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My 2018 1.4 TSI ACT 150PS came from the factory with 0W20 VW508.00 / VW509.00. At it’s first service the main dealer replaced it with 5W30 VW507.00. the 0W20 is all about achieving strict emissions targets. 5W30 is (in my opinion) is better suited for engine longevity. I use the genuine VAG oil called Quantum (manufactured by Fuchs). It’s called Longlife III and is around £35 for a 5 litre cube.

I didn't know the 1.2 estate would get to 60, let alone 62, my pet slug was quicker, and it talked!

Hi, A quick update. I've collected 2 gallons of old engine oil this afternoon; when I asked how much I owed it was free of charge in fact the guy was glad to get rid of it because it now costs to dispose of old oil; I can have as much as I like but this mixed with diesel at 50/50 will last years for the fences I want to treat; usually I brush it on taking ages this time I'll use a spray gun. This is a bespoke fence I made about twenty years ago when I installed the new pathway; it's made to suit the slope and made from treated roof tiling battens costing very little indeed other than thought to design and time to make; each panel is secured by four hex head 75mm long turbo screws enabling the panels to be removed allowing a proper treatment. The fence still looks like new because I treat it every three years or so. These panels cannot be bought; the acorn finials are wood-turned from the post top offcuts with oak capping blocks. Just adding this for interest. I never want anything for nothing so I took along a box of chocs on the back seat of the car which were welcomed as I handed them over. Kind regards, Colin.

Update - had oil service (i.e. 2nd year) yesterday and service desk phoned during the day to say that there are engine covers now available. 2-second whileuwait job but obvs has to be done by them. Its a pre-order item and have booked me in for...10th Oct. Stupid timeline for that sort of job but it is what it is.

Well, that escalated quickly. 😐 @lmbSome re-calibration is usually required between social media platforms and Briskoda.

Ah, progress! Thanks for your replies. I’ll stop trying to get one to show then.

No, the instruments don't have the software in them to display a green dipped beam symbol - in their 'wisdom' many car manufacturers have removed it!

I'd think it was added by the leasing company then, a quick google shows people with the same buzzing noise in Ford, Citroen and Peugeot cars so I don't think it's Skoda specific. If you have OBD11 maybe check this: https://www.vwvortex.com/threads/speed-warrning-at-120km-h.9109129/

Canton is a full active system, so every chassis has his own processed (filtered, time corrected and equalized) signal. You cannot use coaxial speakers as there is no fullrange signal,

I use Millers in our diesel Fiesta, but it's pre-DPF and I don't use it very often, TBH. I have found Millers to not cause any problems with pre-PDF Ford TDCI engines. (Mondeo and Fiesta.) Would I use it in a modern diesel? Probably not. I think I'd rather fill up with fancy fuel instead.

I did not know this. How silly!

What is the benefit to the engine running that way?

With the hatchback and some counting with a stopwatch, the time is closer to 13 seconds. Of course, it's still not going to take the skin off a rice pudding but still. You did ask. MPG-wise, I'm seeing anything from 38-48 or so (checked with Fuelly), I could touch 50mpg if I drove it like a nun, but day-to-day driving it's usually somewhere in the middle of those figures. Overall average over about 20k miles is 40mpg or whatever my signature says now.

Slug mode on the 2.0 TSI isn't so bad. (Graph approximate) Edit: That 1.5TSI data looks wrong. I have to cook tea just now but will come back to that and double-check. Can't believe it gets up to near 150HP at that RPM. 🤨

There has been a fair number of years now with 1.4 TSI & 1.4 TSI ACT with Cam belts to know if there is a failure rate. Globally. So a known known. (EDIT, Enough years of 1.4 TSI with timing chain / tensioner issues & denials.) Just a few more years and that will apply to 1.5 TSI & 1.5 TSI ACT,s. At present VW Group seem to be happy that owners can suck it and see.

