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@toot I asked for something in writing that I would still be covered when my warranty runs out if the problem was nothing to do with ‘Software update’ as I explained I wasn’t going to pay when I’ve taken my car twice now and luckily they did email me.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. With some other engine it has been found that using a lower weight of oil has helped reduce oil dilution but as the VW engineers only specify their VW oil code specification (probably for the additive package to help with compromises in the engines?) there could be a range of oil weights. In the UK it might be 5w40, 5w30, 0w30 but you would know better which weight is better for use where you live. ETA: I am not suggesting a different weight of oil will overcome a fault with the engine in this car. I am with the others that suggest you reject this car as I cannot remember seeing anything about oil dilution on here - and - it has an oil oil leak - and - not much use in three years is generally not that good for a car, I would prefer higher mileage and or regular use over reasonable distance journeys. The absent of error codes does not mean there are not problems, do not over rely on error codes or the car's warning lights and messages as all can show too late to be of the best use. As you have already found human senses, including the mind can be in advanced of the car's error codes and warning lights and messages. If it was me I would walk away from the car and the Dealer.

A few from Attenborough nature reserve. Love is in the air ♥️

Hi Pete, obd reader displayed cylinder 1 replaced all spark plugs & new ignition coil. Took it for a good run best I have felt it ever run more responsive. Good idea keep other replaced coils if any future problems with new. Thanks again, I have seen your responses to other guys on forum very knowledgeable & helpful Len👍

Hi TMB Found it thanks, fixed today fault was cylinder 1 misfiring renewed ignition coil all spark plugs running so much better. Have ordered 2 new coils may as well have all new. Thanks again👍

Doesn’t matter what tyre you run, hit a nasty unseen pothole obscured by water or unavoidable due to oncoming traffic your tyre is done. Had Q7s, Kodiaks Q4 étron Q8 étron Tiguans Touaregs all with torn sidewalls this week to deal with. Q7 needed a new wheel. But yes I take your point, you are more likely to suffer damage with a band of rubber masquerading as a tyre.

I like a quiet car without the raucous exhaust note, all a noisy exhaust does is attract the unwanted attention of the police and your neighbours. It's nice to have a sporty car without the attention of others.

Nothing wrong with that. Having been around in the era when they often wouldn't start, didn't keep you dry and sometimes didn't get 20mpg. My first car - a Standard 10 - only met one of those criteria!

The most likely culprit to me is the turbo if it’s burning that much oil. You wouldn’t push that much through the CCV and the engines are usually strong.

I would remove and manually pull out the pinion and spray a little silicone grease on the shaft after making sure it looks clean, last one I did needed only this, was just too much friction between the shaft and the seal due to dirt.

I'm just outside Dornoch mate, my 2 options would be Arnold Clark or Howco. Both Inverness. It's 2 hour round trip plus hanging about Inverness all day. I stay on my own in middle nowhere and have 3 dogs to care for. I can't leave them for whole day. I have a really good mechanic local and would use genuine parts.

Yup, sounds starter to me too.

Well im no expert but the brother in laws Mk IV Golf TDi made that noise for years 😉 It sounds like the starter motor pinion gear is dry and causing friction on the shaft as it disengages. This should spin freely as the solenoid withdraws. To fix it the starter will have to come out and either take it to get refurbished or as a temporary measure load it with spray grease !! As I said I could be totally wrong but you can either rule it in or rule it out 👍

Finally got the car wooop woop! Getting used too the size :0. Already had a motorbike scrap the me side, didn't check his blind spot and it was the First day driving it back 5 mins from home! Can't see any dents though thank god.

Dont get your hopes up. 😅

I’ve got all the bits to retrofit one in my petrol superb, just not got around to it and now it’s too cold to be doing it right now

I bought an Octavia II 1Z (first reg March 2010) (1.8 Petrol, Auto) a month ago and I always like to have a bunch of like-mindeds around me when my stuff breaks down. Thanks for putting this place together!

Thanks for that, just need to work out where the break point is

Have you checked the big fuses in the box under the bonnet and the connections going to them, have also heard of a broken wire from the positive clamp to the loom and also came across a bad earth from body to battery, there' s akso a crcuirt board and relays under the steering wheel which can be faulty can't remember what they call it but it does have a name something like stable control unit, a mate had to replace the whole board with a used one but he found if he thumped under the wheel on the panel it did start working but he never knew when it was going to fail again it was hit and miss

Edinburgh toe rags are maybe nutters but they are not stupid. If the want to pan in your windows they will and if they want the car they will have it.

