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Just like the 195/55/13's on my old Renault 5 GT Turbo, thirty-something years ago - they were ridiculous, due to the fact that the R5GT was the only car that they were standard fitment on.... 😲

Perfectly normal in the circumstances you discribed.

Music now works, I love it 😍 finally 😁 Not sure what I did apart from connecting to car wi-fi, maybe that was all that was missing. I drove my teenage daugher to school this morning (the only one that isn’t sick at the moment) and she’s beginning to grow on her as well (she would have picked a black car 😉).

So I fixed the issue and I want to share how I did it 😁 I bought new part. Factory installed module V426 was number 5Q0907511A but part available in official distribution currently has new number 5WA907511C (note, that I write about part for Denso HVAC unit). Removing the dashboard is not required to replace V426/V428 module (in LHD vehicles) although the official service manual begins with this step. Access to this part is possible from the bottom - under steering column or as you prefer: above pedals. If you want to do that without removing the dashboard you should remove knee airbag (mounted on 3 torx screw) and next: remove left footwel vent (mounted on only one torx screw). You don't must unplug knee airbag, you just need to unscrew it and rest against on the center tunnel. When you remove this two parts, you get access to problematic servomotor. Be very careful when removing screws from V426, because when they fall, it will be very difficult to locate and remove them. With the screws removed, you remove the module from the climatronic mechanism axis, and then you need to unplug the plug - a small screwdriver may be useful, but there's not much space to work with both hands. In fact there is no space, so you have to work in a truly paralytic position. When you disconnect the plug, the module is ready to be removed. I have one advice for you: before you start unscrewing the module, restore power to the car and turn on the ignition. Next, turn on the ventilation and switch the airflow directions (face, feet, windshield) looking in front of the removed footwell vent, watch if the flaps inside the HVAC unit moves when you click the buttons on the air conditioning panel. In my case, the flaps were dead. Mounting new part - now the true play starts. Step one: connect the plug to new module but not try to mount it yet. Next: turn on ignition and try to choose combination of climatronic switches to set up new module in position which allows to to mounting its on axle of HVAC unit (in other words: you have to set the new motor in the same position as the old, disassembled module was in) When the axle and new part is synchronized, you mount servomotor on the place. Then you screw the motor with two screws: at the bottom and top. Installing the top mounting screw is dramatically difficult. Putting the top mounting screw is so heavy because there is no space at all to grab it with even two fingers. A moment of inattention and the screw drops, and its find is another challenge. When you screwed the motor with the two screws, turn on the ignition and check the flaps again during switching the airflow direction on the air conditioning panel. In my car the flaps came to life. You will also need to perform adaptation and read errors from the HVAC controller. The adaptation can be started on the air conditioning panel - turn on the airflow: to the windshield, to the legs and to the face vents, and then press "AC" + "front vents" buttons at the same time for 3 seconds. When its finish again check errors in HVAC module and clean them. If adaptation was finished correctly errors shouldn't back. During adaptation you can observing via left footwel vent that flaps are working right. At the end you mount again footwell vent and knee airbag and are you going for a test ride to testing that HVAC works right. If you unplugged battery you should also make test ride for few km's, next check and clear faults in all car modules. In authorized Skoda service center in Polad repair of this issue costs about 450 EUR (with dashboard and central tunnel removing). I repaired myself this fault for the price of about 70 EUR 🤭 However a lot of self-denial is required for made it. Good luck 😁 and sorry for my English...

If it makes you feel any better, one of my backplates was scattered along a main road when it decided to let go at 60mph.

Knockhill 2011 Ginetta - the images are a lot sharper if you click on them ...and a bit later

I will check later on my test rig, but I think it's probably normal for you to see the voltages that you do there, until you start pushing/pulling the switches, at which point the voltages will decrease to either zero, or somewhere in between 11V and zero depending on which way and how far the switches are moved. You will probably find that the middle one and possibly the lower one of the three pins that you have measured at zero volts show a voltage if you put the car's lights on. That's the feed for the LED lighting of the switch panel. I've yet to see any motor modules that have gone intermittent because of brush/commutator problems. It's no doubt possible, but the usual failure is with the electronics module above the motor.

