Leaderboard

Collected him (yup, called him Shrek) today. Didn't have enough time to go for a decent photo venue before darkness so the border Aire had to do.

I do feel for some of you guys, those long waiting times are crazy. It's the same situation here with virtually all new cars (except for Chinese brands which seem to be plentiful). Last month I finally decided on buying a Mk IV Octavia, but realised it would likely involve a long wait since all new ones are advertised as 'available to order' only with no fixed timeline. The exception was a handful of MY23 demonstrators available for sale, and only 3 of those in this state in the 'Style' version (which I wanted). Built Sept '22 and arrived in Melbourne November '22, presumably to be replaced by '23 builds eventually. I went in to view one and bought it on the spot, fully optioned with Tech and Luxury packs, plus panoramic sunroof. It had been a showroom car, not used for demo drives, and had only 140km on it having been driven briefly the dealership manager. So effectively I have a brand new car with a reasonable discount on the new price because it was technically a demo. I think I struck lucky!

My Octavia journey: 2021. mid December: ordered SEL (style/elegance) 2022. April: when I had asked - no info At this point gave up receiving it in summer, so was not planning to ping dealer too much, and accepted that will have it for the 2023 summer season. 2022. December: when I had asked - dealer informs that dealer requested to prioritize order in november. 2023. mid January: dealer informs that order appears in skodas system to be built around end of february. 2023. beginning of March - when I had asked - not produced. no additional info available. 2023. March 14th - dealer informs that VIN is assigned 2023. March 15th - dealer informs that car has been built. 2023. March 24th - dealer informs that car has arrived. 2023. March 28th - pickup from dealer

But, hey, you've minimised that crucial "arch gap" that the idiot babies hate so much, now all it needs is some 18's with rubber bands fitted!

Update, Finally got my calipers refurbished to my requirements, Just a final application of C5 wheels armour required prior to fitting. I've probably got 50 hours in these and Circa £200 in components Still have caliper mounting bolts to source then repeat for the ones I remove

Hello!!! Today will be the day...the car arrived to the dealer...need to put the plates and today (i hope) i will get it... 13 month and 7 days after order... Regards!

I'm currently in the long process of returning mine as close to stock as possible, it's got a map which I'll keep, egr delete etc but the previous owner did so much stupid stuff to it that im redoing. Gonna probably take a year or two to get it exactly where I want it but suspension is being sorted soon, and the front end is being returned to stock!

I thought the I'd uploaded this! I took ownership in July last year. So far I have nothing to moan about. 🤞👍

Two days old.....

The oil temp starts being displayed from 50°C. Below this temp, you only get "---". It's only a question of sensor cost. Indeed it's hard to get a sensor with reliable calibration from -40°C (in cold soaked conditions) to +120°C (in very hot conditions). Otherwise the sensor cost is not really compliant with automotive industry cost targets.

All fixed. Had to remove the panel again. Turned out that the cable wasn't properly seated in the lock. Turning it around allowed an extra 15mm in the cable which solved the problem. Thanks for all the help. Justin

VRS is already lowered as standard so I wouldn't go much more than 25mm, what kills the ride is slamming them and fitting bigger rims, which is exactly what the "all show and no go" brigade want.

