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The plastic tab on the cubby cracked on mine as I was accessing the OBD2 regularly to setup and run the Torque app. Currently has several folds of gorilla or "power-duck" tape performing the same function.

I flogged my VRS to buy my 'dream car' which turned out to be a nightmare, I was given the opportunity to buy back my VRS but the guy I sold it to smoked in the car which was a real shame. I'm now knocking about in Trevors 1.8T fantasy green 'comfort spec' Fabia that he built and I can't fault it. I desperately need something more practical having just had our first child but I can't bring myself to sell it - it's the best car I've ever had! I've used it for trips to Cornwall, Scotland, Isle of Skye, I've had a Tentbox on the roof of it, it's been my daily driver for almost 2 years, it's brilliant, I absolutely love the thing! People at work think I'm crackers and ask if I've got another car "so is that green thing just your work car". I'll certainly be keeping mine on the road for as long as possible!

I took another attempt to check the cables, and while driving I noticed the windshield washer appeared to be not working too. First I went out of tune, but then realised it was a perfect clue. The reason couldn't be in the tailgate cables, but rather something with fuses. And taking this clue I came to a fuse I didn't pay attention at all: 42 (rear doors, headlight washers, windshield washers). That was it! Fixing this fuse everything, including the rear wiper and the lock started to work again!

I spent ages looking for mine I did own one in black which I sold after putting 100 k on it and instantly regretted it,then I spent ages trying find a standard decent on , in the end found this guy owned from new garages all it life and did less than 3k a year in it . Not the best colour but still like it.

I have just found a work around for the climate Control turning it's self off sync everytime you stop the car. If you just use the passenger controls instead of the drivers ones. It works exactly like sync? Just thought I would share.

Hi guys, Didnt think I would become so addicted modifying my RS 2.0tsi so much lol. Now remapped to 320HP and 450nm torque with Eventuri air intake and after opf straight pipe exhausts only with a anti drone resonator. See pic. Now looking into downpipe replacement with sport cat and 2 mufflers with valves custom made and custom remap. Still surprised about the racing line figures actually. 510nm.. Anyone already going more than 350hp so far? For me it would be a stage 2 remap. Direct fit upgrade turbo seems not to be available yet. All your feedback is welcome!

Thankyou as ever for your kind words Graham. I have been fitting towbars and regularly towing vehicles for close to 50 years, I know what works for me and I don't try to tell others what to do, they like me can make their own choices based on their own needs. It would be nice if others were able to do the same rather than posting insults and awarding groan emojis.

Already at home…delivered about 30 minutes…My wife drove it …maybe i will try it on saturday…🤪

The cubby on my one wouldn't stay closed, I've since removed it. Easier access to the OBD port anyway, which given the nature of my car, has definitely made my life easier... I can now find out quicker what's broken!

Best drive the cars and maybe buy by condition, service history etc & what you think once driving them. If the 1.2tsi or 1.0 TSI has 110ps then that does not mean just a city car IMO. 4 cylinders vs 3 cylinders will be down to what you think when driving them. The difference with a 1.0 TSI to look for might be is it with or without a GPF and does that matter. Anything over 5 years is due a Cam Belt change according to Skoda / VW UK recommendations / guidelines.

1. Timing belt on a 1.4 2. This opens a can of worms that can get emotional replies on here - Skoda UK say 5 years but other importers say longer intervals and VAG even say 'lifetime'. 3. With a 1.4 I suspect you have a DQ200, which does not have any service intervals.

I'm currently in the long process of returning mine as close to stock as possible, it's got a map which I'll keep, egr delete etc but the previous owner did so much stupid stuff to it that im redoing. Gonna probably take a year or two to get it exactly where I want it but suspension is being sorted soon, and the front end is being returned to stock!

I thought the I'd uploaded this! I took ownership in July last year. So far I have nothing to moan about. 🤞👍

Here's the bodywork workshop manuals if it helps https://vwts.ru/sk_octavia3_5e.html#kuzov

Thanks for doing so good resident member whose responses do not comply with his forum status…..

Furnish me with engine code or VIN and I can give you pin numbers at engine ECU tomorrow.

Easily solved ....

Hi Jr rs, what you have written here in the forum is reflection of who you are. So I do thank you for your statement. Nobody asked your views about this? whatever has been mentioned by ApertureS has been taken on board and noted. Please don’t worry about others too much with your premature mind? If you need to do so; please look in the mirror and whoever you see in the mirror worry about him.😂 Moreover, I am clever enough to achieve a first class masters degree in Pharmacy.

