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Hi all, Just wanted to share a few pics of my month-owned Enyaq 80x that I use for work. Being a farm vet's car, it's fully loaded in the boot with kit and has to navigate a lot of single-track roads and muddy/rocky farm tracks. It's been handling its duties very well and I've been very impressed with its off-road ability (at least equal to my previous Octavia Scout). Overnight charging gives me full range every morning and when on-call (and often driving / attending call all night) an hours break and a snooze at a 50kW charger (the fastest we have in Herefordshire) keeps plenty of range in the battery. I've also been relieved at how my farming clients have responded - the vast majority are fascinated and amazed that an EV can cope with the life of a vet's car!

I’d be more concerned that the car is slightly overpriced! 😉

That's all folks... Here's the replacement bus. I'm putting a few Superb 3T ancillaries in the for sale section, including K&N filter and a centre console armrest cubby tray if any current owners are interested.

Lost a bank passbook and my damn passport a few months back. Ripped the house apart, ripped the car a part or so I thought. I knew that if I found the passbook I’d find my passport, but to no avail. Ended up cancelling my passport as reported lost 3 weeks ago as I need it for a holiday later this year. Found it today inside the dashboard of my Octavia. When closing the glovebox the passport and bank book had tipped out and landed behind the glovebox inside the dashboard. So if you are missing anything, selling or buy an Octavia check behind the glovebox, you never know what you might find. ****ed off is an understantment.

I noticed in your picture that the battery technology is incorrect. It comes from the factory preset as " fleece " for an agm battery and I've read elsewhere that fleece should be the correct setting. I'm not sure what the difference is between fleece and binary-AGM and I don't know if that gives any cause to your issues but I've read in many forums that fleece is the VW term for standard agm batteries in european cars. I would definitely physically check the serial number on the battery itself to see if it matches your picture just in case your old battery was a Varta and the new battery hasn't been programmed properly.

"Short to GND" means no voltage present where voltage expected - most common cause is a blown fuse, next most common is a broken wire or bad connection, least common is faulty component.

You don't have to do that; what people are saying is that you should be rightly suspicious of a vendor who is reluctant to sell a car with a fresh MOT.

That is only to keep the MOT anniversary - A new MOT can be done ANY time, reluctance by the dealer to do this is immediate cause for suspicion.

That's not strictly true as it can be done at anytime! Edit:- Looks like George beat me to it

You can MOT a car anytime you want in the UK. Many are MOT'd pre sale to come with a new MOT. You can test one today and it can fail on a Major item and need to be taken off the road. Your 4th September date is to keep the MOT at the present & might matter to some who want to keep MOT's being yearly. Many are not as they are SORNED, off road being repaired, not MOT'd until 6 months late because of Covid rules that allowed that. I MOT a car before selling one, or when buying one if i want to know what to do to it.

As root suggests up there /\/\ the full dealer history does not mean it has been serviced correctly. Just means you have an accurate record of what has been done up to now. The MOT history looks like someone owned it who isn't a car person and does the bare minimum. If the dsg was not done at 40k it's a sign that it's not been looked after IMO.

It is actually possible to buy the channel from VW. It just pushes onto the bottom of the windscreen to be held in place. However, the mastic bonding the screen to the car prevents me getting the remnants off the back and therefore cannot get a new one on and into place. Simply, all I need is some sort of adhesive to keep the scuttle stuck to the bottom of the windscreen via using the overlap of about 1 cm. Good point about the Tigerseal. Other folks have talked about Windscreen fitting companies using a bonding material that locks everything in place for ever. At the moment I am thinking about a bead of Butyl tape. Very sticky and it should be possible to separate it if I need to access the ecu again.

Successfully replace the battery, thank you guys for advice. Only issue I ran into is one of the nuts fell somewhere into the engine bay, used chopsticks to retrieve.

problem with using tiger seal / tec7 etc is - you will never get the scuttle out again without smashing it. do you have any pics? it might be possible to get some thing made to fill the channel and let you reclip it. (3d printers to the replicate the original is what im thinking)

Me neither. My 2021Karoq did. Half the fun of a new car is taking the manual into the bathroom and reading it ‘til your legs go dead.

Glad not to be the only one that cleans / de- stones etc winter/ summer wheels at change overs.

If you are reading this post do not despair! The horrible burning smell coming from your new diesel car is OK. When you stop and turn the engine off and the fan stays on and the engine seems to be super hot, the car is OK. The above are clear signs of an active DPF regeneration and is normal for your new diesel Skoda car. To comply with the latest emission levels diesels have to capture the large soot particles and burn them up into smaller particles which are kept in the DPF, this process is called regeneration. A lot of regenerations take place during normal driving where the exhaust is hot enough to burn the soot in the DPF and are unnoticed and are known as passive regeneration. When the temperature in the DPF is not hot enough for an passive regeneration, the ECU injects diesel into the DPF which burns up the soot and is known as an active regeneration. When you stop the car part way through an active regeneration, often the car smells like it's burning and the engine fan will stay on to cool the car. Mods could you please edit this thread (if needed) and make it a sticky or just delete, thanks

They suit the car far better than I thought they might... Nice choice!

