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You can extract the files using 7zip. However to reassemble them requires a specific format. It can’t be done with 7zip. I developed my own custom tool set. If you make the changes you want to the xml files and send them to me, along with the original cfg, I will repack them for you.

“Poke n hope” diagnostics aren’t something that should be associated with any main dealer, I think I’d be talking first to the service manager and then to Skoda UK but ultimately you might find the cause a lot quicker using an independent transmission specialist.

You have neglected to consider that most if not all the circuits are fused and the main power cable from the battery (not the starter cable) has a fusible link. I say most because petrol engined cars by convention did not have a fused supply to the ignition circuit for believe it or not safety reasons, I'm not sure that it still applies today but it did in 1995 which was the last burnt out vehicle I was involved with, no not in that way!!!! In 84 I had one of the first Suzuki Jeeps, my bodged up wiring for air horns, essential for a young hoon caused a short which took out a lot of the ignition loom before the fusible link let go, the fire did not spread. The 1995 vehicle was a 2 year old Ford Galaxy, again one of the very first, I bought it as salvage as I usually do and it was burnt out from a loom fire which had taken out the whole loom and set fire to the dashboard and drivers seat, it was new enough to be a viable repair project. From the charred remains of the loom I forensically reconstructed the fault, a coil wire (unfused) had chafed through on the coil pack bracket melting the insulation on other wires in the loom, the high current fused the ignition contacts together so when the driver switched off and removed the keys the loom continued to melt, they confirmed this to me, the fire brigade eventually cut the battery cables. After that I saw no end of early Galaxies smouldering at the side of the road, always 2.0 DOHC petrol engines like mine, Ford were not interested in the cause or the safety of their owners, they said candidly to me its not really a Ford, its a shared platform with VW and Seat, the only thing we supply is the 2.0 petrol engine, the car is made by a Portuguese company called Auto Europa and badged for us, the adaptions for the engine including the coil bracket are not ours, its just rebadged for us. There was never a recall but they ordered the garages to fit a tywrap to hold the cable away from the sharp undeburred edge during service visits. I reckon most vehicle fires now are started by the electrical system, the fuel rail leaks on the VAG TSI's have yet to result in a fire. For me the safest vehicle is diesel powered, it will only combust when vaporised and then it will burn but not explode, its vaporising point is very high. Petrol far more dangerous as it will vaporise at ambient temperature and will explode in the tank. EV's more dangerous when the battery pack does go up but it may well take a lot longer to get there but when it does its a risk to anything around it. All of the above fire scenarios are fires resulting from electrical shorts, the petrol engine has the capacity to start its own fire from a fuel leak and a spark and the EV battery has the potential to self destruct through overcharging or an internal insulation failure. It would be interesting to see how much time the occupants would have to exit the vehicle safely with the same short circuit fire, say underbonnet with each of the fuel types, I reckon petrol would be by far the most dangerous in that it would spread quickly and kill a trapped driver, diesel quite some way behind it and an EV by far the slowest to reach a critical point for the battery to go up, by which time the burning plastics and dashboard etc would have already killed any occupant. Just my musings but I think NCAP should be as concerned about this as they are about crash testing, after all the Fire Certification bodies are very concerned about combustible fabrics in the home and fire prevention measures to limit the spread of flame and smoke.

That aint no cigar that monkey 2 is holding!

There will be Taycan batteries from accident damaged written off cars that have been tested and passed as safe and used again. Just as with TESLA and other manufacturers. Maybe Porsche would prefer that they were not but it is a free market.

Well I pushed the button. Now I just have to wait 5 months or so…

It is interesting and in the end he will tell the story and if his car needed a battery his insurance would be covering the cost of it. It is just annoying how clicking on his vids and linking them pays for the car he says has lost him so much money because he paid so much to buy it on finance. For him there is a Guide dog for the pretend stupid person in training. PS It really has worried him that the Battery Pack might be damaged and it was showing overheating but he just put off getting it looked at, posted a clickbait vid first. Brain for thinking and half a brain with him. PPS He is the kind of **** that when at Trump Turnberry just plugged in and left the car in the bay even when not charging. Also filmed while in the dining room having breakfast and showed others there how might just not have been there with who they should be. Did the trip to Scotland with not the smallest of genning up on chargers, charger speeds. This will earn him another farthing.

