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For the first time in over seven years of ownership I feel I've finally driven my urquattro properly. After repairing and changing so many parts, the final piece of the puzzle seems to have been the fuel pump and filters. It pulls hard to the red line, it doesn't stutter or miss, I can power around bends like a boss, it doesn't threaten to stall when manoeuvring at low revs, I can accelerate from low revs in the wrong gear and it just does it, no hiccups, and it sounds just ****ing epic. I don't know quite how to describe the thrill it has given me today but after so many frustrations and so much time and expense, to just get in my car and drive, and enjoy the drive with no problems, not only made me grin like an idiot but actually made me kinda emotional. It's finally time to enjoy my classic as a daily driver as much as I possibly can. Until the next challenge

Odds are this it the location as you can see in image from @nige8021 I did find it @Breezy_Pete just late to post 😁

Can't beat a 2.0 Fabia though.

Hello and good day from South Scotland, I'm a old fart that's been around the car clubs on and off for a long long time and I'm a semi retired Detailer so i could look after my disabled wife. I'm dipping my toes back into the club scene again to see what the crack is and pick up some tit bits of info on my 17yr old girl. Her current state is :- whiteline adjustable RARB R32 ARB ARB main bush poly steering column poly bush All bushes replaced with OE items ( I'm old like my fillings in my mouth ) S3 subframe brace. TT Strut brace. TT faster steering rack KYB shocks with new OE springs ( im old so like a OE feel) 225 45 17 Goodyear eagle F1 tyres. Full stainless turbo back exhaust with extra packing in centre and back box, ( again old don't like drone and lift off crackle ). Future work :- she needs her timing belt kit done as its on 70k while she's getting that done renewing 3 engine mounts with OE, I know the dogbone upgrade stops axle hop, but not wanting undue vibrations spoiling the OE feel the old girl has. getting the SIA programed out plus the second O2 sensor as she's not got a cat, plus a run on a dyno to see how crude the map she has, as it's got a stage 1 tune but don't know how good it is, feels good though. Then the elephant in the room, bodywork, the rust fairy is being a bitch and sprinkling her red dust on her, plus the old girl is a ex cop car so has 3 different silver paints on her. thanks Mike.

shrooms

Legends! Will keep you updated as to what I find. Thanks again.

The Entrance Plate, is the plastic trim over the door sill area * Torque is 9Nm

No, you cannot access those latches. But it's actually not needed. If you release latches on the side and push gently upwards through the opnening in the doorcard, module will bend slightly, thus releasing the latches in the back. Used this method several times now, and all latches are fine. Problem is, that you were probably trying to release back latches first, as it's easier to insert something there because of the "cushion" part of the armrest. This way it's easy to break the latches. Edit: Working now on "squeeky" doorcards. Seems like fabric insulation tape does the trick, although requires some work. For now did driver's door and it's finally quiet. Not a sound when pulling the handle to close the door. Finally!

It is I just had an offer I couldn’t refuse. But don’t worry picked up another yesterday

Once you go black....upppsss....once you have the rear camera, you don't want to be without it ever again. 😁 It makes your parking and revers driving so much easier. But my advice, buy an original one.

So finally got Skoda to do the urgent (yeah right !) fire safety battery recall work done after near 6 month wait, but had to take car to Warrington at my expense it seems. One day later red warning pops up & I got no hybrid coolant. Skoda Assist technician says 5th time it’s happened with him - fluid leaks back into battery box when they do fire safety recall work. Car off road & waiting for excuses no doubt from dealer as to why it’s just a coincidence.

Hi Great to be in the Skoda group. I’ve got two Skodas. Both 2007. One Fabia and one Roomster 2007. I’ve just bought a the Roomster. However the heater blower doesn’t work and neither do the windows. I’ve changed the window switches and checked all the fuses and still no joy. As for the Blower heater? Can’t believe the whole dash has to come out. 😂🤦‍♂️ Any advice would be welcome. But I still love SKODA !!

Due to commuting for work now I had to get rid of my 2018 Ibis white Audi S5 Sportback which I loved!! But it was costing me a fortune to run so I ask my mechanic what to get for a new commuter. He said VW Golf GTD all day long but i still wanted a nippy petrol so looked at Golf GTIs BUT if I am being honest they are so BORING!! Spent hours and hours on Autotrader then came across Octavia VRS. It was a done deal. So I picked up a 2019 Octavia VRS 245 in Corrado red. Funny thing is a also have a 1994 VW Corrado VR6 so it was fait. I have had it 3 weeks but have already done so mods to it including tinting and Maxton front splitter. It was a good choice. Still a lot to do!!

Hello Mike & welcome to the forum, nice looking motor.

Found this in the structural repair manual, the area I've ringed in red is the gearlever opening for reference and the red hatched is the B X member

Video is v. helpful. 🙂 Footwell wetness and corrosion/shorting local to the sensor seems much more probable than condensation getting to airbag ECU area, I think.

