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It’s a miracle!!! Or it sounds like it. I got confirmed estimated (lol) delivery date from leasing company! September 27th is new estimate for delivery. Got plate number also but no vin. That would make one year one month and one week.

I ordered 2 weeks before you did and last week I was confirmed week 37 as build date (next week). I suppose yours won't take much longer. 🤞🏼

Make sure you get a few quotes for the repairs rather than just going to the nearest body shop. Wouldn't want to get fleeced!

I'd like to see ewe do better.

I got a mail today from the dealer, that I am unable to change the rims on my order anymore. Car is planned for production, but I don't know exactly when. So maybe you are on to something with your statement @SpanishJose.

I've received the VIN number and my skoda app is showing the car as "inactive". Current status: awaiting transport

At least that what happens with a Mk 1 Octavia....................and I'm just presuming () a Mk 1 Fabia will be similar

so... if the connector is disconnect could you lock the door from inside and then leave the car and use the central locking to lock the rest? Thanks for that TMB. I'll give that a watch.

That was a baaaaaaaahd joke

wee beastie

I'm not having much joy in sourcing the documents or official advertisement for the leather seat upgrade 😌 I have found the original part number for the upgrade though: Part No. ZGB6Y0061625 Reference: Leather Seat Trim Upgrade I did, however, manage to get my hands on one of the seats!!! An upholstery company based in Leicester where replacing their display seats and they had one of these vRS leather upgraded seats on a display plinth! I am putting two & two together and reckon they were the upholstery company that provided Skoda UK with the upgraded seats upon request. The guy who I dealt with didn't have any background information but is going to see what information he could pull together from his colleagues 🤞 I have a limited edition Fabia vRS and I can tell you this upgraded leather seat matches the quality in every way - it is the exact same apart from the red piping, green stitching and minus the embossed number. I also made contact with Skoda UK and was told to contact the Parts department @ my local Skoda dealer who could check the part number. I did this and indeed it brought up the reference as "Leather Seat Trim Upgrade" however there was not documents etc attached. So, yeah, if anyone has a document, screenshot, email, .pdf of the original promotional advert I would be so grateful!

Ohh there are far bigger ones, climate change, religion, life after death to name three...

Try checking 1K8 955 435

Hi, in advance, sorry for my bad english, but i try my best! In our Family we have among other things (three BMW e30, e34 540i, Polo 6R) two Fabia MK I, one 100 HP Tdi with over 360.000km and one Fabia RS, both with P-Box-Tuning. The Fabia RS is modified with 215/40 on 7x17 "Spider"-Rims (Octavia 1U), H&R-Stabilizers, Wheel Bearing Housing from Audi S1, Big Master Cylinder (23,81mm), Lucas C41-Caliper on Rear Axle etc. The other Fabia has 7,5x16 with 195/45 @ Front Axle and 9x16 with 215/40 on Rear Axle, H&R Cup-Kit etc. Have a nice Day Richard

A diesel engine would not suit us as our journeys are usually short, potentially giving rise to DPF problems. Our Yeti (diesel) was used for the same type of journeys hence the figure of 16p/mile quoted: we live in a hilly part of N Yorkshire. Plus I had to take the Yeti on high-speed runs to regen the DPF.

Picked up my Model Y LR on Saturday from Staines-upon-thames delivery location: A lot of cars parked in a dusty car park. Many car wash person going around cleaning seemly random cars, probably the ones about to be delivered. All is well with my one, nice and clean when collecting. Go to reception, quick glance at driving license and I was asked to sign for delivery. I wanted to inspect the car first, so the person unlocked the car remotely and waited for me to finish with inspection. Once I was happy, I went back to him and signed for the car. Then drove home, nice and simple. There's 7 days / 100 miles to report anything. No rattles. That afternoon, I gave the car a blast of water and very detailed wipe-down. No condensation in lights, seal issue or paint defect that I can see. Only downside I can say is that given the empty parking spaces further down the lot, cars doesn't need to be parked like regular car park. They could have parked the cars further apart to allow easier inspection. The ride on standard 19inch is softer than my 18inch Octavia. But there's more sideways movement on large one-side bumps. I'd still say Leaf deals with large pot-holes slightly better. But on faster roads with clear markings, this is a pleasure to drive, or rather, sit and monitor. I've experienced 2 or 3 unexpected braking but all instances due to TACC picked the a car on the side rather than the car I've been following. No unexplainable "phantom braking" yet. I'm learning which type of road can smoothly use TACC and auto-steer. This car is said to be vision based, no radar, so completely different to radar only ACC on my Skoda. Also need to see if I tweak the warnings, there were a few instances where the car deemed avoiding parked cars and driving on the center line is incorrect and beeped at me, which makes my passengers unhappy and nervous. Integrates well with Home Assistant and I also spun up TeslaMate for trip logging. So far it's averaging ~3.5mi/kWh over its first 120-ish miles, even mix of careful local roads, spirited driving on back roads and motorways. Overall, very happy with the car. With Tesla I can now sign up for Octopus Intelligent for 6 hours of 7.5p off-peak AND more hours should I plug in the car at low SoC and request high SoC over a single night, just need to hand over charging to Octopus. The car is also able to trickle charge at any power level, I think I can also use Home Assistant to charge as low as 1 amp and trickle charge via excess solar (once I get around programming it).