Thanks @smipx I bought the car through Cinch (yes I know) and they have booked it into my local Skoda dealer so I am hoping they can have a look. I bet though, murpheys law, it won't make a sound so I will need to try and record it better

I never said they damage your engine. What i know is that people use them, flush out a load of carbon and get issues with their car and Emission / Engine lights and then ask what went wrong. What went wrong was their car was running fine. It maybe needed longer runs and a bit of a roasting now and dont run a diesel like a City Car. As to Winter Grade fuel we used to actually store it for running after winter. Because of it being less Hygroscopic and a higher octane. I love the stuff, love Ethanol as well with the right engine. Loved LPG for it,s higher octane. But then it took me years to get to know this stuff.

What's the improvement in economy on your Sandero? I <think> I get better economy by using 97RON rather than 95RON fuel, but it's been so long since I used 95 that I can't actually remember what my car does to the gallon on 95. I had 95 in my car when I got it remapped, because as I run it on 97, I get a little safety margin when it comes to the risk of early ignition and the engine damage it can cause. It's only a tiny risk as I potter around most of the time, but that's what I did. I have a sneaking suspicion that 97RON fuels have better additive packs in, but I've no concrete evidence to prove it and the extra ethanol in 95RON might be beneficial for my car with port injection, but I'm not about to overthink it any more than I already have. 😄

Fair point. However 2-ethylhexyl Nitrate is a common additive to diesel fuel https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cetane_improver - and I doubt that Shell/BP/Millers/Fuchs, etc. manufacture this stuff themselves, they simply buy it and add to their fuels. It is a very similar story with people buying Nurofen, and others Ibuprofen. I know some farmacist and they say that purity and quality of Nurofen is far superior to cheap Asda/Tesco Ibuprofen. Still, not a single Nurofen farmacist saw the manufacturing process in person. I have been involved into manufacturing, design, etc. for many years and have seen many things. And I understand very well that buying in bulk is way cheaper than manufacturing. I cannot prove anything, just like those who are against. It is just common sense. You can do what you are comfortable with.

Yeah, I can see that the Momentum is 99, fair enough. I am not sure where 97 came from, my mistake, you corrected it. You can crucify me now. Still, this has nothing to do with additives. In regards to 95 vs 99 - I do not give monkeys if it adds octanes, boost or magic ponies. I can see and feel the difference in my 90HP Sandero, car drives differently, has better fuel economy. As for the Superb - I simply cannot tell, however 41mpg on long runs is seen often. Bear in mind that on similar runs, Sandero can achieve 56-58mpg easily. Pretty good for a small petrol engine.

This may be a tad overdramatic in this context JR. The wire failing again is unlikely to cause any catastrophe, and many other things may have caused the car to be off the road before then.

It is a difficult one with so many cars now. So when you need Dipped Beam, Sidelights and maybe full bean turn on the lights manually, because too many trust to Auto and have nothing but DRL,s on to the front.

Taste.

Then whatever you do do not follow the bodge that Dimple has done as it will bite you back in the future. No form of joining should be done within the door loop bellows aside from a get you home bodge, soldering especially as any soldered cable subject to repeated flexing will fail. You can buy kits of the connectors and pre-terminated wires so that the joins can be made within the protected area of the door, any joins there should still be of a good standard, soldered or crimped and well insulated, certainly not chocolate block connectors or Dominoes as they are known in France.

Thankyou to Pete for his help, I called him on Thursday about an exchange motor it was delivered on Friday, thats better service than Amazon. I can only say what a service and a very nice guy to deal with. The motor sorted ongoing issues with the windows, it was returned and the exchange surcharge returned as soon as Pete recieved the old unit. Highly recommend him and his service.

If you mean between fuel retailers then I agree, if you mean between the fuel companies blending additives and a pigeon pouring snake oil that they know zilch about into their fuel tank then there is a massive difference. I cannot see any reason why not to throw €50 notes out of the window while driving other than to save not waste money!

