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I can confirm that, my previous Octavia had a MIB1 Amundsen and I used both MIB1 and MIB2 SD cards for map updates, both of which worked. Now I have a MIB2 Amundsen and for future proofing purchased a 32GB Skoda SD card off eBay (other auction sites are available).

You have a PM, I can scan the car if you like and see if I can get to the bottom of it all.

Really, you could have 1mm if you wanted, make sure youve got enough room for the wheel weights to clear. So keep it 5mm or so to be safe.

& on the 32gb card it doesn't have to be Skoda, can be Seat or VW. All the head units of VAG mib2 recognise any brand of VAG card whilst mib1 will also work with a mib2 VAG CID. We have had that where some one buys an old car with mib1 and used a mib2 card in it loaded with mib1 maps. Somethings don't change like the CID check between mib1 and mib2. Seat don't have Mapcare so other things need to be done to work around that other than that, all map card rules apply.

ECE1 has Spain, France and the UK which fits on a 16gb card 👍

Kessy can be temporarily AND permanently disabled. From the manual...

I don't either to be fair, I've just over a year to wait for my warranty to run out anyway so hopefully any pros and cons will be better known by then.

OMG #BestChristmasEver!

Press and hold down the Menu or Setup button for about 10 seconds until you see the software train value. Example images above.

Well, that's your problem then. Your heating element it virtually open circuit at 1 Mohm. Assuming a maximum 30A fuse for the circuit then the resistance is of the order of 1 ohm or less. This would result in about 150 watts whereas your 1 Mohm would only produce less than a milli-watt.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/203133-diamond-silver-paint-code http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/244143-diamond-silver-paint-code

The new intake system with carbon fibre airbox; it really is a thing of beauty!

The issue with rechargeable batteries in the key. You need to put the key in/on something to charge them. Which then defeats the point of keyless.

There will be deflection when driving, cornering and braking, I have fitted rims to a girlfriends vehicle when her wheels were stolen & it was left on milk crates, they turned with no interference, no problems on a short backwards and forwards drive so we set off bcak on the 60 mile journey from her place of work in the City, she reported a knocking noise at speed, on bends and on braking, I had to fit (bodge) washers between the wheel & hub flange faces while waiting for the new wheels on insurance. On that basis I would say 4mm minimum, I used 3mm sometimes 2mm clearance on race cars dependant on whether rose jointed or not.

You need this file/location # ECE 1 Andorra, Belgium, Faroe Islands, France, Gibraltar, Iceland, Ireland, Ireland, Luxembourg, Monaco, Netherlands, Portugal, Spain, United Kingdom

Pretty sure that's normal. There are a few varients depending if it's pre-fl or fl and if you have low or high functionally versions fitted 👍

Well, there's this thing called the Internet...

My half-marathon running great nephew from the UK arrived to visit us over Christmas and we have now done a few local runs including my first local Parkrun (yay!) A forecast 41 degree day means we diversified to water activities, but a cool change tomorrow means we are looking for another run in the morning. Quite enjoying the experience of running with someone.

Their claims look really impressive, something I may well consider when mine's out of warrantee. It would be interesting to hear from somebody who's had this done what the results are, also how much? It would be the low torque one for me as it's manual, I seem to remember reading somewhere that the higher powered fwd Seat Leons suffer from a lot of axle tramp too, so I wonder if this would become an issue?

My old Octavia 2001 which looked the same colour was Diamond Silver. I still have the old touch up pen:-

Yeah no problems. I do wonder what the future holds when they finally outlaw filament bulbs entirely even for cars but that is a topic for another time.

hey guys! Finally done Still got a long way to go to get the car perfect but were getting there! engine and brakes are in, next some minor things to fix such as a proper job of insulating the windscreen and all the locks and starter key thing needs fixing too. then ill refurbish the suspension and lower it slightly (30mm) here are some pics. We built the engine mount different than on the original post to keep the belt cover intact.. also didnt need to change the radiator spot because of it.

None 😞

I don't have any updates for either radios. @pab567 Can you check your collection for the above 2x SW Trains?

Hello, Indeed I also noticed this one. For my case however (Lisbon, Portugal), this was done when I dropped my Octavia iV for a major software update (to solve the Navigation settings not saving issue). Tbh I don't notice changes to the recuperation - previously I had mine to "High" and now I have it to "On". I believe they should be the same... but not 100% sure. Would like also to know further... Cheers

Banjo bolt thread is not a standard ISO metric thread so unless a special Helicoil kit has been made for the job it's unlikely you will find one. If you find one then a helicoiled repair will be fine, stronger than the original & shouldn't leak because the banjo bolt brass washer is a larger diameter but it would effectively remove part of its sealing area, I think for that reason and the consequences of the job not being done correctly that nobody will have marketted a repair kit like they do for the caliper slide bolts, I could be wrong.

If the threads have pulled out you can't cut new threads as you can't use a larger banjo nut due to fixed brake line ending. Helicoil requires you cut out threads and glue in new threads. Might work. I looked into this but never used. You are unlikely to remove banjo nut again unless you change brake line or the caliper. Worth a shot, but I'd check your brake lines are holding pressure. I think the kit is £20 plus and a new rear caliper £70 plus, maybe cheaper. Depends whether you want to play Russian roulette every time you brake. I'd buy a new caliper if it was my car.

Yeah, don't do what I did and dig out a loom for 4 hours from a mates L&K! 😆 I'd like the cloth ones personally and to get the middle part retrimmed to match the rest of the interior. As much as I like mine, I'm not a massive fan of leather.

Thick fog descended this evening, but strangely cleared within the hour. Made for a pretty atmospheric walk!

A few from Attenborough nature reserve (yesterday). Was intrigued by the variation in sizes of the Robins - old/young, male/female, fat/thin?

Or repair them as I did (for less than 150-200SEK).

Or take them off and retro fit Plain gas struts For £17

I had a lot of free time today, and it happened! Full map on 16GB card works! To be honest I had to remove a ton of stuff and it still needs more testing! If anyone is intresting in testing it alonside me let me know and I can give you a full list of stuff that I think you "don't need"

Another couple from today, slightly warmer at -7C

Passed its 1st MOT with no problems

I had condensation too in my vRS’s matrix headlights. Both sides changed for new ones under warranty one month ago. I really have to thank how things work with my dealer here in Finland.

The new keys have a motion sensor, and shut down after a few minutes, but you need to put them on a shelf etc, not leave them in your pocket where they return to life every time you move. Kesey seems to be standard now, but in some ways was a solution to a non problem that created new problems.

Hey guys, I knows there’s been chat regarding the aero covers, but I’ve yet to see a picture of a Fabia with them removed. luckily the parts turned up today so I whipped two off to show you the comparison. Ignore the dirty car! Part numbers from skoda-parts.com. Total cost around £53 delivered. Nut caps 321 601 173 A 9B9 (16 of these) Locking nut cap 4F0 601 173 01C (4 of these) Centre caps 5E0 601 151 FOD (4 of these)

Step by step tutorial how to repair broken Skoda Superb II (may also apply to Octavia II) electric tailgate lift strut. Most common reason for faulty struts are moisture damage in electric motor and rusty brush springs. In this video you can see how to open electric motor, clean rust, fabricate new springs and glue all back together. I have videotaped whole process and you can see it in here:

@Patrician, I have made DIY tutorial on how to repair electric struts. Even if your struts are working well at the moment, then it’s wise to maintain/repair them as I did and you don’t have to deal with this issue never again.

Very slightly off topic but can anyone confirm if the USB port in the mirror is a permanent live or does it go off when the ignition is off.