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The factory discount is achieved through never building the bloody things, meaning they never cost you a penny…😉

Would probably end up more powerful. 😊

Can’t believe my “new” car is now 6 years old and 80k miles! But anyway, yesterday I changed the DSG oil and filter again. A pretty straightforward job really, and I realised the filter can be accessed without having to remove anything from the engine bay. Also did the Haldex fluid and cleaned the pump filter gauze, which wasn’t so dirty this time. Ran the pump calibration.

You're not being thick at all. Infections in the mouth have a direct feed to you heart, which can then attack the heart valve and destroy it. This happened to me in 2015, a condition called endocarditis and eventually turned in to full blow septicaemia. Having a full mouth checkup, including differing types of X-rays, will ensure that there is no pre-existing or potential future problems and / or infections that could ultimately destroy a new valve very quickly.

In true 'Circle of Life' fashion we came across these just around the corner from the poor Swan VID_20220428_184748.mp4

Picked up some new wheels the other day, got a plan for Saturday to paint rear drums black and going to ceramic coat the alloys and got a little mod to lower the rear a small 7-8mm with some different rear spring mounts, should sit abit more level front back then

Top level Motorsport never equated to normal cars did it? BTCC has now followed F1 into building overweight, less raceable cars as a sop to the hybrid lobby. Based on the Donington evidence, the racing is now poor compared with previously. Alan Gow might finally have lost his magic touch; there's a good chance that a couple of seasons of this will ruin his long standing race series.

He'd have a 1.8T for a heart.

I dunno…. I’ve seen his work first hand so may be able to work on my heart 😛

My dad went through the teeth preliminary stuff, and also had to take Warfarin for life. Never had any problems with the Warfarin. I hope the ''Ross Procedure'' doesn't mean that Tech1e is going to do your op

I think most companies are going down the hub route now. (see the other thread about new hubs) Osprey are doing them, Gridserve (obvs) and Instavolt - MfG EV Power have adopted the filling station model it seems . Most recently Instavolt have expanded their Banbury hub and are about to open an 8 charger hub near me on the A5 in Corwen. Sure they are putting in single / double chargers some places as quick fixes as these often do not need new infrastructure from the DNO, but in general multi-charger sites are the new normal. 57p/kWh is steep and would put my fuel cost on the ID.4 about the same as my diesel costs would be in my previous Karoq 2.0TDi (based on £1.75/l). That's more than I want to be paying, so Instavolt will be near the bottom of the list of chargers to go to.

This year has had its fair share of cold mornings but not too much in the way of snow here. Granted that I'm a bit below you but I still think winter wheels are a good idea. I also clean the tread!

Instavolt announced another price increase yesterday. 57p/kWh from 4th May! https://instavolt.co.uk/instavolt-price-statement/

I just did mine again at 6 years / 80k. Much less black gloop than the first time, but still a thin layer covering all the gauze filter. Still well worth cleaning the gauze filter IMO. It would be an easy job if only the car was up on a lift!

Well all the bits that make up my "beginners polishing kit" have arrived, just got to wait for a good time and the nerve to tackle the job now 😄

It's also written on the tyre sidewall.

Hi everyone, when you own a Superb iV MJ 20 and above and have Canton as option, you may have discovered that it is not quite the best sound system around. The basic problem with this system is that the new designed sub for hybrid is not correctly fitted into the sound setting, Don't know exactly the reason where the error happened, but the sub setting is shifted in phase so it cancels out the bass between 40 and 50 Hz. (picture 3) Skoda/Canton is not aware of the problem and is not interested. Tried several times. No chance. A solution is to reverse the polarity of the subwoofer connector. The outer and the inner pair of wires have to change the places like this 1 2 3 4 | | | | 4 3 2 1 I made some adapters for plug and play usage, but you can do the switch by opening the connector and exchange the position of the wires. The other solution is to remove the "noses" on the connector and plug it turned upside down. After this modify the settings like in last 2 pictures, and enjoy the sound. Before changing the EQ choose preset "Classic" and turn surround completely off. Best bass performance is achieved when setting focus to driver and fader moved to the front and one click to the right. PS: this solition is working already in >60 cars up to newest production 02/22 estate and limousine, so yes, your car is affected and yes, it will improve the sound a lot. PPS: if interested in a plug n play connector - please PM. Unfortunately international shipping (from Germany) is quite expensive. PPPS: this is definitely not a solution for non hybrid versions

