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You just need to use the correct tool for the job really. .50 BMG should do it, if you have two warning lights, then the 20mm is perfect. Strictly not helpful, but damn worth a shot (pun intended)

Yes getting the battery paired to the car was what I was referring too. If you have VCDS, it's worth double checking, as someone recently had their 70Ah input as 7Ah @DuncanDisorderly

You can save crawling around if you look at the top/back area of your engine. Look for black/grey heat wrap with some buttons usually, and if you pop them open to reveal this, you have GPF.

Moved the thread to the Octavia section of the forum 👍

Hi All, I've ordered an Octavia vRS hatch (2.0 TSI, DSG) in December of 2021 as a company car. There is nothing special in it (black color, alarm system, front parking radar, spare wheel). The first predicted delivery date was 2023 March. Then April, and now the 22th week, so end of May. Who ordered any BMW, or VW or Toyota, all has been delivered. From this week, you can't order an Octavia in Hungary for the next 1 year (but as I see in the other countries yes). The dealer said it's because the factory is full until 2024 spring. I think it's not the true reason why mine order is late. Last week my company ordered another Octavia (1.5 TSI DSG Ambition estate with lack of extras), and the price is only 1300€ less then my vRS was. I have no info, just when I write to the dealer. Very frustrating. I guess this will be my last Skoda...If I ever get it.

1 Bar = 14.5038 psi 2 Bar = 29.0075 psi 3 Bar = 43.5113 psi I've never heard of anyone confusing Bar with PSI as they are so different. If you accidentally inflated your tyres to 2.5 psi rather than 2.5 Bar, they would look almost flat.

@rumburake Good news. Just fingers crossed. It saves you money. I would avoid that place for getting work done or no work.... If the car is not a keeper or you have a warranty & the timing belt is covered & you have what you were told in writing. They are right. The Timing Belt is for life. When it fails it will be the end of it's life. Maybe they can say how long the life of the tensioner and bearing might be. They are correct on the DQ200 DSG. Which is good at least. Just as long as they do not tell the same to those with a DQ381. Some are told it is a dry clutch DSG. Those with a Kodiaq 1.5 TSI or a AWD car wit that engine will have a DQ381..

Yes, not sure they would accept 20 Euro for a "quick" scan 😆 Well you might be better making a new thread to discuss some of the tool choices here... https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/ This way some members can make recommendations on the Pro's and Con's of each. My only things I have heard about the "one-click" type solutions is they can make mistakes and then to unravel it can be harder (if you are making coding changes) but for scanning also, not sure on how they are with the manufacturer fault codes. Make a post is what I would recommend, then sift through the replies to ask more questions, or make an informed decision.

Hello, welcome to the forum. You need to be particularly careful if using any volatile spray, particularly on a diesel, when it is running - doing that could cause an uncontrolled engine runaway! As for the oil around the top of the engine, was the oil level checked - was it above the max. marking? If so, this could be a symptom of fuel getting into the engine sump. There could also be an issue with excess crankcase pressure from worn piston rings - especially at your mileage.

If you want to be totally sure before you spend money changing the starter/solenoid, you can test it the opposite way by dropping 12v from the battery down a bit of wire straight to the spade connector on the solenoid. If the key is off, it should spin over when you connect the power (make sure you're not in gear), or start if the key is on.

I contacted Angus Council about the newest charger in Forfar and the temp barriers and contractors that were looking at it the other day to see about some reel for the charger cables. Seemingly this charger is here designed to be user friendly for the disabled. That is why there is a dropped kerb. So today someone called me from the council roads department. What a breath of fresh air. A EV driver. I told him I am disabled but not a wheel chair user and really the Planner/ techs and council boss need to get a wheel chair or a wheel chair user and come try using this charger.. I think there might be some discussions taking part. Including proper signage. Months on from being turned on and the longest cables fitted. Pics going off to the Council Leader and to the various local councillors. Maybe the next time they are in the area they can look at how the spend public money badly, and then have to correct their mistakes at more expense. Bottom pic from my post on the 3rd September, So 6 months since the charger was powered up and the Line Painters failed to put Electric Vehicle Charging Only on the bays.

I've finally jumped on the DCC Slider mod bandwagon. The new DCC maps give the car a much more composed ride. We didn't have to do the DCC recalibration as I had already done that a while ago. While there, I also got the 60 Sec Lane keeping tweak. Tis good not having to touch the steering wheel every 12 secs 🙂 The DCC slider mod requires the Gateway module to b updated and loaded with the appropriate maps, including updating the DCC module software update. The 60 Sec Lane requires a software update on the A5 (camera) module.

@UrbanPanzermight be able to help with what you require to do with the conversion to get the full beam flash. There is a thread about with someone else that did as you have had had the same issue.

