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I am far more jealous of you with that than anyone buying a new SUV app connected tea tray for a dashboard driver aid system filled Bag 'O' Shoîte. Amazing to think that it would otherwise have gone to scrap, in my first 2 decades of driving I would be fighting off other buyers offering more than the asking price and having to up the offer several times to bag something so sought after (back then) as that. That era was the pinnacle of vehicle simplicity and reliability and the Japanese at the top of the pile and at the top of their game, so rare to find a protected example, it should be worth more than any classic barn find, its something that you can use straight away with minimal preventative maintenance and drive for decades. I would have it in a heartbeat.

So did some investigating to find out why the trap speeds were low the last time it was out, with some help from a couple of the guys at darkside and noticed injector devation on cylinder 2 was off. Pulled the injectors sent them down to get tested came back fine. Swapped the injectors around still showing issue in cylinder 2. Noticed it then started to use oil as much as a MK2 Fabia vRS does. Check the turbo seals all ok car still had plenty of power as it would spin the tyres in 3rd but oil consumpsion slightly concerning. Got bored and moved onto helping other folk with their projects such as 8 second passes at pod and drift cars. Thought id revisit the Fabia after the sessions had finished a couple of months back. Truck it on a truck and sent it down to Darkside who started looking into it and low and behold we found this 😂 guess that explains the oil consumpsion issue then. Also always had an issue with getting 5th gear in the 6 speed box (used to have to double clutch it going into 5th) never really thought much of it but the guys at Darkside always like to make sure everythings perfect and right for the cars when they leave so they had a look at it and this is what we found. So one of the spare gearboxes from their world record holding Arosa drag car was swiftly stolen and stuck in the Fabia. And now it's came back home, Both me and Darkside are determinded this car isn't going to die 🤣 back down in a few weeks for some extra custom interior bits

Just turned 30 too, registered 1st of October 1992. I'm really pleased to have got it especially considering it can still move under its own steam even after all this time lying up. You're right and I was completely wrong, took off the cover and it's got a rather old looking belt so it will need changing. Seemingly it's non interference atleast, and a very easy job to DIY. Anyhow, did a bit to it today, Firstly a pic of the "new" backbox I took it out and gave it it's first wash in ages, bit grimy but not bad at all With that done I took the plugs out for a look. I can't tell much from them other than they're old. Will get new ones. Gave the carb a few hits of carb cleaner, did clean off some Gunk but not all of it Dropped the fuel filter to change it New one looks slightly different but should work fine. Old filter seems to have caught some Rust from the tank. Seemingly no bung on the tank so draining the old fuel through the feed to the filter. Which will take a while. Easy access atleast, this sits high enough that I didn't need to lift the car at all to get at it. As a last thing I tried buffing half the bonnet to see how it would come up. Looks like it'll come up well.

What a find DM - And just ripe for the €56 tax as well!! Well done !! 👍

Got the new filters and pump fitted this afternoon. As always things didn’t go totally smoothly. The filter connections were corroded and needed a bit of WD40 and effort to loosen. The filter was dated 2011! I reassembled everything, tested and fuel sprayed out of the pump. I realised I’d used the wrong crush washers so it was easily fixed.

Cars and coffee today

Completely agree that verbal isn't worth the paper it's written on - personally I'd be emailing them along the lines of " After our discussion today re: DSG problem, can you confirm my car is OK to drive? " and ask they reply to the email rather than give verbal assurance. Skoda assist is a breakdown recovery service, not a car rental agency, you don't call them to arrange courtesy cars. Alternative transport may be provided only if they deem your car is unable to be driven. Even if they do say that, they'll recover it back to the dealership, but if the dealership then say that it can be driven... They're not going to pay for a car under those circumstances. In any case you'd need a sympathtic patrolman because by the letter of the book, if they get wind that the car has already been to the dealer with this same fault, they're perfectly within they're right to say its not their responsibility to provide a car. ( see T&C about recovering a car twice with the same fault ).

It's a shame there's no permanent way of turning it off

Pah, that rotor arm'll go on - you just need to use a bigger hammer! 😇😁 Gaz

This is my new to me 1992 Subaru Justy. It's a 1l Carbureted version and while most were 4wd, this one is front wheel drive. It is a one owner car with 37000 miles, bought new from my work in 1992. Has been sat in a barn since 2010, started up and drove back to my work. Very stale fuel in it but it runs and drives well considering. Interiors like new inside Engine bays dirty but original. Original Spare tyre even Did sit outside for about a week before I could get it home, happily seems pretty watertight. Up on the lift before I got it home, solid underneath and the mid section of the exhaust is brand new. The weather turned ****e so it went into the garage later. Not long after I took this pic, I took a quick trip to roscommon to pick up a powerflow (stainless) backbox for this, the backbox is actually solid but the tailpipe looks a bit crumbly. All I have done to it so far is put a new battery in it. Have Ordered/Got: -Fuel Filter -Oil and Filter -Air Filter -Backbox Definitely needs tyres as these are ancient Michelins, 145R12, no profile on them. Original fit michelins can still be got but they're 90 euro each plus fitting. Probably get something a bit less than that. So far as I can tell, everything works as it should. Even the original radio works. This won't take much to get it good for the road, If I'm less than a grand into it at the end, I'll be happy.