Last week I retrofitted a VC to my Superb 2.0 tdi MY18. Because the info on this subject is scattered all over this and other forums I decided to bundle it into a how-to. First of all a big thank you to RomanB, langers2k, Richie2019 and Camarao69 for the help with coding and with finding the correct parts. Before you start, make sure your car is able to do the retrofit. As I understand it, you will need a Mib 2.5 and also the correct gateway to be able to have a map display in the VC. If the part number of your gateway starts with 3Q0 it should work. Maybe also with other part numbers, but you will have to check. You can check the part number of your gateway with VCDS. What about Amundsen? I have read that with certain types of Amundsen it should also be able to show maps on VC. But coding is a bit different. And, as I don’t have Amundsen, I can’t really tell. I ordered the VC on ali: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001320853346.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dWnYaQ3 This VC comes with the optical MOST cable you will need for display of maps on the VC. Before you order, send the seller a message and ask for a discount. Also ask for him to declare a lower value (+/- 100 dollar) to customs. I paid around 60 euro import tax based on this value. If you have the CANTON sound system, you will need a Most splitter. https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001590588805.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dWnYaQ3 Or https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/33003652246.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dysj90l (about the MOST splitters: I ordered both, but you will only need one of them. The first link looked like the better quality item, but it had 2 male connectors and 1 female. What you need is 1 male and 2 female connectors. The VC came with a spare female connector, so I used this spare connector to convert the splitter into 1 male and 2 female. It’s easy, just mind the arrows on the connector. They depict the data stream direction. The item from the second link is ready to be installed and does not need to changed. However just eyeballing it, it did not look as good as the one in the first link.) Vag audio removal tools: You need 4 pieces. https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001502327510.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.61f03aa8VhZ892&algo_pvid=87f048ac-c0af-469f-a3a5-aa59929ac254&algo_expid=87f048ac-c0af-469f-a3a5-aa59929ac254-0&btsid=0bb0624716157231348261767efc60&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ Trim removal tools: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32963954415.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.477d61553u3Dn4&algo_pvid=40621dfe-6b26-4916-954e-3a1a0de8cdfc&algo_expid=40621dfe-6b26-4916-954e-3a1a0de8cdfc-0&btsid=0bb0623d16157232258103800e5d6b&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ And a Vas5054a for pairing the keys to the cluster via remote coding. Links to a Vas5054a come and go. They don’t work for long. Look on ali and read the reviews. Disregard complaints about the software as you will not need to install it. Often there are choices in quality. Choose the best one available. Bluetooth is not necessary, I just used a usb cable. And you will also need a windows laptop. I also ordered a screen protector for the mib 2.5 and for the VC. Just to protect them while do the installation: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32931529165.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dtJsu3p and https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001805982326.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dtJsu3p And of course you will also need a VCDS-cable or a similar device. Wait until the parts arrive and, in the meantime, find an online coding service for pairing the keys to new cluster, remove component protection and to set the odometer to the correct setting. I used: Vag retrofit and Coding. Telegram: https://t.me/vagretrofit Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/vagretrofitcoding/ Cost: 75 euro for 2 keys and 100 euro for 3 keys. Maybe there are cheaper/better alternatives, but this worked for me. The VAS 5054a comes with software. You do not have to install this software for use with a online coding service. You will only need to install TeamViewer. Before you start tinkering: Make an autoscan with VCDS and save the log to your computer. This saved my ass, because after the online coding of the VC, my sunroof lost it’s coding. With the autoscan available it was easy to fix. I also made screenshots from every byte of my old cluster, using the long coding helper (example, of just one byte, below) With this, it’s easier to setup the VC. See the service manual how to unclip the various trim parts. There is a certain sequence in releasing the clips. Before I used the online coding service, I installed the MOST cable. It was a pain. The wires behind the Mib unit in the glovebox were too short. So I needed to dismount the entire glovebox to get access.I connected the MOST splitter to the existing MOST cable and the new MOST