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After 15 months of waiting... Finally arrived Superb Sportline 206kw. Dad's family car

...well after 2 years of looking and procrastinating our beloved 2015 1.4 L&k Yeti is gone. After much searching and many test drives we have now part exchanged for a pre-registered Kia Niro. In some ways not really a patch on the Yeti, but has some usefull features and I really wanted an auto box, (and a 7 year warranty helps ease the pain of transition!). Nothing I tried came close to the practicallity and "quality feel" of the Yeti which will be much missed, although concerns regarding the eventual possibility of a pan roof failure, and a few other problems that had started to become potentially costly concerns? The things I prefer on the Niro are the auto box, fuel economy, (first 50 mile journey from the dealer showed 65mpg on the computer), although the 1.4 returned 44mpg (actual) over the 4+ years we had it), and adaptive cruise control, 7 year warranty, no potential pan roof problems. The things in the Yeti's favour are practicality whike being relatively small, (seat removal), comfort, "quality", (feels very "soild" compared to more modern offerings), performance, loads of extras on the L&K although some not used, (auto parking....why????). If they still made them, (or something very similar) it would have been a no brainer to simply get another one, (auto). I even thought about trying to get one of the last 2017 SEL Drives, but they are now 5 years old and I didn't fancy spending that sort of money on a VAG car with no real warranty. I can say that to date, the Yeti has been the best car I have ever owned!! ...so goodbye to this forum and thanks to all for all the help over the last few years....and if you have a "good" Yeti, then I would strongly recommend keeping it as long as you can!!

Same issue here, car is VW Polo 1.2-2002 (9n). I soldered all those connections, and Immo works now ok! Thanks everybody, very good topic!

They do but there's no harm in spraying another load in there, I did all of the sills front to back on the yellow one and the wheel arches via the blacking gromets under the rear arch liner. Every bit helps and all that

I guess you’re one of the extremely lucky ones 😉

Got back home last night just in time to catch a lovely sunset

Easy USB Power to Central arm rest console. I hate cable mess so having to loop around a cable to the rear 12v plug or have cable mess up the front gave me the sh#ts and early Superbs don't have power to the central console. So something had to be done about it and I didn't want to have to graft onto wiring and pull the whole console out. Decided to have a crack at it with some ribbon cables. Took a punt and guessed a 50cm USB-A (male) to USB-A (female) cable from AliExpress might do the trick: I removed the rear ashtray drawer (pull right hand side up and out and then slide the left hand hinge out to the right) and removed the felt liner of the central arm rest console. Using some string with a loop and a wire coat hanger i threaded the string back to the rear opening and threaded the USB cable through to the middle hole in the central console: Then shrink wrapped the female end to make it look nice and protect it a little: And then simply replaced the rear ash tray drawer with the cable over the top and plugged in a 12v dual USB socket and plugged in my USB cable. Works a charm and still leaves the kids a rear USB charging socket for long trips. When i get round to it I'll shrink wrap the rear USB plug to protect it from the kids and make it look a little cleaner. Turns out a 50cm ribbon cable is the perfect length for this. The cable behaves nicely with the opening of the drawer and gives about 15cm of lead in the console. When not in use it can easily sit down in the lower tablet space below the trap door too. Apparently the cable is good for up to 5A when lengths up to 50cm are used, which is more than it'll ever need to carry to charge the odd phone or my ear buds.

i ordered my RS in October 21 and received it end of January.. ticked every option box bar the sunroof.

First visit to Durham today - lovely place 👍

The option can be found under Vehicle -> Interior -> Instrument cluster -> Eco tips. Then there's another one in the Assistance system's settings somewhere.

Whilst I would once have completely agreed that is exactly how Rustol is used and it stops further rust in its tracks, I'll add the qualifier that if the metal is perforated then it must be used on both sides. Whilst I was cynical at first I have used in on rusty subframes and a cast iron garden fontaine that had a really nice rusty patina from new but was continuing to rust and in both cases it sealed out the air and moisture completely and stopped further rusting. The restorers of Rat Rods spray Rustol or clear coat over rusty panels. So I would not say its a waste of time reapplying cavity wax inside sills that have some internal rust and would lean towards agreeing with "every little helps"

I'd try the front to rear tyres suggestion already given. Also check you're not close to a steam railway track.

I'd have done exactly the same, and with the advice you've been given, I probably wouldn't go back either 🙄 Gaz

Not a strange question, just throwing it out there. I had some time on my hands this afternoon and perused my local Skoda dealership and enquired about a Yeti trade in. Yes sir I was advised Yeti’s are desirable, so I looked at the second hand stock. What a boring pile of metal. The Scala was nice as a small estate care. There was a lovely Kamiq with a sun roof Monte Carlo ( enough said) . I looked at the Karoq our nearest equivalent and even entertained the Octavia estate. Then I got back in the Yeti and thought “ what a nice place to be”

Quite a nice sunset from Beachy Head tonight: Gaz

discs obviously won’t stay black it’s just the anti rust coating from ebc

@nta16 This was my first flood experience with a car. I have no one around to show me the ropes. I keep every advice as a precious gem. Thank you.

