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I collected my Octavia Mk4 IV SEL estate / combi today from the dealer. Ordered 22nd Feb 22 original delivery estimate August 22. I started complaining to Skoda uk December 22 about lack of delivery information. Received the £100 sorry it’s late voucher from Skoda uk and fee life shine from the dealer for the delay. The dealership had a number of IVs so batches are starting to arrive. All those waiting I hope you get your cars soon. Regards BRS

Well thanks to Briskoda.. a big saving. Second hand headlight quote was $800.00 aud Trying to find cheaper and no luck... However this thread below popped up and terrific solution to the problem, great practical thinking by Skoda. So now we should have headlight and bumper ($1,000.00 Aud), sump ($90.00), sorted. Just lock in front mudguard (still searching), keys ($2,000) and lower sump baffle (89.00) and we should start making headway.

I ordered a Skoda Octavia RS in February 2022. finally got it today and I am very happy.

Every car should have these in the front door pockets, both sides, along with the Hi-viz vests. EU & UK should legislate, as with the safety features they bring in that are supposed to work but can be dangerous because the manufacturers never actually sorted them out before having them as a standard feature from the factory build.

Some owners use those small 12V electric pumps that you plug into the cigarette lighter socket. When you unscrew them from the valve after they've put some air in the tyres, they lose quite a bit of air, perhaps about 3psi. So some owners using those electric pumps will overinflate their tyres by 3psi so that their tyres end up at about the right pressure. However, it's more accurate to overinflate and then reduce the air pressure to the correct level using a tyre pressure gauge with an air bleed valve.

Re. the items in the trunk - reduce weight here by moving some of the heavy items to trailer, position over axle.

Decidedly I will NEVER mount KONI in my cars and of course I will not recommend or speak well of the brand. For some time the noise seen in the video has been making me, next Tuesday I will go to the service to check but I know that if they do not put new ones on me, KONI ESPAÑA will not change them under warranty. @Carlston @markyg82 Could I continue with the Koni SA front and mount new SACHS rear?? Everyone I talk to or read about is happy with the Sachs.

The Estate / vRS suspension might well be stiffer. I would be using good spring assistors / helpers as the rear still dips even with a stabalizer or especially with. ? What springs are on the cars that come with Factory Tow Bar or Preparation? @Carlstonmight well know. http://mad-suspensionsystems.com/en/applications/passenger-car http://mad-suspensionsystems.com

Mum and Dad have them well organised 👍

Ah, Halfords do a flexible vinyl paint also Colorbond do manufacturer specific matched colours ... Colorbond

I have the same size wheels and tyres on my 1.5tsi ACT dsg, 19 reg. I went for this spec also for comfort with the higher tyre wall running with 205/55 16's. I wouldn't consider my car to have a firm/bumpy ride, as it doesn't have a sports orientated suspension set up. I'd first check your tyre pressures, mine are all set at 32psi (read 35psi), then check all your tyres have the same speed & load ratings, too. As the cheaper type XL rated tyres can give you a firmer ride feel. Then tyre choice/brand would also make a difference with side wall comfort, too.

If you don't have a good tyre pressure gauge with a pressure release valve for easy adjustment of the air pressure, then Halfords do a reasonable looking one. The gauge goes up to 4Bar (60psi). Avoid ones that go higher, such as 100psi because they won't be accurate enough for car tyres and are harder to read. When it comes to ride comfort, it's easy to notice a 3psi difference. So that's the first thing to do as it doesn't cost any money except for the price of a pump and pressure gauge. What are all the tyre pressures at the moment? https://www.halfords.com/motoring/motorcycling/motorcycle-accessories/oxford-tyre-gauge-pro-dial-type0-60psi-461054.html

Just for the record, I bought the VCDS & Tuning box over the weekend and @The Skud provided me with a tracking number by Monday lunchtime and they arrived on Tuesday morning. Exactly as described and even helped me out getting registered as the 2nd user. Very happy buyer 😁

Have ordered a hyper green VRs after seeing the colour on an Enyaq , it’s not something you would lose in a car park . Order placed early April was told a twenty week delivery have been told today it’s been built and on its way to shipping .

Copart deals in stolen recovered and finance repossessions as well as accident damaged vehicles.

