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Please change the profile data: "Model: Škoda Kamiq 1.5 DSG Style...waiting"

Self drive? You're having a laugh. I wouldn't trust it to drive to the end of the road, let alone any further. The sign recognition is great, until it picks up signs from slips roads, roads running parallel, at junctions (on the roads you're not going down)... and with that feeding into the predictive AAC (which is the main difference), it can get pretty random as to what speed you're going to end up doing. The bend/roundabout/junction bit of the pACC isn't too bad - it works from the map data so is a bit more reliable - but it's only really usable with ACC set to sport. In eco/normal, it slows down too much and too early (but with the ACC set to sport, there are other behaviours that I really don't enjoy like getting very close to the car in front before even thinking about slowing down, then hitting the brakes - instead of easing off the gas early and only applying a bit of braking if necessary when coming up behind someone). And the lane keeping doesn't seem to be anywhere near as good as it was in my old bear for some reason... and even with your hands on the wheel, if you're going along a straight bit of road it will moan that you need to take over the steering, even though no steering needs to be done! Fortunately, you can turn the p bit of the pACC off... but then why pay for the travel assist over just ACC? In my case, it's because it was the only way to get lane assist + ACC, you couldn't order the two options together so had to take the travel assist pack. Don't know if that's still the same or if one or the other isn't even available now...

I know this is an old Post but I just wanted to than Pete_Ex-Wino for the post regarding the Relay. My Brothers Fabia Mk1 Front Wiper motor stopped whilst working on the intermittent setting. I wasn't getting 12v at the motor even though I was getting around 9Volts. I checked the fuses an they were both fine So I tried a new motor and this didn't work either. which was half a good thing because I then tested the original motor (Should have done this at the start) and there was life. I tested the motor with a Dewalt drill battery negative to the negative terminal on the motor and then the positive on the other terminals one by one to make sure that all of the speeds worked. and they did so now I knew I have a good motor and the wiring must be okay to give me some voltage. I tested it with a good earth point to make sure that the earth was a good connection too just in case this was giving a lower voltage and all okay there. I then found this post . I could here the relay clicking when using the switch Stalk so thought that would be most likely be all okay at least one of the intermittent or something would work so it came to the Possibility of the Relay in the Control Module under the Dash on the Drivers side. My module is the same as the above images and Ibecause my brother had the car still I purchased a Relay the same as in the picture hoping that mine would be the same, After the relays trip from china I finally could try it yesterday and great news the Relay was the correct relay. just a head up the ++part of the Relay is the datestamp when it was made and so it will be different each time so the Tyco V23084-C2002-A403 With 10 pins was the correct one for me. TO De Solder the joints I had success with a solder sucker, I tried some solder wick but I couldn't get that to work very well, (I think it has been in the cupboard for too long) it took a while to get the solder removed and once most of the solder was removed I then started to puch the reylay through little by little to move the pins down and then the relay came out without any damage to the board.A cleanup of the joints and then a resolder of the new relay and test time. straight away when I put the motor in to test worked like a charm. saving a lot of money but also the hassle of getting parts for this vehicle luckily the motor was working because I could only find left hand drive versions of the motor which wouldnt fit. So thank you very much for people helping each other out on the forum and than you versy much to pete_Ex-Wino As a quick disclaimer, this was my brothers daily drive and It could have gone badly wrong if the board was damaged during the relay swap, they aren't bad to do as long as you have some de-soldering practice first the pads are pretty big to work on without getting worried they will come off with the heat. but also it would be easy to damage the board and then it needs a new board so be careful if you do replace the relay and make sure you have the relay ready to swp to save downtime on the car. but it was well worth it Thank you very much

Gz man, finally some new shiny metal 🥳 Too bad about the front signal lights, I hope they’re the only victim of chip shortage and the rest is as you ordered. Here’s to many safe miles 🥂

A few photos from Attenborough nature reserve this afternoon.......

A riot of colour at Clumber Park earlier

So relieved to see these two are doing well (the nest was attacked by a mink a few weeks ago)

Is it the wheel bolt that is missing or just the plastic cover? Thanks, AG Falco

That's the problem I was having. Apart from the curb damage by my wife, the diamond cut edges of the originals corroded easily. I think I've had some of the wheels refurbed 2 / 3 times now. Hopefully the change to all black powder coating will offer more protection.

Well sort of; it's usually based on duration or mileage, whichever comes first.

I understand your POV completely but the minimum unit for billing is one hour, so you're paying for an hour even it only takes five minutes. All professional services work this way, I'm amazed you haven't noticed, lawyers, accountants, heating engineers to name but three.