Here’s mine after 10000 miles 2.5 bar Goodyear. 1.5l sel

Inductive charging = Heat Its one of the downsides to wireless charging. I believe if you search around the forum a bit then some people have modified the charging base and cut the contacts for the centre charging coil leaving only the 2 outer ones, this reduces charging rate but reduces the heat output too.

Cavity wax is only any good if the metal is already sound before it is applied. If the metal is ruting from the inside-out it's a complete waste of time putting wax over the rust.

The link to the antenna above will work fine, thats what skoda supply with the RNS315 aftermarket kit, and as mentioned put it inside the dash and all is good for GPS. The standard radio antennas already in the car should work fine. Is it DAB ? if so you will need an additonal antenna for that, OR fit a factory AM, FM GPS, DAB, GSM shark fin on the roof in place of the existing antenna and run the cables to the headunit. Regarding the sound system, the factory speakers are pretty good, they just need a good unit to drive them, the RNS 315 has brilliant sound "imo"

Hi Gaz, I think that is the way the fixed brake pad is supposed to work - correct gap would be critical.

I used to get the nagging eco tip to turn stop/ start on in my Kodiaq, and never even crossed my mind to look for a setting to turn it off till I read this. Thanks, nagging eco tip now gone,

I did that (16 inch with Cross Climate 2 tyres) as soon as I acquired my Kamiq SEL in April this year. Didn’t run it long enough on original 18 inch wheels to make any proper comparison but what I have got feels excellent re noise and comfort. I chose alloys similar pattern to original. Will be interested to hear your comparison.

Thank you for the help and information! 🙂

I had a woo woo sound that defied all reason, it was checked by two garages who could find no fault. At the last MoT the techie noted an advisory "Nearside Rear Road wheel slightly distorted" That one was taken off, the spare put on and the noise disappeared

Hey thanks for your reply, so I’ve just had a look, I re adjusted and checked it was secure, all seems to have clicked into place, I believe it was all good before but I will see if perhaps this has solved it and will have to update later once I drive it, thanks again.

Hi, welcome. Have you checked that the seatbelt adjuster is fully locked into position (3 IIRC). From the owners manual. -

Yes, You are absolutely right. But I reckon that in each case for 18'', 17'', 16'' wheel height of rubber are fixed (due to producer recommendations). And tire pressure as well - fixed So it remains to "play" with weight of rim + tire. Original Kamiq rims are beautiful in terms of design, but too heavy IMHO.

I would consider a mid range brand of all-season tyre. Whilst the Michelins are undoubtedly a good tyre, they are pricey. If you can have a look at Vredestein quatracs, they are a great tyre and will be cheaper than Michelin.

Check your brake light bulbs and brake fluid level.

Little point in guessing, get it scanned.

A gas spring is very unique in that it has a very high preload with a by comparison very low spring rate, this gives them the ability to work over a very long travel without the force going up massively. As they get old and lose pressure the initial preload reduces until they will no longer support the tailgate, new gas springs will always feel much stronger than the ones that they replace Another phenomenon is heat, I replaced the tailgate struts on my Yeti a couple of years ago, the force of the new ones was correct, initial force to overcome the preload high then a gradual increase which is not felt due to the geometry, there is virtually no assistance at the slam point. This summer and especially in the 40° plus heat at my new property in Nouvelle Aquitaine I have found that after leaving the tailgate open for a long time it takes a huge amount of initial force to get the struts moving, once moving the force and resistance is as it should be. @TheClient The force measurement is Newtons, Newton metres is a measure of a turning moment or torque. Divide Newtons by 10 (actually 9.81) to get the force in kgs (actually KgF)

