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Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I did, I totally misunderstood I thought it appeared to be missing on the scan tool read out rather than missing totally from the car. 😄 I almost suggested a photo of the battery. Apologies @Tambohamilton. This what happens when an assumption (EFB - start/stop) is make and not checked - made an ass out myself, again. 🙃 Back to what or who stealing the electric then. They're not dead (well the Jag one would be I guess, I was literally walking passed and had the multimeter with me but that's another ballsache VW story best left) other two batteries were just coincidence. One in sick bay now will recover to serve again, if wounded and weakened. The BMW never got near to fully charged but my neighbour was packing everything away, engine running, auto-headlights on and the stereo ready to drive into rush hour traffic. I told him the charge wasn't even equivalent to a Chinese meal and the car would soon want more.

If you don't have the monitor, you won't need to worry about adapting anything. You can change serial numbers forever and it won't affect charging. You mentioned 18hrs back it didn't have stop/start, I think @nta16 missed that. You will easily tell by looking at negative terminal, and you would also have a start/stop disable button next to gearstick.

You deal with a lot of dead batteries! The car doesn't have a battery monitor, I'm 99% sure. I'll check properly next time the bonnet is open. It certainly doesn't have start/stop. I'm guessing that's why my coding options for the battery are so limited; it literally doesn't need to know what the chemistry of the battery is, because it won't do anything differently.

That overstay issues has been happening at some charger locations. It is all a bit of a balls up... Even with a EV that only costs me £63 a week (that is going to £71) and with all the miles i have done at no cost i have now decided that it will be a PHEV that i am ordering in March as the EV will go back. I will get cheap local miles on electric and pay fuel on longer trip. Just now if i pay 35 pence a kWh for 40 kWh that is £14.00. 3 x 40 kWh is 120 Miles. so a bit less than the cost of a 60 mpg ICE. Electric and fuel prices will rise, but the electric charging network of public charging is going to be much higher. Even an efficient 4 mile per kWh is not worth it for me. Glad i tried it while it was still fun and much Cheapness. PS. I will research the most efficient ICE vehicles that might suit me comfort wise. The 2.0 TDI SCR DSG 115ps Golf i had on loan was comfortable and amazingly cheap on fuel, but the lack of buttons and the terrible touch screen was terrible. ........ Must try one of these Renault kidologys. Full Hybrid without a plug. Self Charge. ???? Years ago i rolled my new 1996 3 door Corsa 1.4 Auto when the gearbox oil was spraying all under the car, and the AA took me 80 miles to Edinburgh to get an auto courtesy car and i loved that Clio 1.6 Auto. Pity after i got home i was ill with concussion for days. Lucky it never happened while i was driving.

Stumbled upon this the other day. Not sure if it's already been posted.

Just had my first bit of news regarding build of the car - ordered end of November 2021- directly through VWFS UK on Business lease: "Your new Octavia Hatch SE L 1.4 TSI iV 204 PS DSG is currently allocated an unconfirmed build in the week commencing . Though this can still change depending on the factory schedule, based on that date we’d expect it to arrive at the dealership around ." Great to hear it might be built, but obviously no info on delivery date or if it'll get built then sit awaiting parts This was an SEL iV in Race blue, wireless charging, rear wiper, traffic assist and winter pack (heated seats, heated screen and heated wheel) I hope everyone gets some unexpected good news soon!

According to the parts catalogue for a 2004MY Octy mk1 HERE there are several body types for saloon, combi, 4x4 but I can't tell the differences from the diagram.

They should make Roman numeral spaghetti like they do Alphabetti Spaghetti, they would not need so many dies!

