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Well no issues. 3.9 miles to the kWh up to Braemar. Scorchio. Roads full of motor bikes and camper vans and the car parking mobbed. Roadside every space. Straight on to the rapid in Braemar. Works fine but a blank screen but I know this type of charger well so do not need the screen, I know the beeps, and how to use. I will fill to 99%. I will have about 120 mile range in this weather in Sport and AC used. Downhill to get back home later and cheaper or free charging back in Perthshire or Angus. 47 pence a kWh in Aberdeenshire. Pictures later. Best driving roads possibly 'in the World'. MINI kept up with the bikes downhill and regenning. Issue was the All Seasons on the grippy road and the high road temp in the sun. NSL is 60 anyway. .. PS. Edit. That was quick. At 99% and off to play. Need to watch the Taycan and Polestar that seem to think the while road is there and you need to dive onto the verge or in a ditch because no way are the slowing down. Well they find out sometimes they need to or they have a long reverse to do.

Pleasant evening last night (and the first Blue Supermoon since 2009👍)

Mercedes EV coming off the Freemantle Highway gets dunked: As said, and noted in the comments, it didn't look particularly damaged, so I wonder why this one, and not other EV's that are being offloaded. Gaz

The battery may be too low to run the starter, but charged enough to run the lights. There may be wiring with the ignition in regards to the run lock system (the ability to remove the key and lock the car with the engine still running) but that shouldn’t put a break in the ignition wiring, at least, it doesn’t on my setup

That's normal behaviour, the Battery Management System tries to charge to battery to 80% SOC so when it reaches that the voltage will drop - until you get onto the brakes when it will go into micro-regenerative braking mode and increase the battery voltage. In normal driving I see the battery voltage go to 14.x after starting then drop to around 12.x for most of the time when driving, but increase again to top up the battery and when braking.

Wait until the kids have buggered off and you have so much free time you can indulge in all those frivolous projects you had in mind

sometimes we have to accept that time does not exist in enough quantity to fulfill all our desires... wait until you have kids and free time becomes a distant memory of a past life time

Here's a list of EV tariffs. Octopus isn't the only game in town. Unfortunately they all require smart meter as minimum. Be careful, some of those tariff have higher day time rates. Instead of go on comparison website to find cheapest bill, some spreadsheet work is required to find best deal for you. You need to know out how much your house uses and how much your car uses (rule of thumb can be 10k miles divide by 3.5 mi/kWh = 2850 kWh) You then find per kWh cost for each tariff and plug the tariff numbers in, day for home use, cheap rate for EV, to get a pessimistic estimate based on your usage, for each tariff. Intelligent Octopus: 6 hr at 7.5p/kWh for everything, plus extra cheap slots to get the char charged in the morning. variable Require compatible car or charge point https://octopus.energy/smart/intelligent-octopus/ Octopus Go: 4 hr at 9.5p/kWh for everything, variable https://octopus.energy/smart/go/ EOn Next drive: 7 hr at 9.5p/kWh for everything (I think), 1 yr fix https://www.eonnext.com/tariffs/next-drive OVO Charge Anytime: Only EV charging is at 10p/kWh, calculated as credit on the bill, works similar to Intelligent Octopus but end time reads like is more flexible. Require compatible charge point https://www.ovoenergy.com/electric-cars/charge-anytime British Gas EV tariff: 5 hr at 9.4p/kWh for everything, 1 yr fix https://www.britishgas.co.uk/energy/ev-tariff-home.html EDF EV tariff: 5 hr at 8p/kWh for everything, 1 yr fix https://www.edfenergy.com/electric-cars/tariffs Please post any I've missed or new tariffs.

It seems start-stop working perfectly fine now and checked the coding couple of times after restarting the car each time. Coding is not changed. I think during the jump start coding has been changed as someone said in this thread that negative terminal has not to be connected with battery instead in metal in the car.(I'll remember this for the next time). or may have been halfords guy didn't do it properly. I also scanned the car, no fault code was detected (cyl 3, random cyl misfire etc). Only problem is when the car starts from stop, it gives a tiny little jolt and reconnecting the mobile charger and dash cam. in this process dash cam gets powered off. Don't know why! but anyways, its cheap dash cam and also problem could be with it's cable. I am happy that there is nothing wrong with ignition coil pack and spark plugs. fingers crossed this misfire and star-stop problem is not coming back.

main problem with this is that by the time that happens my body will potentially be too old and breakable to do alot of the stuff i really want to do now

If the system thinks it's got a 69Ah battery, then it's possible your 75Ah would never be charged enough.