I am sure that Autocar, / What Car, Auto Express and others will be interested to hear that about the Fabias. There are now Mk4 Fabias out and they are looking to resolve Mk3 issues. Plenty new cars have issues with SOS, and over the air updates. Maybe 85% of all Skoda being first registered in the UK. Now VW Group will love that as a news story. I hope you have that persons name.

Canton been out for a long time now. They claim it's cause of chip shortages, and at the moment this option is only available for Superb and Kodiaq. Question is, if this will be leased/company car, or are you buying as private person. If the latter one, than just replace the speakers and add some amp. Will cost similar or a bit more than Canton, but will sound better.

Software issues are a Mk4 Octavia issue, the Mk3 & Mk3.5 are generally okay AFAIK. The infotainment system is much, much nicer IMO. Bigger, clearer, capacitative rather than resistive. Very nice! I do like the "proper" buttons of the old system, but all things considered, I prefer the new. The looks you get used to. I've now grown to love my Mk3.5's distinctive look, but I can understand why a lot of people don't like it. Additionally, the 1.5 TSI is far more likely than the 1.4 to have a particulate filter fitted. One more thing to go wrong, but generally the 1.5 TSI seems to be a pretty good engine. One plus of the 1.5 is that it's likely to be mated to a later gearbox, and the later the DSG the better. I know everyone seems to like the 1.0 engine, but if buying 2nd hand, I personally wouldn't touch one if I was buying a car to keep for some years. I think it's a bit underpowered, but then I like big grunty engines having driven diesels for a couple of decades. Not sure if the 150ps engines have IRS, but I'm pretty sure the 115ps engines don't have it. I think your idea of a 1.4/1.5 petrol DSG SE L would be a good call, especially if you can find one spec'd with one or two nice extras like heated seats or the full winter pack. I wouldn't worry too much about the silica bag issue. Check the coolant is nice and pink and the heating inside the car is even on driver and passenger side, then whip that silica bag out and replace the G13 coolant with G12evo and you should be golden.

It's possible to find the version by VIN, but I don't have access to that system (I've seen it) A VCDS scan of the car might reveal what's fitted currently loaded and I could look to see if the file has been released.

It’s sure a mad world out there and we’re all different with different priorities and/or preferences. We’re just home from visiting a friend who I’d been told was considering changing her car. For no good reason other than it’s about 5 years old. Bought and paid for. Low miles. Mint condition. Right size. Suits her needs nicely. I left her with the suggestion to keep it and not be afraid of an MOT test and any routine maintenance work.

Not having a working alarm is a blessing in disguise, you don't have to put up with false alarms. No-one is gonna nick it anyway.

I've heard of people placing their car keys inside a Faraday pouch to stop transmitting signals, but this is the first I've heard of someone placing a whole dealership in one. 🤣

Have now done 119k+and had the emission fix done. before the fix had been done the regen hardly came on but now it comes on with the slightest journey. Also at the beginning had the oil change every two years but now each year .

Mk3 is not Mk2 nor Mk1. As far as I can remember, never read any DSG thermostat issue thread concerning Mk3 here over the last 5 years... 🤔

Try removing and cleaning up the main electrical connections.

Do not grease the pinion, if there is any stiffness it will be in the solenoid or actuating arme anyway but it is a complete red herring. The pinion can disengage as slow as it likes, people with slow reflexes or hearing loss may not even release the key for a few seconds, as soon as the engine fires the pinion freewheels on the internal one way sprag clutch (roller ramp clutch) and when they start to fail they make the exact noise in the video, the same noise that an alternator pulley makes when the same one way clutch (fitted for a different reason) goes bad. On a large capacity motorcycle engine the starter pinion is in constant mesh with the ring gear, the ring gear carrier drives the crankshaft through a one way clutch, this will be spinning freewheeling at 11500 rpm without a murmer but if it fails then the starter motor will hit 100K rpm and vaporise, or as I found to my cost if you fit the bike engine and transmission unit into a race car and go into a spin unless you have lighning reflexes to declutch you will end up with a pile of smoking shrapnel under the bonnet. If you can source the part the sprag clutches are easy to replace and repair an otherwise functional starter motor for very little money.