50'C and above is normal for these sensors

That is not a PàD but either a Stop! or a Cédez le Passage! (give way) if it has lines, it is a changement de priorité and will probably be accompanied by a sign saying just that, the reason for the change will be that the previous PàD was not recognised by too many drivers and there had been accidents. This is not having a go but I am going to use your words as they describe the ignorance of PàD to most foreign motorists very well and I include myself in that, it took me several years living here for it to finally sink in an all its detail and even now I still get caught out. "you're happily driving along the riverside road when suddenly one of the side turnings coming out of the town centre has prioité à droite" That is exactly what people do, they assume that because they are on a straight main road that traffic from side roads have to give way, that is not the case, nor will you have a sign telling you to stop as you mention above (that wasn't a PàD), you have to slow down and look very carefully at every single road joining from the right for evidence of a solid white line telling them to stop (which will likely be worn through and practically invisible) or be able to see their Stop! sign 25m before the junction which most of the time is obscured by trees or buildings. If you see any of these then you can continue without slowing down and being prepared to do an emergency stop should a vehicle or cyclist take "their road" from the right, because having priority means it is their road, you may be on a large Route Nationale long and straight, a Roman road but if the single farm track on the right has priorité then your road effectively ends with a Stop! (but no sign) at that junction, think of it as you joining another road on a bend of infinite radius at a tangent which of course is geometrically impossible. PàD applies everywhere unless there are signs indicating otherwise, even I rarely notice them and when I do the danger is I may have missed the second one showing the end of the deristricted zone, you have to drive constantly watching for any roads to the right and trying to see if they have Stop! markings or signs, in towns where there are buildings right up to the footpath & you know that its a PàD or cant see the markings you have to slow right down to walking pace to avoid an accident when a car hidden from view takes their priorité and 99% do unless they have in the past been T-boned by a holidaymaker. I am blind in the left eye, on some junctions where I take my PàD at an acute angle I cannot see if a vehicle is approaching and going to griller le stop I just say Inshallah and drive straight through without even turning my head like most French drivers do.

The facelift model came out in 2017 and has split front headlights. The Octavia MK3 petrol VRS 230HP came out in 2015, so is pre-facelift. All of the Octavia MK3 petrol VRS cars have 340x30mm front discs. On the Octavia MK3 VRS it's easy to tell what size the rear discs are because the ventilated rear discs are 310x22mm and the solid rear discs are 272x10mm. Octavia MK3 petrol VRS engines 2.0 TSI RS 162 kW (RS 220) 2013- CHHB (EA888-Gen3) 1984 ccm, I4, 16V DOHC, TSI, turbocharged 162 kW (220 PS; 217 hp) at 4500-6200 rpm 350 Nm. (258 lb•ft) at 1550-4400 rpm 6-speed manual (MQ350), FWD 248 km/h (154 mph) 6.8 6.2 / 45.6 / 37.9 142 2.0 TSI RS 162 kW (RS 220) 2013- CHHB (EA888-Gen3) 1984 ccm, I4, 16V DOHC, TSI, turbocharged 162 kW (220 PS; 217 hp) at 4500-6200 rpm 350 Nm. (258 lb•ft) at 1550-4400 rpm 6-speed DSG (DQ250), FWD 245 km/h (152 mph) 6.9 6.4 / 44.1 / 36.7 149 2.0 TSI RS 169 kW (RS 230) 2015- CHHA (EA888-Gen3) 1984 ccm, I4, 16V DOHC, TSI, turbocharged 169 kW (230 PS; 227 hp) at 4700-6230 rpm 350 N⋅m (258 lbf⋅ft) at 1,500–4,600 rpm 6-speed manual (MQ350), FWD 250 km/h / 247 km/h (155 mph / 153 mph) 6.7 6.2 / 45.6 / 37.9 142 2.0 TSI RS 169 kW (RS 230) 2015- CHHA (EA888-Gen3) 1984 ccm, I4, 16V DOHC, TSI, turbocharged 169 kW (230 PS; 227 hp) at 4700-6230 rpm 350 N⋅m (258 lbf⋅ft) at 1,500–4,600 rpm 6-speed DSG (DQ250), FWD 249 km/h / 245 km/h (154 mph / 152 mph) 6.8 6.4 / 44.1 / 36.7 149 2.0 TSI RS 180 kW (RS 245) 2017- DLBA (EA888-Gen3) 1984 ccm, I4, 16V DOHC, TSI, turbocharged 180 kW (245 PS; 241 hp) at 4,700-6,200 rpm 370 N⋅m (273 lbf⋅ft) at 1,600–4,300 rpm 6-speed manual (MQ350), FWD 250 km/h (155 mph) 6.6 / 6.7 6.6 / 42.8 / 35.64 150 2.0 TSI RS 180 kW (RS 245) 2017- DLBA (EA888-Gen3) 1984 ccm, I4, 16V DOHC, TSI, turbocharged 180 kW (245 PS; 241 hp) at 4,700-6,200 rpm 370 N⋅m (273 lbf⋅ft) at 1,600–4,300 rpm 6-speed DSG (DQ250), FWD 250 km/h (155 mph) 6.6 / 6.7 6.4 / 44.1 / 36.7 146 2.0 TSI RS 180 kW (RS 245) 2017- DLBA (EA888-Gen3) 1984 ccm, I4, 16V DOHC, TSI, turbocharged 180 kW (245 PS; 241 hp) at 4,700-6,200 rpm 370 N⋅m (273 lbf⋅ft) at 1,600–4,300 rpm 7-speed DSG (DQ381), FWD 250 km/h (155 mph) 6.6 / 6.7 6.4 / 44.1 / 36.7 146 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Škoda_Octavia