Yes I did. I used a 64gb drive format to NTFS

All done. What do you think? Before. After. The only thing I'm not happy with is the rusty inner hubs & calipers. Which means I might have to have a go at them myself. Other than that I think the wheels look pretty good & give the car a meaner look.

i'm talking about this is the last minute, keep in mind one year waiting time, to order car with that all obvious options, before Superb Mk4 will come in place, because all new VAGs are going to lose that options. 1. instead DSG gearbox stick will be installed small parody. 2. Start-Stop will be able deactivated only trough head unit sub menus, with lost physical button where then connect S-S Memory Module? -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/485940-memory-module-for-start-stop-button/ 4. i have tested several cars, BMW5, V90 CC, Tarraco, A6, Kodiaq, Enyaq, and none of them had this simple thing. this is must have option in longer trips. next 2023 Superb 280ps AWD L&K has been ordered to replace 2016 Superb 220ps FWD Style

Thanks thanks 🎉🎉🎉🥂 everything else is there…even the side assist and back camera…which to be honest I didn’t expect but I’m happy they are there…😉

I wish I never asked this question

What possible relevance can " timely engine oil & filter changes with good quality oil" be to a percieved misfire at idle speed?

Even if someone has pinched it I cannot do anything about it 😞 I just want to fix it.

The thread title is "your Fabia" but I'm throwing this in anyway. Spied this 1.2 Furby on a back street in Salou last week - The only Mk1 I saw. Definitely a lot cleaner than mine 😄

Ahhh you get used to that ....!! Don't take it personally ... I get great entertainment out of seps responses and the way things are at the minute we all need a bit of sarcasm and banter.

You mean a wheel bolt? Any scrap yard or dealer for VAG cars.

Set price doesn't have to be for any set or minimum time period. I could well be wrong as I don't know the rates in the area but £60 to around here sounds a bit low for one hour's labour. If £60 is too much then don't agree to the work and look elsewhere, simple supply and demand of business. ETA: Part-hour charging is (used to be) perhaps I'm out of date) common, I've even had it from a Merc garage, thank gawd I wasn't paying Merc labour rates as the quality of the work, and speed, was poor and done by the same men who done the work on the very expensive and cheaper Mercs, unfortunately the girl mechanic I'd spoken to previously couldn't be there on the day I was booked in for.

Just back from a few days away and on the 154 mile journey to the Cotswolds, the GTI got 48.5mpg. A fair chunk of it was M23, M25, M3 & M4 so I sat at 65mph on cruise, with the occasional blip to get past the people who overtook me, then slowed down. That's with two of us, luggage and a bike (folder in the boot). Not a bit like hypermiling, but I was quite pleased given I wasn't particularly trying. Gaz

I've just rang the dealership who did the service and they're going to take another look at it for me. They did the video of the undercarriage and didn't flag anything at the time. Thanks for your help.

Sorry you feel that way I thought I had offered help to you, no need to go off in a strop because we disagree on what's a reasonable charge. If you read another thread on here you'd understand the possible problems of injector swaps and the codes, as you were in business I can't understand how you'd think I was being silly about following up on the work of others you don't know and I very much doubt the garage is busy with putting in codes on other people's work. You must do as you please.

I'd think that there are safety reasons why VW Group would not include that possibility with a manual handbrake, remember on cars with electric handbrake, under a few conditions the "hill hold" will be converted to "handbrake on", and that includes driver's seat belt removed and/or driver's door opened and engine switched off - so you can't accidentally get out of the car with only "hill hold" keeping the car from moving. Edit:- I do agree that having one car with permanent "hill hold" and one with "hill hold lite" is annoying, but that is the way things are. Another Edit:- future project could be to retro fit electric handbrake, but that would cost quite a bit.

Have a look here: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/octavia/oct/2007-419/1/121-121052/

100% better than my Latvian !! 😆

extra - i just had a look at the mountain lake route, and the steep bit behind the lake hits a 39% gradient for part of it. any wonder me quads were roaring at me!

9 days later... i got out again on the Wednesday night of that last update, went to same spot, and ran the same route to the lake. sun was shining so i ran to the ridge side of the lake and climbed the rocks for some photos. then the phone battery died on the way back down somehow so the strava recording got all messed up. was out monday night this week, got to the lake, but used a short cut up the woodland, so i had enough left the tank ( i thought ) to make it to the peak of the ridge line behind the lake. well, it turned out to be a lot steeper, and a lot farther than i thought from the lake.. but i made it, in the wind and clouds... quads and calves were crying up there, but i made it home. tuesday was uncomfortable though! weather was shockin wednesday, so i got out but didnt go to the lake. instead i did a lap of the woods where we bring the boys walking. and... strava annoyed me by not syarting the recording when i started running, instead a popup info thing was there when i got to the top of the first hill and was crossing the road the first time... anyway, strava said i did 6, but i really did 7km.

Your English is great.

Also @Kelly_Heroes Edit inline, bold. There is only one wear indicator, on the LH front inner pad.