Thanks people! I agree it sounds just like:- note: a few months ago I did actually remove and attempt to re-grease the starter thinking it was that, but it didn’t make any difference. I can’t have done a good enough job. I’ll do it again but with a rebuilt one from eBay (too much work to mess about), went for: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323768658186?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=wESXVx7VRnS&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=j1LvZPJGTWm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY i will report back. Thank you all!

Hello, S, not sure why the smoke stops when the MAF is unplugged - but from your description, it seems that your engine is burning lubricating oil. This could be due to worn piston rings or valve guides, but I would not expect that much wear at your mileage - are you sure of mileage history? Another thing could be PCV valve - which could fit with the symptoms - but high oil use from excessive crankcase pressure would still indicate worn or broken piston rings. How much oil is it using per 1000 miles?

If the engine temp is going up and down, what makes you suspect it’s the DSG thermostat that needs to be replaced?

http://briskoda.net/forums/forum/175-skoda-octavia-guides http://briskoda.net/forums/forum/212-performance-tuning-upgrades Try an internet search of the likes of briskoda octavia mk3 dtuk tuning box or use the Briskoda search function

I'm having my aircon checked soon, when the temperature rises. Same engine as yours but a Toledo. It's not as efficient as it used to be, well never been regassed in 8 years🤔 and it's the first winter I've had problems clearing the fogged up windows. For one the aircon will not work at temps below 3°, that's normal according to experts and the handbook, well if I remember below 4° it says there. A check with my car suggests the heat is getting through to the inside of the car so have discounted the stat or a sensor at fault, that's without the aircon on. Have you got a coolant temp reading in the MFD, mine reads ok (around high 80's) warmed up?

New 3" custom cat back valved exhaust being made. Maybe some Inconel/ceramic DP insulation to,despite it's already ceramic coated. Pics soon

Yes sorry. All getting a bit of an everything. The OP has a TDI i suppose so no Spark Plug change there, and no idea how they use their Scout or where, or where any other members do. Checks and simple stuff saves being ripped off at Dealership, filters can get a shake, a vacuum or a blow through with an airline, but the minimum needs to be checked IMO. The stuff an apprentice used to get to do first, like hinges and stuff.

I am affraid that driving gloves will not solve the problem. While booking my Karoq for TA removal I was lucky to meet a guy from factory whose specialization is to deal with software problems. He says at this moment there is no idea whatsoever what triggers malfunction warnings. He admitted that the problem is not solely caused by faulty sensors in steering wheel but by interaction between sensors and other TA components, even if sensors are working properly. That is why the problem was rarely solved by changing of steering wheel. In view of all this, I am affraid that disabling emergency assist is for time being the only way how to get rid of disturbing beeps. All we can do is to hope that SA will find a working software solution.

There is the issue. UK it is at 3 years / 30,000 miles as it has been for over a decade when Skoda followed a bit after VW having to do R,s at 4 years / 40,000 miles. Places have it as pick a number any number then it gets repeated when the original person had no idea. Ps. As to rear diff there are suggestion of at 90,000 miles. But then a member was launching boats reversed into the sea. Well the rear diff axle has no raised breathers like you might fit to an offroader. Dunk a hot axle and you might just be wanting to change the diff oil more often than never. Skoda UK can not be bothered to have much more than stuff like this published. The website has more showing Electric cars and hybrids but otherwise it is pretty much like this. DSG not by years or all are @ 40,000 miles.

Now I've rectified the issue problem is sensor wire is damaged due to rat bitted the wires. And the sensor location is left side bumper grill

Welcome, To see if there is petrol in the oil from bore wash or an injection issue, use the dip stick, take it away from the car and with a match / lighter held near to the oil on the dipstick see if you get a flame. Simple test, but a normal one to get an idea if gasoline in the oil.

Thanks everyone. I was only able to get low tack duct tape at short notice. It'll keep me going for a few days until I get helicopter tape or similar. I have two repair quotes now and just need to do the sums on an insurance claim and see how soon I can get it fixed.

Its like night and day, no more floating or leaning.. The ride is pretty much the same so thank you spring for breaking, its the push I needed to do it..