Both door handles and windows button modules done. Now it's dead quite, better than in CLA Merc Tape is on almost all edges, as well as latches, clips etc. So basically everything, that directly touches the doorcard plastic. Also some tape on the door card: Highly recommended "mod", as it fixes one of the biggest issues with O4 (and all Skoda's) trim. Hope it will not start "squeecking" again Will doo rear doors (maybe even worse than front) when i will be dampening them, so in few weeks probably.

Wiring diagrams show G179 as external to the airbag ECU, but unhelpfully don't give any clue about location. Has a two-pin connector.

No it won't work. There is a repair kit available containing new chain, sprockets and tensioners, fitting it will fix all the problems.

Worth a shot... 🙂 I guess I'll just get the tyres done next week and let the garage do their thing. I may have a go at doing the discs and brakes myself (can it really be that difficult? I'm not completely inept) then torqueing up carefully and praying to every deity that it'll all be ok!

The hubs should be ok to reuse, I never replaced mine, be sure the mating faces are spotlessly clean when replacing the discs (as they always should be). I doubt you'll find a mechanic who sees the logic in gently and progressively torquing up the wheel bolts in increments though! Maximum eyelash fluttering might do it

comfort quality is subjective. I can notice a big difference when rolling on higher sidewall 17s compared with 19s. The higher sidewalls are pretty flexible in comparison. The 19s are not firm like low profile cars with hardly any sidewall to take the bumps and potholes that are on most of today’s roads. Heaven help those running on 20 or 21 inch rims. Plus the ££££ for bigger tyres. My bonus is the DCC suspension that lets me Pik N Mix between 3 suspension settings when added to the 19” summer tyres (shallower sidewalls) and the 17” winter tyres (higher sidewalls). I flip flop drive modes and suspension frequently on every journey. M-way, speed bump roads, country roads, passengers, my mood - all influence my choices.

Can you please confirm which one of these part numbers match for me to be sure. It should be one the bold 3T0.... numbers iirc #VwSwPartNumber:1T0035680D/1T0035680D/3T0035680B/7F0035680A/7E0035680A/1T0035680F/1T0035680G/3T0035680C/3T0035680D #VwSwIndex:3980/3986/3988/3984

Could you turn off the s/s? Then it should stay off until you turn the ignition on again. I experienced exactly the same issues with my previous car (none Skoda), so I bought the SE spec without these annoying functions. Within my opinion they're more of a safety hazard than a prevention.

But wasn’t without an SE for long as picked up 816 the same day 😊

Did you have to sell it because it spat it's dummy out Pete (sitting behind the wheel in the last pic with new centre caps)?😂

But I'm a skillful carburetor programmer too. The real challenge is using LPG with a Pierburg 2E3. Which has an auto choke mechanism and engine load dependent second barrel operation. Also there is the distributor itself with centrifugal advance mechanism coupled with vacuum advance unit*. (*= On stock engines. I have R12 distributor) All of those advance mechanisms are tuned for gasoline. LPG advance curve is different. - Issues with cold start. (<10ºC) - Issues about switching between fuels. - Issues about setting up the static advance and advance curve. (Since I have R12 distributor, probe light doesn't work for me! It shows an awkward position on degree marks near the pulley. Because, original Favorit ignition circuit has its own delay!) - Advance curve and fuel ratio is connected with each other but I can't put at least one variable to a constant with LPG. - Issues about keeping the carburetor clean. (LPG setup is pouring a black sticky muck right into the carb.) Think about this; second choke on the carburetor opens at a certain vacuum level from the engine but its movement is blocked when gas pedal is not pressed at a certain degree. Because of this, you can't adjust LPG when the car is stationary. It's useless. (You can over-rev the engine with second choke completely closed, when the car is stationary) A carburetor is designed to keep the A/F ratio constant under variable airflow but the vaporizer of the LPG unit solely depends on vacuum. It increases LPG output based on vacuum. Long story short, it's a nightmare to properly setup and use LPG on a Pierburg 2E3 mounted engine. This deserves its own topic. I have some home brew solutions to address some of the listed issues above but they won't just cut it all. The car can keep 120Km/h on flats with acceptable LPG consumption in the city but I can hear the engine pinking when climbing hills on second gear with revs more than ~3000-3500 (depends on air temperature and engine temperature). Also, there is evident power loss between LPG and gasoline. You can tell the difference easily. On injection cars, when their LPG installment and ECU programed correctly, there is almost no power related difference between LPG and gasoline. After some deep dig from past-time Czech sources, the real masters of using Pierburg 2E3 with LPG is no one than Czechs themselves! They are mentioning modifying the second choke operation. Remote controlling some of the parts in the carburetor for LPG use. On top that, they built a system with a SMV (Stepper motor valve) as a LPG power valve, receiving signals from a lambda sensor. They did this in the early 2000s. 😱 WOW! Just WOW! If you want to up your game, you need better tools. I think, monitoring a lambda sensor value is a good start to see whats going on. (I mean getting some meaningful numbers) Thanks! Many thanks! That's really what I've needed! A live world experience. Using the original secondary pipe will save me a lot $$. Now I'll have to decide whether to obtain a wide band Bosh LSU 4.9 or a more basic lambda sensor. Expensive sensors will setback the project for sure. But I'll post info whenever I can achieve some progress.

