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Washed my car, just in time before it started to rain, and removed SUPERB and 4x4 badges - L&K badges next: Also, earlier in the week I fitted full size 235/45 7.5jx18" - had to adjust some plastics and the foam spare wheel tool kit holder. Fits like a glove - a bit high though. Need to sort it out next.

Good time to bump this thread. For the second time in not many months I've come across petrol Fabias with faults that appear to be related to the wrong pressure regulator/fuel filter fitted. One car should have had a 4 bar rated one but had had 3 bar fitted (2007 BME-code 3-cylinder 1.2 engine) and today's the other way round; designed for 3-bar but 4-bar fitted, a 2007 BBZ 1.4/16 valve. Unfortunately, the PR code that tells you which your car should have may not appear on the data sticker on the boot floor. You can get your full car data pdf free from a cooperative dealership parts counter person, via erWin Skoda for a small fee , via an Italian ebay seller for only 3 Euros (VIN decoder that will show factory options Audi VW Seat Skoda | eBay) or from anyone with a VIN-filtering parts catalogue. Ask me nicely by private message and that includes me. If the list includes the PR code 1A1, you need a 3 bar filter, if it is 1A3 you should have 4 bar. Handily the pressure rating tends to be stamped rather visibly on the rear end of the thing, just under the sill in front of right rear wheel. Don't rely on ECP etc. to necessarily find the correct one for your car by reg plate number look-up.

Probably not in Germany, almost everyone likes it clean. Also, it cleans up better. I also removed everything on the outside of my L&K. Inside, it's still on the dashboard and the leather seats.

Cradle is loose or differential is loose in the cradle .

So hello everybody, An update from me for 1941 as promised, after 9 days and 2400 km travelled. So during this time and almost daily drives I unfortunatley still had 2 reboots. One when triyng to zoom in on the route via the infotainment (Google maps / AA) and another happened while I was calling the Skoda service hotline using the integrated call button (spanner symbol next to the overhead lamps) Both restarts happened waaaay into the trip, like 5-7 hours after starting the drive(s) No longer had any issues when connecting the phone right after starting the engine/trip, as it was happening before the update. In a nutshell, while still happening, the reboots only seemed to appear after/during long drives. Hope this heps.

I'll race you 😝

Touristafarten... Not track day! I can't wait to see it myself too😂

The facelifted T-Cross just announced has a much improved cabin with better layout and soft touch materials. Outside has been updated with all LED lights and style tweaks. New technology as well but details not yet confirmed until full release early Autumn. Looks a viable alternative to the Yeti, similar size and has the small outside bigger inside feel. Going to have a test drive once they are available at dealers.

Hi, Our Yeti is now seven years old and normally we trade in for a brand new car every two to three years. This Yeti is the best all round car we've ever owned both my wife and I still love it. I was concerned about its age and have been looking around for a suitable replacement but my eyes glaze over as I browse the web. So many cars these days appear clones of each other whereas our Yeti has real street presence. Cars with no hand brake lever? Definitely no electric car of any kind for us. I washed the Yeti two days ago and polished it yesterday; I felt real regret even at the thought of parting with it; it's only got 32,000 on the clock and still looks like new. It's now taxed for another year and already fully insured with Saga from the 16th when the LV policy expires; the service with MOT and brake fluid change is little over £300. I've just bought 5 liters of Bilt Hamber Dynax S-50 rustproofing to treat it with. For the last six years it's been on £30 per year road tax now it's suddenly gone up to £35; £550 for comp insurance it's not an expensive car to own and run and it's such a joy to own; I'd like to have it rust proofed professionally but can't find a local company to do the job. I must have suffered a senior moment even to consider parting with it. 🤢 Kind regards, Colin.

Although the Octavia has a decent noise profile from factory, I decided it would be worthwhile attempting to soundproof it a little more. The usual culprits, the boot and rear seat, were first in line. The large metal surfaces in the boot had only some small pieces of deadening material on them from the factory, sounded like a drum when tapped, especially the hump above the gas tanks. Treated them with a layer of CTK Premium 2.2mm butyl mats. I also identified a potential source of rattle under the rear seat, marked in the second picture. The part of the trim extending below the seat has a plastic rivet going through it, but it's not tightly secured against the metal. Tapping lightly on the edge caused it to rattle, so I snuck the edge of the butyl mat below those parts, tightening them up. Adding insulation in these locations has already improved a lot of the noise originating from the back, particularly by eliminating a lot of the "thump" you hear when driving over small bumps or holes in the road surface. Next step will probably be the doors and boot lid.