I shouldn't worry Colin. Those dealer health check sheets are mostly about business generation. I took our Yeti in for a haldex, and dsg oil change to our Yorkshire Skoda dealer 2 years ago because we had just moved and I didn't know how good the local garage was at the time. The technician came out and explained that a pair of bushes would need doing soon on the front because they were 'peeling out'. It's just been through its second MOT since then and neither MOT has mentioned as an advisory. I also had some new shock absorbers last week (at the local garage) and asked them to replace any other bits while it was in pieces. No extra bushes required ! The car has done 97,000m now.

I think it's important where you get your news from. So I took a look at three of the UK's most read online news sites. (The Mail, The Express and the Telegraph) It's interesting how many of the articles have a negative spin on EV's/ Hybrids. Interesting that they all seem full of the same sort of people/ writers. https://www.dailymail.co.uk/home/search.html?sel=site&searchPhrase=EV+electric+vehicles https://www.express.co.uk/latest/electric-cars https://www.telegraph.co.uk/cars/hybrid-electric-cars/

It certainly not and recalls are important and actually getting them publicised and the vehicles in and fixed. That is not well done in the UK and the DfT/ VOSA are far too lax. Outstanding Recalls or just notice of recalls are going to be flagged at UK Mots. Pity really the print out on a piece of paper is never looked t by many. more like a receipt than a MOT Certificate as was & many are non the wiser about advisories. It might be the case eventually that an Outstanding Safety Recall means a Major Fail @ a MOT, and EV,s that require Recall Actions can get an Over The Air Warning to the Driver that the car will immobilise in 7 days, and EV Dealerships / Manufacturers can get their Mobile Technicians out to the vehicles. VW Group had to put out Mobile Techs to get the Defeat Device Recall action moving a bit quicker. Tesla Dealers put out mobile techs.

I agree, this forum is flooded with what later turns out to be BS because people believe what a garage tells them. Check yourself by jacking the car up and lifting the piston rod shroud, that is the only way to be sure.

You are posting the horror stories. Please find the actual horror stories of UK EV,s going on fire while parked or the ones on fire because of accidents and maybe those deaths or horrific injuries from the Electrified car fires. 2 Briskoda members have posted about their Skoda,s going on fire when parked. No Briskoda members have posted about their EV,s going on fire, but then there are so few members that seem to have EV,s, or PHEV,s or Mild Hybrids. Maybe in a few years we will here of more sad incidents. That is not a high statistic / percentage considering how many Briskoda members have a Skoda and how many years the forum has been going. Even if it is 3 vehicles or a few more that never were posted about onthe forum. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/511114-my-skoda-octavia-mk3-got-caught-on-fire http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/457559-octavia-2014-diesel-vrs-thermal-incident http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/451182-never-thought-this-would-be-the-last-drive

@Graham ButcherSince this section started on EV,s and this thread we have all the media stories on EV fires and putting them out and the difficulty of that. Maybe the weather makes a difference in the UK and the chargers as to the reduced instances. It would be helpful if while doing your searches you could find the Local News or National News reports on which EV,s are catching fire in the UK. Surely they are there like the Vauxhall Zafira stories which were reported. like the BMW,s that were used as Police Cars and that Police Forces have stopped using. Has BBC Watchdog not done anything on reported EV vehicle faults causing them to burn? Not UK.

All sorted. It was a combination of trying to use the unit without my glasses and downright numptyness. Thanks for replying.

After some initial back and forth with some dealers over the weekend, Im pleased to say that I've struck a deal and put down a deposit on a 60 this afternoon. You'll now have to suffer my questions relating to wall boxes....

