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Welcome. There are a couple of threads asking much the same in the last couple of weeks, worth looking down the pages. So not much servicing showing there, Oil & Inspection Service. These says since 2020 they went to that and Extended Scope @ 3 years then each 2. So what actually has it had, New Spark plugs, Air Filter, Brake fluid replaced, Pollen filter, any record of that? If not assume not carried out as extras.

A service from a good independent would cost about £250, or less if you do it yourself. If your paying top dollar for the car then haggle for it. If its a steal I'd stump for it myself.

Thanks for your response. I'll contact the Skoda dealer where we bought the car. A little annoying if it's not 'fitted' as the driver's manual & the brochure both list it as being a standard feature of the car. Although neither my wife or me have any problem performing hill starts the old fashioned way by balancing the clutch & manual handbrake.

I’m as sure as I can be from looking at the Audi RNSE firmware (which has also suffered loss of its TMC service) that TMC elsewhere in Europe is completely unaffected. I have a lot of customers based there using my updated RNSE firmware and not a single one (other than those in the UK) are reporting loss of service. In fact I even switched the firmware to listen to INRIX, and the missing TMC messages have reappeared. However the indicated locations are complete and utter garbage since the location tables used by Trafficmaster are completely different from INRIX as they are competing commercial suppliers.

If the existing is say AGM and 68Ah rated, and new is AGM and 70Ah, I wouldn't worry if you cannot perform the adaption process. The car will take it's own measurements and learn within a few journeys.

Have a read of this for Stop/Start engines, if you need to change battery you need to be aware of this.

Make sure to leave the car settled for at least 2 hours, ideally overnight so cold. Then test the voltage at the battery terminals as mentioned by @PetrolDave

shout out to @Breezy_Pete for the help i should be able to get meself sorted now

Glowplugs definitely don’t heat up the engine block, they heat the air in the cylinder, which is only useful when the engine is rotating else you would be heating air for no reason. They would have to be running for a very long time to heat the entire engine block. old diesel glowplugs took a bit of time to get up to temperature, newer plugs are almost instantly hot now and reach much higher temperatures. It sounds more like you simply have a low battery than a preheat issue. the solution for an extremely cold climate is either a dedicated block heater which are normally mains powered or a parking/webasto heater which is a small fuel fired engine that heats your cars coolant system up before you get to the car

VCDS/ODIS Service How to adapt a new battery A little guide I made to help you adapt a new battery to your vehicle VCDS How to adapt a new battery.pdf ODIS Service How to adapt a new battery.pdf

We have several of these in the house and they work very well.

EU Legislation made ESP (ESC) compulsory in 2014. Most manufacturers had it as standard for years before that yet Skoda still had it as an optional extra with some Mk2 Fabia right up to them being discontinued. VW Group / Skoda have many things fitted to cars that require paying to have operational. Stuff that is there and part of a vehicle you own and can enable if you know how to or know a man or woman that can.

The description of what you need to request maybe at the selling dealers' parts department, is "CAR DATA" - I've always asked for that to have every time someone in our family buys a new or used VW Group car, some dealer's parts department know where to access that from your reg, others play dumb and need to be giving a nudge! I could be wrong here, but I think that the minimum requirement for a car to have HillHold is to have an ESP compliant ABS controller, now I would have thought all modern VW Group car would have ESP and if so, why is Skoda being stupid and not enabling a system like that. Edit:- correction, why is Skoda not enabling a driver aid when everything built into the car is already in place - except ticking a box to allow it to operate.