I've found it stick to most plastics yes so it should do but the plastic needs to be cleaned with an alcohol (isopropyl) wipe first.

Help us a little(!) what is the code?!

The ABS would trigger randomly when braking, the ECU thought the back wheels were locking up because they were rotating slower. Yes it was a Mark 1 with Bosch ABS, the same system as other Polo 9N platform cars. It was incredibly annoying because it increased stopping distances needlessly. It stopped when I got rid of the 185/65/14 for 185/60/14 all round.

They ALL have eyelashes, the question is only if they are LIT.

The specification of the COMET alloy rims is 6.5Jx16 ET43 5/100 57.1 They come in three different colours, as follows. 5J0601025L 7ZS chrome coloured metallic 5J0601025LA FL8 black metallic 5J0601025LB HA7 anthracite metallic (grey) 3 5J0 601 025 L aluminium rim 6,5JX16 ET43 4 COMET 5J0601025L 7ZS chrome coloured metallic 2003.10 - 2012.14 (3) 5J0 601 025 LA aluminium rim 6,5JX16 ET43 4 COMET CS0 5J0 601 025 LAFL8 black metallic MONTE CARLO 2001.11 - 2012.14 (3) 5J0 601 025 LB aluminium rim 6,5JX16 ET43 4 COMET 5J0 601 025 LBHA7 anthracite metallic (grey) PR-C6S 2001.12 - 2012.14 https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2013-697/6/601-601060/ 6Jx15 ET38 5/100 57.1 alloy rim (from Fabia MK3) One option, is to change to 6Jx15 ET38 5/100 57.1 alloy rims from the Fabia MK3. 185/60R15 would be a suitable tyre size for this rim. The standard 15" tyre and rim size for the Fabia MK2 is 195/55R15 fitted to a 6Jx15 ET43 rim. However, 185/60R15 is a cheaper tyre size and will ride a little better. https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/hlinikove-disky/c/alloyWheels?q=%3ApriceAsc%3AcarType%3AFabia%2BIII%2B%282014%2B%29&text=#

Makes a fresh MoT less of an issue, because he's not obviously trying to hide stuff.

If it were me I'd use 3m double sided automotive foam tape... The sort that is used for sticking badges on. I have a roll of the stuff and it's never let me down for that sort of thing

They look like the 16" Comet alloy, which this page would suggest is a 6.5J ET43 wheel https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/en_CZ/alloy-wheel-comet-16-for-fabia-ii-roomster/p/5J0071496H+FL8 As @KenONeill says - the information will be cast on the back of the spokes - that'll give you absolutely correct information. If you can't get the wheels off yourself, just hold your phone behind the wheel to take photos - might take a few attempts but you should be able to get a picture of the relevant bit of info.

Haven't got the camera and hardwire kit yet, but from some further research, the best switched outlet would be the rear windscreen wiper position while the best permanent voltage for the dashcam'sparking mode would be either the 12 volt socket position or the one for the car infotainment head unit. Anyone else want to correct me or provide alternative advice on that, please do.

I ordered it too. it looks great 😊 I ordered my car in the beginning of july 2021 for delivering august 2022. The dealer can not promise it will be delivered then....

Could also be an actual short to ground, say from water having got into the connector and shorting pins together. Or a bit of loom wire with insulation worn away against some unpainted metal.

. Thanks, boss. Not patronising in the slightest. Could have been, but I'm glad you made the effort to avoid it. This is precisely why I pay the closest of attention to everything you post, especially the ones with sneaky edits. .

G'day from Sunny Queensland, where it is currently raining Bought our first Skoda about 9 months ago. Octavia Style Wagon with Tech and Luxury Packs, Panoramic sunroof, in Velvet red metallic paint. The 1.4 TSI is quite a surprising little package. Perky and responsive, without torque steer - amazing for a FWD😲. All-round brilliant for a daily driver and country cruising. Looking forward to chatting with you all. The 1.4 TSI is quite a surprising little package. Perky and responsive, without torque steer - amazing for a FWD😲. All-round brilliant for a daily driver and country cruising. Looking forward to chatting with you all. Cheers, bvs

I hoped the same as you. Ordered in August and thought it would be a nice birthday present last week. Birthday came and went and my car never existed. At least some info would be nice, but noooo, Skoda gives no info.

I am wondering now if this is due to a faulty driver's door module. I'll take off the door card and check the wiring but maybe I'll buy a second hand module and see if that fixes things. Obdeleven can't communicate with it as per above post so if wires are intact this may be the next part to check.