Hi guys, As said here, I had the chance to replace someone who could not go to Le Mans Classic last week-end. We were there from 10:30 AM to 6:40 PM. 12km walking and roughly 430 pics ! I had the chance to access to paddocks (but not to the pit lane), and sincerely, what a day ! The show was so tremendous, that I can't resist to share you some of my pics. DKW Monza 1957 / 3 cyl 1000cm3 To keep on with German cars: Porsche 904 Porsche 550 being repaired / tuned ? No less than 2 mechanics under the engine / gearbox! Porsche 356 (in concours conditions , all was like brand new!) And this version with a special fairing for Endurance races had nothing to envy the previous one: A 911 2.0 A Porsche 917 driving to the pre-grid, a former Le Mans winner A Mercedes 300SL 1954 with seagull doors , which was a former Le Mans and also Carrera Panamericana racer: Let's have a look to American cars now. One of the numerous Ford GT40: Another one here, close to a recent Ford GT : Two of the numerous AC Cobra too: Some British ones now, starting with one of the many Jaguar E-Type 3,8l which made the trip to this event: Have a look to the rudimentary cabin venting system! Also a fantastic Jaguar D-Type with its shark fin: A small nod to moviegoers by the way: More recent, the Ferrari 2023 edition winner, with its multitude of carbon appendages After race cars, some 'normal' cars: Among them, this amazing and very worked Delage The Mc Laren corner (I wasn't able to count all the £Millions lined up ) !!! Among them, this Mc Laren F1 GTR whose cockpit has nothing to envy the aircraft industry (especially with all its connectors): Some French ones anyway: R8 Gordini or Alpine Berlinette (with their descendants, contemporary A110s in the background) One of the 8-10 Pantera De Tomaso in the event: A quick look on the pre-grid for the 20s-30s category race, which was almost a one-type race and even a one-brand race, so numerous were the Bentleys! This one in the background had a very thin worked radiator cap, but I wasn't able to define what it represented for sure (a contortionist?). I didn't have the opportunity to see other races but these Bentley drivers were not playing at all, they were real competitors "with a knife between teeth" (suction, intimidation to overtake in the curve interior in the braking zones. Fantastic show!) On one hand astounding to see the 'fights' given the price of these cars (we said to ourselves: How sick they are, did they forget the price of these cars ?) and on the other hand, so exciting to see how they simply make them "live" by driving them the way they should be ! Thinking about it, I wonder whether I finally prefer to see them like that, rather than in a museum remaining parked ... Some Porsche 911 from all generations as far as eye can see! A 1974 BMW 3,0 CSL which raced at Le Mans : A rare BMW Z8 and another magnificent 3,0 CSL in the background: A Maserati Sebring (escorted by 2 Ghibli) absolutely splendid in concours condition. Really stunning, including the dashboard and the interior. One can also notice this 3200 GT in the background with its beautiful "boomerang"-like rear lights, which had to be quickly replaced by much more common rear lights to meet approval requirements of the US authorities... The sacred beast: Aston Martin DB5! Needless to say it's ultra classy! I'm really a big fan More exotic, there was a "Hot rods" corner. This one was probably the most exuberant: At least, you can't miss the gas pedal ! A rare Chevrolet Corvette C2 in split Window version (only on MY 1964!) An equally rare Chevrolet Corvette C1 '61, which had something really special: a Corvette C2 back end! I really thank the owner, who kindly hold the bonnet when he saw that I was taking a picture of the engine. Happiness of being among enthusiasts, glad to share ! A Jaguar E-Type coupé, with convertible roof. An option I had never seen. Fantastic! A Facel Vega HK500, also in concours condition. A french car, which had nothing to envy its contemporary Italian or British cars. Too bad, the brand did not survive... Fortunately, this British owner keeps it in amazing conditions. Sorry I can't share all my pics, but you have here a nice panel !

I thought this was quite interesting in terms of not just efficiency/technology, but use of sugar cane, mushrooms, bamboo - who'd've thought.... Gaz

The L&K badges on mine have gone too. They look like crappy cake decorations (as someone else said either here or on Facebook recently). The Skoda, Superb and 4x4 badges will go next. Prefer the cleaner look. Also, as I am running a remap, the more Q-car I can get, the better.

I asked the main dealer when I bought the car, best £20 ever. Makes the car look SO much better, especially with the MC alloys.