It's very very hard to make Diesel combust, it will burn if you add it to an established fire but otherwise you have to vaporise it before exposing it to an ignition source. VAG must have tried really hard to make self combusting diesel vehicles, as hard as they tried with the dieselgate cheating. I nearly wrote self composting, I must have been thinking of Ford, British Leyland, Fiat, Lancia etc!

I've just finished converting the boot space of my UK-spec 2-wheel drive Karoq SE-L trim from a space saver spare wheel to a full-size share wheel. I thought I'd put some photos here, in case anybody else is thinking of doing something similar. When I bought our Karoq SE-L earlier this year, I wanted to order a full-size spare wheel, but it wasn't an option. The only option was a space-saver spare wheel. But I read on various forums that it's possible to fit the boot kit for a full-size spare, it just needs a bit of simple cutting of a polystyrene piece, which indeed turned out to be true. I think this is only a problem if your Karoq has the VarioFlex seats, because there is a handle on each seat which is inaccessible if you don't cut off some of this polystyrene. The UK model of SE-L trim comes with VarioFlex seats as standard, and 18" Braga style alloy wheels. The Skoda part number for this boot kit for full-sized spare wheel is 57A 093 860A. I paid £77.50 + VAT from my local Skoda dealer. It's a very big box! In photo number 01, you can see the original space-saver spare wheel in place. In photo number 02, you can see the contents of the kit, laid out on my garage floor. In photo number 03, you can see the main page of the instruction manual, showing all the different pieces . The original boot cover needs to be unclipped. You just need to lift up the VarioFlex seats to locate some plastic clips. Twist these plastic clips then pull them out. Then pull up the material which goes underneath the seats, so you can lift out the boot cover from off the pins. You can then put back the material which goes under the seats and put the clips back in place, because the new boot cover is not held down by these pins at all. In photo number 04, you can see the boot well with the old skinny wheel and the old boot floor removed. This photo was taken before I removed the old polystyrene insert. You can see that there is a plastic tubular piece in the centre, which stops the wheel from moving around. I thought that the kit for the full size wheel would have a taller plastic piece to support the boot floor at a higher level, due to the extra height from the full-size wheel, but it doesn't. The new kit came with exactly the same plastic part which was there already, so I just left the original one in place. In photo number 05, you can see the polystyrene piece which sits along the full width of the boot space, between the seat backs and the spare wheel. The two protrusions which you can see enable it to interlock with the two other polystyrene pieces. This polystyrene piece shows a VW part number of 575 863 496 A. In photo number 06, you can see the polystyrene piece which sits to the left of the spare wheel. It shows a VW part number of 575 863 495 E. In photo number 07, you can see the polystyrene piece which sits to the right of the spare wheel. It shows a VW part number of 575 863 496 J. This is the part which holds the jack, brace, and locking wheel nut etc. in place. There are some plastic clips which hold down the right and left polystyrene pieces ( 2 clips each). They attach to some protrusions in the metal underneath. You actually need a large Torx screwdriver to properly screw them on, but I didn't have one, so I just screwed them finger tight. From what I could see in the instruction manual, it looks like you get a tool to screw them down with the official spare wheel, but I didn't buy the official spare wheel. I bought a 2nd hand Braga alloy wheel from eBay, which is absolutely identical to the 4 other wheels. In photo number 08, you can see my full-size 18" Braga wheel sitting in the cavity, after the polystyrene pieces have all been put in place. After I took this photo, I still had to screw down the plastic cap which goes on top of the tubular part in the centre of the wheel, to hold the wheel firmly in place. The Skoda boot kit comes with a jack and a wheel brace, which go in the right-hand polystyrene piece. The brace looked identical to the one which I already had, but the jack was very slightly different (the base of it was a slightly different width). There is space to put other tools in the cavity in the left-hand polystyrene piece, and I also put loads of other tools etc. in the cavity in the centre of the spare wheel. In photo number 09, you can see along the rear of the VarioFlex seats , where I had to make a cutout in the polystyrene piece behind the handle of each seat. I also removed a thin slither of polystyrene along the fully length, just to stop it interfering with the seats when they are lifted up and put back down. In photo number 10, you can see the new boot floor which comes as part of the kit. It actually has a Seat part number on it, which is 575 863 463 D CA9. It has some triangular-shaped dense foam pieces in the corners, to hold it in place correctly. Overall, I think this Skoda boot kit for the full-size spare wheel is pretty good value. You get a lot of stuff for £77.50 + VAT. If you already have a space-saver spare wheel, you actually end up with some bits which you don't really need. For example, you'll get an additional wheel brace and jack, and an additional plastic part which screws the wheel down to the boot floor. If you're able to get the pieces individually, the ones which you really need, if you already have a space-saver spare wheel and jack etc., are the three VW polystyrene part numbers 575 863 496 A, 575 863 495 E, 575 863 496 J, plus the Seat boot floor part number 575 863 463 D CA9. I hope that this is helpful to some people out there.

