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Taxi drivers do not charge customers the same fare as they did a few years back so mechanics can not be expected to either. Then there is cash in hand or parts and labour & 20% vat so be considered, then location location location. At least with Taxis and business's the servicing and maintenance is just another overhead to be taken into account before you pay tax on the profits.

Hi, Back on the forum with my recently purchased Yeti (my third Yeti). Had a Karoq, never herbed the alloys like I did in this one! Most recent was a Kia Soul EV, public charging was a nightmare to say the least so back to the car I most liked, a Yeti!

Here these hopefully match...

Further reading if you need to learn the background details, they mention beefed up components. I certainly never had any trouble with many miles of stop/start journeys. https://procarmanuals.com/pdf-online-vag-ssp-426-start-stop-system-2009/

I fitted CrossClimate + to my Yeti just after I bought it 3 years ago. It came on fairly worn Michelin Pilot Primacy. I love the CrossClimates. I think it's fair to say they've transformed the ride, handling, road holding and steering feel. They charge through standing water without flinching. They're almost as good on snow as the Dunlop D5 Winter Sport we have fitted to the Karoq, only losing out a bit on braking in those conditions. The slightly rounded tread profile introduces a really nice feel to the steering. They also tolerate my enthusiastic cross country driving style and provide enough grip to deploy all 186 bhp and c. 300 lbs-ft through all 4 wheels on a regular basis. Now, there's the new CrossClimate 2 which is reputedly even better.

Hi sorry for the late reply, had quite a busy weekend. The car is perfect. I have had no warnings pop up or any errors so can't complain. I think I should be able to charge the car every Saturday at work for about 8 hours which should be enough to counter a week of draining it especially if if the weather warms up and I do lots of longer drives. This is really good to know, thanks! Going back to @nta16and @varooommentioned about a battery change, I found this video and left me with no questions: How To Replace and ADAPT a VW or Audi Battery As I said i'm not ready to upgrade or change the battery yet but unless you think otherwise this video is quite good? Would you say the OBDeleven device he used was good and a good investment?

There comes a time to step back from the specs and pictures. Go for the test drive, drive it intuitively using your Focus as a reference to score the thing against. Then look at the options which may or may not add to the utility /enjoyment of driving the car. For example, a heated windscreen is a godsend if you have you have to get up at sillyoclock to drive to work every day, if you don't have to do that is it worth the money? How far forward does the front passenger seat fold down, if you regularly want to get long planks of wood in its rather important, if not then its irrelevant (the answer is it does not fold a lot 🤬).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Thanks for reporting back. All seems a bit odd but nothing you can sort now and if it's working with such an easy 'repair' that at least is good.

Taken from factory manual, for May 2011+ build, seems to match up with what's really in your car fuse board.

So I dropped my Fabia off at my trusted independent garage one morning. I rang at lunch time to see what progress had been made and they said it was fixed. A connector had come off the horn itself. He said it was unusual that this had happened (ex Volkswagen mechanic) and had no explanation for it. It was working for it's MOT at the end of November. After that it went to a Skoda main dealer for its 4th year service. I can't remember using the horn since then.

I did not replace any modules. This involves just software - using a different dataset of parameters. A person I know has the special ODIS and VCP tools which enables him to update the software revisions, and load parameter datasets. For this, the dataset used for the Arteon & Passat was loaded into the Gateway & DCC modules. So not only do u get the DCC Slider (15 levels), u also get a much better/effective suspension mapping, resulting in a much much better ride. U definitely feel the difference - it's no placebo effect. The car feels more composed. It has completely eliminated the remaining bounce effect. The suspension settles much faster. No more body roll. Really pleased with it 👍🏽 An alternative that I've recently seen on the market is APR's SCU tune, however that replaces the existing DCC module with their own, and it costs 100x the amount I paid for the DCC Slider mod. https://www.goapr.com/products/suspension/suspension_controller/

I intended to buy a Scala 1.1 in SE trim, until I randomly test drove a1.5 demonstrator. I liked that engine very much and that is what I bought! It is smooth and lots of torque, I don't drive like an idiot and the thing gives me over 53mpg on a decent trip at road speed and 30ish in stop start urban. The only way to decide which version to buy is to drive both if you can. I have never driven the 1.1 TSI engine so I can't comment on that, except to say that there aren't many (any?) complaints about it on here. My previous car had a Peugeot 3 cylinder 1 litre engine, which is well regarded and the turbo gave it plenty of go for motorway but I found gear changing in urban motoring a pain. My Scala is a manual box and that's fine. My only 'whinge' is that the 1,5 engine is so smooth that sometimes I don't realise what gear I am in, until I try to accelerate from 10mph in 6th that is!!!!! I like to drive intuitively without looking at the dials (except for speed) and the lack of noise and vibration sometimes catches me out. I call this version of the Scala a 3rd gear car, bung it in third and you can drive between 10 to 50 almost anywhere without changing gear😀

Low profile tyres, bad roads. Real world damage. If the dealers that sell Pirelli tyres or others are not interested in helping then you are stuffed. You will have hit a pothole or iron works on the road. Not really a manufacturing fault. I did get a pair of very new Maxxis AP11 replaced with a bulge, but then they had cracking as well. It was the seller credited me. That was MyTyre, not Maxxis. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/382657-maxxis-ap2-all-season-tyres My Michelin Alpin 6 bulged this winter, that was me again driving and hitting potholes. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/488370-michelin-alpin-6-winter-tyres

So today i done away with the chrome badges and changed the grill for a honey combe.