If there is a leaking injector then the excess diesel can get past the piston rings and then into the sump, diluting the oil.

Something that you should learn about if you're planning on driving in France. Actually, it'd be a good idea to learn a considerable more French as well. Who knows, you might actually enjoy talking to the locals....😄 However, in the meantime.... https://www.drive-france.com/faqs/get-your-priorities-right/

Bought some new wheels and tyres. Such a good difference to the ride with these Eagle F1 Asymmetric 6's. Went for 245/40/19 instead of 235/40/19 and you can feel it 👍

Good to know about the rivet. Thanks. Hopefully someone can let me know about the fuse to save my neighbours' sanity!

Think people don’t appreciate how good these are in standard form.

That's duly noted 👍 My days of "slammed" cars are about 20 years in the past anyway 🤣

You'll have to forgive me in starting this thread late and writing most of this thread (to date) almost a year and a quarter after purchasing my Mk1 vRS TDI. Its been a journey... Without further adieu, welcome to the thread in which I'll be keeping updates and build progress on my own 2006 mk1 fabia vRS. As a bit of an explanation for some of the silly financial decisions, this project is born from nostalgia and as my affordable dream car. Not a wholly impressive one to most, it's what I wanted though, probably stemming from my first car. That was an X reg mk1 fabia 1.4 16v in cayenne orange and what a first car it was... Until it threw a rod that is... So, after trawling the depths of Facebook Marketplace I came across a fairly well presented vRS. It was advertised as completely standard (we'll get to that) and the only thing detracting from the car was n/s quarter panel damage in the ad. I'm not going to lie, it was a shed. It was a prime breaker. Although it hadn't had any parts of significant value added, so would have been harvested for what straight panels it had, and crushed. The battery was flat, door cards fell away when doors shut, central locking and windows didn't work, it shook like mad no matter whether it was idling or not, the passenger headlight was not attached to any part of the car, and it was as clean as your local public toilet. One eyebrow raising ridealong later i was sold, I'm a good boy and don't drive cars without insurance, nor did I want to drive it after learning it was re-mapped. But, I fell in love with the car and the surprising lack of rust on it... (Ps, it was also the first fabia vRS I'd gone to see in person as well. I can hear the eye rolls from here) So once I got my hands on it, I had to apply for the logbook (as the previous 4 owners, or so I'm told, never bothered applying for a new one... speeding tickets aplenty I presume) and I gave it a thorough wash. In the interest of readability I'll list the issues I found: Windscreen cracked O/S zone A Snapped O/S engine mount (not the bushing... Engine was listing a solid 40 degrees) Airbox screws all missing, aftermarket panel filter loose in housing. Probably doing about as much as using a sieve to catch water Loose engine cover rubbing on boost pipe Obligatory plastic boost pipe leaks Dent (almost a crater, had done a check before purchase and is cat D, wasn't advertised as such 🚩) Tyres, had Michelin pilot sport 3's on the front but one had a nasty sidewall cut, rears mismatched and cracking Alloys all curbed, heavily corroded and no centre caps Rear bumper cracked/ scuffed Front bumper damaged n/s entire front corner scuffed Drivers door dented from previous owner reversing close to a wall with the door open O/S fog light blown (what a PITA that was) Usual rips in seat bolsters and the seat foam was that far gone on the passenger side, the seat frame was visibly protruding No parcel shelf More fag ash behind the door cards than in a wetherspoons ashtray Drivers door loom broken, door lock microswitch toast Passenger window regulator and leaking rear door regs No brake fluid cap Various creaks and knocks Poorly ran sub wiring and no sub to be seen As a note, that list isn't exhaustive and I was fully aware of most of those issues or as to what I could expect to find further down the road... Or so I thought