cable. Removed the Mib headunit and old cluster to pull the new MOST cable in place. If you don’t have CANTON there may be a protective cover over the MOST connector on the Mib. After you have pulled the MOST cable into position, reconnect your Mib headunit. It needs to be connected while the online coding is being done. This it to remove component protection. Also reconnect your old cluster. You will need it connected at the start of online coding. I also tested my audio, just to be sure it was working after the MOST splitter install. A video which gives an idea how to remove the cluster: (the screws are behind the left and right trim parts. Not under the center one) A picture from pulling the cable: After all this you can start with the online coding process. Have all you keys readily available. It took 2 full hours in my case. When you install the VC, make sure to remove the grey protector in the MOST connector on the VC: After the online coding you can start your car, but your dash will light up with faults because of the lack of coding. Coding the cluster: I now took all my screenshots of the long coding from my old cluster to code the VC. Just one note: Leave Byte 0 bit 1 unchecked. It will give an ‘’entry out of range” error message if you try to code it. After you coded everything in, the error messages will disappear. Just take caution with your fuel gauge and make sure it is accurate so you don’t run out of fuel. My fuel gauge tends to read fuller than with the old cluster so I don’t trust it yet and may change the coding on it. Coding 5F (mib): Long coding: Uncheck byte 22 bit 0: Make sure MOST is on (for non CANTON cars) Byte 19 bit 5 Adaptation (5F): For imaging through MOST: - ENG122230-ENG142097-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-ability_switch_nav_maps,OFF - ENG122230-ENG122343-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-call_picture,On - ENG122230-ENG122341-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-coverart,On - ENG122230-ENG122340-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-crossroad_detail_map_compression_mode,H264 - ENG122230-ENG122344-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-crossroad_detail_map_resolution,resolution_3 - ENG122230-ENG127006-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-crossroad_detail_map_transmission_mode,MOST_streaming - ENG122230-ENG142153-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-dynamic_icon,0 - ENG122230-ENG127501-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-fastlist_most,On - ENG122230-ENG122338-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-navigation_map_compression_mode,H264 - ENG122230-ENG122339-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-navigation_map_resolution,resolution_3 - ENG122230-ENG127005-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-navigation_map_transmission_mode,MOST_streaming - ENG122230-ENG122342-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-stationart,On For the Virtual Cockpit menu on the MIB: - IDE11524-ENG137043-Vehicle function list bap 2nd generation: expansion-display_configuration_0x45, Activated - IDE11524-ENG137044-Vehicle function list bap 2nd generation: expansion-display_configuration_0x45_msg_bus, Comfort data bus - ENG122227-ENG142087-Car_Function_Adaptations_Gen2-menu_display_Display_Configuration, Activated - ENG122227-ENG142088-Car_Function_Adaptations_Gen2-menu_display_Display_Configuration_clamp_15_off, Not Activated - ENG122227-ENG142089-Car_Function_Adaptations_Gen2-menu_display_Display_Configuration_over_threshold_high, Activated - ENG122227-ENG142090-Car_Function_Adaptations_Gen2-menu_display_Display_Configuration_standstill, Not Activated - ENG122227-ENG142091-Car_Function_Adaptations_Gen2-menu_display_Display_Configuration_after_disclaimer, Not Activated Now restart the MIB. (hold power button until it reboots) You now have the normal dial VC: If you want to have the carbon look: 17 – instrument, adaptation: - IDE12467-Tubes illustration, Variant 3 - IDE02489-Display depiction, Variant 1 or 3 (can’t remember which one) If you want to change the end value of your speedometer because of reasons: 17 – instrument, adaptation: IDE13094-Tachometer end value. I used setting Variant 1 for 280kmph. Might be different for MPH. Trim Piece I needed I new trim piece which is now on order. As I understood the partnumber you need can be easily obtained. Note the partnumber on the white label of your old trim piece. In my case 3V0 857 053 N77. N77 is the colour code for my trim piece. To obtain the part nr for the new trim piece just add an ‘A’ after 053. So in my case: 3V0 857 053A N77 is the part nr for the new trim piece. There is also the possibility to fit new MFSW buttons with a VIEW button. - 3V0 919 719 E (manual) - 3V0 919 719 F (DSG) - 3V0 919 719 G (manual + heated) - 3V0 919 719 H (DSG + heated) I've been told that DSG versions work in manual cars and that heated versions work without heated wheels. I did not fit these buttons yet so I do not know if these part numbers are fully correct. If there are any omissions or errors please do tell. Also feel free to add more adaptations.