Another standard one earlier in the week for the big Ford.

@Caj109 Just like this. OK as long as the stuff has been put on the system.

Thank you so much for that information. I had no idea that an independent might be able to assist with Hal 9000. My dealership has no interest whatsoever in resolving my problems. They’re very interested in my wallet however. I’ll retire to the Fabia III area now, and annoy people there. Cheers!

Generally a fault with the driver's side window motor module. I have a repair service: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/497084-window-motor-repair-service/

Thank you so much. That gives me some clarity. Really appreciate it.

8U0071497 is shown in the accessory catalogue for the Audi Q3 as shown below. These alloy rims are sold to be used with 215/60R17 winter tyres on the Audi Q3. 6.5Jx17 ET33 5/112 57.1 alloy rim 8U0071497 1 8U0071497 Aluminium rim 5 spokes 6.5Jx17 ET33 8U0071497 8Z8 Diamond silver

The main loom for the rear runs down the right inner cill....

Aye, the light has only ever come on twice now for this issue. The fault code itself can be cleared (and my fuel economy returns to 'normal', but returns after two or three times that the engine is run. I can do some data logging, but it'll have to be on Sunday when I can get a hold of the wee machine (it's one of these LAUNCH do-it-all things) as although I do have a Bluetooth OBD reader that could do this, I smashed my mobile phone and I'm reduced to the one that barely gets by. Will keep all concerned informed in due time.

I've been on the phone with a Skoda dealer, I have scheduled service and MOT coming up anyway. I asked about the Cambelt, first they said it's coming up at 5 years/no mileage, but then, when I asked for a quote, they checked with the service came back that the Cambelt doesn't need to be changed on schedule, they said "it's for life"! I'm not sure in this case why some say 5 years and some say don't change. How would you know if it's about to snap?! I mean, nothing lasts forever, or does it? For what is worth, my engine code is DADA and I have a 7-speed DSG (gearbox also without oil change on schedule!).

Okay all sorted now. I fitted the new switch (part number 1C0945511A) and the warning light still remained on. I then tried to cancel the fault code with VCDS in the way I had done so previously and still no joy. However..... I then went into the 'Select control module' menu, then 'Engine' and cleared the fault code under that menu and now it works perfectly! Cruise control, brake lights and no warning lights on. So, either the switch was indeed the issue and it took a few seconds for the warning light to go out, or (more likely) I was clearing the fault code under the incorrect menu (Auto-scan, and then clear) and I am a massive pillock. Either way, all is good now and the Fabia doesn't have to go in the bin just yet!

Hi, Mike here. I have a similar rebooting problem, I have a 2015 Superb Estate, my Columbus unit has DAB radio, I can't enter setup mode. Model number is 3T0 035 686 N , HW: H27 , SW:6276. Initially I thought the HDD was failing so after using Paul's excellent HDD replacement instructions I found my unit already has a 32Gb PATA SSD drive (Cactus KD32GF-210 FW:0513.) I connected it to my PC and checked the contents. There are 3 partitions, one of which show up in windows formatted in FAT32. I successfully made an image backup (using Ashampoo Backup Pro) and restored it to an old 80gb disk I had spare. Because it successfully copied I then reassembled the original parts and the fault remains. One thing I noted is that the fault initially was intermittent but gradually becoming worse, the colder the weather the more likely it would work normally I am waiting for a cold night to see if it bursts into life again. I think my firmware is the latest but not sure, my maps are well out of date (as original installed). Anyone have any thoughts about the above? I'm Thinking about buying a refurbished unit with latest maps but no DAB and maybe try fixing mine in the meantime Thanks in advance, Mike Bush

Definitely on the TDi (110).

The car had 98k miles when I changed the belt and pump, it was previously done in 2015 at 55k miles

If it helps, getting from 288mm to 312mm discs just needs new caliper carriers, discs and pads. You'd certainly need new calipers to fit the 310mm discs AFAIK.

Gotcha, well there are other similar tools, OBDeleven? Not one I have ever used myself. The other way I justified my expense many years ago was thinking of how many dealer/independent workshops visits would it take to cover the expense of purchase. Mine has done me a massive service for the time I have used it. They also do hold up on resale value quite well if you left the VAG stable. And of course, the other way is to pay a forum member that's local if possible some beer tokens for a scan here and there.

A quick Google of VCDS will show you, it doesn't need much power to run the program. There are other tools other than this, so perhaps look down in the diagnostic section of the forum to ask anything you need.

A low battery can cause no end of fault codes that then disappear when the Voltage is healthy again. It might also be an intermittent fault in a loom wire that will come and go, until it becomes permanent fixture.

Correct, the DPF or GPF will use a G450 or G505 sensor 🤝It will look same, along with a pipe(s) down to the filter.

