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Now i the right scenario for Scout :))

Just for reference here is the EA888 Gen 4 motor and cover. As you can see the oil filler is further forward on the left side of the engine compared to the Gen 3. This is the engine cover that has caused all the problems. It's a floppy, spongey material that never anchored properly to the engine mounting studs and also melts near the turbo (!) - basically it's cheap and nasty and further evidence of VW Group cost cutting. And nowhere near as nice as the updated Gen 3 rigid cover on MY20+ vehicles with that engine. It doesn't appear there's an imminent fix to the Gen 4 cover and so all VW Group vehicles with that engine are going out without any cover and it looks a mess.

You have a Micro Hybrid car. For more details look here:- https://www.yuasa.co.uk/info/technical/micro-hybrid-hybrid-vehicles-explained/ Especially these sections. Micro Hybrid 2, Regenerative braking & Battery care and Charging. Thank, AG Falco

The other sure fire way of checking is: Look down the back of the engine bay between engine and battery for the oil filter housing on the top of the gearbox. No oil filter housing = DQ200 Oil filter housing black and pointing upwards = DQ250 Oil filter housing black or heat shield on it and pointing towards the cabin = DQ380/381

Fully agree. What a bad piece of design by VW. They should have made it easy to replace the filter element by simply removing a few screws from the top of the filter housing. Maybe VW have some sort of cruel thing for making people scrape their knuckles unnecessarily. Or maybe they thought that people would break those plastic clips on the top of the housing and would have to buy a new one, no doubt at a huge cost.

I'm technically the third owner of my car as it was a failed lease contract. I've owned it since it had twenty four miles on the clock. The two previous owners were VW & VWFS. When I took it in for its first service, I was pleasantly surprised that the car came into my possession with a three service plan, already paid for, that I'd had nothing to do with 👍 Gaz

Moon is currently 96% full (Waxing Gibbous) and a lovely pink sky this evening 👍 I'm still yet to catch sight of the green comet, although it seems one lucky individual in Nottinghamshire managed it 🔭☄️ https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/av/uk-england-nottinghamshire-64499694

Colourful Sky this evening and Clumber Park looking resplendent in the afternoon sun..............

Evening all, Im back in a VRS after buying my third Mk3 Octavia VRS after a bit of time away from one. I originally wanted a 245 DSG in meteor grey but came across this immaculate 2019 moon white one with only 7,000 miles on the clock, and it was too good to miss out on! All I’ve done so far is add some stripes to the grill, but I’ll probably do a couple more subtle little changes…..and maybe something to get the exhaust sounding a bit better.

There is a member on here called @Tech1e who is an ex-Skoda tech & is an expert on cruise control malarkey.

Tried to update but it wouldn't do it and I had to come out of the menu. It did tell me that I'm on 1803 though....

+ 1 by ''bitter experience" as we say here.

It works.Thank you.

I did mine before fitting, it was more convenient. But, the ideal way is on the car, with positive direct to battery terminal, and negative has to go to the designated spot on the car body (mine was just above the neg terminal, user manual, or take a pic) Inside the home, it took over 12hrs, so that's why I chose that over doing it on the car. Most top ups afterwards are about 3-5hrs roughly on car. I do this once per month roughly to keep it in good shape. 11.7V = 0% SOC (State of charge) Every 0.1V added to the 11.7 =+10% SOC 12.7V = 100% SOC I leave my car for a whole week before it get's a run, and it sits at 12.3V, so it's 60% which drops from a roughly normal 80% SOC (12.5V)

The spark plugs are pre-gapped so as long as the correct plugs that is not an issue, and you check they are all correct then not knock them when fitting. It is good to see or be told what the plugs that came out were like, and measure the gap they had. A failing plug can cause an ignition coil to fail prematurely. Not all e5 Super Unleaded is equal, but they will meet the Minimum Octane and have detergents. Once an engine starts to get a bit of a clean out it can have a bit of a while until carbon or crap is moving. Getting the engine oil up to heat and the plugs and a run is not a waste of fuel to see how things are. Maybe old pre winter grade E10 (more hygroscopic) petrol in the tank was all that was wrong. And a bit of oiled / carboned up plugs.

I replaced mine too. Also if you used any new coolant hoses and new clamps for those hoses, please remember to check them for leakages for several weeks. It takes some time for them to get used to each other.

Yes, I went from the 027 to the 096. Leads - OK Tray length - OK Clamp position - OK Insulating jacket - Alexis Sale 😆 Just for Varoom!

Hi, The garage put Skoda vag plugs in don’t know if they actually gapped them, filled with supreme unleaded haven’t done enough miles to see any difference yet but still stumbling low down but pulls like a train with no misfire going to 70mph and stays there no problem

Which part of that specifically prohibits it? Because saying if you change/mess with something it is excluded from the warranty is common practice and completely fair. But you are saying it voids your entire warranty? Which i cant see anywhere.

