. Instavolt Banbury hub extension live today with 8 extra 150kW chargers.

p0171 can be caused by many issues as the guys said vacuum leak is a big culprit but other things can cause this error code i had this code and it was down to a leaking flexi on the cat so you really need to do a thorough search of your car mate.

There is apparently an issue with the engine cover on 2.0 TSI engines where the cover can become detached and slip down the back of the engine onto hot components.

Many thanks for that info Pete, and the time you put in finding it. I've actually got EKTA site bookmarked BUT most of the time I can't get my head around it lol. Haven't dismantled pedal yet (crap weather), but car has not been run for around 9 months up until trip to garage re crank sensor. Lifting pedal back up dropped the revs promptly, so I wondered if it was sticking through lack of use. Last 2 days just sat in the car and constantly up-down on pedal, it does seem as though it's done the trick, tickover now a steady 900, and engine braking as it should. So thanks again, until the next crisis!

Crazy weather here - started off with a dusting of snow and then we've alternated between in hail, black clouds, thunder and bright blue skies!!

He won't stay No1 son for long if he does!

Misfires will be plugs or a coil pack and there's no MAF to worry about, check for vacuum leaks in the brake servo line as well.

I'm in the rare group that likes the sound actuator. I've always been one to enjoy a good engine sound without creating a stir to anyone outside of the car. Yep, a good feature that should stay because it is easily switched off and can be defaulted to being off, as opposed to the Auto Start/Stop feature that I always want to be off but cannot default it to the Off setting.

I was sitting here earlier trying to work out a way of saying it that wouldn't sound like a right kick to the teeth...

I thought about the permanent one but i don't want to drain my battery. The 70mai have an inbuilt battery to start recording if the car has a choc so I went with the rear wiper. I would stay away from the headlights, blowing a fuse on theme or shorting theme in any way will be more dangerous than a simple wiper.

I'd be tempted to sell your HEX-CAN USB on eBay as they tend to go for £250-£300 It'll probably work out cheaper than the upgrade path

I just bought a 2021 (71) vrs phev and it's ace. not seen any faults so far.

In answer to your original question, the roof panel is bonded at the front windscreen flange, the tailgate opening and across the centre reinforcer member under the headling. It is also spot welded in the valley that the roof trims cover and is finally seam sealled following satisfactory welding. Hope it helps.

I have a 2014 vrs TSI and so Issues at all with start and stop. The cam stays on until I open the door, which shuts down all the electronic

I personnaly use the rear wiper too. Turns the cam on and off with the car. I use a 70MAI

My favourite type of fix, a free one!

raky, errors codes usually only tell you where to start looking, your diagnostics, not that they give the solution so do not change the sensor just because it gives an error code, you could just be shooting the messenger. If you really do need to change a sensor then buy a good quality one. VW, Bosch and other labels on them and the boxes do not always mean they are the best but they should still be good, check with others about brands (or non-brands) as often it can be a gamble and the new sensors can be unreliable sooner or later and cause problems or need replacing again. Same with spark plugs and coils, buy good quality makes from reliable sources, fake/counterfeit parts are often sold at lower prices but will be a lot more expensive because they will probably a totally waste of time and money and can cause more problems on the car. And do not neglect basic servicing (of the whole car), things like air filters and other stuff are often overlooked. Good luck.

Hello, yes sorry, in the UK. I've run some quotes through CarWow too and haven't had any response which also makes me think the dealers are being cagey about something. Earliest indication of delivery was September, nothing obvious in the current order books. Spec is looking like: Monte Carlo Red/Black 110ps 6spd manual Comfort Pack Winter Pack

White smoke is either unburnt fuel or coolant entering the combustion chamber, if the car isn't using coolant it must be fuel. Did the mechanic actually test the injectors, or just advise you change them? That is a big cost based on assumption by the mechanic. It would be worth checking all the glow plugs are functioning, I have seen it in the past where unburnt fuel from one cylinder has caused smoke on cold starts. It would be worth checking all the fuel/timing trims to make sure the fuel is being injected at the right time etc, maybe even pop a borescope into the cylinder to check the condition.

Mine is still in production 😁 I am hoping to get it in the next few months 😊 And it just plane simple Octavia 2.0 diesel with few extras...

It will be all pro's. Cut out the possibility of cons. Say where you are or how far you might be able to travel and maybe someone can recommend someplace to you. Start with a car well serviced, that is the engine and drive train. So an Engine with no issues. (If there are issues do not tune it until resolved.) Find a good reputable tuner, get the car on a dyno, have them do their remap and check the performance after on a dyno and the road. If there is not the gains you are paying for have them remove the remap.

I've just received a reply, and it's good news! They said, "I raised this with my Brand Support Team and they have confirmed that while the pre-facelift ŠKODA KAROQ did use wiring for the heated windscreen, the new facelift version uses ClimaCoat foil technology."

So, a log is attached from the first 15-20 mins of the trip down yesterday. You can see ambient was around -7. Aux heating was on for over 20 minutes before getting in the car; load doesn't seem to make much difference to heating speeds. Note also that oil lags way behind coolant. First few minutes is town driving, then onto the motorway, slowing for roadworks and then back to cruise clicked in. This was made with some excel magic (mainly the formatting of numbers) and Carport's logging. I note with interest that the speed is the correct GPS speed, not what the speedometer says.

Thanks to everyone who has replied so far, very much appreciated.

For a switched 12v, piggy back off the rear wiper fuse if you want permanent live (still on after the ignition goes off), piggy back off the fuse for the 12v accessory socket. Exact fuse locations are listed in the fuse diagram in your manual.