Hi all, First of all sorry for the lack of photos and light and clarity in them. It has been well documented about the Canton subwoofer upgrade and the disappointment it has had on most Octavia owners, as I’m no different I decided to do something about mine. As I have been an audio installer for over a decade I thought I’d share some information about my install and the Canton audio system on our Skoda's About the Canton System: The canton system is a 10 speaker stereo system powered by an 11 channel 570W amplifier (the subwoofer uses 2 channels), the factory subwoofer claims to be 200w with a frequency response of 50HZ to 120 HZ (that’s approximate and purely from listening, don’t quote me on that) it’s also a 6” woofer so my doubt is it can’t get close to 50HZ. The factory amp is located under the left seat (I’m Australian so it’s my passengers side) under the plastic cover When the factory audio system reaches ¾ volume it attenuates the bass to avoid overdriving the subwoofer causing damage. (Skoda don’t want to be replacing subwoofers under warranty), I believe on the later ones this has been removed as I have driven the newer Octavia’s and at low mileage the subwoofers all sounded blown (I believe this is because clients have turned the subwoofer level and the bass level to +9, and turned the Canton EQ to Rock, this leads to overdriving the subwoofer causing it to prematurely fail, (I’m not sure if this is covered under warranty). Remember it’s like any stereo system it needs a good 100 hours of wear in time. What did I want out of this? Like most Skoda owners I wanted more bass, it has also been well documented that “cabin Boom” is common in the Octavias too, at the same time I also wanted to reduce cabin road noise and make it quieter like its more expensive brother the Audi A4. Australian roads are not as good as the Europeans (this is why I went through a pair of continental tyres in less than 10,000 kms) and at $300 a tyre I decided to go for something harder wearing which of course has made the road noise so much worse due to the harder rubber. I also wanted to keep the car as factory as possible I didn’t spend a stack of cash on a car to then plonk a subwoofer next to a factory subwoofer, I also wanted a subwoofer upgrade that didn’t take up any boot space (I know we have the biggest boot in our class of car but I use almost every inch of it) What Equipment did I use? Skoda Octavia 3 Custom Subwoofer box (surprisingly these can be purchased off the shelf from www.basser.pl) http://sklep.basser.pl/en/fit-box-enclosure/501-skoda-octavia-3-fit-box-subwoofer-enclosure.html it cost me just under 600 Zlotty delivered to Australia (approx. $200.00 AUD) it took 5 days to get here too!. JL Audio A2150 2 Channel amplifier (150W RMS bridged), I know what you are thinking its 50W less than the original, I kept in mind that I have no intention to change the speakers and tweeters, I like the sound the speakers output and I love the soundstage the system provides, I didn’t want to come out of this having a subwoofer that was drowning out the mids and highs, it’s not what I’m about, I just wanted depth to the bass that the original woofer can’t provide. JL Audio 10 “ Subwoofer 10w0v3-4, perfectly matched to the amp as it wants 150W RMS and only requires 18 litres of space to work (the box is 15 litres but I used Dacron to give the subwoofer the illusion it is in a bigger box) JL audio Matching subwoofer grill Stinger Australia 8-gauge amp wiring kit Stinger Australia “Roadkill” Sound deadener (36 Square Feet) 0.5 Watt Resistors (you will need them see below) Close braided wrap (to make exposed cable look original) Audio control LC2i Line out converter, I used this one as I find it the best for high end audio upgrades it also accepts up to 400W RMS and has Accubass (this stops the bass rolling off at high volumes, which is why I’m doing the upgrade to begin with) it outputs 8 Volts through its pre-outs, signal sensing turn on (so you can still use the subwoofer with the car off and has a remote output (for the amp) (Amp and LC2i not pictured they were still on their way) Where to start: Skoda uses Torx Screws (my advice is investing in a set of small to large Torx bits), they will come in handy when working on the car I started with the sound deadening, this involved stripping out pretty much everything from the rear seats back, stripping out the car isn’t as difficult as some think (remember I’ve done this for a long time so I know what I’m doing), my advice is to be careful when pulling things apart things will only come off one way, also take note as to what order things come apart so you know what order they will go back on, check the back of each panel removed to ensure that clips aren’t broken or damaged making it