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Real progress Once back together, it was treated to a liberal coating of stonechip

Now i the right scenario for Scout :))

Seen first on clubgti.com, seemed too handy not to propagate further: https://www.yumpu.com/en/document/read/38656239/audi-vw-renoks/5 Could be handy if you break one, and want to replace, but can't see a part number on it.

Yes, it could go to te fusebox, but I found it easier just to splice it into the appropriate wire at the brake switch connector. The other wire can go direct to the correct engine ECU pin, but won't be long enough as supplied, cos it'll only be intended to reach to the inside bulkhead connector. Nothing to stop you extending it though.

Mine did the opposite and locked the whole car with the engine still running after I got out to get something out of the boot. Had to smash a window as I was away from home. Also, one morning I went to the car and the passenger front window had fully opened itself. I swear these bloody cars are possessed. You can indeed get wires that are broken inside the plastic insulation. The locks are a pain in the arse to get to, whoever designed the door panels wants shooting. Not much fun.....

Had it a few weeks now and it desperately needed a wash. Fitted my winter wheels and tyres. Also stuck some mud flaps on.

No problem received_749401699976182.mp4

Mine are a bit contrary to the battery charging obsessive fetishist evangelists, I dont think any vehicle with a minimum of a 90 amp alternator probably a lot more will have any problem recharging the small extra capacity of an 096 battery, once fully charged it is not going to need any more recharging after a start than an 027 battery, the starter motor will not have drawn any more current, the difference in the overnight self discharge will be de minimis. And on that subject the starter motor will be a 1.7kw geared starter lets say 2 kw, these engines start in less than a second of cranking but lets say 3 seconds, that equates to 166 amps at peak, at lot less having got the engine rotating, this equals 0.14 AH. Throw in the glowplug preheating say 5 seconds and the heating while cranking 3 seconds, post start heating will be covered by the alternator, lets say 40 amps for 8 seconds = 0.09 AH So a total starting discharge of 0.23 AH which we will round up to 0.25 AH Lets say you drive off using heated rear screen, heated seats and anything else you can think of, lets say that half of the alternators output is used to cope with the running load, it wont be anywhere near that but I am being very conservative with all these figures, lets say that there is only 45 amps remaining output from the alternator. You would need to run the engine above tickover speed to get the full alternator output ie driving but recharging will have commenced as soon as the engine starts even at tickover but I will also ignore that, you need to replace 0.25 AH from the spare alternator capacity of 45 amps = 45 AH. You would need to be driving for 20 seconds to recharge the battery from a normal cold start. Lets say that you crank the engine for 2 minutes which is a very long time but maybe you have air in the fuel system, even using the above very exaggerated current figures you would only need to drive 13 minutes. I'm afraid the "your battery will discharge on short journeys" has been an old wives tale since the introduction of alternators as standard fitment some 50 years ago over the preceedin dynamos that did not give enough output to cover a full electrical load with the then new heated rear screens and which did not charge at idle speed. I would appreciate it if someone else can cast an eye over my figures and tell me if I have made a mistake 👍

If you do try a HID conversion many on here have used the kits from a seller called London Colour on eBay with good results and success, including myself, and his kit was far better quality and longevity than another I tried.

@ZacDaMan72 That is clear as in you recommend at 60,000 km, and i recommend before 80,000 miles by maybe the owners circumstances and if a keeper. (eg do not pay for a DSG oil change because you have to do a 40,000 mile service or a 60,000 mile service before the end of a lease, leave the Dealerships / traders to do that before flogging the car again, which is unlikely. If buying a used one with a DQ381 then maybe get that DSG service done & have a Warranty in place. Buy one if you are not getting one with the car.) I read your post as it might be VW Group having a 60,000 km recommendation, guidelines or schedule. That will be coming i expect. Dependent on failures within 120,000 km.

Regardless of what VW is saying, I would still recommend a 60,000km interval as a preventative measure. My Golf R has the DQ381 and there is no way in hell I'm letting it tick over 60,000km between DSG services given how it's driven.

I have come to the conclusion that I must be weird….. or just don’t let small things get to me. The beeping when opening the drivers door is a reminder that your engine is still running, and I see it as such. On the extremely rare occasion I do this it doesn’t come close to annoying me. Lane assist is two presses of a button, no big deal and even if I forget and lane assist kicks in it’s just a gentle nudge, again no big deal. Smaller wheels would make the Kamiq (especially the MC) look ridiculous. More to the point, my MC rides and handles superbly, with little road noise. IF I had to nominate a gripe it would be the temperamental sat nav, but DEFINITELY none of the above. Maybe it’s just me……not being bothered about aspects of the car that are meant to behave the way certain people complain about. The occasional sat nav glitches are slightly frustrating because it behaves in a way that it wasn’t designed to behave…….THAT is a bona fide gripe IMO. Anyway, I’ll get my coat.

