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Mine was like this after a garage gave my car a free clean! They had used a silicone spray on the plastic dashboard and the overspray was hard to remove from the glass with a cloth. I tried many glass cleaning products but the one that worked on the overspray (a silicone product?) was methylated spirits.

Took it off charge at 8pm last night. At 1pm today..... Lights: Camera...... Action: Came as a pleasant surprise 😎 Checked the levels, ran it up to temperature and let condensation out of the exhaust. Moved it (brakes let go quite easily) and remembered to leave the handbrake off this time 😁 Gaz

@Jonop Start by checking the tyre pressures. Unless you regularly carry actual loads (say 2 rear passengers plus luggage), bring those down to the lower of the pressures in the fuel filler, and reset the TPMS.

Hello, Anyone looking at this, it was really useful. My son’s Citigo (2012) screenwash stopped working in the cold weather recently. He filled it with clear water and it froze (numpty!) then blasted the wash switch. When the world warmed up the pump stayed dead. I checked the book and screenwash is fuse 17, also looked at this page and saw reference to fuse 25. Checked both; 17 was fine, 25 was blown. Replaced with a 10A and all fine. Without this page we would have been struggling as the book makes no reference to fuse 25. Thanks to previous feedback. Kevin

Provided you exchange with same battery type (AGM or EFB) and Amp-Hour capacity you MAY not have to adapt the new battery into the vehicle system - although I consider it best to at least change the battery serial number (adaptation) because the vehicle charging system may be limiting the charging rate to compensate for faults detected in the old one. A smart charger (I use a Ring 8 amp - Ctek is another good brand) is best for AGM/EFB batteries, look for one that can handle all three usual battery types.

@nta16 @Breezy_Pete Thanks Nigel and Pete. The report is, I stopped checking the computer, and opened up that bonnet, took up the plastic skuttle cover (?) and removed the thing. MIRACLES! I just didn't feel confident messing about with the fuses and having it go off anymore - some of my neighbours are elderly and it got late in the afternoon. I'll have it in the garage 5 January and let them sort it, but I feel very empowered - am not a newbie to cars just to Skoda and such. I noticed in another thread someone was saying they replaced with one made in Italy. Italy is also marked on mine. Appears someone's replaced this already. The fellow this morning could not get any readings from the computer reader - so, we'll see how we figure this out... But yes indeed Nigel, I'll do anmother post/theared and shre what I've learned, and what I find out. Taking the thing out was slightly fiddly without removing the wiper arms, but not really that bad. 30-45mins? You just prop it to one side, and I got something to press the left side up high torquining the plastiuc without breaking anything. One thing to watch out for: the windscreen spray hose is clips with a tiny zip tie to the alarm bracket. Must be cut first lest you rip the spray hose up. More soon, and really guys, THANK YOU. Martin

Rather than repeat, here is a thread about cleaning windscreen just the other day. My vote, with a +1 from @Mickvrs220 was for Stoner's Invisible Glass, good product having tried several over the years. EDIT: Sorry @toot I realised you did post this one, just the link was "flat" Cleaning tip: Do the outside cleaning say vertically, do the inside horizontally... this allows you to potentially quickly see if the left over muck is inside or out at a glance.

18" wheels and tyres are less comfortable as the sidewalls on the tyres are smaller, therefore less compliant. I went the other way, took 17" off and fitted 16", much more comfortable and less prone to damaging wheels in potholes. This all assuming you fit the correct tyres to keep your speedo correct.

Finally figured it out. The slave cylinder bleed nipple is actually stopping the gear selector from going in to reverse. The slave cylinder was a Sach after market part. Comparing the original to the Sach part I can see the bleed nipple location is different. It's only by a few centimetres but that's my problem. Of to buy a new slave cylinder. Will take pics and upload later.

I am not fussed on mileage so long as it has good history. I’d much prefer DSG to manual, realistically it’s a high spec se-l or and L&K ive split out the needs from the nice to haves. I’m my list. The needs are Apple CarPlay, heated leather, acc.

Definitely looking like Skoda are well down at the bottom of the queue for getting parts compared to the other VAG brands.