I prefer a "cleaner/plainer" look. Also, as mentioned above, it is easier to wash/clean. Besides, it is just a Skoda, why any badges would make any difference? Even if it is L&K all bells and whistles. And I cannot see how this would affect resale value. Most likely I will not bother with private and will go trhough some trader - and they cannot care less, as long as miles are low and there are no dents/other damages. Still, the car is only 4 months old, so I will not worry about resale value yet

These coolant lines were a pig. Those stupid clips are the devil's work lol. Plastic lines were old and had a few tiny hair line cracks just allowing water to seep out. All replaced with genuine items.

Welcome to the future, it's looking bleak. I think it's time they left ice cars alone, or maybe restrict engine size and admit that real problem is industry and natural gas burning.

If that's an accurate oil level reading then someone messed up bad. I'd suggest you don't start it before draining it enough to get it within specs. If you continue driving it that overfilled you risk damaging the catalytic converter and other things.

Same behaviour happened to me, ~ 2 days ago: at the end of the highway (A2) just before approaching the city (Bucharest), Waze did a sort of zoom in, then the infotainment suddenly rebooted. 😞 Firmware version 1941 AA version 9.8.632424 Waze version 4.95.2.0

Typical SAI pump failure, genuine they are daft money at £792.60 (part number 078 906 601 M) and even trade from ECP are over £300 so when mine went a few years ago I took a gamble on a £50 Chinese Max Speeding rods pump, it is barley audible and has worked faultlessly.

Dunno, but our 2003 Toyota Echo is at 205k km and on the original timing chain with no rattles, also on the original auxiliary belt drives although these are looking a little old Nearly bit the bullet a couple of years back to get a manual 1.5tsi Scala at what was a really good drive away price then but could not get a test drive of a manual version (during the Covid troubles). Our Octavia was and still drives like new and meets every demand we make of it but is old enough not to care to much about scratches or risking a bad road or even a drive along a beach. I will start getting local quotes from independents this year I think, but then again I said that last year.

Searching for information on how to remove the Swing Radio from my Superb 2 I cam across this thread and found it a bit confusing so I thought I'd clarify the removal method of you have the Swing radio fitted to a Superb 2. The bezel you need to remove is part of the radio, it's the gloss black part that goes around the display and controls. It is not the outer bezel as found on some other models, no amount of prying is going to get an outer bezel off as it's part of the radio, you'll just damage the radio or dash and still not be able to remove the radio. Here's a photo of what the radio looks like with the bezel removed giving access to the 4 tox screws you need to remove.

Can you find yourself a Fantasy Green estate...? That'd do ya...

Try the spare parts Department, the parts numbers are in the brochure In theory should be able to give you a price and check availability for each. Might be sales teams were offering limited selection of expensive ones. Oddly Skoda sometimes has 2 parts numbers, one for accessories, one for spares, for same item, and prices are different. Might also find prices are different if you drive to Germany or Italy etc. Obviously not worth it for small difference but if it is €100 per wheel then might be.

Hi Cobber, how long do you intend to go with your experiment? I chickened out at 7 years, (but with low mileage)

She's amazing, I keep contemplating on getting rid of her and getting something more practical because of the baby but I just can't do it. It's absolutely faultless.

AGFalco probably right

For what it is worth, my personal experiment for non replacement of our 2014 1.4tsi 96k km is continuing uneventfully. Australia can be quite dusty especially the dirt roads in summer, and it has travelled on a few of them.

Quite impatient to see your Nurburgring track day video! 😃

Are the daps included for scale or for fashion purposes?

I looked closely at mine today to see if the diff side cover can be removed in situ, it will be very tight if it does come out and access to the upper bolts is very restricted, I have decided that its better for me to remove the whole cradle as others have said. As can be seen by Fr1nklyns experience the more a garage has to remove to do a job the greater the chance of them getting something wrong. That goes for us DIY'ers as well but its easier, for me at least, to cope with my failings than to pay to find those of others and all the grief and denial that follows.

Further to the postings above regarding EV's and their storage after an accident, while awaiting repair etc, I have dug these documents up, which re-enforce the claims. Damaged electric cars ‘quarantined’ over fears they will explode (telegraph.co.uk) recovery-_operators-working-with-electric-vehicles.pdf

problem solved! Apparently the engine timing was off during the belt change and engine management didn't like it. I am now back home and the car ran well for the whole 587 miles. Thank's to all for your input.

Yup, it could well mean if your EV is over a year old, it stands a high chance of being written off.