I was going to suggest that but thought that both were probably loaded close to the limit, now we have the numbers there is some room for adjustments and that is the obvious one. I am usually loading a flat load space with no rear seats so this is of no use to Swirly with the family but I try to put all the heavy items in the rear footwells and also the front passenger footwells, anything heavy as far forward as I can get within the limits of practicality, at the rear behind and over the axle is generally just my small backpack with clothes, the coolbox and coolbag etc. Another thing to check when the rear suspension is sagging like that is that when you couple the trailer look at the front suspension and not the rear, you may well notice that the front of the car actually lifts as the noseweight creates a turning moment about the rear axle, this I don't need to mention is very undesirable. All these things can happen yet the weights remain within the specified limits showing that a common sense approach is needed. With the stiffer rear springs on the Yeti and my penchant for a higher than normal noseweight the lifting of the front of the vehicle is very noticable meaning I have to redistribute the trailer load.

Is there any invoice for the last Oil Change Service to show they used the correct oil so that you are topping up with the same. (Just incase some place maybe went with 5w 30 or 0w 30 FS, which is VW504 00 ?) It should not be a struggle to find the correct spec. You require to VW 508 00 / 509 00 which is 0w 20 FS IV. VW508 00 for a TSI from around 2018 when Skoda / VW changed from VW 504 00 / 507 00, 5w 30 FS III so that they got the WLTP results needed.

If you've got 5Q0511115R rear springs, then changing to these 5Q0511115S rear springs should help. About 5% to 10% stiffer than 5Q051115R and will increase the ride height by about 10mm (more if the current springs have started to sag). Considering that there's not much labour involved in changing rear springs, it might be worth doing. If you PM Pete with your VIN, he can check if your factory rear springs are 5Q0511115R. Eibach R19953 (matching 5Q0511115S) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/eibach/18259209 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275598016886 As you can see in the chart below, 5Q0511115S is one up in the hierarchy compared to 5Q0511115R. No Part code Title Note Quantity Model suspension impact padding for vehicles with sports suspension PR-1JE 1 5Q0511115M Coil spring 2 PR-1JE+0YA 1 5Q0511115N Coil spring 2 PR-1JE+0YB 1 5Q0511115P Coil spring 2 PR-1JE+0YC 1 5Q0511115Q Coil spring 2 PR-1JE+0YD 1 5Q0511115R Coil spring 2 PR-1JE+0YE 1 5Q0511115S Coil spring 2 PR-1JE+0YF 1 5Q0511115T Coil spring 2 PR-1JE+0YG 1 5Q0511115AA Coil spring 2 PR-1JE+0YH 1 5Q0511115AB Coil spring 2 PR-1JE+0YJ https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/OCT/805/5/511/511003

You are not getting rim protection at the rear when you go wider but with lower profile to keep the circumference the same. @CarlstonKnows the rim widths and tyre widths and what is what is what as far as the bulge goes.

It needs to be the OE spec or the injector will move around (more than it does) and damage the bore You didn’t reuse the other bolts did you?

If you used a Helicoil type thread insert then you can tighten it to original spec.

Managed to get dealer to do spare wheel kit from dealer for £160 with foam kit so went with that 2 weeks to go fingers crossed

Kolben is piston, You mean KolbenSchmidt or KS who may all sorts of parts. KS, Mahle and Nural are commonly available for this engine OE the ones I have taken apart have been Nural.

I can send along 0480 version

As you can see in the chart below, 255/40R19 tyres have a 8mm bigger outside diameter than 245/40R19 tyres. So even when the tyres are new, the 255/40R19 tyres will have a 1.2% bigger outside diameter than the 245/40R19 tyres. On a front wheel drive car, the front tyres tend to wear a lot quicker than the rear tyres. So it wouldn't be long before the rear tyres had an outside diameter over 1.5% larger than the front tyres. This might cause problems with the traction control, ABS, etc., because the front tyres will be spinning a lot quicker than the rear tyres. Also, it's useful with a front wheel drive car to be able to rotate the tyres front to back to even out the tread wear. Fitting wider rear tyres is more of a rear wheel drive thing. Front wheel drive cars tend to understeer not oversteer, so fitting rear tyres that are wider than the front tyres seems a bit pointless on a front wheel drive car. Outside diameter of tyres 245/40R19 678.6mm 255/40R19 686.6mm (+1.2%)

I'll see if I can get any comments from the Mib collective as I call them on the TMC LTNs location.