Try unsticking the wipers BEFORE switching them on!

So much so that most drivers now totally ignore the advisory signs. NH really need to get ther act together and make the signs accurate if they are to be treated with any respect.

Fitting the battery you can do yourself very easily. Also same battery is cheaper at Tanya once again. https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/bosch/s5a08/

Please check the dimensions, or post image of existing battery. If dimensions are spot on, you should be able to order one ASAP. Take a look here for some guideline's in a post I made beforehand.

What, for me even the level 1 setting is too hot to drive for an hour.

This is actually used on racing Skodas

Clumber Park earlier today........

Pic of the winter wheels. Also fitted the new undertray, this time with an aluminium strip instead of wood. Fit pretty well for a spurious part.

Bug fixes, rather than new features. Latest is MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0480T for your software train

Thats great the turbo has arrived for u. when u got it off, im sure u will get it back together. im thinking its a good idea to put some oil in the turbo oil line just so the turbo has some oil for startup. im not a mechanic either, but same situation as you. Mechanic wants 1000 euro to do the job, and thats a lot of money on a old car, so have to do it myself instead.

Well done, interesting experiment - regardless as to it lasting, it appears to have at least some life in it. I'll have to PM you for wager delivery details.

I’ve had mats from super Skoda. There’s a red trimmed Vrs version. Not sure if still available http://www.kopacek.com/

I realise from your subsequent postings that the above was a typo and that you were trying and failing to go up the hill forwards. I am surprised that nobody has suggested trying to reverse up when forward motion failed, the weight transfer of the powertrain on a front engined FWD vehicle going forward up an incline loses traction from the front (facing) axle but adds traction to the rear, it is the reason that Bugginbobs RWD BMW was able to climb the hill and not his FWD Octavia, setting aside any differences in tyres.

Mine is not OEM. It's an AliExpress part. As above - the hatch does not have a chrome factory part, like the wagon does, nor r they compatible.

You do get 'Ready Mix' that is to -23 *oC, even to Minus 70*oC which comes branded VW / Audi. The thing about ready mix is that it might not get bacteria building up. But, whatever you use you have to take care, not all are compatible with each other and some end up with a jelly type mess that block the pipes.

They do seem to need more pressure than most Guessing your's is the 2nd entry here? Check of course in fuel flap/ driver door for the car sticker approved for your car/spec/Country Check rear springs don't have the transportation blocks left in them. It could be you have a broken suspension component making the back end seem loose now.

Welcome to the site, It might be guesswork, though the suggestions so far have been good to rule out @nta16 You may need to scan the car with a diagnostic tool, as you may have a short somewhere in the wiring causing this, so a possible fault code could be stored. List of users in map format here... message a few local people, as it increases your chance of success in finding someone.

Yup, PITA. Ours has blown twice during the colder spell.

Thank you for your reply!! I will buy some sealant and do that and see if it changes anything, hopefully that will sort it!!! 🤞🤞🤞🤞🤞🤞

So is the oil 75w 90 or just GL4 ??? Think I need to buy a manual for this car 🤣 im a weirdo and change all fluids on my cars mainly because I’m unsure of what previous owners had put in (if they had changed anything 🤣) I once bought a Focus that when I changed the box oil it had none in we’ll just a smidge topped it up and noticed oil leaking from drive seal so had to drop oil and change the drive shaft seals had been driving it for about 3 months before I decided to change 🤣🤣,,, that’s why I change stuff just so I know 🤣🤣

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Hi, welcome. With the lights on try pushing the light switch in towards the dash - the Owner's Manual is often your friend but you do have to read it and refer to it when required. If you don't have your copy of the printed paper version, or in addition, you can download a pdf version from the following link. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Normally you're best to post in the section for your model and year for such enquiries. ETA: has now been moved. Hopefully a quick, easy, free repair in the warm and without getting your hands dirty, the only type of repair and work on a car.