Damaged EV quarantine requirements are on .gov website - including environmental covers and minimum of 15 metres separation from other vehicles, which will significantly increase storage costs.

41 mpg average and that is not eco driving.

Well I had no reply to @skodauk on twitter getting them to sort the problem for everyone. Thanks to vroom, and the 1941 update I've had no reboots for 3 days. Simple install took less than 30 minutes and carried out while cleaning the car. Thanks again.

The second lock repair kit arrived. This one from China. Much better. Much closer in size to the original one. This is the kit if anyone is interested. Spring strong without being overly strong. Parts very close to ideal thickness. Much easier to assemble. I could have taken half a mil of the c clip but it went on as is. With the key assembled I put it back in the door and with a few turns left and right the central locking started opening and closing. Probably stiff from lack of use. And as a Brucy bonus as I was turning the key towards the front I accidentally pressed one of the buttons on the fob which wound down all the windows. I wasn't sure what happened but after that the fob also started working again. Talk about two birds in one stone! Lock fixed and central locking. Hopefully the "fix" lasts..........

Axles now painted, stonechip first then 2 coats of glorious hammered black. Nitromors stuff cause the shop didn't have hammerite, and I wasn't bothered going anywhere else. Looking real sharp. Bit left over for touch up once it's in too. Also sealed up the firewall from the time I tried chopping it out for the vrs one. Feels like I'm getting to the point where Everything's lining up, and I'll just be able to bang everything in like that.

Update. I replaced the complete clutch about 4 weeks ago and installed another new slave cylinder. So far so good, no more issues with air in the system, no fluid leaks and the clutch itself is much lighter. I hadn’t realised how heavy the old clutch was but this was probably the original fault, the heavy clutch put additional strain on the hydraulic system and the plastic slave cylinder was drawing in air before it finally let go.

Many years ago I towed with a Volvo v70, lovely car but it also suffered with a saggy rear end when hitched up. I got over this problem by using the rubber inserts (cant remember the name) on the springs. This cured the problem and we had many years without the problem. Was only a 20 minute job to fit them as well.

First world problems but something that VAG really should not have allowed to continue.

They are called flakes of oxidised aluminium you can make your own by leaving a piece of bare aluminium outside exposed to the weather and atmospheric pollution but the fastest method is to buy any electrostatic painted or powder coated external VAG component which will give you both ferrous and aluminium oxide flakes in no time at all with the added bonus that you wont even need to leave them outside or remove them from their packaging 😆 Brake disc backplates, suspension arms & crossmembers, roof rails wiper arms and the lower part of Yeti doors would be my recommendation!

Sent file, better to have in reserve

If you're offended by the ugly corrosion simply mask the background with a piece of cardboard and use masking tape on the wiper arm, then a wire brush and some black smooth Hammerite will cure your OCD for just the cost of the paint. No need to remove or replace anything.

Yes I was just sending PM as you wrote

How much of that success is just people wanting the latest trending thing, though, especially in light of the various safety concerns over touchscreens? Millions of people adapt to all sorts of new technology, but that doesn't mean it's the best technology... It often only proves that marketing strategies work. I get a lot of fanboyism from the guys at work with EVs, but when I look at what they have to go through and spend all their time doing just in order to drive a car... A pushbike starts to look surprsingly attractive!

Perished vacuum hose to turbocharger vane actuator, it collapses on itself under heat load and there will also be a miniscule leak (probably again perished hose) allowing the vacuum to bleed away from the actuator. You will find that cycling the ignition will bring the power back which may get you to the top of the hill or it may loose boost again. If this is happening from a cold start on a winters day then it would be an overboost from the turbo vanes sticking, you hear and feel a sort of burp when this happens as the throttle butterfly closes to reduce the boost pressure. From what you have described it will be the former, very difficult to diagnose, it took me 18 months, very easy to diagnose when you know its a possibility.

Just need a workaround for MIB2 Low now, if any.

Well everyone would stop buying televisions if no one could watch anything on them, so I think you would find manufacturers doing something about it! And there is a difference here. Skoda (VAG) was paying Trafficmaster for this data to be accessed by their vehicles. Trafficmaster stopped broadcasting, and I agree Trafficmaster cannot be compelled to resume broadcasting (it's not even as simple as that, they appear to have rescinded their right to broadcast). However, there is an alternative provider (INRIX) with whom VAG could arrange to contract TMC services from. That is what we need to push manufacturers for. Simply to replace like for like, we're not asking for anything more.