I'd check it after a day or so that it's still showing the correct details.

New code has been accepted.

If you can't find the makers details etc, just change the last 2 digits of the existing code number and input the correct Ah rating and save the settings. The digit change is enough to make the system understand the battery has been changed.

This is why most sensible ev owners only go to the sites where there is half a dozen, dozen, two dozen chargers where one or two chargers out is not so bad and even at busy sites on those rare occasions the queue moves quickly. These days it is rare to not be passing such a site on a journey and with two thousand charge point being added per month hard to keep up with all the new charger installs. Plus new evs are being launched weekly with 50 miles plus ie ranges of over 300 miles, than last year's moldels.

I don't get this fascination with stupidly big screens in front of the driver. As long as it shows the necessary information in a clear manner, then it really doesn't need to be any bigger. If you have too much information presented in front of the driver, it just becomes distracting. What hasn't been mentioned anywhere, and I'm quite surprised by the lack of, is a HUD... not something I particularly care about, but they do seem to be all the rage these days.

I only saw the added text you wrote here. The dashcam will not switch off as long as it is connected to a power supply. If you can see it switch off when your driving means it has bad connection somewhere on the car. It is not because of the battery or the alternator not providing enough power or else the engine would stop running as it needs power, much more than the dashcam does. It is beginning to look as if the best course of action is to book car in for proper check over.

if anyone is interested, below is a PDF I created of the various code changes I've made to my Superb (MY17) over the years. whilst some instructions r done with VCDS, and others with OBDEleven, the steps r essentially the same regardless of the tool - just the screens look different. this will work on 2015 to 2019 Superb. it won't work on facelift (2019 after) Superb, or at least there will b differences, which i can't assist with. enjoy 🙂 Coding - Superb MK3 - v3.1.pdf

I wouldn't be too hasty to jump to that conclusion, it could be many things, loose or worn out drive belt, bad connections on the alternator, bad coding of the ECU with regard to the battery information, bad charging regulator. The forum also shows your location as being London, UK and if you have been driving for 4 hours there tonight, it means that you had your lights on. It could even be something like the heated rear screen relay might be welded up so that all the time the ignition is on, so is the heated rear screen. You say the AC is off and so is the fan, which fan are you talking about, the heater/AC fan or the big powerful cooling fan at the back of the radiator? If you don't have the knowledge and the equipment to test each of these possibilities in order to eliminate them from the equation, you ought to get your garage to check it out. It could be that the comms network has intermittent connections somewhere in the circuit, or even a short circuit on the comms line of the CanBus. If you took the battery to the store that you purchased it from, and they tested it with a proper tester that applies a load to the battery and measure the voltage under the load, and it passed, then it is unlikely to be faulty as their tester would certainly have shown it. Just in case the person who tested it wasn't sure of how to use the tester, you could also try taking it to another branch, there are many in London to choose from.

It's looking like this is going to a new home with my best mate. I'm still helping with repairs and suchlike as he learns what to do, but the car won't be mine anymore. Not the outcome I wanted, but I haven't had the time to work on it, so it's only fair it goes somewhere that it can be worked on.

I really don't like that. Where's my driving mode button? More importantly to me at least, where's the auto park button? Where's the sunroof buttons? Opening the blind, raising the sunroof or opeining it fully or partially is so damned easy with the current multi function physical button - looks like they've replaced it with a slider control. Had a brief look at the opposition a few weeks ago as my car is coming up to 3yr and wanted to see my options b4 extending the service plan. I couldn't find a single car that could touch my MY20 Kodiaq. In fact I'd even have to compromise with the current MY23 Kodiaq. Looking at those photos, the interior is a step backward from the car I currently own. The central armrest doesn't look to be height adjustable nor does it go as far forward as the current one. We've also lost the dual glovebox - something that's unique to the Kodiaq and something I find really useful. Are the light controls any better than they are now? Current VAG light controls are so bloody easy to operate, the switch today has been in existance which seems like forever. The change looks like another step backwards IMO What's positive about it compared to the current car? The infotainment screen is bigger and... I'm struggling folks.

