Leaderboard

I ordered new - Head gasket - Head bolts - Head module bolts (18pcs) - piston rings - conrod bearings + bolts - main bearings + bolts - thrust bearings - crank seals - cam seals - charge cooler gasket - exhaus gasket - oil pump belt - oil pump seals - injector seals - injector bolts - and other bits and peaces I'm not changing the main blet and punp since I changed them 8k ago (the pump was leaking) but I didn't have the money to rebuild The bores are not scratched but they need honing. The cross hatches are bearly visible. The piston skitrs are ok. They show some sign of use but nothing scary. I don't have experience with these things but I showed them to 3 mechanics that are my friends and they all say they can be reused. I need to clean them

Seen first on clubgti.com, seemed too handy not to propagate further: https://www.yumpu.com/en/document/read/38656239/audi-vw-renoks/5 Could be handy if you break one, and want to replace, but can't see a part number on it.

Having just read article http://mechanexpert.com/timing-belt-replacement-on-mk7-golf-1-0-tsi the non-round pulley system might be an area of concern if not done correctly as could have potential to change balance of engine I would have thought, but would expect main Skoda dealer to do correctly with the right tools? Maybe question technician if get chance, thanks for info.

Underseal simply locks any existing rust and moisture in place, it should only be used on rust free areas which lack protection, i.e. freshly welded areas of clean metal.

Rust has made a big comeback on VAG products, they were so much better from the 82 Golf 1 right through to the Golf 4 and then it all went wrong… my 200k Octavia 1U has had zero structural or cosmetic rust except where morons had used trolley jacks on the sills before I bought it and to be honest, Skoda are better than the rest of the VAG range especially Audi on the 8E and 8K A4 which suffer horrible floorpan and chassis leg rust. Even the aluminium A8 is not immune, last year we had an 8 year old A8 in and I just put my fingers through the subframe where the diff mounts, a huge job to fit a new subframe

It would be hard for me to say, but it's certainly not been swapped in the 5 years I've had it. I think this second hand unit is possibly worth a go.

@Breezy_Pete It's a cold start phenomenon - the starter has never been that willing, but during the last couple of years during winter cold snaps I've experienced slow to medium speed cranking where it will start turning but then sounds like it suddenly "jams up". I've ruled out the battery and due to otherwise acceptable performance when the weather is above 5 degrees, I don't think it's the ignition switch or the solenoid wire. I know it could be an earthing fault, but I've checked all cables and cleaned up connections where possible, although haven't got as far as testing things with a multi meter. My gut says it's potentially the solenoid sticking, so I was going to take a chance on a second hand unit with a guarantee or possibly a re-manufactured one. @varooom it's useful to know this part was superseded by later versions.

I loved my 68 plate 1.5tsi sel hatch apart from its rear boot hatch rattled from the start. On and off as well. But my new vRS estate is game changing. Leagues ahead on build quality and perceived interior quality. I’m brand new to DSG and I am a fan of it 90% of the time but still crave a manual. All the people who’ve had a look round it have said the same - can’t believe this is a Skoda it’s actually desirable. It’s insanely comfortable and more refined and quiet on the road than my 1.5 was. I have DCC and it’s I think priceless - not tried one without but it rides so well whilst still being sporty. I’ve hung up my racing suit (civic type r, jcw cooper s, m3 and boxster s came before the family cars) but it still gives you some of that satisfaction without the drama. Hate the super quiet exhaust as many have said but I suppose in a way it’s good to not be shouty. The fact you can’t set the default driver mode is a massive annoyance surprisingly even though it’s only one button and a touch screen press away it does and will drive you mad too. The virtual dash is superb but I wish it was a bit more like my old Skodas to navigate through it’s far more distracting. Though to be fair maybe I’m not used it it yet. Rear estate boot doesn’t seem as big let alone bigger than my old hatch though what’s that about! It’s gonna be a long period of ownership all being well but up to now I feel great getting in to drive it which previously only my Porsche and BMWs have given me every single day I used them. Crap turning circle and my jcw was driven very very hard but still returned better MPG - actually going to stop now before I start regretting it after all 😂

£1150 bud. There was the diff and then a crown wheel fitting that was also needed. Expensive but hopefully worth it

A clockspring/squib issue would effect all buttons as it's a shared connection. It's much more likely to be a roller-wheel issue, probably some dust or lint that's got into the mechanism (it's an optical sensor). I'd be tempted to remove the buttons, open them and give them a clean first

Hahaha.. Thank you.. Fingers crossed

Thread resurrection time ! Quite impressed to see the beading this morning after the detail I did just over 2 months ago. Fusso Soft 99 topped with Done and dusted Si Edition, holding up well I thought ☺️

Mine was done on a OBDEleven, from EFB to AGM ("Fleece"), altered Ah and added one to lazy factory entry for serial number and although not important the make was changed, put in as BOSCH, and shows as 'BOS' on another scan tool. The coding was done a few days after the battery was fitted and the AGM battery fully charged with a battery charger before being fitted. That was all 20 months ago and all seems fine. The battery was recharged around Xmas as my wife uses the car on lots of very short journeys. Print out below from OBDEleven 'coding' the battery.