Stunning

The Minor horn is likely to draw significantly more current than the puny little part it is replacing, so rather than doing a straight swap I decided to switch the Minor horn via a relay. The obvious location for this new relay is alongside the radiator cooling fan relay, which is on the bulkhead, beneath the scuttle, on the nearside between the battery and the inner wing. Anyone who has read this thread all the way through will know that wiring is my thing, and as such I was unlikely to take the simplest route to implement the relay circuit. I have uncovered a few nasties during previous forays into the Caddy's wiring, so I thought I would probably find something else worth sorting if I had a look at the loom including the wiring to the horn, and so it proved. I disconnected the wiring from the offside headlamp unit and indicator, as well as the horn, so I could pull that section of loom to the top of the inner wing where it would be easier to get at. This was then relieved of its wrapping tape back as far as the junction with the indicator repeater wiring. This showed me that there was a grey cable which had nowhere to go at the front corner, plus a similarly unused earth wire, and that something else had been spliced-in between the sidelight and main beam wires at some point. The unused grey wire is likely to be for foglights, which I do not have and cannot fit due to the FMIC, so this was removed, as was the stub of cable remaining from the spliced connections. This left me with some (probably fine, but unsightly) solder joints in the main beam and sidelight wires. More on these later. The horn had been mounted on the inner wheel arch adjacent to the top mount, although the wires were wrapped within the loom all the way to the front corner, so once they were unwrapped they were plenty long enough to go across the bulkhead to the new relay coil, with no extensions required. There was easy access to a fused 12v supply for the feed side of the relay contacts, so I just had to run a new cable from the other contact terminal to the new horn, and make use of the previously unused earth connection exactly where I needed it in the loom. Things were falling nicely into place. It generally feels like that in the moments before you encounter a problem. With the connections all made, and before I put any effort into making things look right, I re-fitted the battery and plugged-in the Minor horn. When I then pressed the horn button; nothing. A quick investigation, partly using a test lead I made from the wires previously spliced-in to the headlamp cabling, confirmed my new circuit was working fine, but the horn about which I had previously made the "not much to go wrong" statement had in fact found a way to go wrong. I took the horn casing apart again, and this time I dismantled the little sandwich of connectors and insulators which I had previously left alone. It took me a couple of goes to work out what should be connected and what should be insulated, but then I cleaned all the contact surfaces with some emery paper and reassembled it. Once re-connected to the pick-up, the horn now operated as it should on the push of the button. Lesson learnt, I will try to avoid tempting fate with bold statements in future. Back to the spliced solder joints in the main beam and sidelight wires. I could have tidied these joints up, or re-insulated them with tape on the basis that they have not given any trouble up to now, but I have a few bits of Felicia/Caddy looms kicking about, so I found another offside headlamp loom, and extracted the terminals with lengths of white and green/red cable I needed to do a proper job. Once the replacement terminals were fitted into the headlamp connector, I cut the original and replacement wires and made soldered connections in the part of the loom which will be supported, and wrapped in tape. This obviously looks better, and also decreases the likelihood of these joints failing due to mechanical stress. While the loom was unwrapped, I replaced conspicuous red insulated crimp terminals on the side indicator repeater with soldered joints, and relocated the inner wing grommet where it was supposed to be, then I re-wrapped the loom. One of the jobs on my to do list for the Caddy is to shift the coolant header tank. This is currently on the offside inner wing in the front corner, as can be seen in the photo above, which means it is roughly at the same level as the cylinder head. I want to put it in the offside rear corner of the engine bay, which will allow me to make it the highest point in the cooling system, as it should be. When I do that, I will locate the Minor horn in the space at the front corner which the header tank currently occupies. The modified horn wires I have put in are for its eventual location, so I made up an extension loom reaching back to the rear corner to accommodate the temporary location for the horn fixed to the top mount / strut brace mounting bolt. The new wiring achieves my aim of being pretty inconspicuous in the engine bay.

Thank you for your straightforward answer, which was what I was after, either there is no problem or there is a problem. I have never seen tyre wear like that and so, understandably was concerned and had imagined that another forum member with a Kamiq might have had a similar concern and so could provide an answer.

Simples; the code for your car stereo head is held by your car's BCM and no other. The radio simply won't work without recoding if it is put into, say, my car.

Correct, but for the average person after swapping the battery over they don't need to enter a code to get the radio working. Thanks, AG Falco

I changed from the standard 18 inch alloys to 17 inch in my Kamiq SEL and there was a marked improvement in ride quality and noise reduction. I am currently in the process of having 16 inch alloys fitted, Dezent TR in black gloss, with Michelin Cross Climate 2 tyres. I'll report back when they are on the car.

18" on my Monte Carlo, the ride must be good 'cause my wife doesn't say anything (the seats are super as well) I can also compliment the handling. Downside, the tyres may be more expensive.

I went for the Gendan option. Thanks once again

If it helps anyone I created a 3d-printed wireless charger holder for my 2021 TSI IV front tray and iPhone. I made two versions, one for an eono charger and one for an Apple MagSafe charger. Works a treat and a damned sight cheaper than the original option. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5180289

@R_Bluefrom the way that video looked you were driving too fast and too close to the van in front for the very wet conditions. Being further back you could better see when the van went into deeper water and also not be affected so much from the water disturbance the vehicle in front makes and bear in mind the van sits higher than your car and engine bay. You don't want to get stuck behind or with a driver's vehicle that doesn't know what they're doing and/or doesn't exercise enough caution for the prevailing conditions, moderns drivers don't adjust enough, often not slowing down, as they think the vehicle will cope the same in most conditions. We all make (many) mistakes but when you can try not to be too much of a modern non-thinking driver.