Hi, has anyone had experience or the Skoda all in one service plan? I know that you get: 2 services 2 MOTs 2 years warranty and breakdown cover however how extensive is the warranty? It is just a continuation of everything covered in the manufacturers 3 year warranty ? I would be interested to hear from those who have the plan and who have had to claim for anything on the warranty, and anyone's else's thoughts on if the plan is worthwhile thanks

No it’s not. 90% of them have never seen the inside of a bodyshop, let alone worked in one. They buy a franchise, get a few weeks “training” and they’re qualified. And the big boys dictate the standard of the work, the customer does not, with clauses like “as long as the repair cannot be identified by a lay person from 3 metres, it’s a pass” or words to that effect. Also, they’re worked on outside, even worked on when it’s raining without putting up a gazebo (I saw that this week in my road - another triumph of Chipsaway (“Like it never happened” my ass!) and with that the paint can get contaminated with dust, water et Al. They overcook the paint to save time, which means the outside of the paint dries but the inside remains tacky and that can cause crazing and shrinkage. And boy do they overcharge too. Yeah, a slight scuff on a bumper which hasn’t damaged the plastic is one thing; in regards to the subject of the OP post, forget it.

I think 'smart buttons' will be mainly a question of getting used to this change. I remmener my first drives with my Mk3 coming straight from a Superb Mk2. At the beginning, I was 'lost' with the 'Columbus', because it was such a jump from one generation to the other compared to RNS510. So many functions ands settings... Thus, it was much safer to do it when car was parked or stopped at a traffic light, because it required too many seconds with eyes off the road to do what I want on the Columbus. But after some hundreds of kilometers I got used to it and it's now very quick to me... Change doesn't necessarily mean 'worse'. First try and then decide whether it's better or not.

Hi, Many thanks for the tips Carlodiesel; yes well lubricated where needed after lots of cleaning first to remove rust and dirt; I spun the pins in the lathe to polish them before greasing; copper grease used throughout; one job I do want to do is to buy a bolt about 3" long the same thread as the wheel studs and cut its head off adding a screwdriver slot and removing the sharp edge; I can then screw this into the hub finger tight and hopefully it will make replacing the wheel a lot easier once the wheel is located then unscrew the new fixing; just an idea but these wheels tend to get heavier each time I handle them; it's worth a try. I use the wheel wrench supplied with the Yeti for removing and refitting the wheels but I've also made a 12" long extension out of steel pipe which is a nice sliding fit over the wrench handle; this is now full time in the car; when the service guys refit the wheels they tighten the studs so tight it's difficult to remove them without a struggle using the short wrench; every bit helps. One thing I'm struggling with is judging brake master cylinder filling level; I'm hopelessly colour blind which doesn't help and the Skoda user manual doesn't help me; it's not the easiest master cylinder to access; no icon warning on the dashboard but I'll get it checked for peace of mind; I'm very keen when it comes to safety; seen in the pictures I have two trolley jacks and the wheel under the car. Thanks Prezafab; I'm not throwing stones at DM Keith's I'll just not deal with them in future; I've never tried to cut costs but this brake job has been a rude awakening for me. Ideally I'd have liked to use Ferodo parts but over 50 years ago owning my own garage business I often used Borg & Beck so am happy to use them. It's my first time using A-Z but I'm delighted with their service; one pair of the new pads had the wear indicator lead fitted; our Yeti doesn't need this so I double checked with A-Z via a phone call; just snip it off the manufacturer fits this to all new pads then if not needed it can easily be removed; as I say I'm very keen indeed regarding safety. Having been treated like this I wonder if our discs would be replaced by worn out discs should I have requested their return then I'd have been non the wiser; customers shouldn't need to mark parts of their car for identification; I'll just walk away. I'd like a gallon of old used black engine oil and will visit the independent to see if I can buy a gallon to test the water; I mix old engine oil with diesel for treating our fences; it works much better than the products I've used in the past which I apply one year and the next year they are washed off; I like the smell of oil & grease it takes me back to my time in the pit. Kind regards, Colin.