Sunrise at Sunderland earlier this week:

As both myself and Lady Munch have birthdays in May we got to discussing holidays and where we would like to be for our respective birth dates. She has always wanted to see Venice and I just adore Croatia and just so happen to have a friend who is the head of tourism is Split. Mrs has never been to Croatia so we started looking at how we could cover both dates, 3rd and 19th in two different countries. Sure we could fly in to either but that left 16 days between dates... What to do within those dates? Sittin on a beach is just purgatory for both of us.. Rather be out exploring the locality. Pompeii? yeah... ! Florence...? Yeah! Venice... Fk Yeah! Then she quipped that she has always wanted to see Lake Bled. I was quite happy with Split, Plitvice lakes, and yes, Slovenia. I must add at this point I have done all the aforementioned but this was some 30 years ago on a 3 month tour of Europe on 2 wheels! Looking at car hire costs it quickly became obvious that it was not going to be cheap to cover the destinations we listed with flights, hotels and car hire so I said... Beggar that (something like that) I'll drive it! One last tour whilst I still can and we take a month out of life and go see... What can go wrong??? Here we are, all planned and we simply cannot wait for the 27th April to begin our tour. Leeds-Hull Hull-Rotterdam Rotterdam-Luxembourg- overnight Luxembourg-Nuremburg (Joe Bonamassa Concert) - overnight Nuremburg-Liechtenstein- overnight Liechtenstein- Venice via the San Bernardino Pass Venice 3 nights Venice-Florence 2 nights Florence- outside Naples in the mountains 3 nights Naples-Tavullia (VR46) overnight Tavullia-Ancona for the night sail to Split. Split... 8 days of beer, sunshine and zero driving! Trips to Hvar, Brak, some deep sea fishing etc and my BD. Split-Plitvice lakes-overnight. Plitvice-Lake bled-2 nights Lake Bled- Vienna-overnight Vienna-Prague-overnight Prague-Dresden-2 nights Dresden-Hannover-overnight Hannover-Amsterdam-overnight Amsterdam-Rotterdam Home. Overnights include getting there in plenty of time to sightsee and plenty of time for a civilised departure to the next destination. If we have hiccup, so what. We sleep in the car lol We will be uploading pics and videos of our adventure so stay tuned.

Hi all, first post here after my introduction. My old Meriva is dying and although it has served me it has been far from Ideal. I bought it in lockdown when my Pug 307 developed an incurable fault for the princely sum of £400. It has done well and got me to work etc but it has always been too small. I'm a very keen angler, getting all my gear in the Meriva has always been nigh on impossible and now the Mrs is coming fishing too there is no way in hell I can get it all in nor will the old steed take the strain as the clutch is starting to fail. Time to change! I have a 20k + budget but there are specific needs. This is where the wealth of knowledge from you chaps comes in. My rod holdall is 197cm long and contains the best part of 2 grands worth of rods and reels. In the Meriva it protrudes in between the front seats and pretty much goes over the hand brake making town journeys a pain. There is my first requirement. A bootspace long enough to hold it. 197cm from boot to center console. The second requirement is fold flat seats (rear passenger). Now I understand that the Octavia has removeable benches as my old Pug did that allows for the back supports to fully fold flat? Does the Superb have the same setup or indeed does the Octavia do this? Does anyone know off hand how long either vehicles bootspace is for said 197cm? You might yell "get a van", I have a van but taking out all the tools etc on a weekly basis is just a PITA... Plus the Mrs would like a little more comfort and not be showered in detritus at every turn I take. I don't need a VRS just a good mile muncher with good MPG that is reliable and that is why SKODA fits the bill in essence, I just hope either the Octavia or Superb can deliver... Oh musgt be a manual GB, old school here! Cheers all, hope you can proffer some advice? Munchy

Any ignition live is fine for the brake switch wire.

The sensors (2nd pic) r two long strips that r placed inside the rear diffuser, as shown in the 1st pic.

No worries bud👍 I made a slight error in my previous post, you DONT uncheck lane assist with the same button, you press the scroll wheel to do that.

A couple of times, usually when there's tarmac works or whatever. Also, it goes on automatically when you throw the car into reverse, which is something I only picked up on a little while ago.

