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I missed all the twos 😞 But did get this... I'm into moon mileage now - at the shortest point in the orbit it's 221500 miles from Earth.

This sort of nasty attitude is why I went away from this forum until the other Skoda one shut down, you are playing at semantics over the wording. In the trade it is well understood what the light means and it's wording varies from one manufacturer to the other so the government's approach is trying to be universal. VW have two separate warnings that constitute an MOT failure one for petrol and one for Diesel

I documented the changes yesterday, all the sections to be changed. Hopefully helpful to anyone that checks this current thread.

Just a heads up, The battery type may come up as Fleece, that is what you choose for an AGM battery. It is not Binary AGM.

It's great with some care. Too aggressive with the throttle and both front wheels will let go and you're heading for the other side of the road.

VCDS/ODIS Service How to adapt a new battery A little guide I made to help you adapt a new battery to your vehicle VCDS How to adapt a new battery.pdf ODIS Service How to adapt a new battery.pdf

Hi NTA16, I have a Ctek charger designed for AGM, but thanks for suggestion.

Or like the Audi SQ5 we have just serviced, customer states "the yellow oil light came on and then the red one", there was bugger all oil in there!

I am guessing that the small cover over the key slot has either stuck or even broken away and obstructing the full width of the key slot. Try some light lubricant first. If that doesn't work take a careful close look to see what is blocking the slot. Then use a thinner key or a small pick to try to pull out the obstruction.

cheers guys as always just waiting on the new water pump coming by royal mail so could be next year with all the strikes sighhhhhh.

Removing a dpf is illegal and it's presence and whether it's been tampered with should checked at the MOT

It is an easy thing to check. Just turn the car on (and probably drive a bit) and have an eye on the thermostat outlet hose. If it warms up gradually it shows the thermostat is stuck open whereas if it is cold and suddenly gets warm when the gauge temp is close to middle then it works fine. My car has the same issue (gauge temp drop with turning on the heating or when goes downhill) which I think is the thermostat.

Re VAQ - the speed at which you can exit a roundabout in the dry is pretty impressive. It just pulls you round. Occasionally I find it almost too aggressive and end up veering towards the LHS of the road. Having had powerful FWDs that understeer I would say for the odd occasion it steps in, it is worth it. You can control it's level of input in the drive mode settings.

I was told that the speakers are connected to the controller, and even to the engine controls. So if there is a problem with any of the controls, it will be traced back to the speakers not being factory. Tomorrow I will speak to one of the parts purchasing colleagues at the dealership. How could this be resolved. Anyway, I like the Canton. Our Superb has them and they sound pretty good, just as good as I need them to sound. But I'll try to get them to install what you recommended. However, if they only put factory parts in, then Canton is the only option.

A 0.85l bottle doesn't give you much margin if something goes wrong. The maintenance manual recommends 700-720ml. A 1.0l bottle would be wiser.

So make sure in case of it was the selector mechanism fault in your car that they don't put the faulty 5wa713033be and they will put an updated part no

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Exactly the type of car use where the use of your C-Tek, or any other suitable battery charger, would help extend the life of the battery and avoid it going a bit too low so that despite the vehicle starting and the lights seeming bright enough the computer programs start to play up and may give all sorts of unexpected issues and perhaps warnings. You've been lucky to have the change before the cold weather. The very hot and extreme weather we had this summer wasn't good for the batteries (or charging systems) and will be reflected in an increase in the already seasonal increase in vehicle breakdowns and call outs and battery sales (many of them not strictly necessary). But you should be well sorted now with a new AGM battery and a battery charger to hand for future use when needed but only when needed as a preventative measure and not too often AGMs are fine at 12..4v). Like me you can lend your charger out to neighbours who have left things too long with their batteries or just made a mistake of leaving something electric running. Good luck.

Oh, well, I guess I'll find out from the dealer...

I think it has a different part number

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. No worries I only knew because I still have four fingers and thumb on my hand hand to count with. 😄 With the year I take it as year of manufacture, this MY stuff confuses the issue, just marketing or if selling. Even if it was 6 years I think that is a poor and shows the factory batteries were at low cost to purpose. The later cars I can see owners (unnecessarily often) changing at about 3 years but at least the later cars have suggestions about using a battery charger where required but that does require reading the Owner's Manual which is against the law for Billy-big-*******s men.

I quite often use eco / freewheel mode on undulating roads and have never found a problem but have found better mpg. As Toot says a dab on the throttle or brake puts you back in full control, not that I feel out of control anyway. As an old guy I was told not to freewheel in the good!!! old days.

Hi Varoom, I didn't know about the heat shield, I thought it was just a cover. Thanks for lettingme know. New battery is 3mm longer so should be ok (I hope).