We are talking buying there again. Motability buy the cars, lease them and sell them in 3 years. Manufacturers own cars ultimately that are leased for 2 or 3 years and then sold as used. Same with Fleets, Local Authorities, Utility Companies etc. Then the Subscription schemes are what Boris,s supporter Lord Brownlow and others have invested in and expect to be big and it is supplying EV,s. All about Financial Services, Hedge Funds and Car Manufacturers that borrow money and lend money & need the turn over of vehicles. The Motor Trade / Used car market and financial services need the turn over of vehicles as well. Pyramid selling really.

The video was not there but i remembered what he said as i have a very good memory, and i just had to link the video. 2nd Video he says it is on lease. Then goes on about when he bought it. Acts daft for affect; Havers, as we call it in McMaster land, the land of Haggis which he had before.

I guess they work on the theory that a tiny match head can bring down a building? They probably don't know how secure the battery is inside the housing? I might have a look at YuuuTooob and see if there are any that have been short-circuited for enlightenment purposes

I worked the door Frame rubber with my fingers pressing it into the frame, didn't really feel it press inwards but my door now opens & closes perfectly without catching. Maybe it had become dislodge when getting in & out of the car?

Hello, I will post my experience with the local delaer in Romania - best would be to ask first. As mentioned by others, when I ordered my Octavia in Jan/Feb 2022, there was no reverse camera option for the Style variant, either by itself or as part of a promo package, like it is now. I could have gotten a reverse camera only if upgrading to Sportline or RS. As a sidenote, I remember I could add the 360° camera option to the Style, for a very unwhorthy price. Going back to the story, ordered the car without the camera. In March, when recieving notice about the delivery I contacted the dealer and asked if they would mont an aftermarket camera, they said yes. So I ordered one from Poland, because the vendor in RO (for the same very camera) was out of stock. The camera was mounted and wired by the Skoda dealer, under warranty and with an invoice to prove it, but they didn't calibrate or configure it because, and I quote, "they don't do VCDS instalations, only original factory software 😞 . So I went to the guys that do retrofitting here (the company that sold the camera as in Poland) and had it calibrated and configured in about 25' The camera code is 1EA980556F or 5E3827566A The company selling it in Poland is here, https://www.carsystems.eu/skoda-octavia-nx-4-gen-rear-high-line-camera-kit-retrofit,id4054.html and the one in Romania posted here, IDK if they re-ship overseas https://m.olx.ro/d/oferta/camera-video-marsalier-high-originala-audi-q4-audi-a3-8y-octavia-mk4-IDgxyf0.html?reason=seller_listing|olx_shop_basic allegedly and most likely, the harware is sourced from the Czech Republic, and it would seem likely that it would less expensive, but I was too lazy to search. Beware, it is NOT an original camera, but close enough. The wiring it came with, on the other hand was full of VAG labels The model I found also has a washer hole or something, that is useless for me as I dont have a wiper in the back. So my advice is that you talk first to both the retrofit company - see if they have the software for the camera - and the delaer, to determine this action would not void the warranty.