harder to put back on later. To sound deaden the rear end properly I removed the whole back seat, the bottom is fairly easy as it unclips and with a bit of jiggling it comes out, the top looks harder than it is. Between the 40/60 split is a plastic trim cover, this unclips and under it is a Torx screw which holds a metal clasp on, removing this will allow easy removal if the back seats, to totally remove the 60 split you will need to unbolt the centre belt from the floor pan. (re-fitment is done in reverse, that plastic cover is a pain to get back on) Removing the back seat gives easy access to being able to remove the boot lining for sound deadening, you will also need to remove the cream c pillar covers and the suspension tower covers (that hold the parcel tray in) there’s a clip that is extremely stiff a lot force was needed to get it off (there is also a Torx screw in there too), once the left side liner is off you will find the 2 bolts holding the factory canton subwoofer enclosure in, unplug the speaker terminals from the subwoofer. The boot lights and power socket will need to be unplugged as well, they are fairly straight forward. I used pretty much all 9 sheets of sound deadening for the boot, I didn’t go overboard with it as I don’t think it’s needed, I also didn’t want to kill my cars fuel economy. I also did the boot lid. I put my amplifier under the right side of the front seat (Drivers side), I chose my amp because the dimensions fitted the space underneath the seat. Wiring in the Amplifier, I Started by disconnecting the battery (I usually don’t however the grommet through the firewall is behind the battery next to the ABS module), its easily accessible when the battery is removed. Under the main loom is a blank grommet I put my power cable through, it could easily take a 4 gauge however my amp only needed 8 gauge. I covered my power cable in the closed braided wrap so it looked factory. I Fitted my amp fuse in the factory engine bay fuse box, this added to the factory finish, it was a little bit of a faff but it looks better then it bolted to the outside Wiring the LC2i: I Put my LC2i in the left rear quarter panel (above the suspension tower), this makes perfect sense as here I can utilize the original subwoofer leads, and the LC2i needs constant power which I got from the power socket wiring. ( I didn’t refit the light or the power socket as I don’t have a need for them, the shopping hook also got culled too) From the Canton subwoofer you will have 4 wires White/ Red + White/Brown - Grey/Red + Grey/Brown - From experience and working on German cars Brown is usually ground. NOTE: over each speaker – and + you will need to put a 0.5W resistor the reason is, when the canton subwoofer is plugged in the amplifier sees a load, when the subwoofer is unplugged the amp doesn’t see any load and shuts down the subwoofer channel putting the resistors on the leads creates a dummy load so the subwoofer channels are still active (and you can use the subwoofer level control in the head unit. From here All I then need to do I run my remote cable, RCA’s and subwoofer wire to the amp. Fitting the subwoofer: This doesn’t take a degree to do but a little common sense, Once the boot lining was in I offered up the subwoofer box and screwed it in to the floor (be careful as the muffler mount is under there and I missed mine by a bee’s ****), after that’s bolted in the subwoofer can be fitted to the box, again be careful as the last thing you want to do is put a hole in the cone) Connecting the Amplifier: Connecting the amplifier is as normal, I Close braided all of my wiring to complete my factory look, To mount my amp and run my cable to under the seat, I unbolted my driver’s seat, be careful of the original wiring (as airbag wiring is in there), removing the kick trims isn’t rocket science however I managed to tuck the wiring in without lifting them (I have it down to a science), I screwed my amp into the carpet but not through the steel floor (I didn’t want to hit something under the chassis and cause damage like brake lines) The Home stretch: Once everything is connected its time to turn on and test There are specific videos on You Tube showing you how to tune the LC2i (including the Accubass feature) From my experience I found it best to Lower the bass to -3 Turn the subwoofer level to +5 ( I don’t go any higher myself) (both of these settings are in the head unit) Keep the gain on the LC2i high and lower the gain on the amp I don’t use any bass boost settings on the amp as it only ever boosts 1 frequency I have my crossover level at 100HZ (but each to their own. Use good judgement, with your own equipment. And what sounds good to you. Re-fit your interior and enjoy the better bass. Any questions im happy to answer.

