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I removed the Skoda lettering from my Superb and just had Superb and 4x4 there so it’s more symmetrical

Just done my iV. Ignition on, 10 sec press on menu button, tapped update and selected the highlighted usb connector, easy, left a door open, lights off. Didn’t get the warning about it shutting down so all went sweetly in just over 20 mins start to finish! 1896 to 1941

The ABS indication does not flash under hard braking or activation of the system.

See this thread. Its a long one but has some gold in there.

Only if registered, which is $99 to do. See function chart here http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Functions

Why not post in thread "$daft_name upgrade for infotainment"? That actually tells people what you have an issue with.

Ouch! That takes me back 😒

Yes, KW DCC is installed. There is nothing with penetrating or the like. Of course you have to slow down a bit in some places, but it is perfectly suitable for everyday use. There is also residual thread, so it could even be a little deeper. But that's enough for me.

Sadly no; in fact you're not even meant to feel the kickback much these days.

Yes. All true. Very much not understood by VW parts departments, TPS, mechanics but there were 2 different designs and they were applicable to different manufacturing periods. I'll have to look up my notes for @rayx and get back to you what you need. But I remember enough to know / recall that AJ and AH are on different streams i.e. not appropriate for vehicles that build across the specified date... But, again, if you've got serious oil usage it is likely to be oil scraper rings design fouling, that has caused bore scoring... a very very common problem in gen 2 especially 1.8tsi

256x22mm front brake discs with MANDO calipers https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/FAB/797/6/615/615012

Thank you very much for your reply. After I made the posting I looked on YT (again) and saw how a wing mirror can be detached. Luckily I have the trim tools used for installing the cabling for the dashcam and used these to ease off the mirror together with its mounting plate. I then realised what the problem was. Previously the mirror had almost come off and could have been lost. Luckily I saved it before that happened. The garage said you won't re-stick it. You will need a new mirror. However, Duck tape on the back of the mirror followed by mastic and the mirror was successfully replaced. What I did not realise was that the bottom of the mirror was touching the cowling and restricting the movement. So I managed separate the mirror from the mounting plate (now out of the housing) and re-set the mirror properly on the plate. It's now working fine. Thanks again for your response. I have gone though this is some detail in case the experience turns out to be of value to anyone else.

Thanks everyone. I think my main motivation was being able to go in the van fields at festivals: realistically the idea of sleeping on top of my Citigo is quite ridiculous I can see now. Will carry on with Small Car And Tent and keep dreaming about being able to get a van.

Ah so they are the illuminated icons! Yes mine does have it but it was too dark to check. I have every sympathy with the nephew for thinking that he could turn it anti-clockwise, he probably does not yet have a license so wont have twigged that you should not drive on foglights alone. I spent hours alone in the drivers seat of my parents car "practicing" (fantasising) for the day when I would be driving, I probably wore out the clutch, throttle and gear linkages, the engine would always be flooded after one of my sessions and not want to restart, being obsessive and with a thirst for knowledge I knew exactly what the problem was but did not dare admit it, when my father would lose his rag with the reluctant Capri I would suggest he tried again with the throttle on the floor just in case it might be flooded!

Define ‘lifetime’. The lifetime of the car, the engine, the belt, the tensioners or your lifetime? Skoda UK are either useless or very clever, only you can determine which. Skoda Auto i.e. their head office publish the workshop manuals for use by their importers (Skoda UK for example) and their franchised dealer network. As mentioned that manual suggests the belt never needs changing (in non dusty environments). However, in the UK we’re under the umbrella of the importer, Skoda UK, who (for reasons only known to them) stipulate both a time and distance interval on the 1.4 TSI petrol engine, 5 years or 135,000 miles - whichever is reached first. So, this is where you need to make a call. Follow the workshop manual or Skoda UK. I was in this position recently with my 1.4 TSI, my 2018 Kodiaq is still under warranty, and so I need to follow Skoda UK’s service and maintenance requirements i.e. I paid the £758 for a new cambelt. On the plus side that same warranty also paid for the same leaky water pump you have, both done at the same time. I spent £758 but saved £520, and have the benefit of a brand new cambelt. No warranty and therefore no dependency on Skoda UK? Then whether you decide to change the cambelt or not (and when or even if) will depend on your attitude to risk or risk aversiveness.

Good start, but you would also ideally take spark plugs out, rotate engine in running direction until no.1 piston is as high as it can go, then check slots in cams are also now parallel to headgasket, to rule out a a chain jump just on the crankshaft sprocket.

I've just had the cam shaft covers off and the cam marks seemed aligned to my eye

I just updated my Navigation Database by downloading OI_P95_EU_202325_Offline_Update from the Skoda update portal and then following the instructions in the MIB3 pdf from the same site. After a 45 minute drive with the USB drive plugged in, the system went from 21.7 to 22.12.

