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Talking of right place and right time - I was passing by, camera in hand, just as this beauty started to stretch it's wings..........

Yeah, we are both on the same page. Lets not let solutions at a cost to me get in the way of the fact its totally unacceptable, should never have happened and should be taken on the chin and resolved by Skoda.

Visited Shugborough Hall yesterday (ancestral home of Patrick Lichfield) - definitely a day for reflections.

To be fair most of the issues can be fixed with the mechanical know how and determination and the correct tools , @Mickmartindid a full mechatronics overhaul and a timing chain replacement on his driveway, the hydraulic oil accumulator on the mechatronics fails by cracking on the thread, so a clever uprated thread insert and different accumulator were created, as for the op’s issue I would say swarf has built up on the gear selector magnets , causing it to struggle getting into gears/figuring out what gear it’s in

+++ 2023.11.14 +++ -> next 2024 +++ 2023.04.30 +++ -> next 2023/2024 cross compatible on: Skoda Columbus (Mib2H), Seat Navi Plus (Mib2H), VW Discover Pro (Mib2H), Audi MMI Navigation Plus (Mib2H) # ECE 2023 26.2 GB Version: V03.959.820.BL 310 ECE 2023 DevVersion: P310_N60S5MIBH3_EU_NT_Q1.22 VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/P310_N60S5MIBH3_EU.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/P310_N60S5MIBH3_EU.7z Files inside: 2022.04.04 Downloadable: 2022.11.03 Published: 2022.11.28 Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/HIGH12_P310_EU_202245.zip Files inside: 2022.04.04 Downloadable: 2022.11.28 Published: 2022.12.01 Seat portal: - - Downloadable: 2022.--.-- Published: 2022.--.-- # Rest of World 2023 24.3 Gb Version: V03.959.818.K 0313 ROW 2023 DevVersion: P313_N60S5MIBH3_ROW_NT_Q1.22 VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/P313_N60S5MIBH3_ROW.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/P313_N60S5MIBH3_ROW.7z Files inside: 2022.05.20 Downloadable: 2022.11.03 Published: 2022.11.28 Škoda portal: - - Downloadable: 2022.--.-- Published: 2022.--.-- Seat portal: - - Downloadable: 2022.--.-- Published: 2022.--.-- ======= coverage ======= # EU Albania*, Andorra, Austria, Belarus*, Belgium, Bosnia and Herzegovina*, Bulgaria*, Croatia, Cyprus*, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia*, Finland, France, Germany, Gibraltar, Great Britain, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Kosovo*, Latvia*, Liechtenstein, Lithuania*, Luxembourg, Malta, Moldova*, Monaco, Montenegro*, Netherlands, Northern Macedonia*, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania*, Russia*, San Marino, Serbia*, Slovakia, Slovenia*, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey*, Ukraine*, Vatican City * partially # ROW Argentina*, Australia, Bahrain, Botswana*, Brazil*, Brunei*, Chile*, Indonesia*, Israel, Jordan, Kuwait, Lesotho*, Malaysia, Mexico*, Mozambique*, Namibia*, New Zealand, Oman, Philippines*, Qatar, Reunion*, Saudi Arabia, Singapore, South Africa, Swaziland*, Thailand*, Turkey*, United Arab Emirates * partially ======= instruction ======= 1. download 7z/zip archive from direct link 2. extract content to SD Card or USB 3. insert memory device into slot of Columbus 4. start of update usually is offered automatically, manually can be found under Navi-> Settings !!! note for MAC users -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/452002-direct-download-links-for-ece-20182019-maps/page/2/?tab=comments#comment-5095042 couple of potential questions are answered in previous posts: Columbus Maps 2022/2023 Columbus Maps 2022 Columbus Maps 2021/2022 Columbus Maps 2021 Columbus Maps 2020/2021 Columbus Maps 2020 monthly POI's collection files downloading from X-o-m-k-a's blog

Be aware that the original rear mudflaps, part no. 57A075101 do not fit the facelifted Karoq (discovered after half hour of head scratching and thinking this should be easier than it was proving to be). The edge of the bumper is thicker and doesn't fit properly into the recess in the moulded mud flap, and the hole for the lower torx screw has moved about half inch! Part no. 57A075101A (note the A at the end) is for the rear mudflaps for the facelifted Karoq, from Sept 2022 onwards.