My 2029 Superb has creaking suspension every so often most often noticed over speed humps as well. I traced it to the wishbone bushes nearest the drivers and passengers footwells where they attach to the under body. I squirt a few sprays of Holts silicone spray on each bush and it's squeak free for a few months.

Good work. I said that Skoda health check form should be renamed a BGF (Business generation form). If you had had them replaced at Skoda and insisted on the return of the old bits, you would have had a case with them.

Thanks for the info, sounds very iffy glad it worked out OK for you. I have a solution to this issue. Gen company coming out to me with new key. Programming on site. £230+ vat which TBH is about what I was expecting. Thanks to all those who replied.

I have a 1.8 kWh Bluetti EB1800, good lithium iron phosphate battery but only a 1k inverted and only charging at 210W via the charging brick, or solar mostly at the moment of a three 120W panel series linked and then a 1.5 kwh Allpowers with a 2.4 kw inverter and that can charge at up to 1.5 kw plus I have numerous 400, 200 and 100 wh solar generator batteries. The main purpose for the two larger solar generators is to supply the fridge freezer which seems to take about 3 kwh a day so by far the largest electric consuming items. I usually have the smaller ie 400 wh batteries power the laptop all day and I have a single solar panel to charge the battery not being used. I should get the router, and then when the telly and sky box is on but apart from the telly I do not think much in the house uses much lecky at all. With day time lecky becoming much cheaper soon I am going to be even less motivated to be bothered to keep faffing about with using batteries and hence just use them when I feel like it ie I am at hope and can be bothered. I think fridge makers should build in batteries to only run on the cheap lecky, from what I see you could easily save a hundred quid or more a year if fridge freezer have this built in. Nice to have the backup power if case of outage. These battery devices are getting cheaper and cheaper and now under 50p per wh even when bundled with decent inverters and solar generators.

Fyi, I had a backup camera installed recently in my 2023 Octavia Style because I hadn't been able to order it with that trim back then. They installed the original one, did the diagnostics, programing and coding, as well as the callibration. The whole thing is covered under warrenty. The official Skoda dealer had a subcontractor that performed all the work.

It was in a silicone key cover which I think is why it survived the daily 30° wash & spin cycle.

I had someone reverse into my car and it left a sizeable dent in the wheel arch just in front on the wheel. I went to a reputable local body shop and it cost me £600 to get the dent pulled and the wing/door resprayed. Because yours has damage behind the wheel as well, I’d suspect it might cost over £800 plus wheel refurb though that depends on quality of work. You’d not know that mine had been hit at all now. Worth paying for a decent repair IMO, though if you go through insurance, you’ll be forced to use an approved repairer (who aren’t always great but tend to be cheap).

They will most likely have more than 1 parts supplier so if you wanted to be 100% I’d double check with them and I think you’ll find they may not have used genuine parts for servicing

Happy with my Octopus GO 4 hours of cheap, currently paying 7.5p kWh but that goes to the 9.5p per kWh middle of next month so I am charging at less than 2p per mile of driving currently. This will be just over 2p withe the new tariff with my usual 4 miles per kWh energy consumption. Simple tariff and UK most popular one I gather.

I never managed to figure out how it knows which wheel is which. There are measuring blocks in the module that list things like signal strength and 'calculated distance' etc. I looked into it but never found a decisive answer on how VAG does it. I found generally across manufacturers there are four ways: - Direct assignment, i.e. you register the sensor in the position - Antennae in each wheel arch liner that is for that one sensor (I think FCA does this) - Using the ABS modules at each wheel to wake up the sensor on demand to figure out which is which - Some other sort of magic. Anyway all the howto's I read for VAG said put it in the rear, so that's what I did. In my picture in my thread, it was hard against the rear bumper-sheetmetal-bit and I had issues with the front-left (furthest away) dropping out sometimes, particularly when roads are wet. I moved the module forward a little bit with a 3dprinted bracket and it's been mint ever since. The other big problem I had was purchasing Chinese sensors, they all failed after about 18 months. I replaced with genuine Huf sensors and they've all lasted > 3 years now. In terms of why do it, before I had direct TPMS I checked the tyre pressures every week manually. With direct TPMS now I can check whenever I want without mucking around. Still have to haul out the spare wheel every month though so it's not a total solution. Could get standalone TPMS for that I guess but it's less important to me as I also carry a compressor anyway.