Reminds me of the similar thing in front of the drivers bulkhead DPF pressure sensor because I had one replaced on a TDI.

Perhaps it is, but there are no reports of worn synchros on Up!/Citigo/Mii, that I have seen, if you check the bigger forums.... If there is a crunch on selecting reverse, or indeed any gear, when the car is stationary, having started the car with foot on clutch (ie 'box is also stationary), then that's not going to be a synchro issue (and for obvious reasons if there is a crunch on reverse).

Hi there, I would like to say a word about this as I changed the belt kit on my brother's 57 plate bxw engine fabia about 6 months ago, it had been 7 years and 40k miles since it was last changed. Whilst I agree the timing belt itself is good for a long time, they were still in very good condition on my brother's car, one of the tensioners had failed, the water pump was leaking badly and the idler was rough. It was very lucky the timing had not jumped. Maybe this was an isolated case and I'm not a mechanic or engineer but it appears the tensioner, water pump and idlers fail before the belt, ending with the same consequence of a damaged engine.

The MXS 5 is probably the most useful as it has a higher charge rate. As you have noticed they are pricy! so it pays to really shop around Amazon is fairly good but shop around. The most used accessory is the (cigarette lighter) power socket adapter lead.

Please note I used to have an octavia, but have a superb mk2

Yeah, just don't try and fix anything that ain't broke. On a 230k engine that's running well, best advice is to leave well alone and just service it on schedule.

Well if you're talking rubber, then you have choices Anyhow I strayed off topic, but if it made you smile 😄 EDIT: Being serious for one moment, I never bothered too much with all the tyre snobbery that can exist, I just had a mobile tyre fitted that I trusted to fit something that would keep me as a repeat customer.

I thought the interval was 30k, however I'm possibly wrong... Skoda don't do it right no matter if you follow their service schedule 😠 In any case, and going by experience and also from others reporting similar issues, reducing the interval to 20k or 2 years should drastically reduce the pump failure issue. The other weak point is the Haldex ECU which corrodes over time due to exposure to the elements underneath. This causes water ingress to the PCB and corrosion and then faults, its almost unavoidable and time/environment related. I am trying to get this sorted on mine just now and will report back in due course. Cheers

Is cabin fuse 25 intact, with clean contacts?

What year is the car please?

I went with the Bilstein B4 dampers, which are the OE version and are generally thought of as being better than the standard dampers. Springs, if you do not wish to lower it then just refit the springs you have. I opted for a set of Eibach Pro Springs. They lower the car about an inch over standard but are a much more refined ride. My wife comments how much smoother the car is and less jittery. Whilst they are off I would also fit new top mounts. I also changed the anti roll bar links too. The cheapest place I found was from Autodoc for the full set.

Wonder what your experience will be, Pete....

im a bit slow updating this, but now having had all the looms stripped down for inspection and test as far as poss, i concluded it must be the ABS pump module at fault. I sent it of to ECU Testing in Derby for repair and they have confirmed it as a hardware fault with the unit, but are unable to repair it, or supply a replacement. The local skoda garage wanted £1100 for one, and none of the scrapyards have one of the correct part number. As i speak there is one coming from Spain that i found on Ebay for £100 - fingers crossed its a good one. keep you posted.

Actually, the P denotes that the fault is within the power train system, and going one step further, when the code relates to the heater element specifically it usually means that the O2 sensor itself is the issue and not the wiring.

What a strange debate this is turning into, my own thought's about any safety features is preventing accidents is best. Who wants to anchor up hard to find the pedal hits the floor, and you plough into something. Same with tyres, why wait for 1.6mm of tread to find out.

my normal lights now. and my head lights

While it’s a bit of a blurry photo, the difference is over nominal 😁

I got this working myself today. it's not coding, it's not adaptation, it's paramaters, for which you need vcp with the correct zdc file , or odis-e with the correct xml paramater set. I have odis-e, and got my hands on the correct paramaters. You need a vas5054a and a copy of odis-e installed to use these paramaters they are marked for software version 261 hardware H13, my module (late 2016) was 'J' revision and had this software and hardware you can see your hardware and software versions near the top of a vcds scan of module 6d VCP try and catch these paramater sets during communication between VAG group and copies of ODIS-E, they try and grab them and save them, then encrypt them in their zdc format to stop them being freely shared around, but if you have the xml paramaters (i.e. native ODIS-E) , you can share them, if you have VCP and want the right .zdc for this, you can probably use a converter to convert these to .zdc Again, I used ODIS-E ( via my aliexpress sources vas5054a adapter) and this worked a charm superb close boot from inside.7z

You will not find just the pinion to buy. You have to buy the entire speedometer drive. How proficient are you in electronics?