Different options could be quite misleading since different countries have different gadgets as default. I had thought of making comparison chart of default options in different countries but its way too much work. 😂

Maybe the most simple way is to calculate cost per mile rather than mpg. This would mean retaining all the accumulated charging costs for all your usage during one full tank of petrol, and add it on to the refuelling cost. If you don’t include charging costs, it’s like starting the day with a free gallon of fuel that you don’t need to factor into your mpg costs. At least at the end of that period, you’d have an accurate cost per mile that you could then easily compare to typical diesel or petrol variants of the same vehicle. the problem will soon be that pure electric miles will cost more than pute petrol ones once the new energy price cap comes in, in October.

After 13 months waiting my SEL iV Plug in Hybrid arrived. All seems good with it so far, just to understand some of the infotainment features!

Need some spikes on the wheels for Blair 😉 Neighbour had a good experience with Cazoo but not sure if they operate with cars that sort of price. In general I'd suggest avoiding anything French, it's not a joke they just don't last that well. I had a 2004 Renault and it basically disintegrated over the 4yr I had it, and that was from new. Anything that age will break and need repaired so aim for something that is easy to get parts for and plenty people know how to fix. VAG group is always a good bet there. Toyota can last well into old age and high miles but repairs are a little more expensive.

I'm still on the middle of refreshing the suspension, but been trying to get some use out of the car while the weather is good. It looks ok from 10ft after throwing a bucket of water over it.

Im already up to 16 months, and still counting for a vrs iv, also a company car. it’s tough, but what alternative is there? I’m not sure there’s a manufacturer out there at the moment that can honestly supply a new car within what used to be considered a reasonable time frame. I’m sure things will get better for you. Personally, I’ve found depths of restraint I haven’t experienced since waiting for the lego set my mother left in plain sight in the run up to Christmas back in 1989 i hope things get better soon for everyone

ah, thanks, that's quite important knowing that.

Here's a video of lock unit replacement....

Hi, I've just bought my first Skoda, a 2007 Octavia VRS, I'm hoping to use it fir some sprints and hill climbs as well as my everyday driver.

You have to un-deadlock it first as per sepulchrave or ( if lucky ) prt57 Once its undeadlocked then you will need to get the door card off regardless of if its to replace the lock or just disconnect the connector to the lock

It wouldn't be able to be locked with the key. Turning the key actuates microswitches to trigger the locking motor which won't happen with the plug disconnected from the lock unit. The door would be permanently unlocked.

Thanks that link was handy to know, it's to sort an extra key out, but it's starting to look like it might be cheaper to just go to a locksmiths or buy a key clone machine from eBay, its just the transponder I need coding. I'm not fully clued up on VCDS still learning, so probably as far as I would go just yet lol

Hello Johnny Gaz

A 2008 Roomster 1.9TDI has 288x25mm front brake discs according to Jurid on autodoc. It's a TRW brake system. Later Roomsters from around 2011 used an ATE brake system when they were fitted with 288x25mm front brake discs. Do you have front brake pads with or without a wear indicator? Both types are available. You can check that you have 288mm front brake discs by measuring them. The only other Roomster size was 256mm, so it's easy to spot the difference. Front brake discs 288x25mm (for 2008 Roomster 1.9TDI) 8 1J0615301R Brake disc (vented) D >> - 24.05.2009 288X25 2 8 6R0615301A Brake disc (vented) D - 25.05.2009>> 288X25 5/100 2 Front brake pads (for 2008 Roomster 1.9TDI) 12 6Q0698151A 1 set of brake pads for disk brake 1 PR-1LN+9U0 12 6Q0698151C 1 set: brake pads with wear indicator for disc brake 1 PR-1LN+9U1 https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/RO/481/6/615/615025