Worth noting that when my driver's window went (see my topic linked above!), the passenger window regulator went a month or two later. Might be worth doing both while you're there perhaps?

No, they're airtight enough.

Whyever not? You will have driven past it on the way to the MOT.

@LaurenceCarr Just pull them off carefully one ‘petal’ at a time, they’re a lot looser fitting than I was expecting which makes me suspect even more that they will harbour grit/dirt and rub holes in the lacquer. I’m just waiting for my centre caps to arrive next week then mine will be permanently removed as well.

1964 Aston on the Hailsham by-pass earlier this afternoon: Glorious 😎 Gaz

Apologies - the message, or at least one of them says exactly that - can't drive whilst updating. Sods law, when I drove the car this morning a software update request came in, I had to use the screen so message disappeared. When I'd stopped the car I went back into notifications and saw the message displayed was exactly as you said. Even when actioning the update, the wording suggested the update wouldn't work whist driving but that you could still use the infotainment whilst update worked in the background. Wonder what their definition of 'driving' is 😀 I think it's another one of those 'lost in translation' messages because a minute after I'd started driving I received the message to say update complete. The one annoying thing I've found with these things is once the update is complete, you then receive a message to say 'You can now use the new functions' ( or words to that effect ), but it doesn't tell you what those functions are. 🤣 All-in-all VW's latest infotainment systems aren't very user friendly.

Not likely, I'm not a tartan rug, scatter cushion ditherer!

Sounds like the bowden cables in the window regulator have snapped. Had the same thing happen on my wife’s beetle recently, not a complicated job to fix but fiddly and the parts were quite expensive. With no tension, the window started to drop slightly when driving about, so had to tape up until repaired.

1) the rear beam is not interchangeable. While dimensions and mounting points are similar, hatchback/estate has coilover dampers, so there are no spring cups on the beam itself. Regarding the VAG parts, only stub axles are comatible with VW models. The pickup was also sold as Caddy Pickup, so try to look up that model, too.

Sounds similar to this perhaps

Update on this. I ended up buying a Skoda rear wiper blade. On inspection of the old blade, the wiper rubber can be extracted quite easily from the end. I then removed the 280mm rubber from a new Bosch yeti blade I had lying, and with a bit washing up liquid to help inserted it in the Kodiaq blade. Wish I had thought of this earlier, but there you go, if you don’t want to pay Skoda prices , just buy a Bosch Yeti rear blade and replace the rubber in your Kodiaq blade.

As soon as I have starting issues I replace the battery. You can drive a car with dodgy brakes or steering (not that I am advocating either) but a car that won't start is only good for keeping chickens in.

https://imgur.com/a/CxCXl10

I sent him a picture of my car and he said deff fit so I've ordered.. Thanks..

No. Get a working battery and connect it to the very weak battery using jump leads in parallel (+ve to +ve, -ve to -ve). Then connect the smart charger. The combined voltage of the two batteries should now be high enough for the smart charger to kick in and do its thing.

Sending you a PM with contact details…

www.kopacek.com sells various bits and boobs for all Skoda models. I had a set from them fitted by my panel shop and apart from the material they are made from not being as study as some other flaps I've had on my previous (non-Skoda) cars, they seem to be up to the job. They claim free delivery in the EU but I wonder if the UK falls within that classification.

I ask because you are clearly unhappy with how the car is right now but know it can be better. I'm confident it's a single car issue as you also seem to have found. Maybe a change of car is what you need unfortunately. Unless, like I kind of loaded the question, you want to keep the car and end up getting the box tuned.

@Peebs101 Remember, there is the Haldex @ 3 year / 30,000 miles. Oil & filter. Then the rear diff, which is different. George, (In Forfar)

Two possibilities. Firstly, You have an upstream fuse blown. Check the fuses in the engine bay fuse box behind and to the left of the battery. Secondly, if the engine starts and runs for about ten seconds it indicates that the immobiliser has cut the engine. Try the second key. Beyond that, the next step is to read the stored fault codes. Code readers are cheap for a basic unit with no built in decoding such as a ELM 327 and suitable software on your phone etc. Once you have the code numbers they can be decoded by many online sites or by making a search for the code number.