'S' for crawling along in walking pace traffic as well. Then come winter and slippy roads or snow on roads at slow speeds in town you can stay off the brake pedal pretty much and as you want to slow just move from D back to S and then into D to move off and reduce any wheel spin / slippage.

Yes. Finding my feet today and getting into a habit of setting off in S then once up to speed knocking it back to D. The actions of making these changes are just so easy and intuitive. Nice touch of user friendly design, methinks.

Have you tried a hard reboot. Keep infotainment ‘on’ button pressed continuously. If rebooted it will eventually come on. Take finger off ‘on’ button. Worth a try

Yeah, generally the only thing you can rely on with the newspapers is the day and date, they all have shown over the years to write what their owners dictate and go in for a lot of clickbait.

Greetings! I am new to this forum and I have a problem with my 2007 skoda fabia MKII. After changing the battery in the car, on the radio it asks me for an unlock code. How can I solve this problem? Thanks in advance!

That's what happened to my oktavia II radio. The radio went into protection. You have 3 options to solve the problem: Search on google sites that offer unlock codes, example: autoradiocodes.com Ebay : https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=skoda+radio+code&_sacat=0 Go to a Skoda dealership and they should be able to fix the problem. I personally bought it from the internet because it was faster. Hope I was helpful

The 25% figure will be from the same people that will tell you your brake pads / discs are 80% worn. That really is the biggest load of guff from the country that has no idea how many people are in the country or properties are subdivided. No idea how many people actually live in multi-story buildings. (eg Grenfell Tower Block.)

That is a possibility, I asked about the outcome as this thread has been brought up in another thread and I thought the answer might be a great help.

Bonjour et bienvenue Sebastien Gaz

Hello from East Sussex Gaz

Temporary fix, while you source a new pipe, use some self almalgating tape stretched tightly over the splits and joints. Doesn't stop the vacuum leaking completely, but safer to run than doing nothing. The non return valve in the middle of the pipe run will probably be shot too. It comes as part of the replacement pipe. My independent specialist sourced one from TPS for my BZG 1.2 engine. Cost £42 iirc and they fitted it for free, took less than 5 minutes, most of that being to find the tub of grease which they lightly smeared on the ends to assist fitting. The independent remarked that with some VAG engines (golfs came up), he found it impossible to source a replacement.

The dealer has confirmed that there would not be any cost but the only concern I have is dismantling something that is fixed in the factory might not be perfectly fixed back, especially if the team is not highly experienced. Now having said that, removing the center console speaker cover and accessing these speakers seems to be an easy straight forward job without touching the dashboard. Hence I might try getting this done and see if I can get ride of this noise for good. Shall keep you posted.

Apologies for the delay.Before and after photos of my sons now lowered Monte Carlo

Maybe an issue with "lane enforce"? George, Ashley Neal has similar feelings about it to I do, and for much the same reasons.

Hello all. After reading the whole 35 pages i think Skoda owes a cople of guys over here a hole months salary. I wann thank you guys for your feedback and expertise. Certengly you know a lot more then the dealers jus bi looking on the internet. My problems are the same (crashing of infotainment and restarting) there is a day without crash, then there is a day with multiple crashes in a short drive. My Ocatvia is 1.5TSI Style 15000km on the clock. Im on 1896 sw. Got it on 8/22. Been to the dealers 3 times now. First time they said they update it. Second time one service consultant said to me over the phone that they couldn't connect to Skoda and did nothing but other one said that they did update, and if problem continue that they will change the unit. Problems accur the next day. Third time they would not give a replacement car for free. And i sad i need my car back the same day. So they said that they couldn't do the update because i need the car back same day. And they were downloadin update for 4 hours🫨. With a gearbox problem ( it stick in first and reverse) and with infotainment i got another appointment on 29.08.2023. And the car has to be there 2-3 days. After raining hell on them and telling them tah i will come with news crew next time for selling me a car with problems tjey agreed to give me a replacement car for free. I just hope they will update my car to 1941. Because i got them several videos with proof of problem. My friend has a VRS 2.0 TDi he got it in 3/22 and is on 1804sw. He had one crash in total from when he got the car. But he is not allowing OTA updates. Anyway i will inform you of my progress after the dealers.