I have one too and also a recent addition a twin axle dropside Ifor, both are very old, 33 years for one of them, the other not far short but aside from having been abused by builders all that time with zero maintenance the important bits, the chassis, axles & springs were all as new, brakes & couplings had all been worn out, seized and fallen off decades ago, it didn't cost a fortune to bring them back like new and they were worth it. The dropside is I think 520kg bare pluse the dropsides, ramps, spare wheel etc, both of them I have derated to maximum 500kg laden weight (go figure!) so as to avoid registration, insurance etc which would be impossible as there were no EU conformity certificates back then. I know what you mean, I still have to do that to a degree in my Yeti but a DSG would be a really smart choice if the clutches can take it, if they are oil bath ones then I can see no problem, there will be little load due to the torque multiplication in first gear and you will be revving a lot less than I have to.

Pleased it’s sorted. Did you have it overfilled by the same dealer? If so I presume they didn’t charge you today? In any event, that’s a school person error; no vehicle should ever be overfilled in 2023, especially by a main dealer - the damage to the engine and ancillaries can be significant.

Good news, so you are two steps closer. The VWSkoda 'Owner's Manual' aren't the best but it does make sense to have the aeration in the bit about air-con. My wife would say you had a "man-look". 😉 In your working life were you never told to RtFM, or like the electricians we employed had no experience of doing so, in the 'Index' 'Sliding/tilting roof' which takes you to 'Electric sliding/tilting roof', on to 'Electric sliding/tilting roof with solar cells', on to 'Climatronic (automatic air conditioning system)'. As with many things not a push one button and it's done and good practice for VCDS use. 😄 More good news for you, I know nothing with VCDS so can't help(?) with it's use but there are plenty here that do and are happy to help so do check with them before using the system for guidance. As always, and for viewers that don't understand old men's' banter, I hope you get things sorted to your satisfaction (or better), cheers.

Hadn't found that thread though toot, so thanks for the link! Interesting to see your experiences with the Jimny aswell. I was all set to get a later auto for the purpose for shifting the trailer and using locally, but ended up discounting it on the basis I'd have to effectively run it with the front axle de-activated to enable it to pull up in 4 Low but only driving the rear wheels for fear of wrecking the centre diff. Dug up a pic of the "situation" here. Even this doesn't give a true appreciation of how ridiculously steep it is!

The Yeti will be fine with a 6 speed wet clutch DSG & good tyres, just put it in D and off you go up that hill and round those corners. Is your old Pajero a manual or Auto? http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/434939-towing-with-a-yeti

Alloys look amazing in their first few years. I've actually spent 3 full days refurbishing these with mainly sandpaper, some power tools. The amount of labor and time to put into making each section look good, you really need to be committed. And once you've started, you've then set yourself up to have to finish it. This is a front wheel alloy before.. This is actually a different rear wheel alloy after completing the bulk of sanding.. Anybody who has the same or similar problems and wondering why? I realized its very likely the heat from the brake discs, the front discs are fairly bigger on the VRS models anyway.. not entirely sure about other models. Both front alloys were in a lot worse condition than the rear. Not only this I've seen water does get underneath the film and start to eat away. So regardless. Your alloys are screwed! I don't want to say that Skoda can't paint their alloys properly, I've read it happens to a lot of these type of wheels. I'm going to repaint them Racing silver with VHT brand, very high temperature alloy wheel paints, and VHT gloss clear coat. Supposed with withstand approx 120 degrees centigrade. Using a strong primer to start. Will see what happens.. All pretty much complete ready to respray.. Front wheels on the left are clearly worse.

it will likely make them appear more since as part of the sound deadening you will strip / unclip things apart and then put them together. there is a chance that a part or two will not be clipped back together as well as originally. then you will have less overall noice so the squeeks would be more audible However, I haven't noticed it on my car. Probably the plastic parts settle into their place after a day or two. The squeeks I was getting were from the mid console box cover and on hot days from the wheel drive dial plastic glass. I disassembled the mid console cover and put thin strips of the floor underlay in it and the squeeking is gone. The same can be done with the plastic glass but I left it as is. Absolutely no regrets about having done the sound deafening...