I haven't a clue why the systems say can't be started whilst driving. At a pure guess I suspect it's some jobsworth's idea as a safety issue ( as if we don't already use the infotainment whilst driving ) otherwise I see no reason for it. But that's the way it is and there's nothing we can do about it. If it comes up again, you can search the history next time you're stopped and you should find the message which you can then action. Or if your car is DSG, a wee trick I use, is don't touch the screen, just leave the message as it is, then next time you come up to a junction / traffic lights etc , put the lever in the 'P' position and if the engine stop/start has kicked in, it seems to trick the dowload software into thinking you're no longer driving. Just press the OK on screen and the update starts. It then says you can drive whilst the update runs in the background. It's all a bit over complicated if you ask me. If I had written the software I'd have a checkbox asking whether to allow automatic downloads or if you want to be notified of a download. If you chose the former then the system just downloads in the background. Suppose that's too simple. 🤣

Maybe the OP will be back later to tell us more and if filling to MAX each time, and how low the coolant drops.

Agreed, it’s actually ridiculous 😂😂

Welcome. If your 1.5 TSI ACT is FWD (& it is) then the 7 Speed Twin Dry Clutch DSG is a DQ200 and there is no Service Schedule, Guidelines or Recommendations for Oil changes. So they are right. There is 2 oils, in the box and in the MCU and no need to change them. (They can be changed, but i can understand why they are not offering to do that job for you.)

This looks like the same one I used… Blue Spot Soft Grip Precision Knife Set https://amzn.eu/d/8k7owoo The colour is different but it’s the same item I ordered from Amazon in 2018 so I reckon it’ll do the job.

Hi MicMac, Thanks for the suggestions. I have installed a new cabin filter, which I hadn't done before (courtesy of this YouTube video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=12rOmisqZig ), there was a LOT of stuff embedded in the filter. Then I vacuumed the 'grilles in the ceiling unit where the ultrasonic interior motion detector lives' as you suggested, then the ceiling fabric around the grilles, and the rest of the car generally. I have locked the car as I normally would, with the remote key fob, without first disabling the interior motion detector as I was doing previously. I still have the same behaviour with the Indicator light in the driver's door I described in my original post, however, it's been a couple of hours now, and the hazards haven't flashed so far. I will keep monitoring it throughout the day and will report any change. Thanks again for your help. Cheers, Dave.

I got the Mann filter, you can go on their website and find the correct one. When you change the pollen filter make sure you put a bit of cardboard under the pollen filter then pull the cardboard out whilst holding the pollen filter. Majority of the videos online don’t do this 😞

Wheel alignment time. Drives so much better without the toe out that it had lol

I have just done this. See details in video description. Very pleased!

They have updated the app, now and it tells you to wait up to 5 mins and also retry. However mine still fails 😞 John

The battery monitor is on top of the negative terminal. First check its plugged in, then check wire continuity, if they are both okay, the negative terminal will need replacing.

Look for an unplugged connector near the battery negative post.

Wohoo. Today the dealer informed me that my car has been manufactured and the VIN number has been received. Now we have to wait a couple of weeks for delivery.

It’s rather annoying though when you almost stop then want to go again at a roundabout or crossroads…!

Hi, I have posted a few topics on the Octavia 2 forum in the last 14 years and have received much useful advice - but this is my last post ! My 2008 Octavia Scout has gone ahead of needing mega money to fix all that was going wrong - new clutch, DMF, pads & discs all round, all CV joint boots and thats just the start, still had propshaft drone around 2k rpm in 6th and waiting for front suspension to give way. Having said all that, it has been my best tow-car ever (two 2.0l Cavaliers, Subaru Forester) and has only let me down once when battery (original) failed after six years. On a run easily got 40-45 MPG with a best recorded (at 70) of 57 MPG. Never failed to pull caravan off any surface, mud, snow etc and was a pleasure to drive - the 8V BMM engine, I think, the best of the 2.0TDI - emissions constantly almost zero and NEVER a problem with DPF. Hope you are sat down reading this as its replacement is a 17 plate Fabia 1.2SE TSI and if you can get a greater contrast, please let me know ! Was quite surprised by the 1.2 engine which has almost a diesel quality torque wise, £20 tax instead of around £280 and good fuel consumption fits the bill now as we no longer tow or need to move wardrobes, ladders (and believe it or not a full size bath IN the car) about. So farewell to the Octavia 2 forum, thanks for all the help and advice and good luck to you all. Cheers, Lloyd

