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This is also the sound that a Rover owner makes when something has broken on their car.

You can get the list of PR Codes by signing up to Erwin and spending 7 Euros https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do Also take the opportunity to get hold of as many useful workshop procedures that you think you might need, and check for outstanding work waiting to be carried out on your car.

After a long 3 months from the last wash, Gandalf is shiny clean again!!

The Mail has a good article with a nostalgic look back. https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-11350555/Ford-Fiesta-set-axed-46-years-4-8million-sales-no-electric-model-works.html

Clamp 30 is battery voltage, nicely explained here: KL15, KL30, KL31, KL50, KLR and Ignition Position

Received and replied Bolero MIB2, glove box unit 5Q0035842B, display unit 5E0919605H.

Looks like Bolero, either MIB1 (5.8") or MIB2 (6.5"). Send me VIN on PM and I will reply with SW update file download link and let you know model number of your both display and glove box units.

"mk1 Popular 957"

Ok, so I've given it a try and happy to report back that even the non progressive rack can feel much better. With my friendly neighbourhood ODIS/VCP expert's help we tried out a few different steering assistance maps for the Superb using VCP. My 2017 Superb 206/280 has the rack part number 5Q0909144T, which is not progressive and in stock form in the Superb feels way too soft for my liking. The hope was to make the sport setting actually feel firm. The rack profiles have "Sport" and "Normal" settings. Using VCP the rack part and software numbers showed possible steering maps from the Audi A3 and Skoda Octavia. The A3 has maps from 1-4 and the Octavia from 3-8. We tested a few of them and learned that the lower number = lower levels of steering assistance (firmer). The two firmest (Octavia 3 and A3 1) were tried around the block and faster on the way home: Octavia Level 3 Sport: Extremely firm. Tested up to 50kmh and would be at the upper limit of what I’d like. Didn’t test it faster but would likely be too firm at 100kmh. Normal: Barely softer than Sport mode and not comfortable, which my wife would hate. Audi A3 Level 1 Sport: At stationary and <10kmh slightly firmer than stock Superb but still very easy to move. From 20-60kmh the steering firms right up and feels exactly what I’d expect Sport to be. Gives good resistance right off centre and makes it feel less vague. At 100kmh feels very purposeful but not overly heavy. Normal: Slightly firmer than Comfort was in the stock Superb but still very soft. Wife would give it the thumbs up. I think I’m happy with the A3 Level 1 map for now. All meaningful driving now feels pretty much ideal in terms of wheel resistance. There may be some joy to be found in Octavia Level 4 but will sit with this for now and see how I feel.

You just described why not to put grippier front vs worn rear tyres? Yes, if you have new tyres at the front, it's more likely to oversteer, especially in the wet. I know because I did just that. On an old banger clio, budget new front tyres vs quite worn budget rears. It was incredibly easy to get oversteer in damp or wet conditions. In the dry too if I try a bit. It will oversteer before understeering.

Love my VAG cars, but there's only been one make and model of car ever made, that there's never been a bad version of, and that was the Fiesta.

Hi All Not sure if this will be of use to anyone, but I have copied this courtesy of Mr-Fix on Youtube. Below are the current model numbers of the various Infotainment units in the VW group. Admins please remove if I have duplicated a previous post, but it might be useful to have a pinned post updated as new models are released. 3G0 035 021 - MIB2 VW Discover Pro 3G0 035 043 - MIB2 VW Discover Pro 3G0 035 045 - MIB2 VW Discover Pro 3Q0 035 043 - MIB2 VW Discover Pro 3Q0 035 824 C - MIB2 VW Composition Media 3Q0 035 819 - MIB2 VW Composition Media 3Q0 035 846 - MIB2 VW Discover Media (MQB) 3Q0 035 864 - MIB2.5 VW Discover Media (MQB) 3Q0 035 874 - MIB2 VW Discover Media (MQB) 3V0 035 020 - MIB2 Skoda Columbus 3V0 035 021 - MIB2 Skoda Columbus 3V0 035 043 - MIB2 Skoda Columbus 3V0 035 045 - MIB2 Skoda Columbus 3V0 035 046 - MIB2 Skoda Columbus 5C0 035 680 - MIB2 VW Discover Media (PQ) 5E0 035 020 - MIB1 Skoda Columbus 5G0 035 020 - MIB1 VW Discover Pro (Golf MK7) 5G0 035 043 - MIB1 VW Discover Pro (Golf MK7) 5G0 035 819 - MIB1 VW Composition Media (Golf MK7) 5G0 035 844 - MIB1 VW Composition Media (Golf MK7) 5G0 035 846 - MIB1 VW Discover Media (Golf MK7) 5G0 035 858 - MIB1 VW Discover Media (Golf MK7) 5G0 035 864 - MIB1 VW Discover Media (Golf MK7) 5NA 035 022 - MIB2.5 VW Discover Pro 5NA 035 043 - MIB2.5 VW Discover Pro 5Q0 035 874 - MIB2 Skoda Amundsen 5Q0 035 864 - MIB2 Skoda Amundsen