A few more from this evening (including White, Pink and Bluebells)

@jars @skomaz tha ks for asking and answering before i had to ask. it was new i formation for me too!!

And I guess that's the point where you can flip a coin or say sod it. You could for example say, if you don't pay out the £400 ish for belt n pump then you may last another year or two at least. Else if the belt goes it's not much of a value loss between scrapping for parts or big spend now to get your money back later. If that makes sense. Even more so on what may be a second car demoted to irregular use. As an example, my old Peugeot I put in for belt change, they didn't complete the job and said it would of been X amount if I really wanted it doing. I decided I could probably get a replacement engine for the same price roughly and as it was a second car I'll chance it. Approx 9 years and about 80k miles later it was still going strong when I got rid of the car at 215k miles on the clock. Another of my old cars, audi s6, I decided the cost if it went was not worth the risk so had it changed on schedule. It is a chance you take but sometimes it's worth it, sometimes it's not

Might I suggest Finnegan's Smoothrite; all the toughness, heat resistance and anti-corrosives of Hammerite, but in a smooth finish.

Same here... though I think you mean dealer discount. Pretty sure the factory don't discount them 😃.

Hi, after reading various horror stories about the silica bags splitting inside the coolant expansion tanks, and having a slight loss of cabin heat inside my Karoq, I decided to replace the tank, rather than trying to remove the bag and risk splitting it in the process. It's a really easy job to do and not really expensive - £33.29 for the tank, £7.44 for 1 litre of coolant. After replacing the tank I then removed the silica bag from the original tank, but fortunately it was still intact. It's made from fairly tough plastic/nylon , folded over and heat sealed along three sides, so you'd be quite unfortunate for it to split, although many VAG owners have had this happen. What was apparent was the amount of crud in the bag and in the bottom of the tank. VAG must be aware of the silica bag splitting possibilities as, as far I'm aware, they do not produce the tank with the bag fitted any longer. As the cam belt & water pump will be replaced at the next service (5 yrs) I'm not concerned about the coolant needing any other additions to mix. Even though it has not cured the heating problem, at least it's a relief that there isn't a bag full of silica balls swimming around the coolant system and heater matrix.

Never really been one for cleaning but as my jetwash hose burst it gave me the perfect excuse to get a new hose with a short quick release trigger and foam cannon. Also autobrite had an Easter sale so picked a few bits up. Doesn't scrub up to bad.

Edit - this is one by my wee brother when I sent him outside with the Sony Mavica because he said he was bored.

Very true 😁

Welcome. That is good because it is stored ready for an emergency. If you fit it and wanted to let it down a bit you can, but if the pressure is low inflating it needs a means of doing that. 4.2 bar is just an ickle above 60 psi.

Can i ask how much that plan is costing you? It was a Black Friday 2020 deal at £12.75 per month for 24 months consisting of one oil service and one extended scope with air and pollen filters included & at what age of car and at how many miles is your car now? The car is 4.5 years old and coming up to 39000 miles What servicing was previously done pre Extended scope and oil and inspection service? I've had the car from new, leased for the first two years on another Black Friday deal. Being leased, it was on variable servicing to start with and had its first oil service when the car requested it at 18000 miles and 18 months old. Covid meant I started working from home and hardly used the car. It was a relief when the car requested another oil service in April 2021 at 34000 miles and this was done on the service plan. The service interval must have been reset to annual servicing hence the recent service. Extended Scope comes up every 3 years. So would pollen and air filter get changed on all 3 year old petrol cars if the had a service plan? That is not to Skoda / VW recommendations or schedule. The pollen filter is due at 2 years. The air filter would be at the 2nd Extended Scope so at 6 years, maybe 60,000 miles. Looks like the service plan gives you more than the service schedule requires and I guess they've done the extended scope service with the filters early as this is included. I'm not complaining as I feel the car has been serviced appropriately for the use it's had. The next question for me is when and where to have the cambelt changed...