Well having spent just a couple of Euros with Ali-Express for a multitude of depinning tools and having bought an equally cheap kit as described by Pete of pin terminated wires and an unpopulated connector I can tell you that the world has moved on since you and I were involved with production electronics. Having tested the tools fitting and removing the terminated wires to the connector shell and having removed and refitted an existing wire from the connector on the car as a test that is how I know that I can replace individual wires one or more at a time, that way there will not be the concern about getting the positions wrong.

Not 100% sure, but PRoduction/PRoduktion code, I guess. One of a few dozen that specify in detail the way your car was made. See reply to your PM.

VIN confirmed PR-code KK1, which indicates R134A. Had it read KK3 instead, that would have meant R1234YF.

Coding out is simple if my factory Bluetooth module was anything to go by. I got fed up with messages coming up on the MFD saying it was trying to connect with previous owners phones, I failed miserably trying to remove the old phones and add my own, not that I really want or need the connectivity while driving. Then I fitted a Chinese head unit so the OE Bluetooth would not have worked anyway. All I needed to do was remove the BT module from the "Installed Modules" list and then disconnect it, if you dont do the latter you get fault codes saying that the now unknown module is trying to communicate with the Mother Ship 😄

Nah, I'm talking about self parking - push the button and the car looks for a space. If it's hidden in some menu then it's going to be like many other systems which are a pain-in-the-ar5e to operate. VAG currently have the easiest system in the market, it's just brilliant. I just push a button - don't even have to take my eyes off the road. Apologies, my fault - I'd downloaded the Superb dash by mistake. Can see it now., Ta.

Good news, very good news. I recoded and it's working smooth as silk, no errors whatsoever in a 15 km ride ... on my previous test with just 900 m I had enough to prove that the coding was not working and Travel Assist error was triggered on the cluster as always. Tomorrow I have to do the back and forth to worksite, 80km, that will be my real test ... but I am quite confident. In top of original coding for Travel Assist and combined with the coding for the Adaptative Line Guidance added: - CU44/long coding/Lane Assistance from NOT ACTIVE to ACTIVE. - CU5F/adaptations/vehicle function list BAP/LDW_HCA_0x19_msg_bus from CAN_FAS to DATABUS EXTENDED. Note to @Giannis20 I am afraid that it's not working with CC, you will need to upgrade hardware for ACC as well.

Goodbye old good gear stick 🙄

? Is your car set on FIXED SERVICING? Then you want the Oil changed and then reset to Variable / Flexible servicing Regime if you want. Be sure they have INSPECTION matching the OIl Service. To keep to the Service History showing correctly you can not just reset the 'Service Interval, but some places do because their error, if it was your error they would say they can not do that. ............. There only is Oil & Inspection Services either @ 12 months / 9,400 miles or @ 24 months / 18,000-20,000 miles, variable / flexible service regime. (Extended Scope @ 3 years then each 2..) There is no 'INSPECTION', that is an oddity that come up and is not Reset properly. ? How much are any Dealership Quoting for an 'INSPECTION SERVICE'. ? Have your Oil & Inspection Services Annually if it is a PHEV iV because that is what the Service Regime is on them. (1.4 TSI PHEV) As to the other cars / engines they are Fixed or Variable services / OIL CHANGES, depending what you want.

Goodness knows what is going on with EST. Apparently there is a massive backlog, 15 working days to process completed applications. Very frustrating.

Passed MOT this morning, taxed her just need to monitor coolant issues

That makes me feel even older - my first car was a pre-war Morris 8! Two seater tourer (rag top), given to me by my sister when it failed its MOT - cost me 2/6d for a new reflector, plus tightening up all the front (cart spring) suspension. Wish I still had it… (that’s it in the background in the pic. I’m on the left,sitting astride my 350 Norton, wearing my school uniform.)

I quite like the Subaru XV, the jacked up Impreza, but the petrols are anaemic and the diesel was only great while it worked. I've had a few Subarus and when the dealer shakes their head about the tiny battery on the e-boxer version, you know they've missed a trick. It could have rejuvenated the brand in the UK... Superb in snow and on rough tracks though, and a bit elevated.