He never mentioned turning the rear whites on, rear lights yes, as they don't illuminate on standard DRL settings, must read better.

Carista or similar will let you turn this on, it comes under Scandanavian Run Lights and is a 2 second change, so yes, I'd imagine a friendly dealer could do it. However it's easier to find someone on here with Carista or OBDEleven. I have it set on mine, might as well be visible to the idiots on the road.

Just ask for the software, extract it from the zip file to a EMPTY USB C memory stick, if you go back a couple of pages you'll find out how to do it yourself as I posted a guide.

Did you leave it in a forward gear on this steep hill?

Agree re the ‘nippiness’ of the 1.5, though I’ve never driven the 1.0. Bigger is better in my view - the greater capacity makes the delivery of power effortless, and when combined with DSG gives a superbly relaxing drive. And there is little, if any, penalty in fuel consumption. I can get 55mpg plus on a motorway drive half laden.

Hmmm. I’ve never had to have them fully refurbed as damage is localised. I’ve no idea where you’re located (it’s a good idea to add that info to your profile; helps in cases like this!) but i use a local mobile guy. His business is called Wheel Doctor, but I’m sure any mobile refurb Co with good reviews or, better still, a personal recommendation, would do just as good a job. The worm is caused by water getting trapped under the clear coat and staining the alloy. It’s a simple case of removing the clear coat and polishing the stain til it’s gone, then re-clear coating the entire wheel. Incidentally, the worm was located in exactly the same place as yours.

The headlights are operated by the R1 relay. High/low beam is switched directly in the stalk lever. However, if you have also issues with the fan (I assume you mean ventilation), it might be caused by the relieving relay (X/R7) or burned out fusebox (check for dampness under the dashboard)

Couldn't agree more. I test drove both before I ordered the 1.5, it's way above the 1.0 in terms of performance and very happy with the mileage, better fuel economy and as quick as the Ford Focus it replaced which had another 30 bhp under the bonnet, partly I suspect due to the 7 speed box rather than the 6 gears of the Focus

Assuming it's not completely broken.... It's a push in and slight turn to the right, it'll then lock and pull out. Much like this around the 20s mark:

Changed the bootlid to a Black Monte Carlo one so I gained factory tint and the little spoiler, de stickered it as it didn’t really go with rest of car. Swapped the gloss black badge over just going to try and rescue the vrs badge and take wiper off too at some point

@Umrelllaski now you have Bolero MIB1. Pls share your VIN via PM so I can check configuration details. Basically I do NOT recommend Android based units, especially if you want to drive this car for next couple of years. For OEM solution you can install one of four different glove box units: - MIB2 Bolero - MIB2 Amundsen - MIB2 Columbus - MIB2.5 Columbus You also need to replace display unit: - for MIB2 Bolero you can use either 6.5" model number 5E0919605H or 8" model number 5E0919605N - for MIB2 Amundsen and MIB2 Columbus you can use listed above display as well as 6.5" model number 5E0919605J, 8" model number 5E0919606, 8" model number 5E0919605M - for MIB2.5 Columbus the only display unit that works is 5E0919606D The questiona are what is ypour location, what is your budget and which of listed below features are "must have": 1. Video playback from DVD, USB, SD 2. CD playback 3. OEM navigation 4. displaying OEM maps na Virtual Cluster (Active Info Display). MIB2 Bolero - no OEM navigation, no CD/DVD drive, no video playback from SD/USB MIB2 Amundsen - OEM navigation, no CD/DVD drive, no video playback from SD/USB, support for displaying OEM maps in Active Info Display (Virtual Cluster) MIB2 Columbus - OEM navigation, CD/DVD drive, video playback from SD/USB, no support for displaying OEM maps in Active Info Display (Virtual Cluster) MIB2.5 Columbus - OEM navigation, CD/DVD drive, video playback from SD/USB, support for displaying OEM maps in Active Info Display (Virtual Cluster)

I mean when you go to a docking point to charge your car that has built in cables, what do you use… non genuine cables. the whole point of types for the cables is an international standard so they can all be interchanged without fear of breaking anything

What does the other end of the charge lead plug into, guess what a non Skoda charger Unless the cable is physically faulty, eg connecting pins wired incorrectly, or it shorting out, then this is just fishing for excuses.

Badges gone!

Just an average shot....

I was in Germany at the weekend & saw this superb with Alutec alloys that I thought looked pretty nice (18s rather than 17s though). The anthracite will look good with the DragonSkin I think & will look better during the winter with all the mess on the roads.

Or all the others listed.

You're all missing the point. EVs are much better to drive. Fossil cars are so rough and agricultural in comparison. I drove a brand new petrol Skoda recently - it was horribe compared with my Enyaq, felt like I was driving an old tractor. 🤨

@numskull, @dunc69, @lmb, @Lutz_91 - u guys would hate my Gandalf big time as I've gone to town with the Superb badging!!! Can't have too many reminders of wat model Skoda I have! Hehehe.....ok maybe I have too many. 😛 Fender... Door sill..... Steering wheel..... Door puddle lights...... Boot lid Lower grille..... Air intake.....