IIRC they do11kW single phase charging, which is a whole lot of current.

8hrs for an update?😧 What 🤬 are they updating? With a decent internet connection it takes a matter of minutes to download the 9Gb file (it was about 15 minutes or so for my connection), and another 15 minutes or so to format, extract and transfer the update to a USB stick and about 20 to do the 1941 transfer and update and completion.

It most likely isn't.

Printed all along the rigid bits 6Q2...

Will be interesting to see how the "Monroes" https://www.monroe.com/en-gb/blog/5-year-warranty-new-packaging.html do the boys in Inverness fitted to my Karoq.

The wife and I are Animal Rescue Volunteers for the RSPCA and we have just become proud owners of a Octavia Estate. In the last we we have transported 1 dog, 6 chickens, one seagull, 24 snakes, 6 Kittens and today 8 gosling's. And before you ask, no, not all at the same time.

@Newton_Durham - Well, if "enter brain" says to get the Octavia then the choice is clear; buy the Superb!

I can recommend "The Wheel Shop" where I obtained a space saver tyre for my Mk 4 Fabia. It came with good quality jack, wheel wrench and strong tool bag.

Virtually since I've driven this car, I had a "Apeman C420D" dashcam, its some generic cam; You look on amazon and there's thousands of identical cameras under different brands. I'll be blunt, it's a pain in the backside to use, and a new problem decided to rear its head that requires a firmware update. However who written the instruction manual may not of had English as a first language, and I wish to share this with you all. Interesting how 'TF Card' first search result was "What is a TF Card". In temu. Its just an outdated SD card. They were more than happy to help my on my first call, second time they were a little disgruntled. But I don't want to be waited. I feel threatened. If this fails again, yes I will. Via a brick. Through the head office windows. Now to keep on topic. Don't buy it, there are matching ones that sell for a 1/3 of the price and its wee bit rubbish for anything more than recording oddities of the road.

The 12 year factory warranty is for inside out perforation, not surface rust and if that work was done by a non VAG body shop then they would refuse anyway. The only solution is back to bare metal to expose the original zinc with chemical stripping, then sanding and chemically removing the rust (Bilt Hamber deox gel is excellent) probably three times and then treat the area, (Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80) to prevent rerusting, then a coat of zinc (Bilt Hamber Electrox) extending into the original zinc plating. Then a standard etch primer filler, base coat and clear process. You could do the knocking back and pre primer treatments above yourself and then have the panels professionally painted. The knocking back and treatments will need to extend right back around the inside of the arch (liner out) and behind the bumper by the look of it.

It’s been a while since I posted photos of Wile7 - he has had some new paint after a garage pillar mishap, and I’ve had to move to 17” rims and new summer tyres (Goodyear) for now as I buckled both 18” and 19” rims on ****ty French roads at Christmas. Car now has fresh MFK (Swiss mot) which was a bit painful (new front shocks, rear bump stops, two fog/driving lights, two tie bars and four tyres…at £180/hr labour 😳😱😫🤷‍♂️). Still, I changed the front and rear emblem badges as I’m a tart 😂 and gave him a decent wash. The chap scrubs up well and still looks great for a 2010 (had him since 2014) 3.6 awd estate with 194,000kms under the belt….

And another one of my Dad, this time with his first car... a copy of a copy of a copy... etc. Must have been taken about 1994/1995. Better photos do exist. I'll report back once I've got more.

did you ever fix this?