I would expect to be paying the tariff for the time i am getting the energy. I did speak to a hybrid driver that was on a tethered AC in Dundee on the side of a Raid and got fined £10 for overstaying as the charger shows as a Rapid even though he was only getting 3.6 kWh and had a 12 kWh battery. That is a Dundee Council accounts error and CPS told him not their problem or error.

Ah, that probably makes life easier! From this website http://www.evo-blr.com/evo-pro-skoda-octavia-5e-premium-car-entertainment-options-octavia-5e/#:~:text=Skoda have installed large 6.5,speakers and a 1.5″ tweeter. it suggests that the 165mm would be the correct size, but I again would advise measuring yourself.

Not the best way to wire a tow bar, a dedicated wiring kit and reprogramming of the ECU is the way to do it. Reprogramming gives you the towing stability control, and disables the sensors when in reverse and a trailer is connected.

Just bear in mind a petrol Mk3 Monte Carlo might be quite a bit different to a Mk1 TDI VRS whether 1 or 1.2. Be interesting to read how the Mk3s compare with the Mk1 (allowing for age/mileage wear/tear/abuse differences. Good luck again.

@Smiler100 I split your post from the for sale topic. It’s a good question in its own right. changing tyre profile depth (40) is possible. Just be aware the overall rolling size, as that will alter many things inc Speedo. A set of 18” might afford more profile and a bit more cushioning. problem is, that’s all 4 wheels and tyres and far more expense.

I like my Skodas tbh lol. people on the fabia vrs page think there problematic I’ve never had an issue as I have the advantage of working in a workshop and can regularly check it over easily on a ramp.. will defiantly update on what I think once I’ve test driven both

If you want not to be taking your work home surely you would be looking at getting a Japanese car with a proper Japanese engine, possibly older than 2016 to outlast a 2016 Fabia Mk3 with a lot less hassle. If not as I put other might contribute here or more information in other threads. With just two people in the car my wife's Mk3 1.2 90 engine goes well enough though we do not get the miles-per-gallon others say they get, but it is a petrol engine, so. Good luck and if no one else already has perhaps you could report back on your finding between the 1.0, 3-pot and 1.2 4-pot.

Not something silly like residual oil in the exhaust? How many miles have you driven after replacing all the bits? Or is it pouring out?

Thanks . The only time I go to the stealers is when the cars under warranty or for a recall! My independent family run garage are invested in the quality of their work and have always been reasonable on price. Thanks. Gives some reassurance

2023 Ford Puma ST have 170ps now from 3 cylinder 1.0 Eco-boost petrol engines and with 7 speed dual clutch auto's. But they have learned over the years from their failures and acted on them and kept developing and evolving. VW Group can maybe learn more from them now that they are partners.

All good advice. Good point, you'd not be buying the 3-cylinder 110 as just as a town runabout or glorified shopping trolley but it is pushed more and possibly be pushed more depending on the driver and car's use and going from a diesel and VRS. My wife's 1.2, 4-cylinder, 90 has far from the sweetest engine bay noises I've heard and I'm used to 1960s and 1970s British Leyland products, I think I'd be too fragile for a VW 3-cylinder. Plus modern cars are so heavy in themselves, when I've driven my wife's Fabia with three passengers there's a very noticeable difference to just driver and one passenger but that's with 90 engine and standard (not-so-robust) SE suspension (front at least) on 15" wheels (14" wheels and tyres might have be better). Plenty of threads here about the 1.2 TSI 110 in Mk3s and some on 1.0, 3-cylinder and hopefully others might be along with their input.

So we got the car late last year from a Pullman Skoda it was ex-demo and we got two services as a package. It went for the first in February at the same dealer and yes the oil was changed. They do provide a cost breakdown but not specifics on the exact quantities. Only that it was full. While I was sat at the cafe next to the service desk I overheard someone drop their car in for exactly the same issue (not sure which model). He was given the same response I was, maybe its software! Now this seems to be a standard answer nowadays for an easy get out. When I went to pick up the car I was tight for time so I just needed to get on my way. There wasn't anything near an apology for the inconvenience but it something I will follow up with the Garage. So we got the car late last year from a Pullman Skoda it was ex-demo and we got two services as a package. It went for the first in February at the same dealer and yes the oil was changed. They do provide a cost breakdown but not specifics on the exact quantities. Only that it was full. While I was sat at the cafe next to the service desk I overheard someone drop their car in for exactly the same issue (not sure which model). He was given the same response I was, maybe its software! Now this seems to be a standard answer nowadays for an easy get out. When I went to pick up the car I was tight for time so I just needed to get on my way. There wasn't anything near an apology for the inconvenience but it something I will follow up with the Garage.