Cheers Yeah maxton are working on this issue with the diesal version. It comes with a part that protects the valance from melted. They have reduced the price while it gets sorted but have said because they have notified of issue if it melts there's no warranty. Apparently they've sold loads and it's only happened due miss fitting the heat shield Anyways I'm going to order an see how I get on ha

The first one i have seen at a Charging Hub.

Yes I am busy, so unable to reply. Check PM in a few minutes time.

If you have powdered graphite - or even a soft pencil (not coloured) try some of that on the key blade.

Then, I'm sorry, but that is a total misunderstanding of how car electronic systems work - and to say it would invalidate the warranty on the whole car is wrong, the only item on which the warranty could be invalidated is the infotainment.

Given they're plastic and not intended to be constantly taken off/on I can't see why they would damage the alloy. ( assuming both the trims and the alloy are 100% free of grit when mounting them that is ). On the contrary, with the plastic insert in place surely that'd offer additional protection than an alloy without inserts? If it were me, they'd be removed and stored in the loft until the day I sold the car because I think the trims look crap.

They won't do the bendy twisty thing if you're in eco mode, or individual mode with lights set to eco in the settings

Theres a sensor at the bottom of the sump. Have a look at that. The wiring plug had corroded on mine, had to replace the sensor and connector.

Hello and welcome I used a Rearguards one on my Mk3: https://rgmautomotive.co.uk/product/rgm-abs-rearguard-rbp1314-octavia-v-4-door-4-2020/ Gaz

Yes there's an update to 0369 I will send you a link shortly when I can.

why limit yourself by kits, when Eibach Pro springs can be ordered separately?

No, speakers are connected only to headunit's power amp. Why would anyone connect speakers to ECU? Ridiculous. If you would prefer Canton, you would have to get whole set, not only speakers. It will cost much, much more than Focal speakers, and i doubt it will sound better.

All 18" rims on the Karoq are 7J, and that includes the 7Jx18 ET45 Braga alloys. Karoq alloy rims https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/en_CZ/alloy-wheels/c/alloyWheels Changing 215/50R18 to 225/50R18 raises the gearing by about 1.5%. As the standard speedometer will over-read by about 5% your speedometer will over-read by about 3.5% once the tyre size change has been made. However, google maps now has a GPS option so it's always worth checking. The Karoq does have a 225/40R19 tyre size option for 2WD cars and 225/45R19 for 4WD cars (as you can see on wheel-size.com), so fitting the 225/50R18 tyre size won't increase the car's performance compared to those tyre sizes. However, if you want a cheap and comfortable tyre size, 215/60R17 might be worth a look. You could fit this size to steel or alloy 6.5Jx17 ET38 Kodiaq rims. Compared to 215/50R18, 215/60R17 will raise the gearing by about 2.6%. 6.5Jx17 ET38 5/112 57.1 steel rims from the Kodiaq https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/rim-selector ETRTO lists a 6J to 8J rim size range for the 225/50R18 tyre size, with 7J highlighted because that's the normal rim width for this size tyre. ETRTO approved rim widths 225/50 6.0-7.0-8.0 wheel-size.com https://www.wheel-size.com/size/skoda/karoq/2019/#trim-15tsi-eudm-148

For me there wasn’t enough slack in the cable to get the pump out without disconnecting or at least undoing the control module. But if you can get the pump out, that is all that is required. You can unscrew the plastic filter and clean it elsewhere. You jut need to activate the Haldex pump after filling, to check the level. You can do this with VCDS (engine has to be running) but probably putting it into gear and revving a bit on the lift will do it too.

When I was looking I found alot of people complained they start melting/deforming around the exhaust exits. . I can't remember if it was more of a tsi problem or tdi. . Fitting is easy. . Few screws under the back bumper and pry it off. I ended up with a rieger part rather than maxton

I just jacked my engine under the sump with a block of wood on the jack. It's a pretty light engine. Engine mounting bolts? Yeah, you're supposed to but I just reused mine and the engine hasn't fallen out yet 😁

some times I like to wait in my car whilst the missus goes shopping and I want to be warm but without losing much of my distance so charging and waiting and being warm is something I desire while I am waiting

It’s fairly straightforward. You need to release the cable between the control module and the pump, attached by clips that slide out, and disconnect the cable at the module. I found this difficult to do because I didn’t really understand how to release the connector, so I just undid the control module (2 screws I think). One is supposed to replace the O rings on the pump body but I didn’t bother, and no leaks.

Following this logic, when your gearbox fails, they can say it's because of your phone connected to USB for Android Auto, or power supply for dashcam. MIB3 can detect if speakers are not connected at all, but not if they have different impedance. So no, system will not show or log any errors. But if you are unsure, i can try to check with OBD11 for any errors related to speakers, maybe tomorrow. Tracking down ECU to different speakers sounds like a magic to me, as speakers have NOTHING to do with CAN bus, which is only common point of ECU and MIB. Forget about Canton speakers. They will not bring any improvement, as they are mediocre at best. "Magic" of canton is additional power amp with DSP and Dolby Prologic. If you are worried about warranty, leave it alone till car is under warranty. But i don't think you should be...