Hello All, After having a discussion regarding LED replacement in the instrument cluster, (search: Rev/Speedo Dial Illumination), I have written up a guide on LED replacement. I hope someone finds it useful. Tomasz Instrument Cluster LED Replacment v1-1.pdf

Overall really happy with my purchase – especially as it was done virtually (albeit with a lot of desk research) – this was because I can’t leave home for very long as caring for my wife but needed a ULEZ compliant car. Thanks to toot for advice about what to check /change etc – as the service history was a little “variable” although only 26k miles. All now fine and dandy on that front. My observations below are, of course, somewhat amateur and highly subjective. For what it’s worth….. Engine Perfectly adequate with very acceptable performance, albeit sounds fairly average. As I have been lucky enough to own some cars with really great engines it’s not fair to compare. DSG 7 speed gearbox Clever and really helps performance having the 7 gears. It may be my imagination but it seems to have got smoother in the time I’ve had it. Its only at low speed that occasionally it seems to get “confused” for a second or two. I’m also adapting to the fact it’s DSG not a torque converter auto. Ride and handling The handling is fine – after all I’m not taking it on a race track. I swapped the 16s for 15s and changed the tyres. By modern car standards (where the suspension seems to be made from concrete) the ride is pretty good – although the ride on my 30 year old Toyota is better (but not the handling)! Despite the generally good ride, if you go over a bigger bump or ridge there is more of “thump” – I am not sure whether that it’s the sound or feel I notice more – but not a big deal. Other stuff Brakes are fine. Steering is a little light for my particular taste but that just might be what I’ve been used to in the past. Love the giant boot. The plastics are better than I was expecting (although not as soft touch as others). Nothing rattles or squeaks at all – result! The seats are really comfortable – as good as any I’ve tried. Some of the positioning of the controls doesn’t seem that intuitive to me but I reckon that’s just getting used to it – I still seem to spend longer than I would like searching for buttons. The handbook leaves something to be desired as if non-one ever tried it out on an innocent party before printing! I have the Elegance spec and actually like the look of the car – particularly the front – I guess I’m a bit traditional though.

If you’ve got a DSG it’ll use engine braking or DSG holds the revs (not 100% sure) but when you put the car into eco it does a lot of coasting, so when you apply the brakes you need to hold down for longer, which then clears the crap off the rear a lot better. I make it a habit to engage eco at least once a month just to clear the brakes up. so basically with eco on, you’ll be coasting more and able to apply the brakes for longer

Oil pipes for your turbo unless mistaken. If not coolant... Ignore top picture.

Personally i think you are wrong to accept such a new car behaving like that. Really it should be into an Authorised Repairer / Main Dealers and issues addressed. It need not run badly on start up. The brakes need a bit of servicing, or those pads replaced if there is a TPI covering them.

ahhhh tailgate pressing then no worries can do what i need to with it on thanks guys

I haven't cleared the code, i will though, but i doubt if it will make any difference, as the car is definitely not performing as it should I changed the air filter when i did the oil change. Haven't checked sparks yet, will do that this afternoon. Thanks

If it's got a factory fitted spoiler like the standard vRS ones then yes you can remove them, but it'll take some doing if you don't want to cause any damage. If it's the same tailgate as Ryans above then no what you're looking at is part of the tailgate pressing.

As is shown in the video, (it is a very long one for those wishing to embark on watching it), with the typical slower charging rates, I wonder if you would fall foul of the usual mandatory 2 hours maximum parking stay allowed at most service stations.

This is an interesting experiment. Nothing new in what they are doing, but they are taking the 4 'longest range' cars and driving them until they expire. Typically, the first stop they make, they couldn't charge at, even if they wanted to.

Good luck in your new job, I prefer the Varta as it seems to be doing a good job for many people before they tap out. I put a Varta E39 onto mine after 7 years, and it was not fully dead.