Just managed to buy a 2003 Octavia Vrs 70k miles same owner from brand new, FSH so well happy right now

The prefix is the vehicle model, 8E or 3V or such. Next number is body type (hatch/estate etc) The 8 refers to a body part 67 specifies the diagram number/section of the car 871 is generally a specific type of part (in this case a parcel shelf) the suffix can be anything from different versions to replacement parts and such. generally the middle parts will be the same across all vw part numbers but the start and end being different will change the part entirely just in case you were interested how the part numbering works

That colour is my favourite ever VW colour on any GolfGTi & would have loved it on my Golf R s mk7 -7.5. Would also be great on a mk8

If it helps, I have 205/55/16 Contis fitted which are quite squashy and the ride isn't too bad, but not as great as the 215s. I agree about ditching the 1.6, I wish I'd never seen mine.

Oh OK. So the transmission is already out of the car - at a specialist transmission repairers? You're captive then! I doubt they're in it to deliberately rip you off but are trying to stop themselves getting held responsible for an ineffective repair. Even if the codes have been cleared before that vcds extract, it only started misbehaving April 23 right? It did 30k without these faults? I thought there would've have been some other signs of a failing mechatronic over the 30k miles of use. Not helping you a lot I'm afraid. If the transmissions out, then the extra £400 or whatever for a clutch pack and maybe dmf makes some sense if the clutch packs are worn, and you've got a chance it will be the fix or a major part of the fix. If not, you just throwing money at a still faulty gearbox... Have they measured and inspected the clutch packs?

Nothing worth adding to what @Breezy_Pete says except that the 165/70 has a 4mm higher nominal sidewall than the 185/60, and higher sidewalls are definitely wanted from what you're saying.

That list in the car if found won't be the complete list anyway. Maybe yours was not fitted with it, a VIN lookup is only way, a webchat to Skoda UK, or visit a friendly dealer as they might print that off.

Sure, will send you a link now, that is correct page for update too.

Those photos are for removing door cards to access all the torx screws & connectors to undo wiring. To replace the window switch you just need to insert the screwdriver where shown and push forward & up.

I think it could be either or both with those codes. Are they using their experience or covering the possibilities and risk to them, by saying replace both? I don't know to be honest and would you believe their answer? To be fair I suppose they don't want to be held responsible for an ineffective repair - incorrectly diagnosed or partially diagnosed. Those faults are very recent, unless cleared before. What if the mechatronic has only just become faulty and it is the cause for the misshifts. Surely there is a chance the clutch packs will be OK? Dates and mileage should be first occurrence with the counter in freeze frame data increasing counter each additional log (unless cleared). Matter of who you trust and if you could stomach the overall cost. I'd be a bit worried going in on basis of clutch pack replacement only on your head. What if it's not the problem -clutch packs fine, or not the problem alone - as they've diagnosed both faulty. Thinking out loud, would it make more sense to start with the mechatronic and try with the existing clutch? If the clutch is OK, great. If not, you're only then back to doing both. The mechatronic can usually be removed / replaced in car, but access not easy, some peripheral disassembly. Easier to do if the transmission was being removed on bench for clutch pack but the 2 together are pricey, as you've discovered. Mechatronics can either be repaired but not always successfully or exchange rebuilt or new unit put in. Sorry, not totally clear in my head what you should do at this precise point in time.

Keep an eye on ebay, or make your requirements known to a local scrapyard, I picked up a set of wheels plus good tyres (only 20% worn approx.) of this size from ebay a few years back for just over £100 delivered. Generally they're likely to be collection only, and a shade more than that, but you might get lucky with someone 'upgrading' to alloys who just wants rid. Put a wanted ad on here. Come to think of it, I've got some in my shed, though the tyres are all needing replacement. Not in mint condition either but could be very cheap! 😁

Thanks. Aware of this and one of the reasons I'd rather avoid changing the battery for now.

Just sent a comprehensive set of screenshots to Audi with further explanation of the problems we are all having. Will report back as soon as they reply.

Without a fault code scan to understand what is causing all those warning lights all we can do is a blind guess in the dark. Get someone with e.g. VCDS or OBDeleven to scan your cars and post the results here. List of VCDS owners on Briskoda

Many of the card sold in online auction sites do not have the latest maps installed, so what you're downloading is the latest maps - which can be installed on an existing Skoda SD card after removing the older maps on it (either by deleting the files or quick formatting the card).