Perfect. Thank you!

Stop start cars are fitted with a larger capacity battery and stronger starter motor to make up for more use.

Replacement mate.

Dangerous?? How? At the very most it gives you a gently nudge/vibration so I fail to see how it’s dangerous? Its a minor inconvenience at worst, and unless you have the strength of a 3 year old I really fail to see how it’s dangerous. Somebody, please enlighten me.

Stopped for a while in traffic and into N with the Parking Brake applied does the job without going through reverse and flashing the reversing light and then into P and having the front wheels locked as well, then back through R & N to D.

How else would it restart if not by using the starter motor? 🤔 The potential issues are increased starter motor wear and shorter battery life.

If you have an AUX in to the stereo, just download a DAB app for your phone, make sure the phone is charged / powered whislt in use, plug that in ?? no cost at all. or https://www.carbuyer.co.uk/tips-and-advice/162334/best-dab-car-radio-adaptors-to-buy

If your car is trying to regen every couple of days, then it thinks the previous one didn't finish the job, and still got more to do. If it needs a catch-up then a 20 minute trip is far too short, probably looking at a 30 minute regen starting from when everything is hot enough. Which on a cold winters day is likely to be 15-25 minutes. So going to need at least 50 minutes use. Once back to regular regens back to nearer 25 minutes (plus about 10 minutes extra in cold weather). Without knowing the service or usage history, there is a chance previous owner did lots of short journeys too, if too many regens are incomplete tend to get an ash and soot build up which sort of bakes on and a regen won't ever fully clean. As previous replies have said, can scan for the ash level which will give you indication of how clogged the DPF is. Don't want to be bearer of bad news, but if too badly clogged will need a DPF clean, not cheap, and if only had it a few weeks best bet is to get supplying dealer to fix it as a fault developing at time of sale. Your problem is if you mainly do town driving and only occasional other journeys then the emissions system on a euro6d diesel will keep giving problems. A diesel doing a regen uses more fuel than a petrol. So really you have bought the wrong car, and should have got the petrol version. The diesel is not efficient on cold short journeys, diesels are best when warmed through, remember the WLTP fuel figures are tested at about +23c (and not during a regen). I wouldn't compare it to an older diesel without latest emissions equipment, they didn't have to spend some of their life (and lots of extra fuel) cleaning and burning particles at high temperatures. Diesels are now a liability if they are unable to fully regen because sensors limit things until they do to meet emissions requirements.

But speaking of Android Auto, the phone clock and outside temperature from google have disappeared from the toolbar

The outside temperature was -6, I was very cold, the trip was very short, on long trips it is set to 21 or even 20

Yes there is update to 1433 version available, will PM you a link in a few minutes.

Personally, I'd spec. a heated front screen and ACC if I was going to replace the Octavia - but I do presently go to work at O-dark hundred - until, that is, the cretins I work for p1** me off some more!

I thought of you George, when I was in Weymouth Tesco yesterday as Mr Corsa 1.7 CDTI grappled with his box of Carlsberg in a charging bay (which someone was waiting for): I dunno what was wrong with him, there were plenty of Blue Badge bays he could've abused instead, notwithstanding the car park was perhaps 1/3 full, and awash with free 'ordinary' bays. On the other hand, next to him was Mr I got the dirtiest Zoe and can't park straight, who had the right idea as he put his car on charge, got his new Brompton Sparticle out of the boot and went off for a ride: I do find supermarket car parks quite entertaining at times. Gaz

I have had a number of Thule racks and they are generally well engineered, not cheap though. I also had a mk2 fl estate, and I used their aero roof bars and pro ride racks with one handed control. Still use them on the mk7 golf estate. what you say about height risk is correct though. You have to have your wits about you at all times and you can get distracted. I usually use a post it note on the dash reminding me of height. But still the risk is always there if you drop the ball. the outway looks pretty well engineered. I would also be worried about other solutions that requires tensioning at the side glass overhang. There’s very little room in that closing gap for one. Secondly tensioning against the glass lip overhang could end in disappointment. Glass may be relatively strong to lean on or place a load on, spread out, but pulling at its edge, on a overhang, wouldn’t be what I’d want to do. On the outway, they seem to be more like £370 unless second hand. And is it the platform one your aiming for to lift bikes up high? If so; what I would also add is that they definitely protrude a way past the roof line. Probably half bike height or a little more, so you may still have some clearance risks…

There's a chance of manual being wrong, or someone has been and pulled one out and put back in the wrong hole, happens a lot. Did you take a picture of the existing layout? And can you take a picture of what's printed in your manual.