Just crap photography skills... you'd think for someone who used to work with manual 35mm film cameras I'd actually be good with a phone camera but nooooooo

For what it is worth, my personal experiment for non replacement of our 2014 1.4tsi 96k km is continuing uneventfully. Australia can be quite dusty especially the dirt roads in summer, and it has travelled on a few of them.

Not so much what I've done to my Superb rather what it's done for me. I've driven over 2,000km through France and the car has done everything asked of it. I tried to think of something that it could have done better and couldn't think of much. It'd benefit from Bilstein B6s and self levelling shocks at the back would be nice but other than that it's been great. 5.63 l/100km or 50mpg measured brim to brim fully loaded on premium diesel. The weather has been favourable so it looks reasonably clean considering.

Careful now, you'll be accused of being a newbie and not knowing what you are talking about.....

It's worth a peek anyway although hopefully the design on the mkIII is much improved. My mkII Superb had a lot of trapped debris behind wheelarch liner near the sill. My son has a mkIII Octavia and that is much better designed.

I've seen loads of these, but usually on old Land Rovers. At least they don't tend to rock about in the night, given common nocturnal tent fun.... After they've had a few drinks, it's also a lot of fun watching the roof tent occupants brave getting out, to take a leak in the darkness!

Without wishing to be discouraging, I have to +1 this idea.

If that's wrong, will the manufacturer pay thousands if the roof is damaged and needs replacing? Just buy a tiny and ultra-light Quasar tent. Up in a couple of minutes, and far more wind/water/insect proof than any roof tent.... Saves fuel, and less to get damaged/stolen than something on the roof....

Wow, what dammed good customer service, last night I emailed the dealer and asked about the missing engine undertray as they had done, prior to me purchasing the car, a cambelt change, water pump at the same time as Skoda recommend, a full engine service along with a DSG gearbox service and oil change, a new N/S headlamp replacement as the DRL had packed up (Xenon) and a new replacement N/S rear lamp unit, lens had been broken, new discs and pads all round. My thinking was that they had to remove the undertray in order to carry out the engine service etc and might simply have forgotten to replace it afterwards, so I asked them if it was laying around in their service bay someplace at all. This morning I received a nice email back saying that they had checked all of their records and discovered that they had received the car minus the tray when they purchased the car from Skoda fleet operations and as a gesture of goodwill, they were ordering one from an aftermarket supplier and having it delivered to me at home, a 145 miles away from them in Mansfield. What brilliant customer service and it is real treat it is to deal with a reputable dealer, especially after coming across their complete opposite in Heathrow, who even wanted me to buy a car with a huge crack in the windscreen and claim a replacement on my insurance, err, no way it was a MOT failure and a major safety hazard. So if anyone is looking for a decent 2nd hand Skoda, I can 100% recommend you check out the dealer where I got mine from, they buy lots of cars from Skoda leasing and always seem to have plenty of stock on hand, their details are: Radford Motor Sales Ltd, 337A Nottingham Road, Mansfield, NG18 4SG. Tel. 01623 652004 www.radfordsgarage.co.uk I'm glad I discovered them.

Hello VW & Skoda Owners With the help of Pete, I now have fully working Skoda windows. (this after I had replaced the front door loom) Pete's own working background is in complex instrumentation electronics, he knows his stuff and is familiar with the causes of failure of the front powered windows of VW's & Skoda's May I praise and recommend Pete to you 🙂 Kind Regards Paul

Cornering lights via fog lights activation . Bonnet open, ignition on, adaptation, ignition off, after all restart MIB 09 CENTRAL ELECTRIC · Leuchte 12 NL L B45: Leuchte 16 BLK SL B42_C31 Lampendefektbitposition 12: 38 38 Fehlerort mittleres Byte DTC-DFCC 12: 24 22 Lichtfunktion B 12: Abbiegelicht links....................... same Dimmwert ABC 12: 100 127 Lichtansteuerung HD ABC 12: always ........................................same Dimmwert DEF 12; GHI 12; JKL 12: 0 0 Dimming Direction DEF 12; GHI 12; JKL 12: maximize ...........................same · Leuchte 13 NL R B5 Leuchte 17 BLK_SR B4_A61 Lampendefektbitposition 13: 42 42 Fehlerort mittleres Byte DTC-DFCC 13: 25 23 Lichtfunktion B 13: Abbiegelicht rechts...................... same Dimmwert ABC 13: 100 127 Lichtansteuerung HD ABC 13: always..........................................same Dimmwert DEF 13; GHI 13; JKL 13: 0 0 Dimming Direction DEF 13; GHI 13; JKL 13: maximize..........................same · LWRKonfiguration: Static AFS light: ECE R119