^^^ my subjective opinion - adding sound deadening improves isolation from external and road noise, but makes brighter noises from suspension, like whole car body started work as one big woofer that about my previous MY16 220ps Style in current MY23 280ps L&K sound deadening isn't done yet, which got quieter suspension, but hugely louder engine - TSI sounds louder than TDI 😞

Indicated 90 covers a pretty big span of reality, so yes, still possible I would think.

@AlfonsM you are right. Incoming call is always shown in the VC even if you don't have telephone selected.

with regards to using Android Auto wireless with ur existing setup - i highly recommend the AAWireless device. i've been using for a years now its great. no issues and so convenient. it stays plugged into the car's usb port. ur phone connects to it wirelessly, each time u start the car. my AAWireless fits nicely in the phonebox, and i can even close the lid.

Yes, for a 2016 octavia w/out kessy

Yes, not a single one of them will give a flying Four-X 😆 whether you have any stickers at all or what they display. It's simply something that people who like to worry and jump through hoops become obsessed with. Same goes for spare bulb sets, beam deflectors, reflective gilets, breath test kits, spare eyeglasses, speed alerts on satnavs etc etc etc. Sticking to the speed limits especially the average speed camera areas, now that is something worth being concerned about. Priorité à droite, now that really is something to be very very aware of, at best it could cost you a lot of money, at worst a wrecked car, hospitalisation or worse still yet that gets so little attention compared to silly rules that are never enforced.

I switch to summer tires VEGA 19"

1896 is available as "standalone" update, I have not seen 1900 available, so this is at factory/OTA only at the moment. It might land possibly on the dealer network as a standalone in the future.

I reckon we’re broadly in agreement that there is too much poor driving on the roads and too much aggressive behaviour by drivers, as well as over zealous, self righteous self-enforcers. And yes, mobile apps are not the way to go. If the amateur video footage is do poor I don’t understand why it is that police forces invite submissions. For example https://www.hampshire.police.uk/police-forces/hampshire-constabulary/areas/hants-snap/hantsnap/ Perhaps dash cam footage is more suitable evidence.

Finally the car is here! Can't wait to get the keys. 🥳

https://www.drive2.ru/l/635814864945679275/ Look at my entry, everything is detailed there, translate it into English. Profile 0 is when the car is off. As soon as you turn on the ignition, the backlight changes to the last drive select

I'm assuming there is no 'emergency release' option on the Tesla then and they don't unlock the cable once fully charged so it can be removed and re-used? (if not hey should be mandated to do so under Construction and Use Regs).

This - to me - sounds like the window drop feature used on cars with frameless windows. The window tucks up under the seal when closed. To open or close the door though, the window needs to be dropped. A completely pointless feature on the Superb, which has a frame.

MarkyG82, By "ahead of the prescribed periods" I mean that I change the engine oil + filter around every 9,000 miles and the get the DSG oil + filter changed around 38,000 miles. Same with brake pads. I don't wait until they are wafer thin. Tyres, I tend to change them when they are at about 3 mm tread depth. I believe in preventative maintenance. At the first signs of the battery getting towards the end of its life I change it. Mind you, I've only changed it once. I've been told that I am throwing money away but I always err on the safe side.

I had a red Powerflex insert fitted to my Mk5 Golf GT Sport 170 TDI which was remapped to c. 210 bhp. It lasted 3 days before it was removed again. It was awful, particularly when reversing. My wife drove it and said, "You've ruined your car!" Much more successful was the anti-lift kit which I had fitted at the same time. That kept the front end down under hard acceleration and reduced the understeer.

There is a reason why void bushes were invented and adopted. There is a reason why rubber to metal "Silentbloc" bushes were invented and adopted. There is a reason why after more than 100 years they are still used on every new vehicle on every articulating suspension joint. Using polybushes on a road car is like stepping back 100 years, more in fact because the solid bushings back then had lubrication nipples.

Just count the spokes Themisto have 7 pairs, Luxon have 9 pairs 👍

@tata_na_kvadrat insta 👋