You need to unpack the Zip to Desktop, or any other temporary folder. Then you need to copy all the folders and files to the root of the USB drive So for example F:\MIB31_xxxxxxxxx, not F:\OI_P41_EU_202025_Offline_Update folder name I am sure someone will tell you soon the update to map will not work, perhaps it wont (also there is no "update" map button, it does it in the background after a few hours if it does indeed load)

My Octavia is a MY18 with J as the 10th digit. It had 10 colours from factory with these modules installed: Address 09: Cent. Elect. (J519) Labels:. 5Q0-937-08X-V2.clb Part No SW: 5Q0 937 084 CQ HW: 5Q0 937 084 CG Component: BCM MQBAB H H36 0253 Address 19: CAN Gateway (J533) Labels:| 3Q0-907-530-V1.clb Part No SW: 3Q0 907 530 L HW: 3Q0 907 530 C Component: GW MQB High 436 4326 This was not enough for automatic mode, I had to flash and parameterise the CAN gateway to become: Address 19: CAN Gateway (J533) Labels:| 3Q0-907-530-V1.clb Part No SW: 3Q0 907 530 Q HW: 3Q0 907 530 C Component: GW MQB High 436 4344 It's been fine since

installed 2 oem montecarlo tail! Now I order oem bulb holder for this tail, see next if that help Thanks

Is it a mk3 octavia on a 2013 plate or a very late mk2? if the mk3, you will need to get the water pump checked as there is a sleeve on it that can stick. Budget for a new water pump, cambelt/pulleys/tensioner etc as it’s all driven by that. Sadly not uncommon. possibly just checking a cold car and looking in the coolant bottle to make sure the silica bag in the coolant header bottle hasn’t split and blocked things up too.

Think people don’t appreciate how good these are in standard form.

I have the same box, it's sealed for life. Personally I wouldn't change it, you have a taxi driver on here that stated he's covered 200k without an oil change.

Hey, Sure did, size fits absolutely fine no rubbing they are fitted on a 280 estate. There is a difference in comfort, feels a lot smoother. First impressions on the Sport Contact 7's they are impressive, only driven in the dry so far. Could just be the new tyres feeling, but they have a huge amount of grip, steering feels very sharp and controlled, braking is hugely impressive. They roll nicely, cabin noise quieter than previous. A huge difference vs the previous Falkens. Early days but seems very good.

If it's intermittent on just the one, sounds like a dodgy connection/loose wire. Might be worth looking at the workshop manuals and seeing where the module that controls all the light strips is, then working your way back to the door from there.

Depends where you live and which cities you visit. I gather all UK cities ULEZs are OK with Euro 6 diesel but there was rumour that Bristol was going ban or very heavily charge any diesel. Some cities in Europe still plan to ban diesels completely ie Paris, Madrid and Athen in Europe. I not sure Bristol introduced an inner inner are where diesels would be banned like this proposed map below. There is a massively glut of Euro5 diesels becoming pariah cars and their values falling away sharply. But this is just a fore taste of ICE cars in general plummiting in value as EVs become massively cheaper on year as the manufacturing process, particularly Tesla just bring the price down and down every few months so that the comparative overall running costs just blow ICE cars out of the water. The considerable portion of high mileage drivers ie those that do well over 10k a year and are forced to work to 25p a mile running cost can virtually only do this with an EV as virtually only the likes of Dacia can get close to being able to be run for 25p a mile whereas a properly run EV can also get down to these levels I reckon.

Collected him (yup, called him Shrek) today. Didn't have enough time to go for a decent photo venue before darkness so the border Aire had to do.

The is the one I fitted to my Mk5 Golf. https://www.awesomegti.com/shop-by-car/audi/a3-8p/whiteline-anti-lift-kit-golf-mk5-mk6/ However, as far as I can see, there's nothing available for MQB platform cars as yet. This link which doesn't open is listed on Google as offering: Control Arm Lower-Inner Rear Anti Lift Bush Kit ... Anti Lift & Caster Increase. ... Sport Spring & Damper Kit -MQB Platform AWD: Golf 7 R. £109.50. https://www.vag-performance.co.uk/product/control-arm-lower-inner-rear-anti-lift-bush-kit/

it really depends on the wheel size and spec of the car and what the roads in your country are made off. it seems that those of us in the UK, Ireland and Australia, where roads are made of small pebbles joined by bits of asphalt are complaining the most about the road noise. When I drove the car on French motorways, where the surface is as smooth as the skin on my balls, there was next to road noise. Drive it in Ireland and on some stretches it was deafening at 120km

Hi everyone, First of all a special thanks to @silver1011, @skomaz and @2010OctaviaScout, You guys saved me alot of money as it appeared to be the hose that caused the issue. The locking mechanism / connection mechanism for the hose was a strange one. I had to reattach it like 3-4 times for it to attach properly, and so I can actually understand why my mechanic though it was attached but then popped off again. So after a few attempts I was able to attach it properly and the car ran perfectly fine again. No glow plug light. Engine light was still there so I took it back to my mechanic and he cleared fault codes. Haven't had a single light afterwards! So again thank you so much all of you - really saved my weekend. All the best!