Due to high number of requests let me make some short summary of units that can be installed in Octavia III cars. I have focused only on MIB2 / MIB2.5 units, to indicate differences between them. Simplified Bolero MY15 unit 5Q0035819 (without DAB) or 5Q0035820 (with DAB) Simplified Bolero MY16 unit 5Q0035819A (without DAB) or 5Q0035820A (with DAB) Simplified Bolero MY17 unit 5Q0035819B (without DAB) or 5Q0035820B (with DAB) Simplified Bolero MY18 unit 5Q0035819C (without DAB) or 5Q0035820C (with DAB) Bolero MY15 unit 5Q0035840 (without DAB) or 5Q0035842 (with DAB) Bolero MY16 unit 5Q0035840A (without DAB) or 5Q0035842A (with DAB) Bolero MY17 unit 5Q0035840B (without DAB) or 5Q0035842B (with DAB) Bolero MY18 unit 5Q0035840C (without DAB) or 5Q0035842C (with DAB) Bolero MY19 unit 565035840 (without DAB) or 565035842 (with DAB) Amundsen MY16 unit 5Q0035864A (without DAB) or 5Q0035874A (with DAB) Amundsen MY17 unit 5Q0035864B (without DAB) or 5Q0035874B (with DAB) Amundsen MY18 unit 5Q0035864C (without DAB) or 5Q0035874C (with DAB) Amundsen MY19 unit 565035864 (without DAB) or 565035874 (with DAB) Columbus MIB2 unit 3V0035020x (with DAB, with regular Bluetooth, without LTE Modem) Columbus MIB2 unit 3V0035021x (with DAB, with premium Bluetooth, with LTE Modem) Columbus MIB2 unit 3V0035043x (without DAB, with regular Bluetooth, without LTE Modem) Columbus MIB2 unit 3V0035044x (without DAB, with premium Bluetooth, with LTE Modem) Columbus MIB2.5 unit 565035020x (with DAB, with regular Bluetooth, without LTE Modem) Columbus MIB2.5 unit 565035021x (with DAB, with premium Bluetooth, with LTE Modem) Columbus MIB2.5 unit 565035043x (without DAB, with regular Bluetooth, without LTE Modem) Columbus MIB2.5 unit 565035044x (without DAB, with premium Bluetooth, with LTE Modem) All MIB2 units (as well as Columbus MIB1 which is not listed here) work with 800x480 pixels screens, either 6.5 or 8 inch. MY15 unit support MirrorLink only (no support for SmartLink). SImplified Bolero units do not support rear view camera and voice command. Simplified Bolero, Bolero and Amundsen MY15 and MY16 have old style (rotating, monochrome) menu, with only 1 skin having 5 memory buttons in radio and phone menu. They don't support for APP key in 8 inch FL screens. Simplified Bolero, Bolero and Amundsen MY17 have old style (rotating, monochrome) menu, with 2 skins having 5 or 6 memory buttons in radio and phone menu. It may also support Media Command (depending on FEC.SWaP codes installed). Simplified Bolero, Bolero and Amundsen MY18 has both old style (rotating, monochrome) and new style (pictures, color) menu, with 2 skins having 5 or 6 memory buttons in radio and phone menu. It may also support Media Command (depending on FEC. SWaP codes installed). Columbus units have built-in DVD drive and HDD for maps and audio / video files. Only Columbus units can play video files from USB/CD/DVD/SD. Every MIB2 Columbus unit can be reworked into MIB2.5 unit if required. MIB2.5 Columbus requires new 9.2" screen 5E0919606D. Every Columbus unit can drive directly subwoofer and central speaker (although this setup is not officially supported by Skoda). "x" at the end of Columbus units model number is letter A/B/C/D. Can also be missing. It makes no difference, just indicates original SW release family. Every of listed above units can be reworked into Plug&Play version (no need to visit SKODA dealer).