There is a review somewhere on the mighty web from some body like the Caravan club about towing with the Scala. Its worth finding and considering, basically they managed a caravan that was pretty much on the limit with a 1.1 litre engine.

Congratulations, have a nice ride! Probably you ve done the smartest thing possible.

Skoda need to learn that not being honest about delivery dates will lead to more potential customers following this path, it's not just a lost sale now it's reputation damage.

That is incredibly cheap, who carried out the work? Did they reuse the coolant? did they fit the correct electronic water pump?

So I’ve finally requested cancellation of my order today as the whole thing was becoming ridiculous - PHEV estate in race blue with tow bar, wireless charging, winter pack. I bought a Volvo V60, B4 MHEV estate with only 6500 miles instead. Happy days! 😁 I will probably never consider a Skoda again.

I recently saw a secondhand Octavia MK3 VRS for sale with 19" rims. The owner had changed from the standard 225/35R19 tyre size to massively over size 235/40R19 from the Superb MK3. No doubt, as a result of previous damage to the damage prone 225/35R19. He might not have realized that fitting 235/40 tyres to 7.5J rims is technically illegal as they officially need 8J rims, although the tyre fitter should have refused to fit them. ETRTO approved rim widths 225/35 7.5-8.0-9.0 235/40 8.0-8.5-9.5

From May 2011 build, this is fuse assignment for RHD. Fuse 35, a 5 Amp for interior monitor and Alarm horn. Take a picture before you pull! And please double check your manual for the car to verify.

There is an industry standard form to fill out that I can email you, but not until Monday. The process can take months for you to get an answer. Michelin have just started using their own method using a portal and photos. ( even harder than the form. ) It will be from impact damage. You only need to runover a stone that is 1-2 inches high just on the one sidewall edge for this damage to happen. So you don't feel a bad thump like when you go through a pothole. I see this regularly. As Toot said:- As quoted to me;- 'Aesthetic looking wheels / tyres are expensive.' Thanks. AG Falco

I learned to drive lorries with a manual box, splitter and a clutch that needed thighs like arnie to push down. Now everything is automatic and I'm just a steering wheel attendant. I like getting in my car at the end of my day and actually driving. Eventually I will be forced into automatic but whilst I still have a choice I'm stubbornly hanging on to my manual 😉 That's interesting. I've never worried about quoted mpg as I've always managed to exceed the quoted figures (except with the kia which was awful). But that figure is definitely a challenge to beat 😉

The OP has clearly asked not to fill the thread with random media from the internet. As such users just posting up videos consider this as a sign to stop. If you want to put a reply and contribute to the interaction on the thread, then by all means do. If you just want to spam threads with videos or links for no reason then don’t. This is the second time this has been dealt with and if there is a third then I will apply appropriate sanctions to the user/users in question.

I've finally jumped on the DCC Slider mod bandwagon. The new DCC maps give the car a much more composed ride. We didn't have to do the DCC recalibration as I had already done that a while ago. While there, I also got the 60 Sec Lane keeping tweak. Tis good not having to touch the steering wheel every 12 secs 🙂 The DCC slider mod requires the Gateway module to b updated and loaded with the appropriate maps, including updating the DCC module software update. The 60 Sec Lane requires a software update on the A5 (camera) module.

I release more dangerous gasses (quantity) They are fairly well sealed for life, and the days of boiling batterys is rare (not heard of anything recently)

Skoda dealership should be able to get the correct part for you.

I have a Blackvue dual camera hard wired for Parking mode. Can’t remember what 2 fuse points I used but I think they were empty and not used for any of my cars other components. Just remember to put the fuse piggyback in the right way so the power is going through the fuse and then out to the camera if that makes any sense. Fished the rear cable around the drivers side roof liner then through the rubber grommet and mounted camera on Estate window.

OK glad that worked out I used the Hella part. Attached are the photos of replacement - the scuttle panel is split in half and lifts up pretty easily without taking the wipers off (on RHD anyway). The electrical connector just needed a bit of a tug and I got there in the end removing the clip. Pics attached.

As long as your happy but Danny-B's suggestion would have been the cheaper option. If you're a cash buyer then forget all about PCP interest rates as they wouldn't apply to you. For future reference: 1. Purchase the car on Monday morning using PCP 2. On Tuesday morning log in to VWFS and request a settlement figure. Whatever you do, don't 'cancel' the policy, 'settle' it - there's a big difference. All you'll be charged is an administration fee ( about £20-£30 ), you'll pay no interest. But because you purchased via PCP you keep those PCP benefits. So you'd have had your extra year warranty, MOT and servicing all for no more than £30.

If I don’t learn something new every day, that is a day wasted.

Hey! Finally my upload meter did a reset and i can upload few new pics to this forum Follow my instagram: @vrsmk4 https://instagram.com/vrsmk4

We succesfully measured with dial gauge required shims for the LSD, and input and output shaft roller bearings. Today we will assembly whole gearbox to check if everything is fine and dismantle it again for housing new painting in same colour but with industrial paint which is more resistant and durable.