1995 Skoda Favorit-Form_-Pickup Czech Republic market Rear axle Suspension rear.htm So etka does say that pre 94 there are different springs and dampers set part 115035001 for damper and part for 115350300 spring insted of, 115035004 damper and 6U6511115A spring I don't know if the attachment will work or help

Just had a quick look and the cup is available seperatly Part 115395210, but again it's from skoda-parts

I don't believe this is a model year issue, because like papez, I think that the dimensions should be the same across all favorits/felicias (bar pickup versions) I think it is a case of aftermarket parts that just don't quite fit Have you tryed fitting the spring to the new damper yet? Also, I don't know if it's just me but in the 2nd picture it looks as if the distance from the spring seat to the bottom bushing hole center is longer on the new one

Moved to the Yeti section 👍

Absolute cracking find and it looks like it'll come up well...

The look on the face of the yoofs when going away at the lights is a giggle

@Schtum thanks

@ScleptzeR MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0253T is available, and I will send you a link in a few moments. @manu73 You need to hold down your menu/setup button to get into the engineering menu, you are looking for Software Train value (MHI2_ER_SKG11_K3343 for example)

Pete, Just to reiterate a big thanks from me for providing the Transporter T5 - 6Y1959801 drivers side electric window motor. Fitted it today and windows, central locking, headlight adjusters and electric mirrors all working again. Brilliant easy service, thanks again! Martin

Hello all, new car! Only just passed my test a few months ago so after owning an old corsa on its last legs I decided to grab this lovely wee fabia, originally went to look at a blue 2017 monte 90hp but they also had this with the 110hp engine and in the colour and year I've always wanted, lucky find, anyway its great,

Battery voltage is in the green so it's not that! I've found a mobile diagnostic chap locally so am thinking of getting him to do his thing!

It can be tuned off in the Long Coding menu using VCDS or similar, it is not allowed to be permanently deactivated by the user under the emissions regulations the car was certified.

None at all runs good

Know where the level is cold without the engine started. Top up to Area A when the Engine Oil is at Normal Operating temp. So that is when up above 80*oC, so near to an indicated 90*oC. Do not overfill.. Know where that correct level is when cold so you can check before trips.

Did not hold for 5 seconds so thanks for the information, now all batteries working. I would have thought the dealeship would have told me that when I put one of the batteries in to show it was not working, instead they took the fobs away and came back with the skoda batteries fitted and a £15 bill.

Hi @Avocet, I see you've got it sorted now?

Coming of Citroën, which is known for its plush soft suspension, to octavia vrs, i have to say I'm loving the car. Of course it's stiffer, but that's exactly what I want. I have 0 problems on mine, best car ever. It sounds like this car is not for you, you chose the wrong car... It's not the cars problem. Didn't you test drove the car before buying it?

Hi Jordski. I looked at the wiring in the back off the mirror bracket and it on had 3 wires. Which I’m as rare for the auto lights and auto wipers. So I decided I can live without it for now.

That's the issue; it smells of exhaust but takes weeks, sometimes months, to become audible.

s/UK/Ingurlundshire according to the scan of the manual.

Yep, I would have rather got a replacement however I just went with the repair. All sorted now, solder seal connectors did the trick covered with some traditional black heat shrink tubing.

Hi, I've read that the brake switch can throw off the haldex as the haldex disengages under braking so a faulty switch (foot or handbrake) can send the wrong signals and disengage haldex. Second up is the earth lead from the haldex, that can rot apparently and cause the pump not to run. It's easy to blame the unit itself.when often there can be other easier things to trace too. Have you been to a vag specialist other than the indy or the vw franchised garage... it always annoys me when a "technician" uses a computer to diagnose a "fault" without considering the options. I could be wrong , but I'd look at the cheap possibilities first before dropping 6k on a diff . 😪

I have been scratching my head over this for ages before the penny finally dropped, you said parallel and not in line as in how I am used to checking most twin cams at TDC. For some reason I had not visualised that they would always be parallel as you say. Sorry for my confusion and muddying the waters with my posting. If there is any doubt about the crank being one tooth out of phase then a check at TDC would be in order on the assumption that the slots should be aligned at TDC.

@DieselMonte looks like it is a belt https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/timing-belt-set-10505/subaru/justy/justy-i-kad/4409-1000

Worse! It's a 1l Carbureted FWD SL model. It is an absolute basic basic model, was bought new from my work in 1992. It's not one of the cool 4wd ones but I don't really care either. The first owner passed away and it sat in the garage until recently. Was going to be scrapped but I thought that would be an absolute shame, so I bought it.