Didn't say it was 🤔 just confirming that N239 referred to in the 19561 fault code is known as the anti-shudder valve as @StevesTruck suggested

Whatever you do dont mention the war................

A couple from the Romney Marsh this evening. Weather wasn’t kind to me.

Fellow Aussie here. I have an RS Wagon. I put 95 in it and it runs just fine. I have never done the experiment of putting 98 in to see if I can notice the difference.

The maximum vacuum that can ever be pulled is one bar, the water pump generates a negative pressure many many magnitudes beneath that. The OP has no doubt been misinformed probably by the mechanics repairing the vehicle, he has come on here like most of us to become informed and often that involves being disabused of certain notions, I would suggest as a new member he be spared the ridicule. I get where you are coming from ApertureS and agree that Silkat contamination may well be causing all sorts of problems and that the sliding sleeve on the waterpumps great though it is when it works is a liability, when mine goes if its through a sticking sleeve it will be replaced with a non sleeve one and that is all that I would put on a taxi that usually only gets warmed up once per shift.

Air bnb?: Roof missing a couple of slates: Gaz

Couple of bits done recently... DSG remap to stage 1 - Amazing difference. Super quick changes and very smooth. Combined with the Engine remap... Superb! Rieger rear diffuser fitted. Custom exhaust made... originally wanted all 4 exits to work, but the Massive Ad Blu tank wasn't going to allow. So have a fakey exit and a real one. Upgraded the air intake to the Ram Air Pro version. I know it'll make minimal difference, I am aware of arguments for and against open cone/panel filters. But I like the sound, I like the look.

Don't have an iPhone, but a Pixel 6. This works fine, just keep it face-up, will charge through a case quite happily, not had to place it forward. Yes, it charges my phone not merely keep battery level even if using Android Auto. Never done a full charge, and never timed the charge so can't help on that. I have no evidence the phone box in any way improves reception, this is the UK so reception is naturally quite hopeless in rural locations.

Technically I now have most of what would be needed to convert it to discs, since it has the mounts for a set of calipers.

I may have been lucky but my years with the Skoda have been pretty much trouble free and the dealer has been excellent! (there said it). The one time it did have a fault (glow plug relay) they diagnosed the fault, ordered the part, serviced the car all while I waited. They even rang me yesterday to see if I had any problems after the yellow warning light had come on due to low oil. In all the years of car ownership they have been the best at the other end of the scale is Ford. As for the Tesla model I have read many of the horrors. It does seem they want to ship it out first and fix later. Some of that might be because they are relativley young company working out what infrastrure they need/works in each country. Fingers crossed.

Good point re WD40. I've used that once but other times used PTFE and also some 3-in-one oil (although that is difficult to get to the joint unless you have a traditional trigger oil can to drop it in the right place). I'd love to know what lubricant Skoda/VAG garages use.

There are two versions, the RZ231542 which is for the variable floor in the lower position and the RZ231541 for the variable boot floor in the upper position. The one you have is for the lower position. I have one for the upper position and I find the fit, quality and finish is more than acceptable. I'm now on my third one for each of the last three cars I've owned.

I just got an exciting update from Skoda. Apparently my car has now been built and is on a ship underway to Australia. The ETA for delivery has been stated as 14th July 2022. That is almost exactly 11 months after I placed my order.

I had an email from Skoda finance again yesterday, still no official release of the super fix everything update...

Last update for now. I've finally got the interior looking presentable. I've mixed and matched a few sets of seats and door cards to get to this stage. I still need to swap over some front seat base foams, but over all its 1000x better then the tip it was when I got it.

Took the Octavia to Snetterton for a track day. Had a great time and considering it's only the second time I've taken it on a track, I was really quite pleased with how it performed. I've recently removed the lowering springs, as I wasn't really liking the ride they gave out on the road, and put the standard springs back on. I've still got the Koni shocks on it and that combinations provides a much more comfortable and stable ride. Out on track it was so balanced and predictable and it never once tried to step out of line. Along with sticky track rubber, it was pretty great to drive. I had a slight issue early on as it was getting a bit warm and when the engine temperature crept up to the next line past 90 on the gauge, it would limit the boost until the temp dropped down again. Easy fix was to take the spot lights and front grille off to help get a bit more air flowing through the rad. It helped substantially and made the situation a bit easier to manage. As long as I kept smooth and tidy, it wasn't really too much of a problem for the rest of the day. Early on, despite being quite experienced at Snetterton, I've always been in a much lower powered car before so I had to re-learn the circuit taking into account that I was arriving at corners about 30mph quicker than I've been used to. Soon got the hang of it though and by the afternoon I was lapping consistently quick and tidily. Early Video: Later video: Thouroughly enjoyed the day and apart from the small temperature issue early on, the car didn't need anything than fuel all day. I also have it on very good authority that it spits flames when giving it the beans I did manage to crack the brake discs by the end of the day though, good job there's some spares in the garage. It's due an MOT next month but before that happens it's also due a service including cam belt and water pump. It obviously needs some brake discs and it'll probably benefit from a brake fluid change too. Tempted to put a fresh raditor on it too as the original is now 18 years old and is starting to show up a bit of inefficiency. So, plenty on the list to be getting on with.

Hi, can you explain how?. Do you need special android tv box? Thanks in advance

Higher revs mean more time spent in 2 cylinder mode in a 1.5tsi, so could/likely be more economical, depending on right foot.

Remember that you would only have to buy these lights once!