Thank you for your kinds words, guys. Knew I should have ventured on here sooner 🥰 The quack put me straight and told me to give myself a break too. I am trying, but can’t help but to push! Bizarrely, also tend to forget what I’ve been through 🤪

So i got a call from the Branch Manager. A nice call with him apologising for my disappointing experience with the Servicing at the branch. Seemingly there has been discussions regarding what i put in the customer survey. Things clearly went wrong at various stages from the booking to the collection of the dirty car which was not ready for collection really. (I am to blame for the dirty car being handed over when it is going in for an inspection, but it was horrible weather and dirty country roads taking the car in. that is my excuse, normally i hand in clean cars and say do not wash them.) So someone might have had their ear chewed, and maybe really the staff have been told to get their act together. Then there is the fact that they have Corsa Electrics as Courtesy Cars and there was no need for all the nonsense with Motability getting the RAC to arrange a Europcar Hire car for 7 days from Perth delivered to Dundee. (Or RSA the insurers for Motability calling me to see what accident i was in that required them to provide a hire car.) Now waiting or still waiting on Motability responding to the Survey they sent me & which i responded to, then there is the one that Vauxhall sent to me on the performance of their Dealers and the cars. Maybe my language was a bit too explicit for them.

Because the Sportline is all looks, comes with uncommon tyre size for looks and vanity is expensive. The versions with smaller wheels use common tyre sizes that are cheaper. And if your local roads are more ruts and potholes, rather than as smooth as a billiard table those with deeper sidewalls ride much better. Uncommon tyre sizes have other problems, lack of choice, unlikely to be any in stock at local tyre centre if you have a puncture etc. If it annoys you plenty of other size wheels available, see attached (and then compare the price of the tyre size 215/55 R17 for the 17 inch wheel to your size) https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/639a0118-4da5-446b-a786-86e1f789b57b

I think it's more to do with popularity, some sizes fly off the shelves while others sit there gathering dust, popular sizes tend to be cheaper and those sizes tend to be OE fitment sizes, tinkering about changing one dimension slightly can make a tyre much rarer and therefore more expensive.

It is possible that reduced diameter is for the older model Favorit - there were changes on the front axle on 1993 model, although I'm not sure if there was a strut diameter change, too. Post 1993 models had the same knuckles as Felicia - and based on VW number, R_Blue's strut is the newer variant.

Jeez TM, I think you can knock apologising straight on the head! After the rollercoaster you've experienced, I think anything is completely understandable, PTSD and anxiety included. I see the same positives than yon Pete sees, steps are good 👍 I'm two years past my hip surgery, but I know the pre surgery warnings about dislocation risks are holding me back, even if they're now unrealistic. And I still stumble with the mindset of being reluctant to walk any distance, based on pre-surgery concerns about pain, even though the hip joint's titanium and ain't gonna hurt. I berate myself for my irrational behaviour. My circumstances pale into insignificance compared to yours, so I think you can afford to cut yourself some slack and allow the rollercoaster to find its way to happier undulations. All good wishes for your ongoing recovery 👍 This sounds like it could be fun. It's a bit of a trek, but I could be up for it, according to what kinda ammo we're allowed to play with, and whether you're allowed to retaliate. Was the offer only open to TM? 😁 Gaz

Unlike me, who was all around and telling the world as soon as I got some bits of info 😎😊. This evening I spent about 30 mins studying the infotainment, still a work in progress 😁. Had to skip my usual ride to work though due to kiddos being sick. But we have enough time, as long as she’s parked at our home 😍.

Guys, after less than 15 months of patiently waiting for my car, D-day has arrived today.🏆 It is a bitter-sweet moment, though, on one side and at the same time, a birthday present to me (BD tomorrow) 😀. It was worth waiting for it. At the beginning of this week, the dealer called me with surprising info that I could pick up the car this week. I didn't even get the VIN. It was more than a year since I placed the order with no information; in August, the info foresaw the build date in September and an estimated delivery date in the 41st week of 2022. But it arrived a bit early, just for my BD 😀. I hope and wish you to get some positive information and surprises with your orders, as I did.

Morning All, another new year to Skoda, this time with an Enyaq which is our second EV and are very pleased with. Thought it would be a good idea to join a forum like this as it’s such a new car and there’s still lots to learn and be developed. So I’m looking forward to sharing some experiences and understanding some of the niggles along the way.