I’m not I’m afraid Ryan were off on holiday on Monday so we’re gonna miss it. Next year 100% I’ll be there though

Agreed on all of those but the rear suspension is far too low even without the rear seat passengers, the jockey wheel is very low, maybe you can remove it, it will ground on say the entrance to a field or on traffic calming measures. The big concern will be the wear on the inner edge of the rear tyres due to the excessive camber change on the VAG setup. The problem is not the nose weight of the caravan but the settled position of the probably weakened rear suspension springs, they are already on the bump stops before the vehicle encounters any suspension movement or pitching from the long single axle caravan.

Yes, sending shortly to you.

The second photo shows that your rear springs are shot even without the noseweight of the caravan plus luggage, rear seat passengers etc. Unless of course it had a pallet of bricks in the rear! For my last 2 vehicles I have used the "rough road package" springs specified by VAG and made by Lesjofors, they have been excellent for towing, the standard springs even if they are not shot are appaling for towing or even just carying rear seat passengers, I suspect yours like mine will have broken spring ends.

Could you plastic weld it? Look on Youtube for plastic welding and there are a few videos of how to do it. Something like this:

Not today but a couple of days ago installed a DTUK box thingy to give me more ponies and torques. Mated with the pedal box already installed it sure makes the car GLF on some settings

Steve, Yep, That's the one. It doesn't come with any foam kit to store the wheel - I've just placed it in the circular space below the boot floor after removing the polystyrene foam packaging that had the tyre "repair" kit in it. It fits in neatly and there is room for your car jack as well. Hope you enjoy your new car - I've had mine 3 days and am pleased with it. Setting up the "Virtual Cockpit" to the way you like it is a bit of a challenge! The handbook doesn't explain it at all. Best to Google "Fabia Virtual Cockpit" and check out some of the videos that have been made about it - some are better than others, John

You can easily add some air to the car's tyres at home using a bicycle "track" pump. It saves a trip to the garage to use their airline.

That is a horrific experience for you to endure - and words cannot describe how the occupants of that car must have felt. Thank you for being brave enough to share it and I hope you and your family are getting all the support you need to overcome the trauma. And likewise the relatives of those in the accident. We too easily trust that the modern automatic features of our cars will work as described when we need them too and this very sad incident has certainly got me thinking! Should I disable the autolock or not. I like the feeling of security, especially as I often carry expensive equipment in the car - but what is that compared to the value of life...

I commute a 5 mile journey into work and back, mixture of 40/50mph dual carriageways and 30mph town and I'll see 32mpg most times. I get 37ish going out to my parents in the sticks and best I had was 41mpg on a sensible motorway journey. Mines a 220 DSG and I drive it sensibly most of the time.

Thank you so much, because of your comment, I've saved myself hundreds of pounds since it wasnt the pump, we replaced the fuse and everything is perfect. You really are a life saver

40cm longer than mine, no way would I want to tow a single axle version at that length especially with the long overhang of the Superb and an additional 400kg payload in the vehicle and with standard suspension. You are also way beyond the 85% kerbweight guideline, OK its not enforceable and I can't talk given what I regularly tow but the very short rear overhang of the Yeti is a great advantage especially with uprated springs. I had the brown trouser tank slapper moment of a lifetime on the M25 towing a twin axle removal trailer with the MK1 Octavia which prompted me to uprate the rear suspension.

Drive it like that and you will see the insides of your rear tyres disappear before your eyes to be replaced by shredded steel and canvas plies. Dont ask me how I know. These vehicles drag their ar5e simply with passengers in the rear let alone luggage and trailer nose weight, there are none showing in the photo but given the bunk beds in the caravan I am betting you have rear passengers when you tow. I have uprated the rear springs on all 3 of my Skoda tow vehicles, the unladen ride height may look a bit odd but the unladen ride and handling is unchanged, the laden/towing ride and handling is transformed and no inner tyre wear. I have done 45000 miles on the Yeti tyres and they were second hand when I got it, by carefully rotating them and tweaking the pressures all 4 now are evenly scrubbed with approx 3.6mm tread depth which will last a very long time, many more miles per mm than the initial wear and they grip superbly for the first time. The only problem is them being visible in the open wheel arches people keep remarking that my tyres are bald, they are not even down to the 3mm tread wear indicators which are nearly twice the legal limit, it shows that most people have to replace their tyres through uneven wear well before they need to, they think an evenly scrubbed tyre must be illegal! The very first job I did on the Yeti was to uprate the rear springs as even then there were signs of the inside rear edges wearing, had I not done so I would have had to replace them twice over by now as I have done tens of thousands of miles towing overloaded trailers and of course the caravan.