You would have to be absolutely off your nut to try and make 5x112 wheels fit 5x100 hubs with wobble bolts. Adaptors is the easiest option, the specs posted above (6.5j et50) mean you could run a 20mm adaptor no problem. . They would probably cost what you have paid for the wheels though if you only paid £200. My opinion would be move the wheels on and stick some mk1 octy spyders on instead 👌

I've used these for my mk3 vrs octy and my partners mk3 fabia and also my dad's nissan juke. . All have been of very decent quality and you can do some customisation (coloured edges, different carpet plushness') https://carmats.co.uk/

Ignore the post. I have managed to get one metal one which looks cool and serve the purpose.

I think I may see a possible explanation!!!

yes. this is the part that you need to replace. I have my post somewhere in this forum..I'll see if I can find .

Did she cook the bacon in the fridge?

Go with varoom suggestion ,stoners invisible glass and a clean glass cloth ,proper good stuff 👍

It works after swapping fuse 15 with 32. I now have working front wipers and non working back wiper but I can live with that until I find my spare fuses. Thanks guys.

You know that will make the brake pedal require a hell of a lot more pushing to get any braking effect, I presume.

I've tried several products over the years, but this one has been the best I've tried.

It works on fabia mk1 FL. No probs. But pre FL has primitive electronics obviously..

It might be grippy, but wheeeeeeeee...

Calais 62. It could be worth you trying out the 1.0 Karoq, you may or may not be pleasantly surprised. My 1.0 dsg that I've had 3+years does feel quite nippy to me, when I push the gear selector into sport for overtaking (note I am mid 70s though and no tyro!!). I was sceptical about the performance before buying, but a couple of test runs, began to put me at ease, before signing the deal. I soon found that at motorway speeds (70mph) it has plenty of umph to accelerate comfortably to 80-90mph to pass slower moving traffic, without needing to change down from 7th. It's really rather quiet, smooth and responsive. Clearly no racing car, but it's pokier than I recall my Peugeot 504Ti of years and years ago and that was thought to be a reasonably fast car in it's day. It's also quite possibly better than the 1.6 diesel Karoq in many ways, except maybe for low down torque, so that may put you off. The only diesel I've ever test driven was a 2.0, a year or 2 previous to me aquiring my 1.0. It was a dsg 4wd, which was OK, engine surprisingly quiet compared to any diesel I'd been in previously, but I do prefer my 1.0 petrol - for one thing it has smaller 17" wheels with higher profile tyres that make the ride noticeably better & quieter. I do suspect the 1.0 is the most reliable of all the petrol & diesel Karoqs, though I've no statistics to back up that statement. I've had no trouble of any consequence, up to now at 20,000miles. Long distances that I do monthly, I find more relaxing than any previous car I've owned (includes a BMW523, admittedly the engine in that was super smooth, that's when the head gasket wasn't blowing). I usually travel with the car at least half loaded on runs - just 1 passenger, full boot with cases etc. + rear seats & floor at least half full of stuff, just occasionally right up to the roof, but I've never had 5 people in it, for anything other than a short distance, then only once when the car was 2 weeks old. It does around 50mpg on a 150 mile motorway run in summer and say 45mpg in winter.

The production period of 1.6 TDI's with SCR (AdBlue) was not long. That is a good thing. No idea why a 1.0 TSI is considered not good for long motorway journeys. Perfectly suited to doing those in the UK with the 70 mph speed limit, no extreme routes for hills. It would depend on how loaded the car will be though.

Fuse 15 worth checking, if I remember correctly.

Dont worry about letting other folk down ,when your having such a hard time as your going through concentrate on getting to the good side again ,ime sure everyone who knows you will understand ,be a tad selfish and look after you ,your good friends and colleagues will be happier to see you happy,good luck mate ,i know there just words but ive been in a couple of deep holes myself ,but time friends and talking really do help get you out 👍

@Titanium_Man - Haven't heard much from you in a bit. Hope all is well in your wee part of the world.

I drive like a bat out of hell on twisty B roads in the pitch dark using the standard headlights and have only experienced problems when the lenses got cloudy so I stripped them back and polished them and they're like new again. The beam pattern is subject to a standard and all cars have to comply so your argument that the Fabia is somehow different simply doesn't hold water. I don't really care that some people feel it necessary to stick crap all over their cars but they need to accept that the reason they're doing this is for themselves, not because of some imaginary fault with the car.