I'm always happy to pay for high availability, but 2 chargers is no longer enough to use for planned stops these days. As mentioned, only installing chargers is not ideal. They need to start installing batteries alongside chargers. I'm happy to pay the same or even higher price to support more battery infrastructure as batteries can help the grid, whereas sole rapid chargers are a large burden on the grid. Also sites with batteries tend to have more rapid charger installed, which increases chance to get quick charge. So Instavolt's recent price increase meant they need to evolve into a battery powered hub-like business model to get my money. Like the past year, I'll continue to plan my stops at sites with as many chargers as possible. Single or 2 rapid charger locations are the very last resort for me.

Pretty clear to me that the reason dealers don’t want general public knowing about these TPI/technical bits and pieces is because they would be swamped by people who have these issues but don’t Realise that there is a workaround. Thank goodness for these forums

Went to my dealer on Monday with the Unable to update maps OTA problem, was met with the same confusion and bewilderment as to how I had access to TPI, and was told I shouldn't be able to have it, showed the guy the Erwin Skoda site etc and he just couldn't believe it, anyhow the car was booked in Wednesday, and the update to 0304 done. This morning went out in car maps still on 21/5 drove to supermarket (12 miles) and suddenly the dreaded emergency sos warning came on, have not had it before but have had headlight wrong side warning, Parked up at supermarket and rebooted Infotainment system, turn ignition off, did shopping restarted car all OK, maps now at 22/3. will have to see what happens next, hopefully just a one off, just like the headlight wrong side 10 months ago.

Air and pollen filters are included in the service plan at the 'extended scope' service, had mine done last week.

The 10% plus 2 mph is at the discretion of individual Chief Constables, some forces have hinted that they might be applying 5% plus 1 mph.

Seems fair; also, maybe it's a comment on the Tv I was watching on, but I couldn't see these "hybrid activated" LEDs that the commentators kept going on about.

Sounds exactly like what I had in my 2015 1.6 diesel and the waterpump had to be replaced. The aircon being rubbish could be the burst silica bag issue but the temperature gauge going into the red then back to normal is exactly what I had before my waterpump was replaced. I was overtaking a truck when it first happened and when I pulled in the temperature went back to normal and I could drive to work. Any load on the engine and it would go into the red. Waterpump was replaced and the issue went away.

@Iggy_ZG so how does the Scala consumption compare to your previous diesels? I went from a 1.9pd mk2 Octavia, which I thought had excellent consumption, to a mk3 1.4tsi (both manual) and to be quite honest there was not as much consumption difference as I thought there would be. The petrol is maybe 1L/100 worse overall whether town or highway, but you have to drive to the respective engines differing characteristics, to get reasonable consumption. From what little I have read on the high gearing of the Scala 1.5tsi I am almost surprised you get into 6th at all unless on a highway. My 1.4tsi in 6th does does about 2100rpm at 100kph, what revs does your Scala do at that speed?

My bad then, thought that the AFS ones only do go up-down, then i guess looking at the sticker is the easier way, and using vcds/obd11 the easy way

How many km ago was the oil change done? You have a DQ200 7 Speed Twin Dry Clutch that does not require Oil Changes and which there are no recommendations, guidelines or schedule for oil changes. ? Did whoever did the oil change know their stuff, use the correct oil etc?

My Sportline 2.0TSI came fitted with them, so they should fit OK and theoretically should give a softer ride. There's a 3.4% increase in circumference, so you'll be going slightly faster than the speedo thinks, but since they usually over-read it'll probably balance out.

That’s the option only available for full led mattix lights which can be adjusted software wise

Thank you guys. I wouldn't normally spill my guts to the internet, but I had to do something in order for me to move past the initial fear and become the positive, cheeky chappie I need to be to get through this. Normally, I would bounce stuff off Zee, but with her being in work I felt it wasn't fair to drop it on her at that point. A positive mental attitude does great things. Much more than some people realise. After getting all that off my chest, I felt much better. Even more so after bumping into my consultant cardiologist on my way out for some fresh air. We had a very good and frank chat about all manor of things, which reassured me further. I also now understand that the deterioration of the Aortic Valve that was put in back in 2015 was expected due to they type they had to use for the emergency surgery I needed at that point. No time to prepare and / or set things up like they are able to this time. Shame they didn't explain that to us at the time as that would have saved a lot of worry and would have prepared us much better for the news I got yesterday. Oh well! @mac11irl Your post hit the nail on the head That's exactly what was explained by my consultant later yesterday afternoon after my above posts. And you're also bang on abut us men all too often putting on a brave face when we are feeling our worst. That is what nearly cost me my life back in 2015, which of course I learnt from and am now much more open about my thoughts and feelings. Not everyone likes that new side of me Thanks for sharing your experience @TMB and sending me some positive vibes 👍 That is also a very unpleasant and worrying thing to go through. Glad it all worked out for you