Here is the data for my particular model which shows only 14 out of 16 still on the UK roads. https://www.stillontheroad.co.uk/cars/SKODA/SUPERB/SUPERB-LAURIN---KLEMENT-TDI-CR

I'm terribly sorry, I double-checked the translation. Install a 5Q0 411 303 AC front sway bar where the tie threads are inside the pipe, I put 3Q0 411 303 J on it which is exactly the same as the thinner one I removed 3Q0 411 303 C. The joints fit well and in a workshop specialized in suspensions and wheels (they have a competition section and exclusive cars) they said that there was no problem. The difference is less than a centimeter. The links fit well and don't rub on anything. Changing the stabilizer bar would cost me more than 300 euros. I know that the correct thing would be to change it, but I want to know if there could be a problem like that or if I could put some washers to try to remove the link from its original position, as long as the link itself allows it. This is what I should have put: and this is the one i put: The handling has improved a lot, the car rolls a lot less, it drives better. Both the front and the rear are from the Golf R VII, but for the front there is a thicker reference to the Kodiaq, Arteon, Passat. Thanks in advance. This is how it is installed now. After several hundred kms it works very well, there are no swings or friction with parts and perhaps the only problem may be shortening the life of the linkages. If anyone knows anything else please let me know. Once again sorry for the translation.

No water pump needed as cam belt does not run on it.

Sounds like a sticking water pump impellor sleeve could well be your intermittent cooling issue. There's no way the load on the engine was more with an empty trailer than a full one. I'm not sure what functions you get with OBDeleven but with VCDS you can activate and deactivate the water pump so you may be able to excercie it with the engine running (it uses the water pressure to move the sleeve) and free it off maybe??

Prices were crazy, but seem to have started coming down. Bought our 2016 280 L&K from Arnold Clark in March 2020 for £17,995 with 40,000 miles. Similar mileage / condition cars were £25k a few months ago. A few minor bits have needed doing, but as a family load lugger it is excellent. I couldn't recommend it more for family abuse - the leg room in the back is epic as it means the children struggle to reach the seat in front to kick you 😉 The massive boot on the estate version is also handy too. More details on my project build thread.

I've just learnt to unplug the USB adapter whenever I'm leaving the car for more than a few minutes.

Been to Skoda garage now. They couldn't fix it and say it needs a replacement 'online control unit ECM', which has been ordered and likely to take another month to arrive. They seemed to think the crash/failure was probably caused or linked to the SOS emergency fault that lots of people with VAG cars have reported. I had it intermittedly before and have had it a bit more often since the system crashed on 31 August...

@Vlady Sorry. you have a Dq200. ? Who offered to remap and give up to 340 Nm with a 1.5 TSI running on 98 octane petrol? The UK Super Unleaded bring 97 or 99 octane minimum.

Good luck 🙂 Those lights are flaming expensive and also the fitting and alignment is a major undertaking. Another option..... If you noticed these cracks following an event like driving along behind a tractor and you recall that all sorts of stones were thrown up in the air then your comprehensive insurance may cover it also. Maybe even a smart repair from one of the windscreen firms for £50???

Ken, you’re always excused for not saying more

The DQ200 is designed for applications up to 250Nm torque. That's probably a conservative limit but 340Nm sounds a bit much to ask of it ! edit : roottoot beat me to it

Thanks for all of the replies,I will see what happens at the MOT next week.

with them being only (40s) i could drive over a match and it would feel like a speed bump ha ha cheers kev

I think I need a new phone to help me take some better quality photos.

thanks a lot !!! will post result after map update

I've done 35k kms in my 2.0TDI 4x4 110kW estate this year alone. It was on 116k at 3.5 years old. It had been serviced at Skoda and was a company car (previous owner had "Fleet" in the company name, making it pretty clear). Had an MoT fail at 3 years due to a broken front spring. Next failure is the rear passenger door lock, but aside from that I can't fault it. Now 4.5 years old, next MoT / katsastus in spring. Needs another oil change and Haldex. It's a great milemuncher, I tend to do 500 miles in a day to the office and back. Trying to buy a replacement: I would get a similar price to what I paid; looking for a lower mileage with similar kit says €7k more (25k€ vs 32k€). But they are incredibly expensive in Germany right now (even more so than here!). I got a great deal on the trade-in, so I'm not too bothered. Consumption is around 5.6l/100 under optimal conditions and the long term average is in my sig. Bear in mind I really do do 250 miles at a throw and it's relatively low speed (mostly 50-60mph limits) with minimal traffic or town work, so I figure this is pretty much as good as it's going to get without slowing down some more, increasing tyre pressures and deliberately driving for consumption. What surprised me when I looked is that there really aren't that many rock chips on the front of the car; obviously it wasn't motorways. There are some huge gouges out elsewhere but the paint is surprisingly good for a Skoda, minimal swirls and scratches. Interior scratches easier than I would like (one of the deco strips on the rear door has a black stripe somehow) and the kind-of-OK Xenon high beam has been supplemented with a Lazer Linear 18 Elite, meaning it really is a pleasure to drive at night now. What would I upgrade now? To leather / alcantara - with memory would be nice, so my offspring could drive with their own settings - and a rear camera. The audio I've handled, and aside from Android Auto needing a cable and having a different audio signature, it's pretty darned usable. The only reason I know about the prices was to find out if it makes sense to swap the car or upgrade and the answer is "probably the latter". Not bothered about more power or DSG, both of which would be likely.. the clutch isn't too heavy for my liking and there's enough power when dropping to fourth for a quick blast past slower stuff. And I can fit 15 Ikea Dundergubben moving boxes if necessary .Bret