Thanks @varooom your a life saver, I start a new job in March which will require quite a few miles so I didnt want to worry about the battery. Now for the next on my list, what do you know about all season tyres 🤣 joking. Thanks again

No need to disconnect the battery IMHO

Looking at the button at the bottom right - does this mean you can change the view into split screen? I personally like it that way, as I can select music/podcasts, while still having the navigation on....

I have access to a Skoda Tech ......when he's not at his day job......by night, he's a Skoda SuperHero!!

Looks like there's a brown one in there

Different pipe ODs. vRS is 55mm, other diesel engines (and 2.0 petrol) 50mm; other petrol engines are either 45mm or 38mm. Adaptor pieces could be used instead of the usual parallel dual-sleeve connections though, to adapt diameters.

When refreshing / upgrading the suspension it might be simply clever to drop the rims size from 17" to 16" and get tyres on with more sidewall. Rather than the previous idea of less sidewall. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/509273-is-it-possible-to-upgrade-the-wheel-bigger-size

Green 30 amp. See below. Top row marked 30. 🙂 Thanks. AG Falco

@Danoidcould you explain what you mean about ECO bringing the rears to life? Do you mean it will have the rear brakes applying going down hill?

See if the oil on the tip of the dipstick smells of petrol. Pressure is generally measured by removing the pressure switch and screwing the test device in there instead. Not sure on pressure criteria, but should be checked with oil at full operating temperature (80+C). See what numbers are at idle and at 2k rpm. Should be able to find specs tomorrow. Could just be a failing pressure switch, look for oil oozing out of/through it. Engine performance problem may be unrelated.

A few days after getting the DCC Slider mod done, i was wondering why the Steering felt "different", e.g. in Normal mode, the steering weight was slightly heavier/firmer. In Comfort mode, it felt less disconnected and more like Normal. Thanks to @varooom sharing a link about the technical workings of the DCC system - it shows the power steering module is part of this system too, as it interacts with the DCC module. Hence it seems the new DCC parameters/algorithm better mapping has also improved the steering weight/feel. An added bonus I wasn't expecting with this mod.

Can we know where? I have family in Kent so worth my time getting a good deal and staying over.

If you want a different opinion to the very knowledgeable man above I'll give my thoughts. The springs are not likely to be affected even at that age unless there is damage. The shocks could well need replacing and a fresh set of originals would do you fine. If you want something with a bit more support that won't blow through the travel then I can recommend bilstein b6. Standard ride height but firmer and much better damping. I would also put your money into the bushes while it's coming apart. Sounds like you have given it a bit of hard time so some fresh joints would give it some new life. Don't have to be expensive. I wouldn't go for poly or the like. New originals should be fine and make the car feel tight again.

My Octavia is a 2017 1.5 petrol came up for the cambelt change in december 2022 70k miles and 5 years , was charged £730 in total ,at a Main Skoda Dealer in Kent and job took about 5 hours , your being quoted over the top

Here should be all the engine bay and internal (SC) fuse assignments, as there are differences in 2015, you have lots of pages to read. SC44 = 15Amp Pages from S0068110020-Basic_equipment__From_August_2014.pdf

This weather with all the mess on the roads its tempting not to clean 'as it will get dirty again' but sorry, I don't like driving dirty so after a weekend wash.

Hi, Back on the forum with my recently purchased Yeti (my third Yeti). Had a Karoq, never herbed the alloys like I did in this one! Most recent was a Kia Soul EV, public charging was a nightmare to say the least so back to the car I most liked, a Yeti!

Hi UrbanPanzer. Good advice. Given that the alternatives involved increasing 'worlds of pain', we checked and cleaned the connections to the control unit as suggested by Murdockman (no difference - but we were surprised by how little protection the circuits in the control unit are afforded), and then removed the bumper once again and checked and cleaned the connections to the sensors. Bingo! The parking aid system is now functioning as it should be. I now just need to remember how everything goes back together! Many thanks to you and Murdockman for taking the time to respond and for the advice offered. Much appreciated. 🙂

Dangerous?? How? At the very most it gives you a gently nudge/vibration so I fail to see how it’s dangerous? Its a minor inconvenience at worst, and unless you have the strength of a 3 year old I really fail to see how it’s dangerous. Somebody, please enlighten me.