You still in a MkI Fabia? Mine would always tend to the left. Maybe it's that there's no rear adjustment on them? Just throwing an idea out there. Not had a MkI Fabia for a while now

Ohhh, in that case I've misunderstood. I think mine does that too, but I'm not 100% and I'm not going to find a straight road at this time of night to test it.

I have the same issue with my 1.4 TSI engine. For mine, I am pretty sure it is the 103 degree thermostat which is stuck open. For EA211, the thermostat is inside the water pump and the garage refused to change only the thermostat which is doable. They quoted me £240 for the labour and the water pump itself is £200. It is not that difficult to open the water pump and access the thermostats, so I am going to do it myself and replace only the faulty thermostat and probably some gaskets when the weather allows.

@rangor_ghas your car a DSG, so the issue could be the 2nd thermostat / regulator. Next to the DSG Oil Cooler.

In 50 odd years of driving the Motorways, highways and by-ways of this fair land one thing has always been conspicuous by its rarity, and that was the sight of a Fiesta outside of its natural home in a built up area. And that explains why Ford are dropping it. Without it being described as one, it was in reality a town use car, frequently a second car used for the school run, shopping etc. (yes I know that the one you had when you were 18 did 100,000 miles driving you all around the UK at an average of 68 mph.) That niche (small size, short journeys, town use etc.) is now being filled by by the new generation of small electric cars.

Brake fluid is lighter than water. I had a Galaxy that I bought as a fire damage insurance write off and rebuilt with a new wiring loom, dashboard etc etc. The brakes would fade and once towing a racecar & trailer down Detling Hill i lost the pedal completely, fluid in reservoir tested OK but rusty water bled from the front calipers, I concluded incorrectly as it would turn out that the fire brigade had put their high pressure hose on the underbonnet fire and it had pushed water past the very loose fitting level switch built into the reservoir cap. The master cylinder was fecked as well and full of rust & watery fluid. Later on Ford did a recall replacing the master cylinder cap & master cylinder as water running down from the scuttle was entering the brake system, I tried to get them to pay me for the master cylinder that i had replaced, they took all my details but only to get enough info to revoke my claim the barstewards Then the concentric clutch cylinder failed, again through water contamination, it shared the same fluid, by this time I had made friends with the chief mechanic at Stormont Ford as was through the rebuild, he took the vehicle in and processsed a recall warranty claim, they replaced the master cylinder a second time and the clutch cylinder, when I refused to give them permission to fit a new clutch at my expense (the old 75% worn trick!!) he deemed it was collateral damage caused by fluid contamination and replaced that as well, so eventually Ford got their comeuppance.

I agree with brake fluid change at set intervals. Absorbs moisture over time.

I’m always fascinated by the true meaning of crap tyres, ditch-finders, widowmakers et al. I’m old enough to remember when Nexen, Toyo, Hankook and Kuhmo first started to be imported to the U.K., they were described with those same terms; funny how times have changed. Who would have thought that they’d be OE global suppliers to Mercedes, Audi, Porsche, Ford, Skoda, Renault, Stellantis brands, blah, blah, blah…..

Just something to add. Brake fluid should be tested at the reservoir and also the caliper for an accurate assessment. If you only test at 1 point you may miss a heavily contaminated system at one point.

A GTI has wider tyres, bigger brakes, and stiffer suspension than the plain vanilla version so it can go round corners quicker and stop quicker. However, the actuary who works out the risk for the insurance company will tell you that the GTI is a higher risk even though it has higher performance. Clearly, in general the person driving the GTI isn't using the extra performance to give him a bigger safety margin but is often driving faster and with reduced safety margins...and hence more accidents and the corresponding higher insurance premiums.

DDENDOCAM Wireless Endoscope USB Borescope Inspection Camera 1200P HD WiFi Snake Camera for Android/IOS iPhone/Windows/Mac/Tablet/PC (Black, 2M) https://amzn.eu/d/6pH7bfz got the above. Seems to be exact same as the draper version. Worked perfect

The technical terms to confuse people do make me laugh.... Clamp 30/Terminal 30 is battery voltage - Terminal 15 is ignition voltage. A clamp 30 reset is a smart way of saying turn it off and turn it back on again, ie. disconnect battery for a while, reconnect and clear fault codes.