I was going to put I just hooked you up with the info but apparently hooked up means something different in modern parlance. In case you can't see it my tag line is - Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If you've got a standard car (with standard hubs, and I'm not sure why they'd not be unless it's a track car) then standard specification wheels for your model will fit without modifications. There's a wheel 'Width & Offset Calculator' on that AlloyWheels.com site. 225 or 205 is the (nominal) (cross section) width of the tyre in millimetres measured from the tyre’s inner sidewall to its outer sidewall, so 225 is 20mm wider than 205, in itself it doesn't mean a lot but it will also relate to tyre 'profile' ('aspect ratio' - tyre sidewall height in relation to tyre width as a percentage) in tyres available and specified for the vehicle. - https://www.uniroyal-tyres.com/car/tyre-guide/tyre-knowledge/what-does-tyre-size-mean If you have the "168 hp | 125 kW | 170 PS" version then the tyres on that site (which I've just noticed you can notify them of any mistakes) have the 17" wheels with 225/45 ZR 17 tyres, if that confirms with the Owner's Manual then that's the size to go with. HTH, if not just ask, but bear in mind I'm not an expert - other than being expert in not being so. 🙃

Hello roottoot, My car is on variable servicing. Had the car since Jan 2021 done 7600mls. I am due to go to Scotland for my 2nd road trip, the oil service indicator has been lit up for 2months so thought it would be good opportunity to get 1st service done. No software update due to the factory (skoda) being off line. Car going back into garage in October for the updates. Reading interim service it seems I may have paid a premium for very little work carried out.

Leave the carpets out and try and see where the waters coming from.

Just a reminder. Often you can wiggle the disc free without removing the carrier. The rust might prevent it but give it a try. Also, these bolts for the brake carrier are single use stretch bolts and are meant to be replaced after every use.

Could you perhaps change to different 18" tyres if they're recommended as being quieter and more comfortable? Now I've put that, what I think - even 17" wheels are oversized in my opinion but it's been the fashion for decades now to have oversized wheels and silly low and ultra low and over-wide tyres, especially given the quality of our roads let alone the noise and 'rubber' bits polluting (relatively) more. See here for info on wheels and tyres (I do not know the accuracy but I trust you check any information you get, particularly off the net, down the pub, or from me). - https://www.wheel-size.com/size/skoda/superb/2011/ Have a look in your Driver's Handbook (Owner's Manual) and see what the alternatives were. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models I'd stick with what Skoda specify as that's what the car and all the computer programs have been design for. As you probably know one of the great joys of 4X4 (often another fashion accessory to me) is that's it's best/necessary to change the tyres in sets of four to help the transmission/drive and keep the computers happy. If you want to learn more have a look at the 'Features' links at the bottom of this Homepage for various calculators that will show how to get much of the information (if you don't have the manufacturer's recommendations). - https://alloywheels.com/ There are sales facilities on this site that you can use to sell your present wheels and tyres. Good luck.

As you can see in the chart below, 5Q0411105GM is an L07 front spring. If you are finding the standard front springs too soft, then 5Q0411105GP might be a good choice. If you have a look on autodoc, you will see that 5Q0411105GM has a wire diameter of about 11.25mm whereas 5Q0411105GP has a wire diameter of about 11.75mm. This will make the front springs about 8.3% stiffer. Front ride height might be increased slightly, but only about 3mm higher if your current front springs are still in new condition, ie haven't started sagging yet. Superb MK3 front springs (not complete list) 1 5Q0411105GM Coil spring 1 paint mark 1 paint mark blue Grey 2 PR-L07 1 5Q0411105GN Coil spring 1 paint mark 1 paint mark green white 2 PR-L08 1 5Q0411105GP Coil spring 1 paint mark 1 paint mark green yellow 2 PR-L09 1 5Q0411105GQ Coil spring 1 paint mark 1 paint mark green orange 2 PR-L10 https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/SUP/851/4/411/411010 5Q0411105GP front springs Eibach R21459 KYB RA1344 Kilen 25122 Lesjofors 4095136 https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/5q0411105gp?search=OEN+5Q0411105GP&supplier[0]=85&supplier[1]=246&supplier[2]=112&supplier[3]=253 Kilen 25122 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353523619148?epid=251911246&hash=item524fa6554c:g:spwAAOSwSO1iMcO6&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoOyxhGHUx%2BEWeCtBRibt4RugYd13k2DNu6GizHNnip4b%2Fe95s8EAylV9UeMUpBCv6m1NwUEd0OEjNOmjAhbN10K9hV6g7Ifo6C%2BFZW9rLkMSViYajeq%2BTcZphmwmnOOehLhDcbCqsVxbB3pqRkrQA7rLl9NvJGPxIbKxvYNbedrIpbK%2BVrHZYTGY1Ej0sVaioLEhs8o85a8zqrUNo3fDClQ%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_bKlq7iYA If you don't carry much weight in the rear, you might not need stiffer rear springs to match the stiffer front springs. Howver, if you do want stiffer rear springs, these should also be available. If you want to find the OEM part number for your rear springs, getting a copy of your car's build codes is a good place to start. There's an ebay seller who can supply the build codes for about 3 Euros. Search "skoda vin options" on ebay to find the listing.