Go with simple first, and easy to reproduce yourself in seconds 🤝

i have a feeling its a mk3, theres no buttons in my mk2 between the front of the gearstick and the ashtray/cubby... there is on a mk3 though.. no bonus buttons on a normal mk3 either though, so its definitely a user addon for the front mounted machine guns. check for mounting rails behind the front grill, might be still there

Oil ash levels is the permanant one, soot is just the temporary stuff as I am sure you know (typo) The top two you want under 20 g The oil ash values are taken from a VW Golf 7 at 100,000km to give you a rough lifespan estimate

It's the K line diagnostic wire, and on some aftermarket radios if it's left connected it can cause problems

Thank you 😀! I mentioned the build date in my post; it was in August, I think. I did not say anything about the pick-up of my car this week until it was a done deal today (that is safely parked in my garage at home 😀). Call it being superstitious, but I prefer it that way 😁.

I see a positive in you being able to tell yourself and us what is really going on. I think taking steps is better than not taking steps, whatever direction they seem to be going at the time. Feel free to pop round and shoot me for exceeding decent limits of psychobabble.🙂

You might not be where you want to be right now, but you'll get there. If that helps somewhat. Keep going man, you've got this

To be honest it's tough getting low profile tyres in lower speed ratings anyway, why would a manufacturer bother making V rated tyres when they can make W rated tyres for almost the same price.

Another one here, 2017 Fabia 1.2. Fuel all over the engine bay, AA man was astounded. By the time he got the car home I'd found this and told him likely a snapped bolt. Spoke to Skoda, of course they have never heard of the fault before so would only book the car in for a paid repair! Stripped it today and found the bolt head then after removing the intake manifold could see the snapped bolt. The fuel rail brackets are also bent so I either need to fit a new one or get them back straight again. Nice to see that the folks in North America have this all fixed for free while over here VAG say they have never heard of it! It's no wonder main dealer garages get such a bad name.

I would borrow one first to try, the USB ports in my Passat charge my phone really slow, I have a feeling they are only 500mA so won't be any good for a wireless charger.

I never thought this season would be so close after Fabio built such a huge points lead. Exciting races coming up.

I use Speedtest by Ookla.

17” winter wheels certainly fitted over the 340mm front discs on my previous Kodiaq.

Having driven diesels for many years (my last car was a 2014 Octavia 2.0 dsg) I made the switch to petrol last August and treated myself to a 2019 Karoq Sportline 1.5tsi dsg. It's a really nice car to drive, and on paper the 0-60 is the same as my Octy, but I've been disappointed when needing to accelerate from anything other than standstill, eg overtaking. I guess this is where a diesel's torque really shines - the Octy would take off with relatively little throttle, even at 70+. The Karoq on the other hand can sometimes dither for what feels like 2-3 seconds as it drops down through the gears before it finally starts to take off. It can be a bit unnerving, but I've been changing my driving style such as anticipating any moves and changing into sports mode first. Anyway onto my question. Has anyone remapped their 1.5tsi? I recall reading a post elsewhere saying that the problem is that the dsg paired with this engine doesn't have much headroom for extra torque, so there's a real risk of damage. Is that correct? If so, how much extra torque could it safely take?

The DQ200 dsg will take the extra torque of any remap you have on a 1.5 TSI. But do you want a DQ200 not covered by a manufacturer's warranty. More important might be do you want a 1.5 TSI without a Warranty covering it. Best well the car while prices are good rather than modify what can be a flawed model / drivetrain. The remap 1.5 TSI threads are in the Performance section.

Finally got it to work. Thank you