I managed to fix it so I can shut the lid properly, there is still a small gap on the left side but nothing that you notice immediatley. Opening the lid and closing works like it should now, so I'm happy. This comment made me think that perhaps I can bend the lid in place... I had a short wood plank laying in the trunk, so I grabbed it and used it for leverage, putting force on the horizontal plane. At the same time I tried to push down on the left side while prying with the wood plank on the left side rightwards if that makes sense. You can see in the picture below how I placed the wood plank. As you can see in the other pics it looks a lot better! There is still a small difference between left and right and the left side should go down a bit more, but I'm considering leaving it this way, as long as the lid can be closed I'm happy! Rain hasn't been an issue even when the gap was larger... the car has stood outside in rain without problem. The water simply drips down on the inner metal piece between the edge and the rubber gasket and never finds its way inside the storage area.

The controller is great design with little + & - buttons on the handlebar. 10 bars on the display for 100% and individual bar for each 10%. The circle ishows the mode. Eco, Tour (as shown) and Turbo.

No you don’t get the maps on the 8” display but if you use Apple Maps for directions it does show turn information which is pretty useful shown in the last photo o my post above

Ok, I understand. Thanks for you answers. It's very kind of you.

No coding is required for changing the display. something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B018GKO6OQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Roottoot will correct me if I'm wrong, because he's very knowledgeable about all servicing matters, but I'm almost certain that the brake fluid gets changed at year 3, then every 2 years after that.

Happy to say I have started commuting again after a forced period of rest from the saddle. After a few thousand hours in total (over a number of years) sat with my right foot on the accelerator pedal and plastered to the floor in a (horrible) Transit van touring the Midlands and beyond, fitting kitchens, I get a lot of Sacroiliac (now I know what it is called) joint pain on my right side. Having to take cycling a bit steadier and less frequent and atm using full power mode most of the time. I overdid it last time commuting all week and doing a few outings on my mtb at the weekend too............ Pity as I love being on the bike. Bit annoyed as I lean't my new commuter bike against the car the other morning to turn and lock the front door. I realised it was risky as couldn't rest it on the tyre because of the mudguard, but thought it would be ok for the few seconds I was turned around. Thanks to a gust of wind, crash, over it went. Gutted, but luckily doesn't seem to have done any damage (other than that I cannot rectify, Phew....... It did break the mudguard bracket though and I had to take that off. (Nearly went in the car, Lol.) I won't do that again (he says) Lol. When I get on the phone I will post a pic or two up when more time. 😉

Not sure for the Mk.2 - but there may be a sticker near the bottom of the B pillar with the engine code.

6.9mpg seems high consumption, but I wouldn't trust values of what the display tells you. Brim to brim is always the most reliable method of course. Best to ignore that for a moment to get those values read out if you can. By all means it's important also, but lower down IMHO.

Odds are that it is trying to do active regens. When I picked up my Octavia 1.6tdi a few months ago, it was trying to regen immediately. You need to measure soot calculated and measured, and oil ash content.

Before I fitted the underbonnet sound pad I could heard the turbo on my 15 plate 1.4TSI when in Sport engine mode.

I've only had the sos issue since my car was updated to 1896, so that alone does not fix the problem. Its booked into the dealer next month so I'll see if they fix it. It seems to happen in the same locations regularly and when it does the car Internet connection drops, the globe on the screen disappears, could be an issue with the sim? It also looks to cause other issues like losing user settings, stuck on loading settings and also the mode and Clima physical buttons not responding.

@roottoot does that not make my argument even stronger?

There's no compromise for the right tyres at the right time. We might not have extreme temperatures in the UK but the range across the year can be 30 Deg and well into the lower temps where a winter based compound is of benefit. As for the original question: stick to single types across the whole car with as even tread as possible. Swap them round if you can.

The problem with a lot of articles like that is they rarely mention if they are working with 2 tyres at about 2mm of tread, or 2 with nearer 5mm tread being paired up with 2 new tyres. Generally I work to the idea that it is ok to swap the part worn tyres to back if they have 4mm (or more) tread. In the dryer summer months can go down a bit to say 3.5mm on rear, but not really a good idea in the rainy autumn months to have treads below about 3 - 3.5mm on back. But then I don’t recommend summer tyres all year in UK because many have a noticeable fall off of grip in wet below +10c, and are often poor in wet below +5c. In the dry grip seems to fall off below +4c. Most wet days in UK Nov-March are usually below +10c @DEANO40 might find that a 4x4 with summer tyres grips less well on salted roads where salt has made road wet at few degrees below 0c than with a 2wd with all season or winter tyres. Quite simply if it is cold enough for salt to be spread, it is too cold to expect decent grip from a summer tyre. Ideally should be considering 4 all season tyres.