The software on mine was updated from 16xx to 1896. Today I drove the route which usually triggers the pop pop SOS issue. After the upgrade I am still getting the pop pop and SOS message but the navigation keeps working on the steering wheel display. Previously it lost the connection and only worked on the middle console. I'll see how it behaves on the way back. It's usually worse on the return journey with the yellow exclamation mark coming on together with a different SOS message...

Would have been best to keep with your existing thread probably, but yes you can charge on the car. Positive to the postive pole on battery, and Negative to chassis, not to the battery negative pole. Ideally, go to the car, and take a picture of existing battery and also of the battery area so that you can see the negative clamp and the area behind if possible (don't zoom in too close, need a general overview)

I remembered this https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/491645-can-i-make-a-modification-to-my-felicia-13-filter-case/ when i saw that.

Indeed, 5 credits per day if I remember correctly, but this option was removed last summer.

I don't recall the OBD eleven dongle to be all that expensive, although I bought mine about five years ago. There was an option to gain free credits, which if I recall was about watching ads from start to finish. I used to play them and read the paper whilst they battered on. I still have over 500 credits. Like @avi4tor post, you tend to use it to tweak a few settings then not much else apart from fault diagnosis. My Mk3 was bulletproof, not much diagnosis required at all, however I'm getting my money's worth on the Mk4 😬

The AAWireless is such a great device, so convenient, handy and issue/mess free. I've had mine for almost 2 years now. Love it.

Does the car already have a skoda sd card in it? If this is the case then all you need to do is format the sd card already fitted to the vehicle

2.4 bar is nearly 35 psi. That's a fair bit more than where you started driving the car at 24psi... With 60kg loading in the back I wouldn't go above the lighter load recommendation of 2.4bar all round. You could go as low as 2.2 but expect a little more squirm and worse economy. 2.2bar will ride the ridiculously pot holed and eroded and broken up surfaces called roads, by our county council, a little more compliantly, if yours are anything similar. Edit. The recommended pressures are on the high side but presumably based on engineering knowledge rather than a finger in the air. I think economy drives the min low load 2.4bar figures as well!

I think that's the problem - we all want to adjust just one or two features and then leave well alone. And for that we have to get a piece of kit we will never use again (SnailUK would you like to sell me yours? - I have to adjust . . .).

Can’t or may not? I can tell you that both fit the 1.6 tdi greenline, as I run wintertyres on the 15”, and summer tyres on the 17”. ( not bothered with stupid rules here in the Netherlands, that said, at least not with car tyres/wheels)

Yes, it was actually 'Skoda Approved' with full Skoda service history. When you mention the 'correct' 15" wheels' do you mean the 15" alloys that are factory fitted if the car is not specc'd with the 16" option? Or the steel wheels that you can buy from Skoda dealers as spare wheels? (I bought one some time back because our old Greenline only had a goo bottle and pump instead of a spare wheel). Yes, I'm aware of the 'modified' question for insurance. My wife's current insurer only refers to fitting wheels that are not available as manufacturer options. Many thanks for the reply and your thoughts on this.