So I’ve finally requested cancellation of my order today as the whole thing was becoming ridiculous - PHEV estate in race blue with tow bar, wireless charging, winter pack. I bought a Volvo V60, B4 MHEV estate with only 6500 miles instead. Happy days! 😁 I will probably never consider a Skoda again.

Heated rear window Full service history Something wash wipe? One loving owner Full main dealer service history Power assisted steering Electric wondows front and rear 5 speed box Taxed and tested Very good condition ****ed up beyond repair God I'm showing my age

VCDS = VAG-COM Diagnostic System (Ironically, it's made of even more) VAG = Volkswagen Audi Group COM = Communication Port OBD = Onboard Diagnostic (not sure why they added eleven) Should be about right give or take.

@rumburake Good news. Just fingers crossed. It saves you money. I would avoid that place for getting work done or no work.... If the car is not a keeper or you have a warranty & the timing belt is covered & you have what you were told in writing. They are right. The Timing Belt is for life. When it fails it will be the end of it's life. Maybe they can say how long the life of the tensioner and bearing might be. They are correct on the DQ200 DSG. Which is good at least. Just as long as they do not tell the same to those with a DQ381. Some are told it is a dry clutch DSG. Those with a Kodiaq 1.5 TSI or a AWD car wit that engine will have a DQ381..

no, it's hardware limitation 😞 but all three of present colors can be customized -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/368574-vcds-options-on-superb-iii/?do=findComment&comment=5478337 -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/428238-ambient-lighting/

As said What a load of bull#### it won't get better in time. They can change the actuators they bolt on. Sounds like that's the problem hesitation vibration faulty one or more should be done on warranty take it back your not happy with the outcome

The mytyres database isn't out of date. It doesn't show a 7Jx16 ET45 5/112 57.1 steel rim for the Karoq because no one makes that specification. The only steel rim that is made for the Karoq is the 6Jx16 ET43 5/112 57.1 steel rim. There are other steel rims that could be considered for use, but there's not much available above 16". Like you say, the 6.5Jx17 ET38 steel rim from the Kodiaq could be considered. Before purchasing a spare wheel (which is the expensive part), I suggest you purchase the foam kit for the Karoq 2WD which includes the jack, ie. OEM part number 57A093860. This should be available to order from a VAG/Skoda dealers's parts department for about £50 or a little less. Once you get the foam, you will need to work out how much room there is for a spare wheel. The OP found that the carpet was lifted slightly with his solution. From one of the photos, it looks like he used a 215/55R17 fitted to a 7Jx17 ET45 alloy rim. You may want to avoid this outcome by using a slightly narrower spare tyre than 215/55R17 fitted to a 7J rim, such as a 215/60R16 fitted to a 6Jx16 ET43 steel rim (or alloy). You might find that the outside diameters of the Karoq 2WD tyres (such as 215/60R16, 215/55R17) are too big to fit inside the foam. In one of the official Skoda photos for this kit, it shows a spare saver fitted inside the foam not a full-size wheel. The space saver tyre shown is 125/70R18 and this size has an outside diameter about 5% smaller than a full size Karoq 2WD tyre. If you can't fit a Karoq 2WD tyre inside the Karoq 2WD foam kit with OEM part number 57A093860 you might then need to purchase the Karoq 4WD foam kit with OEM part number 57A093860A which is about twice the price, ie. about £100. Maybe ask the dealer if a Karoq 2WD tyre will fit inside the Karoq 2WD foam spare wheel kit? although I doubt he would know.

Octavia Style 1.0 TSI, Black magic, sportchassi, 17” wheels

Here's a picture of mine. Needs a wash already.

Sorry, I don't know,i don't have MIB 2 STD, try to ask here. There are also some Information hope it helps.