That looks like a Mini-USB. So what you want is a short cable with a male USB-C on one end and the other end Mini-USB. Something like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Duttek-Degree-Converter-Digital-Devices/dp/B075M4CQHZ?ref_=ast_sto_dp

Sorry, can't help with that. My comment was based on general experience with pumps as they normally need to be able to create an hydraulic seal in order to pump. A quick Google[tm] search for help on this brought up: "Risk of damage to the high pressure pump through running dry If the high pressure pump is removed or replaced, the initial fuel filling of the high pressure pump must be carried out before the first engine start. For this purpose, connect the vehicle diagnosis, measurement and information system -VAS 505x- and carry out the targeted function „bleeding the fuel system“. During this function, the fuel pump is actuated for 180 seconds." https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk2/power_unit/1.6/55;_66;_77_kw_tdi_cr_engine/fuel_preparation_system_diesel_injection/fuel_system_engine_side/removing_and_installing_the_high_pressure_pump/ https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk2/power_unit/2.0/81;_103;_125_kw_tdi_cr_engine_(2nd_generation)/fuel_preparation_system_diesel_injection/fuel_system_engine_side/high_pressure_pump_summary_of_components/

If 7 speed and fitted to a 2.0 TSI or TDI it is a DQ381 as a DQ250 is 6 speed. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/511232-dsg-dq381

I think I read about their dodginess years ago on clubgti, and the name rang a bell, hence googling and finding that less than stellar trustpilot rating.

When I take your original part number of 02T 911 024 A and put it into parts catalog, it takes you to a VW Polo with same engine code. If you google the part number, it of course has integrated solenoid. As time goes on, it get's replaced by several replacements, and it gets external solenoid. So it begins as... 02T 911 024 A 02T 911 023 R 02T 911 024 N https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/02t911024n

Wow, that is A LOT of oil for a gearbox. More than what goes in my engine!

Oh no.........look what I've started!!!!! So, for the avoidance of doubt.......mechanical sympathy prevents me from putting my car into 1st while moving.

+1

Thanks varooom. Sent you PM.

Ok fair to say there’s differences of opinion on this which I appreciate everyone’s opinions. But for those who believe the gearbox isn’t designed for downshifting from 2nd to 1st unless you’ve come to a complete stop just try the following. Throw the DSG into sport mode. Drive in S2 at around 3000rpm (which is around 40km/hr). Dump your right foot on the accelerator. What happens. DSG downshifts under full throttle to S1 jumping up to around 4000-4500rpm under full torque from the engine. now which scenario is putting more strain on your gearbox. The one above or downshifting from 2nd to 1st under engine compression braking.

Now, let me consider the options here..... 1. Drop the gearbox into 1st so I can engine brake whilst moving, to come to a stop Or 2. Leave the gearbox in 2nd and use the brakes to come to a stop, and let the gearbox automatically drop into 1st when it's ready. I know which one I'll b doing as I'd much prefer to replace brake pads & rotors, rather than having the mechatronics replaced.

They have put it on hold as to reduce the backlog of current version may be end of year or early next. If you have put an order for current version this what you will get you have to do a new order for facelift when it comes out

Well, I dropped the VRS TSi down to the dealer for a small job and I came out to find a cover fitted. I had none from new. I tried to pull it up to see part numbers but it's all sponge. There's no hard shell on top to grab. As it's sponge, I tried to pull but it just bent. I chickened out when pulling it.... As an aside, I've been told that it's months of back order for the fabric panel that clips onto the underside of the bonnet.

Because 1st gear's function is for moving off from rest on the flat or on a 1in4 gradient and is geared appropriately.

Just use the brakes for the last little bit and leave the box in second, it's not like you're driving an 18 wheeler with a heavy load. You're really doing things to a dsg box that it wasn't designed to be doing. There is a thing called mechanical sympathy.

@asus ? Do you know what is involved? Have you got what you require to do it? Is the car near 80,000 miles, and are you considering doing the filter? Which there is even if VW do not show it requiring doing. EDIT. Last night in the Engine oil post you said the car has done 31,000 miles. *Skoda / VW have the Service interval / recommendation, guidelines, schedule @ 80,000 miles, i would have it done sooner, but by a VW Approved Repairer where they take the hit if they mess up the job. Quite likely they will if you use some of the Edinburgh Main Dealers. If you have a warranty now with the car you bought i would leave it well alone, and if you have no warranty i would buy one that covers the DQ381. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/508177-remap-chiptuning-available-for-the-20tsi-vrs/page/4

The driving instructor is an idiot.

I was thinking exactly the same thing. One of my children does that in his manual car and you can hear the gear whining as it's turning at far too high a speed it's designed to do, the driving instructor told me to do it is the answer I get.... It won't be the driving instructor who'll be crawling around the breakers yards looking for a replacement gearbox 😡

+1 i often drive in Manual mode, and i've never had to downshift into 1st. i'll drop down to 2nd, and when i'm almost at a standstill, the car will automatically drop it down to 1st, seamlessly.