Sunrise at Sunderland earlier this week:

That's an interesting point, maybe you could sync with changing the spark plugs. AFAIK It does not sync officially. No other service reason to remove it.

Good point. Initially I thought I would carry on with another Octavia, but the prices for second hand cars on the dealer forecourt are IMHO too high. I run my own limited company and can offset an 100% of an electric car against corporation tax. We tried the Enyaq and it was lovely, but the Tesla with its new price drop was just so different and nice. I will miss the current car (he is called Norman by the kids) as it’s never missed a beat, and the Audi A3 seats are a factory look and for me much more comfortable.

How hard for them if those 2 screws are needed would it be to put them on the top cover? Are they thinking that to do a service it has to come out of the way anyhow?

I was meaning on Superb Mk2 / Mk3. But you may still be right ;). This document doesn't states on which car it applies.

Considering you were initially looking at another Octavia, the Model X is the last vehicle I thought you would end up choosing When you have had some time with it please post your opinion in the Briskoda review section, I'd love to read it.

Is the Service Plan able to travel with the Vehicle when you sell it ?. Or does it just become obsolete. If it can travel it could be a good selling point or make the vehicle worth more.

Cake and eat it................................. I should be refunded for all the years of motor insurance that I didn't make a claim on. Ed should look on the very positive side and be thankfull that he did not pay up front.

Just 2 removal key at the bottomand then simply push it out, at the top there are smply some kind of snaps. Display and touch panel are two separate parts, just connected one over another, that's why touch works OK - IMHO display is faulty. If your unit is in warranty pls claim it with Skoda otherwise just buy the same unit and jest replace the front panel.

Those Traffic Police Officer Drivers that do not indicate might be doing as trained, the local to me Police drivers in town are just poor drivers. Maybe the Officers out changing lanes might like the little 'tug' they get or maybe they will have the Lane Keep Assist disabled on their Police cars including EV's now. Police Motorcyclists are pretty much the same when lane changing, nobodies business what they do. They are clearly marked and you should be paying attention and expect the unexpected from them.

Well i stopped charging on the Rapid because after 5 months of it not being on the CPS app or taking money they have activated it. It was good while it lasted. So off to Tesco to get 6 kWh for no money while buying munchies then i will see how things are.

Incidentally I didn't mean to imply you were a bad driver. Every one is capable of improvement though. Even the Chief Instructor when I was teaching blue light driving made the occasional mistake, and his driving was exemplary.

Were the new drop links the answer to the suspension issues?

I think it's logical that if the EGR isn't present and working then a greater amount of soot is going to pass into the DPF. This is the explanation which I've always considered to be logical.... Diesel high pressure EGR valves divert the high-flow, high-soot exhaust gas before it enters the diesel particulate filter – the soot can combine with the oil vapor to create sludge. The gas is then passed back to the inlet manifold either via a pipe or internal drillings in the cylinder head. A secondary valve is also used to help create a vacuum in the inlet manifold as this is not naturally present on diesel engines. https://www.delphiautoparts.com/gbr/en/resource-center/basics-egrs-what-they-do-how-they-work-how-troubleshoot

Either that or carry a few of these in the boot....... (With some foldable solar panels). I having issue with getting a proper/good earth but potentially it could give EV drivers some option. Our EV super hero Byorn Nyland has had some fun, as has the guy from carwow, running the cars to absolutely zero battery, oft some 20 miles beyond shown zero, then he has 4 kw of ECOFLOW batteries plus panels and then thinking about calling out the AA/RAC etc. I think motoring organisation support/rescue vehicles should take up the mantle plus gas station get a move on ripping out fuel pumps and installing EV chargers as they are in a dying business if they do not, a few garages have but much more need to follow, sell lecky at 50p+VAT per kWh and coffee etc.

You probably haven't undertaken any form of advanced driver training. There shouldn't be a driver you haven't seen. In the case you mention a shoulder check before you change lanes would confirm whether it's clear to move across or not.

Through winter I just leave the main lamp switch in the ON position in our Kodiaq & Polo. Unlike some cars, the lamps turn off when you switch off, so no chance of running down the battery. Love it.

Got any proof of this - or just something said to scare people?

Although you may have all got yours fixed now (hopefully) here is the answer for anyone else that finds this thread.

As it only happens approximately every new car cycle I easily forget! However check out the VCDS section in Superb 3 where you should find the details.

painted roof, mirror covers, rear skirt to black and number plate holders to white on my brand new L&K 280ps step by step to design which were presented at the Geneva Motor Show, but weren't adopted on production line 😞 previous also were Style at beginning

Ah right, with you now. Originally there would have been a stud with an open thread the same as a self tapping screw sticking out from the bottom of the car that a plastic nut would go on to secure the tray. However, the cars don't actually need the extra undertrays, many don't even come with them from the factory. If you still feel you'd rather have it on though, a self tapper with a big washer will do the job, just watch for possible wiring harnesses etc inside the car if you use long screws. Hope that helps!