Number 411 in Greenock . West Coast of Scotland . Has been for the last 4 years

Pulsar Aero wheels are 7J:

A proper LSD would be the mechanical solution and is always 'on'. I'd consider the VAQ to be an electro-mechanical solution. It can adjust the amount of pressure in the clutch pack and therefore transfer varying levels of torque depending what the control module deems necessary. - Sometimes it'll be completely 'off' and the diff will function like an traditional open diff - Sometimes it'll be completely 'on' and will act more like a mechanic LSD (the VAQ does have a limit to the torque it can transfer) - Most of the time it'll probably be between the two depending on driving conditions and driving style Different driving modes will change the VAQ operating parameters. In sport mode, I'd expect it to have more preload and react more quickly/aggressively to help with dynamic driving demands. XDS is indeed software, it basically brakes the inside (rear?) wheel to help control understeer. EDL is another software solution (electronic diff lock) which relies on the brakes to slow a spinning wheel and transfer torque through an open diff. I would expect a non-VAQ vRS to use both EDL and XDS/XDS+ to help control understeer. Obviously when applying the brakes to control the car, it will slow down fractionally. I think it was worth 8.5s around the Nürburgring but I doubt that translates well into a supermarket trip Random video that might help explain what a VAQ is:

I'm not talking about steep hills, just inclines on motorway driving. I like to drive on motorways with minimal use of the brake, so I have to judge things carefully. Coasting makes things a little more challenging as I don't get engine braking unless I activate it with a dab on the brakes. Cruise control makes things even more difficult as I don't have ACC, with my challenge being not to disengage the CC. (Obviously I have to accommodate other traffic and not inconvenience other drivers while I'm doing this.) I'm not saying it's an optimal way to drive, but I enjoy it and it forces me to anticipate what's going to happen a good few seconds ahead and mitigate for it.

The engine Malfunction Indicator Light being on is an MOT failure. 8.2.1.2. Gaseous emissions Engine malfunction indicator lamp (engine management light or ‘EML’) Turn on the ignition and check that the engine malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) illuminates and then goes off. On some vehicles it will be necessary to start the engine before the MIL goes off. You need to inspect MIL fitted to: petrol vehicles including hybrids with 4 or more wheels, not more than 8 passenger seats in addition to the driver’s seat and first used on or after 1 July 2003 petrol vehicles including hybrids with 4 or more wheels, more than 8 passenger seats in addition to the driver’s seat and first used on or after 1 July 2008 gas and bi-fuel vehicles including hybrids with 4 or more wheels, not more than 8 passenger seats in addition to the driver’s seat and first used on or after 1 July 2008 Defect Category (a) Emissions levels exceed the manufacturer’s specified limits Major (b) Emissions levels exceed default limits Major (c) Lambda coefficient outside the default limits or the range specified by the manufacturer Major (d) Emissions test unable to be completed Major (e) Engine is idling clearly above its normal idle speed Major (f) Exhaust emits dense blue or clearly visible black smoke for a continuous period of 5 seconds at idle Major (g) Exhaust emits excessive dense blue or clearly visible black smoke during acceleration which would obscure the view of other road users Major (h) Engine MIL inoperative or indicating a malfunction Major

There will be an outcry on this, as usual. They'll back down, as usual. And then it'll be sold as if it was a cut, as usual.

I still have an ongoing issue where I have been losing coolant which has progressively got worse over time but now I believe it to be from the intercooler - coincidentally I previously had an issue where the car would initially not turn over first time - almost like a failing starter or battery failure - It would throw a code "5456 starter will not turn" - I tested the voltage on the battery and it would drop to 8 volts when cranking - then one morning it did the same but never again - same day my car overheated to 130 and got an engine stop warning - the water pump had failed - so I believe the water pump was jamming up when starting and something broke within the water pump on that day - after replacing water pump I no longer have any issue with starting the car

Personal advice here. Also have a long narrow screwdriver or stick of some sort as well. Makes it easier to remove and reseat the damper rod that is connected to the glovebox.

just in case someone still needs the answer: for right hand drive ( as it is in my case ) is under the steering wheel compartment and it is the second relay from left to right on the top row marked with red circle in the foto. On left hand drive might be the other way around meaning the 4th relay from left to right. On my car the relay was good but the actual socket was not . Sorted it with a u shaoed paper clip in socked 30 and 87 until i managed to fix the actual socket. One if the wires was loose at the back. hope this helps someone