Car needs scanning with diagnostic tool, that will tell you whats wrong.

As per above, that looks like stone chip damage to me. That can happen no matter what car you buy. Could be a stone thrown over by a passing car. If it's something you want to avoid then only option is to buy plain steel wheels.

Do you have access to a multimeter?

I had the "Gearbox in emergency mode" problem last September. It happened while we were hundreds of miles from home but would reset when the engine was turned off for a few minutes. It would come back if the engine was worked hard. Got it booked it in at the main dealer when we got home and was quoted £86 (I think) for diagnostics if they didn't find anything. When it went in, they had found fault code logged (which meant I didn't have to pay the diagnostic fee) and they had already spoken to Skoda UK before they spoke to me. It's obviously a known issue as Skoda had already offered to pay 100% of parts cost (many hundreds) and 60% labour to replace the mechatronic unit. It was a special order part and took about 3 or 4 weeks to come in but got it fixed for less than £200 cost to me.

Not sure if you checked out the above 1896 link above, on page 6 onwards you will see plenty of people with 1803 that you have, they all needed to go in for update to 1896, then OTA updates should finally work. They need to look up TPI2065556 as it relates to your specific firmware and a metric ton of fault's.

Check this link https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10153586-9999.pdf Coolant systems with G12evo adding G13 top up is possible but wont offer the same level of protection. This is an offical document so a pretty good source.

Hi Munch, I just measured my Octavia - there is a least 2 metres length available with the forward end of load projecting to a point behind the front face of the seat bolsters (well clear of handbrake) - this is with both front seats fairly well back (long legs) The rear seats fold 'almost flat' with the variable floor in raised position - I've not tried removing the base cushions of the rear seats.

Welcome to the forum 🤝

Hi, If this is still topical, I have retrofitted an SII autodimming mirror in my daughter's Fabia. I cannot really comment on the Yeti, but assume that it is similar to a Fabia / Roomster.

I'd start with the connector strip first, then the individual bulb holders. A bit of TLC on all contacts might save you having to replace the whole lot. Is this the connector to the rear light? Separate, inspect and clean.

Guys is very simple to have maps in full screen just tap on maps icon on the left. Tapping apk icon you have full or 2/3 screen

Not fit for purpose so got a refund on them

Here is with photos: https://automend.ru/skoda-felicia/skoda-19685-10.m_id-2029.html https://www.drive2.ru/l/535038851823960781/ https://www.drive2.ru/l/2844587/ I had few years back the thought to oped it for inspection but my mechanic said ''No, forget it, too much trouble!"

It’s a rather odd one but I bought the car at 9 months old with 6k on it at the start of March 2020 and they serviced it before I even bought it and that’s when it’s been serviced in 2021&22, it’s had it’s brake fluid changed and the front diff has been serviced, sure I’ve got a print out off the works it’s had done pdi and so on somewhere

Am in pleased with karoq. Wanted a sportline kodiaq but realistically can't afford it. Octavia vrs was more money also. I would honestly say the sound in normal karoq matches the system in my wife's focus(snap!). The focus has slightly more bass though.

First things first, let's plug in and code some ****! Sounds like what I would do!

It is. I've just sold my Focus and bought a Kamiq, my wife has a Karoq, sound systems in both as good as the Focus

Thanks, Stubod. Couple of very valid points yopu raise there, I'm grateful. Was interested to hear you mention the Yaris Cross and the Niro (and the reference to old version as opposed the new one). The new Niro from Drivethedeal is quite a bit dearer than the Yaris Cross and the new version of the Niro is 55mm wider than the Yaris Cross (my garage door isn't very wide and two inches makes a difference) . The Kia dealer is more convenient re. servicing than the Yaris. Bothe have decent warranties. Both are well regarded but Toyota might have an even better reputation? I say all this having not driven either - or even sat in either ... ... that could make a difference (although I would think both are just fine). As I say, there's food for thought and you've highlighted a couple of important points. Ta.

Hello and welcome Matt Gaz

Having waited almost 3 weeks for a replacement ABS pump to come from a spanish Ebay vendor, it was fitted and bled yesterday. Works perfectly with no trip to the skoda garage to get it coded to the car. Also had to clear the latched engine faults 18057 and 18061. Happy days (finally)

Far better to ask on the Fabia II forum than the Octavia III forum !!!