Ditto 😎 But nice to see it’s not only men who are interested in their cars, go girls 👍

Plenty discussion on here over the years on the Fitting Centres and fitters that will only fit new tyres to the rear. Obviously do not run crap tyres on the rear of FWD, RWD or AWD / Part Time Drive vehicles, but do not keep crap tyres on the front where you are steering, braking, controlling the rear with on front wheel, rear wheel or awd vehicles. The thing with crap tyres without grip is it might keep some idiots at home in wintry weather when they can not even get to the end of their road. PS Go to the parking outside a Tyre & Exhaust centre and see what they drive, and what tyres they have. In some of these people you trust their advice. Should you? http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/419541-new-tyres-front-or-rear

That binds the car maker. The car owner must only stick to the rim & tyre sizes listed in the homologation certificate regardless of the small speedo reading variations between them. Non-listed rim & tyre sizes are illegal, speedo reading error probably not being the primary reason for the ban.

16” with correct tyres work well and probably more choice and cheaper. Plenty of options at 16” for rims and bonus is this is the specified winter wheel size for Karoq so no warranty or insurance issues. Mine are slightly more conservative on speedo compared to standard 19” by a couple of mph at 70, which is on the safe side. Dont forget to tell insurance company. Some charge more as cars with winter tyres fitted may be used in worse weather and be at more risk of damage. Others are ok with it as long as declared. This is stupid though as some European countries require winter tyres to be fitted during certain periods of the year. This country would be much safer if we all had to have them fitted as well. My experience with 4x4 cars and winter tyres is that I can manage the conditions even when quite poor, yet the road gets blocked by other cars and particularly articulated lorries which can’t!

The test that I find interesting is the one done in wet at +8c and which includes Bridgestone Potenza sport and blizzak LM005 as named summer and winter tyres https://www.tyrereviews.com/Article/2022-Sport-Auto-All-Season-Tyre-Test.htm Just goes to show that in cold rain (which UK gets lots of Nov-March) better off having all season tyres than tyres for cruising down the autoroute de soleil at 30+c It is noticeable how grip on my Pirelli P7s falls off in wet below about +11c, even though they do well in summer tyre tests which are probably done at 15c+. Before anyone asks I run a winter set currently (which was best option 4 years ago), but if I was replacing tyres now would probably get cross climate 2 (now they have increased available sizes to include 215/45 R18)

@Carlston drivers that drive everyday and week and year are ether prone to drive like plonkers or boy / girl racers at times but i hardly think that they become a nutter just because the car they are driving has tyres with a bit more grip that gets safely down the road or to a stop at the speed they drive. Actually it is maybe when they find the back end can go out and the can control it that they might give it a go. Otherwise it is just about getting does the road and back again without hitting a kerb, a ditch or another living being. It is you that is an evangelist for narrower tyres on smaller rims. A bit like those motoring journalists that seemingly think they are driving gods and a GT86 /BRZ was the dogs dangles because you had crap traction at the rear.

Ideally you need to change all 4 tyres. Although I believe you can get away with only changing tyres on the same axle.

Got mine in at Skoda Bradford on the 19th. Happening to me all to frequent now. Getting the Loading settings message pop up now when the SOS fault icon appears. didnt before so lived with it. But it locks you out of using the screen.

It also seems to be a complete lottery with the dealer service departments. My car went in for a whole week. When I picked it up I was told everything was fixed, but they could not provide any detail behind the work they did. They promised to contact me a few days later with that detail, but despite follow up from me they still have not provided it. In reality, nothing has been fixed. I'm not sure why Skoda are not directing dealers to upgrade everything on these Octavias to get them to a standard baseline of software component versions. To me it would make their lives easier going forward.

So my apparently trained Vw mechanic couldn’t find the leak. Ordered an endoscope, removed the intake air temp sensor and had a nosey. Whilst looking inside a few drops of water rolled past the camera, so looks like it’s my charge air cooler leaking! Easy to check with a wee endoscope if they can’t get to the bottom of it.

@nori you have Amundsen MIB2 MY16, non-DAB. You can use any of screens you mentioned (3V0919606, 3V0919605D), they are P&P, just note in case of 3V0919605D you will get a little space between the display and the trims. @SimmoWhale you can you 5E0919606, 5E0919605M (with NAV button), 5E0919605N (without NAV button). Apple CarPlay is NOT screen-dependent, it depends on the glove box unit - yours supports it as long as SmartLink is activated.