Even in “manual” mode, it’ll still change down to 1st at standstill “automatically”.

So decided to buy different wheels for citigo, initially planned to fit my RHZW1 but after today's test fit I will keep the Schmidt TH Line. 17x8 and 17x8.5 fits bang on, no spacers etc, need to give them good clean and play with tyres as 2 need to be replaced but if everything goes well they may be fitted over the weekend 😁 VID_20230228_164922.mp4

They do ! 4 ratings ... Adult Occupant Child Occupant Vulnerable Road Users Safety Assist each split into GOOD, ADEQUATE, MARGINAL, WEAK and POOR with pictograms for the occupants showing the ratings and how they may impact the occupant ... leg, head, chest etc. To see the detail you need to visit the euroncap website. The total star rating is only the headline.

Cant beat a bit of macro Jewelled wasp

Again, with the macro... If you look close enough you can see where the rust has bedded in.

Currently awaiting a return call from one of their managers.

This evening's sunset and Moon ..............

The thing is that there will be a number of folk on here (myself included) don't really have a care for the milage gaps but more the time element (as very low milage) and the "unkown" I guess is the effect of time on the rubber (perishing / freeze/thaw over the years), so, for us, I guess 4 or 5 years unless you like taking a risk. I guess at 5 years the car might be worth £8K so its the gamble of £3K+ for a new engine or £900 for the belt. It seems sensible to go for the £900 option really at Year 4. If you don't and then come to try to sell it on at Y5+ then the buyer is going to be knocking you down by 1K anyway as they will know it needs doing. I often look at old rubber bands in my drawer and also things like the rubber seals on items like food processors (that I have and only use every 5 years. You can see the cracks in the rubber and 5 year old rubber bands have a habit of just snapping when you try to use them, Not very scientific I appreciate.

U can activate it using the instructions below, provided u have the correct A5 camera.....

Great to see so many people having a go at this and finding my guide useful - i'm sure most of you will agree that it is a fairly straight forward process if approached logically and step-by-step. Thanks to all those that have added additional info and answered questions. If you're still thinking of doing this - go for it!

Great tips, EnterName, and a couple of observations from me.. Yes, deffo try the camera before installing it in the tailgate. I didn’t, but as can be gathered from my earlier posts, I wish I had! I started at the tailgate end with the cable, actually at the top of the tailgate, as I thought there’d be more room to ‘lose’ the excess cable behind the glovebox (and, as you said, that way the smaller connector is fed through). I wasn’t able (brave enough?) to remove the two rectangular clips either side of the rear wiper motor immediately below the rear window, so I managed to do the job without removing the furry tailgate trim completely, just wedging it away from the frame to give access. I didn’t disturb the upper (shiny) one at all, because tbh, I couldn’t work out how to release the clips! I suppose I was fortunate that I managed to remove the boot latch one-handed. To get the cable from the rubber gaiter to the boot latch required a long length of net curtain wire, but it was fairly easy to thread it down through the double skinned tailgate frame. When replacing the glove box, make sure that the ‘brake’ lever that dampens the action is fully extended, otherwise it’s extremely difficult - even impossible? - to get it to latch on properly. And finally, if, with all the acrobatics under the glove box you accidentally knock off the bonnet release lever, the good news is that it just pushes back on. 🙂 Malcolm

Abit of light drizzle on the car this morning!

Still planning on recording the sound when I can. Hoping to capture sounds/footage from inside and outside the car, when it's clean, when I have time - so the stars need to align The lower mount's a tricky one. There's some vibration in the cabin when in D and not moving, and during low speed maneouvres, but otherwise it's fine. The vibration has eased off slightly since it was first installed too. It's annoying but liveable during normal everyday driving, but when you push on you have the reassurance that the engine movement is more controlled and wheel hop is a thing of the past. Next... ? Not sure! I doubt I'll take this car any further now as I'm really happy with how it looks and drives. I've considered an ARB upgrade but honestly I'm happy with the handling balance - it's neutral already, so a rear ARB upgrade alone might make it unstable. I could retrofit virtual cockpit and upgrade the sound system, but I don't drive it enough to really benefit from the cost of those so the plan is to save money for the next car purchase, which is likely to be a Superb Sportline 280. I can transfer a lot of the Octavia's mods onto it, gain a load of interior space and AWD in one go, plus it has the potential for a lot more power.

If this guide is useful please add a like

I've put together a 'How to' guide here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/485897-how-to-reverse-camera-fitting-guide/ Thanks to SashaGrace and all those that have gone before me for the info on camera etc.