Thermostat housing is leaking so ended up buying the two year all in warranty and at a vat, parts, labour cost of just on £1,100 the all in warranty being £699 over two years it’s paying for its self! Booked in for Monday 6th feb so should hopefully get fixed up! the headlight washer they claim was just blocked/frozen due to the cold despite it not working properly in October so I called BS on that, showed the mechanic and he agreed it’s not working so when the front end is off for the thermostat it’ll be getting looked at/fixed. rear clunk, haven’t the foggiest, took a mechanic out on a test drive and it was silent but when I drove home it immediately clunked out the road the forecourt is on, tried to get a video to show them but driving with your phone in hand videoing is dodgy and my dashcam doesn’t pick it up fully, they claim everything is tight suspension wise but once the thermostats fixed I may take it to my trusty Indy let them have a mooch. Checked the boot bump stoppers but they all seem sound so guess it’s a wait and see

So more like a true 137 which is probably about the claimed top speed for the car anyway. 119 deg C oil temperature is well within the temperature range for a modern fully synthetic oil. Would you like to talk about feeling guilty, now...? 🤔

A place to start your diagnosis from, - http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17524/P1116/004374

I don't have them but from what I read they're not necessarily harder or too firm compared to stock with the eibach springs. So you wouldn't have to go to 17"s. That said, I reckon the 17" were the best ride comfort proposition based on my experience on a mk5 golf.. I love the look of 19s but on the roads here and the level of harshness and bone rattling I'd find then very difficult to live with despite positive appearance and say advantages on a track.

SE ordered in January, week 03/2023, and was told then it would be built approx 15 weeks later with an additional 4 weeks for delivery, so was expecting it in early/mid June. I’ve now been told that the build week is now only 5 weeks or so later (very late Feb/first days of March) after ordering. Add on 4 weeks for delivery, and I hope to get it around Easter in early April.

Just for reference here is the EA888 Gen 4 motor and cover. As you can see the oil filler is further forward on the left side of the engine compared to the Gen 3. This is the engine cover that has caused all the problems. It's a floppy, spongey material that never anchored properly to the engine mounting studs and also melts near the turbo (!) - basically it's cheap and nasty and further evidence of VW Group cost cutting. And nowhere near as nice as the updated Gen 3 rigid cover on MY20+ vehicles with that engine. It doesn't appear there's an imminent fix to the Gen 4 cover and so all VW Group vehicles with that engine are going out without any cover and it looks a mess.

Yes it can be done. I’ve done it on my own car and a few customer cars. coding wise if fairly straight forward but takes a bit of fiddling - if I remember there’s a pretty good write up about it on the Ross tech forum that covered a similar car and a lot of discussion around it also.

Did you get this sorted? The first port of call is to read the fault codes logged and stored inbthe car's brain, this is usually what any independent garage or main dealer would do. These codes are unlikely to fully diagnose the fault, but they will at least give you an idea where to start. Unfortuantely the loss of gears on the DSG is rarely a good thing, often hinting at a faulty mechatronics unit (the electronic brain of the complex DSG gearbox), which invariably means a big bill. But that's worst case, it might also be something much simpler and less expensive - this is why reading the fault codes is important rather than trying to guess. The 'stop start error' might be related, quite often the failure of one system will result in the unavailability of others, but again the fault codes will help to link or separate the issues. Any reputable garage should quote your their initial diagnostic rates or hourly labour rates as their minimum charge, and not replace parts or incur any additional costs to you without first gaining your permission to proceed, this is even more likely at a franchised main dealer, although their rates will be higher. There are numerous recalls, service bulletins and TPI's associated with the DSG and mechatronics, if you did decide to take it to a Skoda dealer, even though your vehicle is out of warranty, you maybe eligible for an offer of goodwill towards the repair costs.

Got to be honest, nothing so far seems like it’s worth spending money on. And no DSG “farts” anymore either. Sad times. ☹️

Hi, I diagnosed the problem, this is an issue with trunk lid earthing. Three symptoms: endplate lights were starting yellow ,,check lights'' on the dashboard, it was working but very dim, rear wiper was not working every time and trunk lock did not open every time. After I slam the trunk it comes back to normal and after some time it is losing contact again. I will use WD40 on the hinges as a temporary solution and will add additional earthing wire on the weekend. The crazy thing is that engine kept going without key with headlights on... This failure was present for some time, but since it happened I've never switched engine off with headlights on and generally did not use headlights during last time as we have summer and Fabia is my city driving daily, so I also did not notice yellow light on the dashboard at all. I'm sure original author had the same issue as it is surprisingly similar. Best regards.