Cheers @varooom I will check the version info later when I finish work. Thanks again buddy

Bienvenue au Forum Eric!

@Spudskodaof the people that have updated MIB1, MIB2 and MIB2.5, they have all had 100% success. The process you can DIY is the same as the dealer/independent will do. Hopefully someone will post back their DIY success for you.

Bonjour Eric. Welcome to the community. Thanks for joining in. We have a good number of memebrs from France and Europe as a whole.

High beam doesnt have an adjustment and never will... its an unregulated/restricted bulb that just lights up everything, nothing needs adjusting. Show us a photo of what the supposed issue is?

Bye bye Sold !

Felicia up to 1997 will fit. Felicia with airbag used steering wheel from MK3 Golf with an adaptor ring (6U0419514) but the steering wheel was deeper, so they had to modify steering column and switches, too - you'd have to do the same with any VW steering wheel.

Did they already tell you how much it costs?

Thanks for your opinion 😀👍. I intend to buy it at a car dealer where I bought a car.

But can you take a modern hypercar like a king?

You may know this already but just in case: It’ll be easier for you if you find someone local with ODIS or VCP to try out the steering profiles. It’s a steep and expensive learning curve that can really mess up your car if you make a mistake. Do a VCDS scan to find your steering rack part number, then your friendly local Odis/ VCP expert will be able to find other profile options for you to try. My approach will be to find any performance options with the same rack that might have less steering assist output (stiffer) or failing that, a lighter car that may also be set up to provide less assist. There may also be people who have done this on drive.ru so worth a look. if you get the SuperPro or Audi TTS control arms you can play with extra negative camber too. An extra -1 should feel good but not unevenly wear your tyres or tram line much.

It's 20 years old, the valve stem seals will be hard and crispy which means you'll be burning oil whenever the throttle is shut.

Hi and welcome. Had a roomster for a while, fun cars, not to bad in a corner either. In hindsight I should of just swapped the seat and not the car. Checkout the roomster section, there might be more 'roomster' eyes there. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/172-škoda-roomster/

Regarding the carbon swarf those of us old enough to recall regularly decoking (I used to do several a week) or rebuilding engines will know from the formation of carbon on the piston crowns that flakes of carbon are constantly detaching and passing through the exhaust as the thickness builds up, you can see them ejected glowing red hot from a straight through exhaust system on dyno runs. Even aluminium swarf that evades removal when helicoiling spark plug threads does not do any noticeable damage.

You may have earned yourself a blocking for arrogance 😆

Touring Wellington’s op shops! Rusty is running way better than it ever has since fitting the new fuel pump and filters. Not hesitating, not spluttering at low revs, warm starting quicker. Not threatening to stall when lifting off at low speed. Very happy!

Make sure you get them to replace the belt as a kit with new adjusters, these belts are really good from VW changed mine after 5 years as a kit also renewed water pump and anti-freeze, ld belt looked really good and sure it could have gone for another 5 years not cracking around teeth

Almost threw you into a hedge and having to fight the steering wheel? Really? On the rare occasion that I forget to turn lane assist off it gives me a gentle bit of resistance on the steering wheel, I certainly never have to “fight the steering wheel” and it’s never even come close to “throwing me into a hedge”. Its a slight annoyance I’ll agree, but not in a million years would I describe it as dangerous🤔

You will; it’s the tiny block connector I’ve circled. I’d imagine it shorted when it broke, hence the warning. The white connector is the auto dim socket and the two prongs are the heated element connectors.

Check that you have these 2 screw postions as seen, then you should be able to adjust the beam, this will affect the dipped/high beam at the same time. Height is postion 1 Left and right deflection is position 2

Guessing he did not make it back from work

Whatever battery you go for, 2 things you need to consider. - Make sure the spec is the exact same, CCA, Ah, Battery type (AGM,EFB,LAB) - Make sure you adapt the new battery to the vehicle (many people call it ‘coding’ the new battery but it’s not, you are clearing the old adaptations and letting the battery management system know a new battery is fitted and to start monitoring it differently) This can be done with the genuine tool ODIS or something like VCDS

I noticed in your picture that the battery technology is incorrect. It comes from the factory preset as " fleece " for an agm battery and I've read elsewhere that fleece should be the correct setting. I'm not sure what the difference is between fleece and binary-AGM and I don't know if that gives any cause to your issues but I've read in many forums that fleece is the VW term for standard agm batteries in european cars. I would definitely physically check the serial number on the battery itself to see if it matches your picture just in case your old battery was a Varta and the new battery hasn't been programmed properly.