So hi to all citigo owners. Due to my mk3 superb recently has been written off I've decided to downgrade to smaller car. After some research I've made decision to buy 2016 citigo colour edition 1.0 60hp 5d with around 38k miles. I'm owning the car for just around 3 weeks and I absolutely love it. 3 first photos from the day when I bought it and rest shows my small mods Inc: Fitting Garmin Pid New Skoda fabia Monte Carlo leather steering wheel Sound deadening to boot Inc carpets on sides Boot floor mat Smoked side indicators Led interior light and boot light Led numberplate light Front grill wrapped gloss black Rear lights tinted partially (just white bits) And the biggest mod so far H&R springs. Car is booked for remap tomorrow 😎

Thanks for the help

So I think I've made decision to keep my RH ZW splits and after refurb they will be fitted to citigo. Still need to order correct spacers and fully refurb the wheels but think they look not bad 😁 Some photos from test fit. VID_20230222_170349.mp4

New number 3 glow plug (preferably all four) and investagte why the grill is playing up, active aerodynamics, more things to go wrong that do bugger all! Looking at ETKA, the blind has changed part number five times to a new number 3V0 122 321 E at £366 so that is probaly the answer.

Given they're plastic and not intended to be constantly taken off/on I can't see why they would damage the alloy. ( assuming both the trims and the alloy are 100% free of grit when mounting them that is ). On the contrary, with the plastic insert in place surely that'd offer additional protection than an alloy without inserts? If it were me, they'd be removed and stored in the loft until the day I sold the car because I think the trims look crap.

I hear what people are saying about the infotainment and agree that to find some things you have to go deeper into the menu, however the things that I use the most I have setup as a shortcut on the pull down tab so I now don't have to go into sub menus. This works for me and I can change things with the minimum of fuss. I was a bit overwhelmed by the amount of information you can have on display and I was regularly changing it on different journeys but now I seldom change anything and leave it on a setup I'm happy with. I really only tend to use the info in the virtual cockpit now as that's very easy to change on the move from the steering wheel controls. That said, I can appreciate others views, but I really like it. I've got a few glitches but I'm not losing sleep over it, I'm sure a software patch will fix that soon.

If you don't love the Octavia for her driving, space, simple and clever solutions then you'll hate it. The infotainment is devastatingly bad. I had my MK3 Octavia vRS Manual from 2014 for 6 years and I love it. Now I have the new RS for a week and and I’m almost sorry I bought it... all that because of the infotainment system. Using this infotainment during driving is worse and more dangerous than using the phone. For the last 6 years me and my family loved Škoda. My wife have Fabia and my son also Octavia from 2014. The purchase of a new octavia left a very bitter aftertaste and at the moment I don't know what to think ...

£230 is about right for a garage I guess! It was actually a very easy job on my Audi. Brand new regulator on eBay was about £20. I'm not sure how different the Octavia will be but I can't imagine it will be too dissimilar: The door card is secured with only 2 screws, the time consuming part is disconnecting all of the electrical plugs, and there are quite a few I think it was 3 torx bolts to remove the window motor The window regulator is riveted to the door frame, which is attached to the door panel by 4 big torx bolts. Once you undo these the whole frame, regulator and window simply lift out Drilling out the rivets is fairly easy with a decent drill and proper drill bits for metal The window is attached to the regulator by two plastic clips with screws through them, very easy to swap over to a new regulator I riveted the new regulator back onto the door frame, although some people choose to use nut and bolt instead. I had a hard time finding rivets big enough because the ones required are HUGE. Putting in a rivnut and using a small bolt and washer is probably a better idea which I will bear in mind for the future Reassembly is the most difficult part, for a start when you put the door frame back on the door panel you have to line it up correctly or the door will not shut correctly, or the door seal will not be effective. Takes a bit of fine tuning to get this right Putting the window motor back in can be a bit of a fiddle as you have to line up the splines on the motor with the new regulator Make sure to connect all the electrical plugs, you don't wanna find out when you've put it all back together that the window switch or mirror adjustment isn't working! Connecting the door handle mechanism and getting the door lock pin in the correct position was the most difficult part as you have to do both of these while the door card is half fitted, although the Octavia doesn't have lock pins so one less thing to worry about Finally once everything is done make sure you go through the procedure for the car to learn the limits of the window travel so the one touch up/down works. Total time for job was about 2 hours the first time I did it, and about 30 minutes each time after that. No better feeling of seeing the window opening and closing smoothly especially if you've driven with an inoperative window for 9 months like I did when my driver's one failed a few years ago!