Blimey the sun came out today. So managed a quick wash of the car and also fitted new rear mud flaps.

Sorry, I am confused - is the right light unit new and different from the left which is original(?). I have no idea what the difference is with Monte Carlo lights without looking it up or if the regulations for rear lights in Israel are different to the UK. Sorry but it is beyond me, even if you put up high definition photos of each side I would not see or know or be able to tell if the wiring and soldering is correct and good, if you are sure you have done that all correctly then I am at a loss - unless, if you have one side LED and the other side not perhaps that could confuse the computer but I would have thought a warning would show or error code on scan tool. If you have fitted cheaply made or faulty LED or diode I do not know how that would effect the lighting. Sorry but you need someone with more knowledge than me, luckily that is many people.

Does your car have electronically adjustable shock absorbers? What are the OEM part numbers of your original front and rear springs and your original front and rear shock absorbers? Which Bilstein B6 and Monroe shock absorbers are correct for your car? If you contact Bilstein and Monroe directly, maybe they can tell you by reference to your car's VIN number. Maybe these rear shock absorbers are correct for your car, but you would need to check with Bilstein and Monroe directly? I can't see any OEM part numbers listed against the Bilstein B6 20-267537 rear shock absorbers, but there's a long list of OEM part numbers shown against the Monroe C1521S rear shock absorbers, as listed below. Note, that these two rear shock absorbers might not be correct for your car. You would have to check. I'm not sure Bilstein B6 shock absorbers would be ideal for lowered ride height springs. That's normally Bilstein B8, and Bilstein B8 are not electronically adjustable. So if you've got electronically adjustable shock absorbers, maybe go for standard ride height springs? You could always select a slightly stiffer standard ride height spring if you are finding your current springs too soft. Perhaps try two weight range stiffer rear springs? Together with top quality shock absorbers such as Bilstein B6 you should notice quick a difference. Bear in mind, that if you fit difference springs to standard such as lowered ride height springs, the shock absorbers that are correct for your original springs might not be ideal for your different springs. Bilstein B6 20-267537 rear shock absorbers https://www.autodoc.co.uk/bilstein/9166711 Monroe C1521S rear shock absorbers OE 5Q0513045AM — VW OE 5Q0513045AE — VW OE 5Q0513045AH — VW OE 5Q0513045BB — VW OE 3Q0513045AB — VW OE 3Q0513045AP — VW OE 3Q0513045AQ — VW OE 3Q0513045AR — VW OE 3Q0513045AS — VW OE 5Q0513045AB — VW OE 5Q0513045AQ — VW OE 5Q0513045AS — VW OE 5Q0513045AT — VW OE 5Q0513045BC — VW OE 5QA513045C — VW OE 5QF513045B — VW OE 5Q0513045AK — VW / SEAT OE 5Q0513045AJ — VW / SEAT OE 5Q0513045AP — VW / SEAT OE 5QF513045G — VW / SEAT OE 5QF513045H — VW / SEAT OE 3Q0513045AC — VW / SKODA OE 3Q0513045AA — VW / SKODA OE 3Q0513045AJ — VW / SKODA OE 3Q0513045Q — VW / SKODA OE 5Q0513045AN — VW / SKODA OE 5Q0513045BD — VW / SKODA OE 5QF513045C — VW / SKODA OE 3Q0513045AD — SKODA OE 5Q0513045BS — SKODA OE 5Q0513045BT — SKODA OE 5Q0513045BN — AUDI / CUPRA OE 5Q0513045BA — VW / SKODA / SEAT https://www.autodoc.co.uk/monroe/19151782

See where you're coming from, but perhaps a little harsh. I've carried loads of stuff in mine which wouldn't have fitted in the hatchback model. A totally flat load area, with rear seat backs folding properly level would be much better, but what I have is better than the hatch. How I miss my Dad's old Volvo 145...

Changes made: ST XA Coilovers fitted, lowered to remove that arch gap but not slammed to a stupid height. Ride comfort has remained superb which I’m really pleased about. Only other changes are my Motec wheels which I think has really improved the look over a standard car and a front badge change courtesy of SuperSkoda.

Picked it up yesterday, now the slow process of bedding it in begins 😬