Thank you. I'll try that tomorrow and post an update. It would be fantastic if it was something as simple as that. Funny thing was the first diagnostic showed low voltage plus the cam positioning sensor. The sensor was replaced and new plugs fitted but the management light stayed on and it still lacks a lot of power, bit sluggish too. Fingers crossed. 👍

It is all one of perspective. Both the Chinese and Russian, and probably over a hundred other countries of the world regard Great Britain, and the other empire building Western European powers of the last 2 or 3 hundred years, as some of the worst examples of invaders and exploiters, Napoleon, Hitler and the general expansionist policies of Western European countries, killing millions of the local inhabitants, plundering those countries resources, the UK Royalty even display the stolen gems from countries it plundered. The history of the British Empire, particularly the East India Company is one of centuries of shame, especially against China, India but many others. China is becoming the most important country in the world, India is climbing in economic importance and now exceeds UK GDP. The 19th century was when the UK time at the top. 20th century was when the Americans ruled. The 21st century is the Asian century. The best thing the UK can do is slow it inevitable decline as much as possible. We could still enjoy a decade or two of quite good standard of living. The UK economy has already starting to perform like an Emerging economy rather than a strong and stable one. Empires rise and fall, propaganda is no ones exclusive tool.

I’m having the same problem but mine is from cold and stops when warm,, no loss of power also. But I do have EML on but that’s for boost control position sensor P2563,,,, I did have a key and fob coded to the car and the lad did read codes and one for O2 sensor was there but my cheap reader don’t pick that one up. I’m thinking of changing sensor and see if that helps

It might do, because it's an old car and things can compound each other. For example, if an Earth was poor...then low voltage in combination with a poor Earth could lead to electrical problems. Things like ECUs and engine management systems can stop working properly when the voltage drops too low. It's a bit like a house smoke alarm. When the battery's voltage inside drops too low, it stops working. Measuring the voltage is also a really easy check, and something that I would do first. I use one of these to keep an eye on the car's battery voltage when I suspect the battery may be needing replacement and about to cause a car breakdown. Car cigarette LED voltmeter https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134175541274

What is the battery voltage after the engine hasn't been started for about 8 to 12 hours? You can measure from the cigarette lighter socket, but it's more accurate to measure directly from the battery terminals. It should be about 12.7 Volts. Something much lower, perhaps about 12.3 Volts would mean that the battery voltage is too low for a standard SLA (Sealed Lead Acid) car battery.

You need to remember one thing YOUR_CAR ≠ ALL_CARS What I want tell you is this; would I have followed your advice I would not have been driving a problem free Octavia Mk4 for six months. What applies to your car simply does not apply to newer cars where the problems have been ironed out. Oh, one thing I remember, the front assist and ACC crapped out once while I was slowly driving through a thunderstorm, near horizontal rain and visibility dropped to less than 200 meters. Perhaps I should tell people not to buy the car? 😅

Me too, as soon as I get in the car I turn it off

Very happy. Infotainment not as daunting as so thought. Lane assist not as intrusive as I’d read- pretty helpful most of the time. Only driven about 60miles but so far, so very good.

On the road... OK. Quite subtle pic... I admit it

I mean that’s very over simplified. Upgrading the brakes making them larger/vented/grooved basically whatever you do to increase the surface area doesn’t always mean you will stop any quicker than before. You can happily lock the wheels up even with the cheapest pads and discs on the market and this is why good tyres matter no matter what brakes. there is no difference in the lock up of big brakes vs small brakes, 0 wheel rotation is not what we are trying to achieve as then the tyres are doing the stopping of the vehicle, not the brakes. performance brakes are better for a few reasons, mainly heat dissipation, you won’t get anywhere near as much brake fade with better materials and a larger surface area. You then have gas build up, prolonged use of the brakes causes the friction material to break down and release gases so it reduces braking efficiency as pads aren’t making full contact. Brake upgrades 90% of the time come down to heat, just cause brakes are bigger doesn’t mean you’ll notice any difference under normal driving.

I'm reasonably sure that any time the engine cuts out, for whatever reason, the battery light comes on. So blaming the alternator or battery seems to be excessively hasty guesses as to what may be amiss. Have you changed the crank sensor yet?

how to and what tools

Ok so I went out just to get a "feel" for the installation. Removed the DSG boot and realized there's a metal clamp that keeps the knob assembly fixed on the gear stick. This need to be cut off apparently but nothing is mentioned about its replacement... Even if one gets the same VAG item clamp i believe it needs a particular type of pliers to be installed which I don't think I have. I wonder if a strong zip tie could be used instead although I don't like to improvize on this stuff too much. There is no mention of it at all in the installation post as far as I could tell Also, I had a look at the service manual for removing/installing the DSG handle and i believe I am in the situation described where the knob button has been already pushed in (and that's why I wrote it felt fixed and fully depressed a couple of posts above). According to the manual that could end up destroying stuff if attempted to be installed like that so a special tool is needed to push the button back out which *guess what* i also don't have, although I could come up with something. I believe the guy in the installation post resolved this via lots of patience and some fishing line? Sounds like that's what he refers to. Oh and the red plastic shaft shown in the installation being inside the knob assembly is not included in my replacement knob so i guess i need to transplant it from my current knob, before I fix the button out It doesn't seem a trivial installation at all to be honest...