I am not sure what the pressures are at the moment. I need to go an check. I will look at the Halfords gauge and pop to a tyre pressure machine over the weekend.

Your car is draggin its ar5e like a dog with worms! What length and weight is the caravan? Mine is a 6.4m twin axle, 1485kg I think, its static now as I am living in it during my building works, it only got towed here and will be towed to the next owner, all tyres well perished by the sun.

Has the front bumper been painted at all? that’s a common issue when the front end has taken a bump.

Engine "in" New 3" downpipe and the 6 speed box with quaife LSD that is worth more than the car 🙈. Not too far away now. Next up.. front subframe and suspension.

Well Renault Austral was in some ways impressive and other ways bland. Will work at 70 mph (actually up to 130 kph Renault HQ guy mentioned) in EV mode, looks like it can go over 60 mpg and he said range can be seen to be over 700 miles. Acceleration pretty good, just about 8s to 60 with the turbo and ETECH working in combo, starts at £34.6K, made in Spain not South Korea like my Arkana was. As purely a value proposition, compared to the Megane-E electric car I would probably go for the Austral but then waiting for the new Rafale seems an even better idea as it will have all the Austral tech but in a better looking Sports Coupe body and hopefully not be over £40k for the base model. I see too many Model Ys, especially in white, even though my Arkana is a Pearl While but only cost me £25K, and I have a big worry about VW cars with huge debt it has and even more it is borrowing to go down the EV roll fully at prices that mean they will sell enough carsa to survive. Mazda, Nissan and Toyota could all be toast as they are so slow to the EV and PHEV market across a decent rage of models, Stelantis too, maybe Renault/Dacia will be the European HQ car maker to survive the Chinese and TESLA value onslaught ?

Mine creaks and groans, depending on the temperature. Has done since new. It’s now six years later.

1.5 TSI Style eTEC DSG Autom + a lot of extras, ordered 12/21 has now been build and started it's journey to Finland. It should be here in about 4 weeks.

I'm usually one for keeping things stock/oem. But, my god what a difference just a simple remap makes. I have a standard example and I have a remapped version, and the difference is night and day. The vRS really should've left with 200/210BHP. If you're thinking about it, there are a couple of options that you could do. Badger5 or R-Tech are the places to go for tuning, there are other places which I'm sure some will recommend. Only one thing to add, if you remap, factor in a clutch replacement as a precaution. Do NOT get a generic off the shelf remap, always go custom/dyno.

Ive got to say, for the price of a maxton kit the fixings it comes with and instructions are shocking! They really expect you to just slap some tiny self tappers through the sills and that will hold the side skirts on. Really not good enough in my opinion. Instead I went down the route of drilling the sills, painting the now exposed metal, fitting stainless steel rivnuts flush with the underseal. Then fitting the side skirts with stainless steel bolts and large stainless washers as well as a good seam of PU adhesive to prevent water getting into the area. All of these extra parts cost me £15 and a good few hours of my time. But at least I dont have to worry about rusting out sills or my side skirts falling off.

185/65R14 would fit the 5Jx14 ET35 5/100 57.1 steel rims. 185/65R14 has almost the same outside diameter as 195/55R15. If you're lucky enough to have the small 239x18mm front brake discs, you could fit 5Jx13 ET35 5/100 57.1 steel rims, and fit 185/70R13 tyres. Vredestein Quatrac 5 185/70R13 86T https://www.camskill.co.uk/m136b0s7971p144836/Vredestein_Tyres_All_Season_Car_Vredestein_Quatrac5_Vredestein_Quatrac_5_-_185_70_R13_86T_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_D_Wet_Grip%3A_C_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_69dB Vredestein Quatrac 5 185/65R14 86T https://www.camskill.co.uk/m137b0s7980p144832/Vredestein_Tyres_All_Season_Car_Vredestein_Quatrac5_Vredestein_Quatrac_5_-_185_65_R14_86T_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_D_Wet_Grip%3A_C_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_69dB 5Jx13 ET35 5/100 57.1 steel rim 6Q0601027E 6Q0601027E Steel rim 5Jx13 ET35 6Q0601027E 03C rally black CLASSIC 6Q0601027E 091 chrome colored JUNIOR https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/FAB/225/6/601/601010