I have never understood the fascination with having to have the latest registration. When I am ever looking at used cars, it is always the 'date registered' I look at rather than the actual registration itself. Having waited so long, I would just want the car asap.

The week before Christmas in North East Fife. Taken from the passenger seat of my wife's Karoq.

Changes made: ST XA Coilovers fitted, lowered to remove that arch gap but not slammed to a stupid height. Ride comfort has remained superb which I’m really pleased about. Only other changes are my Motec wheels which I think has really improved the look over a standard car and a front badge change courtesy of SuperSkoda.

Hope you got the airbag sorted. For anyone reading, disconnect the negative terminal of your battery before removing the seats. And put the seats back / reconnect all wires etc before reconnecting the battery. This will save you from having to reset the airbag light. Also some airbag systems have capacitors which take a while to discharge, so I would disconnect the battery about 30min before removing the seats just to be sure. You can clean the dash / the boot etc in this time flif you're removing the seats for cleaning purposes.

Just had my first bit of news regarding build of the car - ordered end of November 2021- directly through VWFS UK on Business lease: "Your new Octavia Hatch SE L 1.4 TSI iV 204 PS DSG is currently allocated an unconfirmed build in the week commencing . Though this can still change depending on the factory schedule, based on that date we’d expect it to arrive at the dealership around ." Great to hear it might be built, but obviously no info on delivery date or if it'll get built then sit awaiting parts This was an SEL iV in Race blue, wireless charging, rear wiper, traffic assist and winter pack (heated seats, heated screen and heated wheel) I hope everyone gets some unexpected good news soon!

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. You seem to dislike the VW computer programs even more than me, that's going some. I'm not a VW fan or believed in German engineer quality on cars being that great this century. My stock answer to just about anything on the car is to keep the battery in a good state of charge because if it gets too low even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough you can still get lots of unexpected issues. Some issues with warning lights and messages but some issues perhaps before these warnings. This because the VW computers and their programs don't like low battery charge. You are not just dealing with HAL900 but a group of them. Skoda, SEAT, VW, Audi, are all VW/VAG with lots of the same sort of stuff and parts so lots of similarities to them so the garage should have some idea of what they're doing. Normally it's the driver that lets the battery get in a state of low charge with use, abuse, neglect and mistake(s) - but it can be the car's charging system or eclectics or computer programs perhaps. Hopefully now you see that is a mistake. This will probably be part of your "battery" problem. Yeap the computer program parameter is too wide so don't rely on it and carry on looking after the car. Part of looking after the car is to read and refer to the Owner's Manual, if you do so you will know more about your car than many long term owners - and sorry to say - but - I am going to anyway prevented many of the issues you've had, you probably know RtFM. Get an appropriate battery charger and FULLY recharge the battery ASAP as this could end a lot of your issues - until you let the battery run down too low again which you wont of course now you know. 😉 Charge the battery FULLY an appropriate battery charger, check the Tudor EFB TL600 has been 'coded' in as a new battery to the car's computer program correctly. And RtFM. 😊 - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Just in case you could check for any Recalls as it not all your fault (that 'P' position thing wouldn't be you). -https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-actions (Edited as I put same link twice, now corrected) Let us know how you get on.

Was this new battery coded when it was fitted? Have you smart charged the battery? On the way to work in the morning after 10 miles I can stop at a set of traffic lights, the stop start normally works. On my way home in the evening after 12 miles my stop start almost never works. 😕 There are many things that can affect as to whether the stop start will work. If I have the AC on and turn the fan speed up to 3 the engine will re start if it had stopped. The TPMS does NOT measure your tyre pressure. Read this post:- Can be turned off. Yes. Once the car has been started it is rare to have the battery fail. Was the alternator tested at the time? Low Voltage? Suffer from low voltage battery. Go to another one. Looks like the correct battery to me. Is the boot light on when this warning comes on? You need to look in the boot without opening any door or the boot. I would get a Smart Battery charger and charge the battery first. 🙂 HTH Thanks. AG Falco

Sounds like your working well through it Remember, if its "easier" than re-connecting the actual wires back together at the break, you could add small sections or even long sections of wire into the loom to help with space etc when connecting them back up.

Different resistance is being noted. I don't think that you can ( easily ) change the DRL LED's. I presume you have the 4 X H7 bulbs with dipped projector headlight units? You can Turn the DRL's via the infotainment menu via:- Car. Settings. Note that these are also your parking/side light bulbs, they just work at a lower power output. Thanks, AG Falco