Almost certainly one of these. Almost certainly rather than definitely. The one in the link fits the rear carrier bolts on a 2021 Karoq, and while it's more than likely the same bolt, it'd obviously be best to check. .

Hi! After 20 years driving VW, I have gone back to my roots and have bought a Skoda Karoq. My first car was a Skoda Estelle, things have changed a lot since then! Gill

Look like 18" replica of Hartmann HRS6-204-GS https://www.achtuning.com/hartmann-hrs6-204-gs-19x8-5-et47-wheel-for-audi-and-volkswagen/

But to be fair, my Octavia, (SEL 150 TDi) so car for car, is only costing 11.6 p per mile as I get 70mpg routinely on my journeys (65 mpg over last 10000 miles so 12.5p long term including town driving) and diesel at £1.80 litre which should get better not worse unlike electricity costs. If Diesel drops to pre crisis level of say £1:40 it will cost 9p a mile to run...... The average cost of fuel for the year I had the car prior to the Rus-Ukr war (2021 - Feb 2022) was £1:25 litre so it averaged at 8.7p per mile for the first 5000 miles I ran the car. For me I have saved a lot of money by having a diesel over hybrid for my journeys, a hybrid would have cost me a lot more in fuel (both types). As ever its all about how you use the car, so to put it in perspective a friend has a Cayenne Hybrid that his wife uses for work, hardly ever fills it up, probably averaging well in excess of 200mpg based on electric 95% time, but when we both drove to the Alps and back this summer he got under 25mpg for the 1700 miles and I got 65mpg.....

Looking at the wet grip rating on "all season tyres" theyre worse than original summer tyres and some budget replacements i.e Nexen. For 9 months of the year according to my local met office station, my average temparatures are over 10 degrees. Thus I compromise 2/3 of the year if i buy All seasons. - File under snake oil if you live in England. My next tyres will be Nexen Fera saving me £30 a corner against the bridgestones, and £80 a corner vs cross climates.

I posted my answer before I had finished typing! I meant to say that the quality of the brand new cheap EBay locks is terrible. It’s luck of the draw if you get one that works properly and then they don’t last long. Better to purchase a genuine known working example.

As @Tellmentions above, I seem to think that Columbus units from that year had to be updated with a DL DVD. The contents might not be the same as what’s in the download links too. Does @MartiniBknow anything?

As another option to try which has helped with the locks on my Mk 4 Golf when they have played up. sit inside the car in the relevant seat and repeatedly thump the area of the door where the lock is situated with the side of your clenched fist. At the same time keep on pressing unlock repeatedly on the remote whilst a couple of people operate the inside and outside door handles. Sometimes the thumps on the inner door are enough to unlock it. Don’t lock the car again until the lock is changed and the quality of the latest ebay

Yes, it is possible to get the door card off with the door closed, removing the passenger seat makes it a lot easier, it'll take you about ten minutes to remove all the seating except the drivers seat, that way you can work with the passenger rear door open and nothing else in the way. Remove the door card and window carrier, then you can smash the plastic lock casing to get the deadlock to release, once you can open the door it gets a lot easier.

I've been following this thread for over a year now and share many of the frustrations posted. But thought I'd post some good news, ordered a blue VRS back in June 2021 (went for quite a few options, including the DCC, heads-up display and Canton sound system). So after 14 months finally got word the car has been built and finished at the factory, the ETA is start of October. Been a long wait and hopefully worth it, fingers crossed more people get positive news soon too 👍

Just buy a universal one off of eBay same size as this https://rtmgperformance.com/collections/intercoolers/products/rtmg-universal-aluminum-front-mount-intercooler for £100 with better flow … as that what you have listed is essentially a universal intercooler cut in half

Avoid these like the plague IMO/IME. Horrid little cars, at least from a reliability point of view. That's purely anecdotal evidence, mind you, but I've known a few folk who've had issues with those.