Tranquil evening..........

It is unlikely to be anything other than the wiring loom. Often the cables are still held by a part of their insulation so intermittent operation is common.

Spot on Mike. I am one of those owners who had the Haldex pump fail despite rigorously sticking to the Skoda servicing requirements. It was only after the pump failed (when I had assumed servicing was being done correctly) that I found the Haldex Repairs website and the truth became clear. I too had the discussion with my local Skoda dealer and they were adamant that it wasn't in the 'system' and isn't a part they recognised. Hence all they do is drop the fluid and refill with new. Pointless when the filter and pump strainer are blocking up. I now get an independant to do mine every 20k or 2 years approx as I really don't want the cost and hassle of another pump replacement. The same place did the repairs and I bought the pump, filter etc from the supplier you mention. The Haldex servicing nonsense is almost on a par with the emissions scandal, plenty of Haldex equipped Skoda's out there that will likely be knackered..... As you can guess I am pretty bitter about the whole thing lol ! Great post and I hope others pick up on it. Cheers

In my experience with the sill rust with the cars age now the factory applied stone chip is a problem. Where the stone chip ends you can have surface rust and what i found was that this had spread under quite large areas of the stone chip. Water gets in between the sill and stone chip and is rusting away unnoticed The stone chip can look fine but when in my case having a scrape of the surface rust next to the stone chip quite large areas of the stone chip could be peeled off showing at this stage as surface rust. Basically there must be alot of cars where the sills look good which are rusting away under the stone chip which you will only find out about when it's too late.

They also like to rust on the tailgate around the number plate lights. Also seen it happening on much newer Skodas. Here's a pic of a 2015 Superb....

@Croat Thanks. Your typo. 'No' Scout on the UK market.

Hello, So, the manual states: So this implies to me that I can put a FLAC file on a USB or SD card, plug it in, and then my Columbus system will play the file in 5.1. Great, I have a collection of 5.1 audio at home so why not rip it and get it working in the car! I tried it with my Tubular Bells 2003 (ripped to 5.1 FLAC from my own DVD Audio Disc), and it didn't seem (to my ears) to do anything apart from downmix it to stereo.... This annoyed me and I set about trying to find out what settings I needed to get this working properly. However, the problem was not the system. It was the PICNIC* who was trying to operate it! These were my original sound settings: Canton Optimisation: Front Canton Surround: 0 Canton Subwoofer: 7 I downloaded some 5.1 test tones from this other forum: https://www.quadraphonicquad.com/forums/threads/multichannel-test-files-flac-with-various-channels-sample-rates.24032/ Popped them on an SD card and trundled out to the car again. I picked the 192/24 folder and played the Channnel Test 5.1.flac file and to my astonishment, it played on all 5 channels clearly, but the rear channels were really quiet (maybe 2 * quieter than the fronts), so the TB2003 file was playing in surround, its just the fronts were drowning the rears out and so I thought (incorrectly) it was downmixing it. 😖 So I headed in to the sound settings, and started to balance it all out for my cloth ears. I ended up with the following settings: Canton Optimisation: Front Canton Surround: 7 Canton Subwoofer: 8 This is now very balanced for my ears and surround channels are clearly discernable and work in unison when required. My mistake was, I assumed that Surround "0" was "normal" surround, and that a +'ve figure would bring the rears up to louder than normal settings (the manual states that -9 is "stereo" and +9 is "full surround") However, this is correct but the "normal" surround is so quiet I thought it wasn't working. So ... happy days, all sorted. But I didn't stop there. The manual also stated that the following formats should play: MPEG 2 & 4 (aac, m4p, m4a) at 320kbit/s (48 kHz) Vorbis (Or ogg as its more commonly known) "defined by the format" (whatever that means) So I tried them. I converted my source TB2003 audio to 5.1 Apple Lossless ALAC (m4a) which played perfectly even though the system stated that it would only support m4a at 320kbits and makes no mention of ALAC. I also tried 5.1 aac (apple vbr) at 320kbits, this also played in 5.1. I tried Ogg Vorbis, full quality setting which resulted in a file of 1439 kbps, this also played in 5.1 fine. So you can rip to lossy 5.1 if you so desire and want to save a few MB of space (i'd stick with FLAC or ALAC though personally). So, I hope this helps even 1 person to save some time and settings when trying to get 5.1 audio working on their car, i've been trying to suss this out on and off for a week or so. Now I can rip the rest of my DVD / Hires audio collection ready for the car... Next thing to try is to stop it from pausing between tracks for a brief second without combining it in to one large file... Maybe ALAC will help with that? Cheers, Slick2097. * PICNIC = Problem In Chair, Not In Car / Computer (delete as appropriate)