I've dropped an email to the Skoda UK MD, perhaps a few more along this theme would help move things along? Dear Mr Bowden, I am writing to you as myself and pretty much every owner of a Skoda(and other VAG vehicles) have been hit with an issue wherein the TMC function within the built-in sattelite navigaion has ceased to function. Despite numerous approaches via Skoda Customer Services we seem to be no closer to getting an official response regarding this. In fact the stock answer from Customer Services is to take the vehicle into a dealership for diagnosis, despite this being an external issue (in fact my local Skoda dealership checked and are also affected, including their own personal vehicles and have confirmed there is nothing they can do). The issue appears to be that Trafficmaster, who provided the servers to VAG and also Honda, Chrysler, Fiat and Vauxhall, stopped transmitting RDS-TMC data in the UK (in their words, as it was unsupported). This has effectively cripped the Dynamic Routing function of the in-built sattelite navigation as the system is no longer able to pick up information on potential traffic issues on the route selected. This in turn will result in more vehicles stuck in traffic and the subsequent knock-on effect to the environment. The other RDS-TMS supplier in the UK (INRIX) have confirmed they are still transmitting data but it appears that there would have to be some kind of firmware/map update to allow Skoda vehicles to use this (and, one would assume a licence agreement between Skoda and INRIX). I would appreciate it if you could arrange for someone to provide a definitive statement on what is going to be done to resolve this issue for what will be be affecting tens of thousands of Skoda users currently. For information, my particular vehicle is a Skoda Superb SE Business, Registration *********. But I would encourage you to review the BriSkoda forum online, specifically the following thread: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/512443-tmc-traffic-events-no-longer-being-receivedfirmware-update-required/page/8/ Yours Sincerely,

Thanks for the interest both. Just to update, payment details provided to @Steve5312 yesterday. Will leave it another 24hrs, then I'll drop you a PM @theandywaite

Today I fitted RHD DSG brushed metal pedals with the following part numbers 5Q2721647A 5Q0723131A The acceleration pedal was extremely tricky to fit. Trick to use hot water to make the rubber soft and a trim removal tool so you can pry it onto the accelerator. The brake was a doddle as just popped off and on. This now has the Sportline/Monte Carlo look

What engine and gearbox codes do you currently have? The problem is the 2.0 non turbo is a totally different old breed 8 valve engine where all the ancillaries inc manifolds are totally different. It also has a reputation for oil burning although the 2.0 mk1 my Dad had was fine to be honest. Also I don't think the old 5 speed box is designed for many more gg's. I think you'd be better getting a complete suitable engine / gearbox although even then there are other differences eg mounts, engine management, Intercooler, cooling system (as I've discovered in the past). Beware engine/gearbox mounts especially where they are bolted to captive nuts in chassis etc - On a 20 year old car these can be seized / snap off etc which can be a big job to sort.

To check the timing using the correct tools should take no longer than 30 minutes or so as its a bolt/pin and a bracket with locating pins, fairly straight forward so no reason for a garage to try and rip you off. If youre sceptical, ask for photos of the timing pins in their correct locations and fitted to the car.

Physical size, flow rate, diameter of pipes, position of differential sensor ports, ....

For anyone interested the problem was the fuel pump. It was strange though because after three days of not being run, the car decided to start one morning and was able to be driven for around an hour but it started to stutter on the home stretch as if it was running out of fuel, and after switching it off, it did not want to start any more after that. We then disconnected the fuel line from the front of the fuel filter and put the ignition key fully forward to prime the fuel system, but no fuel came out, and no fuel cam out when we removed the fuel lines from the rear of the fuel filter either indicating that it was the pump. After removing the pump (removing its hose was a real pain), bench testing it with 12 volts directly to its two terminals made it work for a second or two but never again after that. Once the new pump arrived, we bench tested it first and it hummed like a bird when given 12 volts. After putting the pump back into the sender unit we again bench tested it from the actual four pin socket and it still worked, so we installed it, primed the fuel system, confirmed that fuel now came out of its pressure release valve, primed again and the car started right away. Took if for a drive, allowing it to reach operating temperature before taking it above 50KMH, and it ran just fine all the way up to 100KMH. Got home, turned it off and confirmed that it started again afterwards.

Sounds like fan running, possibly had been doing some emissions cleaning The other possibility is thermostat opened and some water circulated where there had been airlock (which explains the trickling). When it is cold check the coolant level and top up if required.

One of the very last Mk1's 😎, at my local Indy: Gaz

Ordered November 22 Arrived April 23 Delivery soon Can't come quick enough , went from a mk3 vrs to a vw arteon shooting brake , worst decision I ever made but back in a vrs shortly .