So, thats fitted, There is for sure an improvement. Scared myself the other day, but this is the fastest thing I have ever driven so don't really know any different! Fuel wise, without fail I get 380-440 miles on a tank. Economy is not really any different over all. Getting a tuning box like that though you WILL get invalid MPG's. Because those are measured based on the fuel injector values, and they are one of the values being fudged. So Im measuring by miles to tank whihc is always the same! Yes, when I get around to it I will! I have tested the cameras and they do work, just not in the right place yet!

Can't get your video to play, however at 12 years old it is highly likely that the battery in the alarm unit is defunct or nearly so. There will be a fault code stored on your car which may also show whether the alarm unit is an H09 or H12. The alarm unit can be replaced using the instructions in the link below. You can just open up the failed alarm and replace the battery but there is a high possibility the the battery has leaked and damaged the printed circuit board. Skoda want £274 for parts and labour to replace an H12 alarm unit. Recommendation is to change every 6 years. Alternatively, you will find pre-owned units advertised on line at around £35 and up. but chances are they will not last as they have been on a shelf for a while with no charge from a main battery and most are more than 6 years old. There used be a Chinese source but has dried up recently. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/500927-guide-to-repair-bosch-h12-alarm-siren/

I've been thinking about this. I think my older mkII Superb EA111 1.4tsi 125ps is fitted with a Single Mass Flywheel and I presumed the later more powerful manual mkIII Superb EA211 1.4tsi had a Dual Mass Flywheel. After a bit of research I'm now not convinced :- https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/03c105269p-flywheel-32125.html. Also I now believe the clutch slave cylinder is external on the 1.4tsi models so unlikely to be a hydraulic fluid leak issue. Probably unrelated but my previous mkI Superb 1.9pd (owned from 18 months old) had a bit of clutch judder first thing in a morning just after a service that went away after a few miles. In addition the oil level on the dipstick dropped fairly quickly down to half way then remained there until the next service. It was almost as if when full on the dipstick it was too full. When out of warranty and I moved servicing / maintenance to my local indy I asked them to slightly underfill when it was serviced I never had clutch judder again. I do wonder if there was a crank rear oil seal weep although it did it from nearly new.

I liked the forge gear but got tired of it pretty quick so going back to looking oem under the bonnet Still got some mods planned sports cat/panel filter/turbo elbow and will eventually go stage 2 map and anything north of 150bhp will be very happy with, not for a while yet though, they see around 155-165 normally stage 2

Fitted the rear arch liners off the gti today. started with a filthy arch Ample spraying with degreaser and a jet wash got them looking like this. then lined up the liner to drill the holes as mine didn’t have them being an early one. Was going to fit the inserts but found the screws hold in really strong on there own. Treated the drilled holes with hammerite and then waxoil over the lot. Only had some small spots where filler neck pipe bolts to body, around the neck was really good. I gave it a good going over with hammerite then some waxoil on that too. Then all fitted back on

Yes it clears the water but does not apply brakes so the car is not braking or possibly aqua planing. So really what a owner needs sometimes after a service of a car is a 2nd and honest opinion from those not up-selling in the way too many UK Dealerships do.

I have finally been able to measure with the iPhone app that I measured the other time on the same stretch of highway in Madrid (M40). Measurements have been 61db at 90 km / h, 63 dB at 100 and 65db at 120 km / h, it has reduced it by about 6-7 db on average, a great success. To be honest that stretch of road is smooth but the gain I can extrapolate to any road. Remember that I have done, not at a professional level, trunk, B-pillar, wheel arches, engine hood and all 4 doors. It is a lot of work and about 200 euros, but it is worth it. The biggest source of noise today is the rear view mirrors.

We looked at a Yeti but it simply wasn’t big enough for us..