Hi, all my rims that I've had done, have all been powder coated, it's an excellent way to go. Have been through many different colours with other cars, but have always come back to silver, I think its a classy colour and there are many silvers out there. Having said that, I was sitting in the car park the other day when a black car came by with black wheels, it looked really good. So that's my thoughts, you'll get others as well I'm sure.

I think their power gain claims are nonsense. A good remap on a 190 TDI will see c. 230 bhp. I've looked into it for our 190 TDI Karoq and having already had my 150 TDI Yeti remapped to c. 185 bhp. I've seen people claiming unattainable figures without a bigger turbo and larger injectors. Can I also suggest watching Darkside Developments' test of tuning boxes. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_sIRoPgFFI

Underbody rubber plug, stopper, 25mm in diameter. https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/n10246001-bodywork-grommet-bung-3232.html

https://www.lllparts.co.uk/en/product/bungs/mpn/N10246001 looks like the correct part

I just bought a big bag of the right size panhead screws and another one of speed fasteners off ebay ages ago. If you search for VW undertray screws, you'll get something the right size.

OP- On a technical point for removal of battery terminals.( From my days as a Telecoms engineer, with fore runner to BT, in old days when we had to maintain our vans and had to go through a safety brief with garage manager). To remove. disconnect the Black lead first. ( Battery negative), This breaks any possible circuit from the +ve to the body of car. Meaning that ( after negative is removed) the +ve terminal is left floating with no reference to the car body. To replace Connect +ve terminal first. Doing it this way means that ( once negative lead is removed), if your 10mm spanner( on the positive) touches body ,then there's no chance of a nasty surprise ( as in sparks and burnt metal). Ideally you should use an insulated spanner, but I've found on my 1.4TDi that a ratchet spanner from the likes of ECP is too short to cause problems. For the clamp bolt ,I use a long extension bar, but cost wise it might benefit you to buy a few short ones . Price wise, you may pay a bit more going to GSF, but I'm looking at an 096 battery prices, where they deliver free and for a Yuassa, with higher everything than one for a petrol car. First time I changed a battery on this car, I noticed a spark and was worried so I removed lead and checked the current. The spark is caused by ( what I'd suspect) is start up current for electronics starting up and reduces rapidly in less than a minute.Nothing to worry about, and as said, no chance of a shock.

Everyone is different shape. I am 6ft but have short legs and long back. Seat squabs are too long and at the wrong angle for me if not electric (still too long though, don’t know how very short people fit!) Seat backs tend to change angle for shoulder and head area too low and fixed head rests as used in sports seats are too low. Karoq is not as bad as some for seat back length and headrest can go high enough as not fixed. looking back I could never sit in a bucket sports seat even though most liked them. Too narrow, and back wrong shape, Holes for seat belts would be well below my shoulders if I used competition 5 point harness.

Sky reflections

Cheers mick glad to see yours is still going strong on stock internals aswel Hey guys, few bits ordered today for the dq250 as the dq200 does not have any cooler lines or interface in terms of cooling but the dq250 does it has a heat exchanger on top that connects to the coolant lines , but rather than butchering the fabia lines and having to drain all coolant I have decided to get an adapter plate and fit an external oil cooler for the gearbox oil this should help with continuous use and hopefully launch controls so it doesn’t burn the clutch plates out, have also got a better looking Dsg oil filter housing so when I drop and replace all the oil and filter I will also be fitting that

New LONGBOI plates for our longboi 😄 (the 6th "character" is the South Australia government logo)

As the others have confirmed the dealer is talking rubbish! I've got the retractable bar on. 2018 Edition. I've towed a 2010 Lunar Clubman and a 2018 Bailey Unicorn both with Alko hitch and never had a problem. If you have the reversing camera make sure you use the 'hitch' view when reversing up to the van and it's a doddle. When reversing the van onto the pitch release the alko clamp so that the van turns more freely and once in place apply the van brake and ease the car forward to release the pressure on the hitch, then it will unhook without making contact with the bumper

They are plentiful on eBay for under £200 per strut. It’s far nicer to have the power tailgate IMO, would cost you over £200 to swap back to manual struts if you had to buy struts, ball joints, a boot lock and a coding tool just for this job. I had one go on my Octy and it was a faulty hall sensor so I took the signal from the good hall sensor on the other side and repinned the connection. Free fix

I bought a 2006 Octavia that had had that issue from new, literally thousands spent over the years every MOT and service time claiming to have found and fixed the fault, even charging for a new airbag which I can state categorically from investigation had never been fitted. I removed the connector at the front of the seat rail and used Wago 223 connectors on each core but to my surprise the fault returned twice again and I was onto the merry go round of resets and wondering when it would happen again, then I found out that there was a second connector tucked up under the seat squab, I released the seat rails to tip the seat up to find it and there was indeed one and giving it a push & pull resulted in a satisfying click and the problem was finally resolved after 13 years! No question about the connectors under the carpet trim mouldings at the front of the seat rails are problematic but big feet pushing under the seat are equally likely to disturb the hidden unknown connector.