Took a little while but the car is back on the road and loving it. I ended up getting a second hand mk7 golf engine. Added full engine mount kit, feels better to drive, getting same times on draggy and the acceleration feels harder, win win win for me. 👍

It's an ATE brake system, so I would go with ATE brake pads. Build code 9U1 means with wear indicator. Build code 9U0 means without wear indicator. ATE 13.0460-7117.2 with wear indicator 1J0698151D 1LQ+9U1 (15) 1J0 698 151 D 1 set: brake pads with wear indicator for disc brake 1 PR-1LQ,9U1 1J0698151E 1LR+9U1 (15) 1J0 698 151 E 1 set: brake pads with wear indicator for disc brake front 1 PR-1LR+9U1 https://www.autodoc.co.uk/ate/956202?search=ATE Brake pad set (13.0460-7117.2) https://www.amazon.de/-/en/ATE-13046071172-Disc-Brake-Shoe/dp/B0038N2JLO/ref=sr_1_1?crid=C117WP4TYIDT&keywords=ate+13046071172&qid=1652997788&sprefix=ate+13%2Caps%2C58&sr=8-1 ATE 13.0460-7111.2 without wear indicator 6Q0698151 1LQ+9U0 15 6Q0 698 151 1 set of brake pads for disk brake 1 PR-1LQ,9U0 1J0698151J 1LR+9U0 (15) 1J0 698 151 J 1 set of brake pads for disk brake front 1 PR-1LR,9U0 https://www.autodoc.co.uk/ate/956196 https://www.amazon.de/-/en/ATE-13046071112-Brake-Pad-Disc/dp/B002FQU66A/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2KW1J45B8UJWU&keywords=ate+13046071112&qid=1652997831&sprefix=ate+1304607111%2Caps%2C62&sr=8-1

Got a bit carried away but hope you enjoyed them

God love this site lol. Information with the touch of humor/banter. It's never been better.

Another vote for rotating and replacing all 4 in 1 hit.

@duck Use the ignore function to remove unwanted guff.

How you doing mate? I managed to get a few friends to donate

Surely, with DSG when you stop you keep your foot on the brake pedal until you want to set off? That's how it worked with my previous Fabia with DSG and with my current Kamiq DSG. Alternatively, you can select N when stopped and hold the car on the manual handbrake until ready to set off, then select D releasing the handbrake as you do so.

Your current vRS is on PCH (or a lease) so its going to be financed by VWFS. If you have another car on order with any other VWFS company they will extend the lease indefinitely for you until the new car arrives. It does mean that you are responsible for any servicing and as its out of warranty now, fixing any issues that occur with the car. I was given the same option when my Audi was due to be returned but luckily didn't need it as my vRS turned up on time. It sounds like if you service it now you'll have it for almost 12 months. Maybe they will give you a discount on a service plan and free extended warranty if you ask nicely?

I have a 2016 280tsi currently at 26.7k miles. Does everything I need perfectly, I own it outright, so will just hang on to it until I cant buy petrol easily or affordably I guess.

If you want to drop me a message I’m in north London. It’s something I’d be willing to to offer and can guarantee it’s much cheaper than £800! or you can message my page on Facebook - Skoda Retrofits Another edit for you: I also offer the rear view camera OEM retrofitting - being local to you its something that can all be done in 1 go!

Each to their own Having just found this video now wondering if the problem is anything to do with the actual MC at all! Skip to 2 mins for the salient moment.

With a £12 Lidl oil vacuum pump no need to even go underneath and no drain pan to clean up. Used it for the last 3 years and no way am I going back under any more.

Ha, clutch has been performing flawlessly - until this morning when it stuck down at the first start of the day. It's now approx. 1500km since the last instance. Torn between living with it and replacing the master which I already have, it doesn't look that much of a task and know I should do it but I've become a bit of a lazy bas*ard not to mention that presently it's in the mid 30's here so if it's to be done it will have to be an early morning job. Ironically per my last post I also did my 110,000km oil change today. As an aside I must say that compared to my previous MK1 Octy, which was a PITA, at least until I cut a square out of the under body shield by the sump plug, on the Yeti it's a pleasure as the drain plug is completely accessible without having to removing a damn thing and the the dual drain filter makes it a mess free 15 minute job!

Loving it to be honest, the blue is a great colour but the grey would have been my second choice. I would want to fit new dampers, it's a 7 year old car and on 83k now so I suspect the dampers are past their best. But springs are on the list! After spending out on Carista I've realised it's very limited so ODB11 or VCDS are on the cards. I need to replace the rear light clusters as they have very weirdly crazed so looking at later LED units which would need coding. Any settings for LED bulbs too. And the Audi throttle adaptation (if it works)

And this is why the site asks you for a location and vehicle details; So that we can know whether advice is relevant to where you live before giving it.