@New11 be careful, this may only be true short term. It is often plugged by salesman. However new PCPs are currently at high interest rates, and if inflation falls in few months could be paying well over inflation in 2 years time. If you are going to keep the car another few years, then rolling it with another PCP will just put you in same dilemma at end of that one. It is very easy to get on a merry-go-round with PCP extensions that you cannot afford to get out of (except by having no car). Work backwards, how many years will you keep car, (eg another 5, or perhaps to 10th birthday etc). Feel free to take out a bank loan (and use a comparison site for rates), but don't make the repayment period longer than your minimum keep car to date (you don't want to be still paying the loan when sold the car). Because the loan and car are not formally linked it would be easy to sell the car and forget to pay off any outstanding loan balance. For obvious reasons also a bad idea to consolidate a loan into extra mortgage (you might then be still making repayments in 15-25 years time, however long your mortgage has to go). Without knowing your financial circumstances, assume cheapest loan will be your bank or another lender. You might be able to take out a balance transfer onto a new credit card for about 3% for part of the amount (but make sure it is paid off before special period expires, otherwise likely to be paying 30+%). You really don't want to be paying anything with high interest. Use the internet and multiple financial comparisons sites, might not be a bank, and the interest rate will depend on circumstances. Sometimes rate is lower for bigger amounts over £5000 or £7000. Generally if there are rate tiers (lower interest for bigger amounts) then will be less interest to borrow the £7000 than just under a threshold eg £6900 at a higher rate. There are loans being advertised under 5% (but there are qualifying requirements) There is a chance interest rates will fall, they have already started to ease, so might be better waiting until nearer when balloon payment is due (but of course no one has a crystal ball so can't predict what rate you might get in a few months), there is a risk rate will go higher

Apologies if you think I'm being pedantic but you didn't buy the car, to date all you've done is rented it from the owner ( i.e. the finance company ). What price you think you purchased it for it is irrelevant. As others have said you need to know how much your car is actually worth and what the GFV Guaranteed future value or 'balloon payment' is. Doesn't sound like you've done that. A: How much will you have to pay the finance company for you to own the car at the end of the agreement? ( or you can call them up or login to VWFS website and find out how much it will cost to end or rather 'settle' the agreement this month ). B: How much is your car worth. Go to somewhere like WeBuyAnyCar.com, enter the details ( accurarely ). Now bear in mind your PCP ends in 6 moths time, not today. The figure you receive today will only be accurate if you're going to be buying your car in the next few weeks. The equity you have in your car will be the difference between B and A For example if your baloon payment is £15000 and Drive the deal are offering you £20000 then you have £5000 equity. I've used a credit card ( at the dealers request, not mine ) to buy a car but paid off the amount when my bill arrived. But if you're not going to pay it off a.s.a.p then I'd never recommend a car be purchased on a credit card. If I were in your position I'd be looking at a bank loan. Check out sites like MoneySavingExpert. To use just one example, you can borrow £15,000 from Sainsburys Bank at 4.8% APR fixed if you're a Nectar card holder. Don't know what Barclaycard charge but it's be something like 22% variable - i.e. it'll increase if BofE increase interest rates.

Hi @DadWagon, I might as well add my tuppence worth to this topic. I'm not sure what is actually motivating the change since you seem quite happy with the mk2 and I can understand this as my old mk2 estate (with 1.9pd) was a joy to drive, especially after a couple of Korean MPV and SUV family dictated needs vehicles. I'm guessing your mk2 has independent rear suspension, which you would lose by transferring to the mk3 with rear torsion beam on the lower power versions (irs only on 4wd and vrs models). The latter is not well regarded by some in this forum although I found that driven normally, on normal roads I cannot tell much difference between them. However on Australian dirt roads the mk2 irs and the 15 inch tyres provided a far better ride of the two but that's probably not a real issue around Maidstone . I'd personally avoid any bigger wheels than 17 inch though. There is better space for rear passenger in the mk3, Halogen headlights are slightly better, but even more so in the face lift version of the mk3 but higher spec headlights are recommended if you drive on unlit sections. The mk3 is quite a light vehicle for its size with the smaller petrol engines fitted and so are quite nimble and potentially very economical if you drive 'sensibly'. I drive more sensibly than my wife but even she averages around 6L/100 around town. Like @Rodge I only drive manuals so cannot comment on DSG versions. Good luck with your search and try to get a few test drives to see what you are getting, or losing, with a change.

I feel that whatever we tell you, won't be enough.. if you think the car is designed badly, maybe you got the wrong car. The inlet manifold would be removed if any issues has occurred. And believe me, I know what issues could occur because I had 3x 1.9 engines suffering from sludge and carbon buildup - sticky turbo vanes, EGR stuck opened, loss of power, etc. None of them appeared on my car for almost 150k km. No error codes regarding such issues.