Hi Ords Yes I can set and disable speed warning . When the speed warning is set and reached say at 40mph or any other speed there is a one off chime noise that comes on and not a continuous beep. Hi Micro I purchased the car from an auction. The previous owner had the car on lease so the log book shows the leasing company. I rang the leasing company explained the problem and asked for the a contact for the person the car was leased to so I could find out if the previous owner could give some input but due to GDPR leasing company would not give the details. However, I will call them again and perhaps may get someone more helpful to ask if the leasing company puts any third party mechanism in place.

Your failings are very endearing, @J.R..

@LeeYes you can coast in an EV if there is the ability to have levels of regening and you choose to coast and not retard the vehicle with regen. (A member mentioned on here taking the shifter out of D and into N for coasting & i said i don't even try that in an EV. really due to the type of the shifters and concern over making a mistake because generally they do shift too easily. You should not in error be able to go to Reverse, but until you try you do not know. if you did likely the box would ignore you. My MINI can go to Reverse while still moving forward and no foot on the brake which might just be good for J turns,) @lol-lolAir Source Heat Pump grants are up to £9,000 in Scotland already. There was an increase fro the £7,500 previously. @Baxlin Maybe watch the video on page 59. Not all EV drivers are shredding tyres / wheel spinning or wearing them out quicker than the tyres of the same size on equally heavy or not as heavy ICE vehicles. Because they can have a lot more torque / power not everyone uses it, and there are lots of not very heavy EV,s that are wearing tyres to suit the vehicle. There are cars that are hard on tyres, Skoda Enyaq 80 on the rears and Skoda Superb with Saw toothing issues because of misalignment.

Simple stuff first, check all the hoses are in situ under the bonnet, especially hoses related to air intake / vacuum. They should all be in good nick and no cracks (check them all!). Someone else will be here hopefully who can just look into the crystal ball and know, but i'd start there.

Up to the red mark(car was not straight or something happened), I removed some extra oil couple of weeks later.

(I'm away this week. I haven't read the last 2 pages, only 63) Scrapping 2030 pure ICE ban is nothing more than a political move in a bid for more votes. The 2035 date for zero tailpipe emission vehicle hasn't changed. As we discussed last week, the original 2030 requirement was not defined to begin with. The car industry are already well ahead with electrified ICE vehicles. Overall announcement, with increased funding for heat pump installs, I think this is a good move. Less money spent on government "research" and more money actually doing things. But back peddling would only influence my voting preference one way.

Thanks nta16, i just dont want to damage the dash, i will check out the youtube link.

I see lots of claims that $this and $that, but no actual explanations of things like the chemical reaction mechanisms that are implied by the claims.

Carpet in. And made my way down the country to get some bits off of this. Namely... Full 312mm 256mm setup off of it. And the front lines to boot as they're nearly new. Better than what I have. Did try getting braided lines but mtec had em on backorder, so cancelled it. Was going to paint them silver. But they were mostly green, and I had the correct green so. Quick hit of green. Also got 256mm rear heatshields to go on too. Getting there.

I been using Millers Diesel Power Ecomax 500ml and it been fine

Short answer: Yes. My preferred dealer (not my local one) is very good. I called them up, described the issue and they asked if I wanted a courtesy car, which I did. Was booked in for a few weeks on and when I went to drop it off was told by the very knowledgeable receptionist that "... you're not the only one." Also said that the technicians would need to check the VIN to ensure it was compatible. When I got it back, was updated to 1941 and not an unexpected reboot since - though there have been a few since with several OTA updates. All that was seven weeks ago.

When you say revving, how many rpm? It should regen at a high idle speed of 1000 rpm.

Hi All I am still experiencing a continuous beeping noise (posted on 12/8/23) in my 2016 diesel 1.6 Skoda Octavia when I go 75mph or above. The beeping stops when speed drops below 75mph. As previously mentioned: I have gone through the "warning at" and the "winter tyre speed setting" both these make a bong or a chime noise . Even if I set say warning at 76mph and winter tyres setting at 77mph the continuous Beep noise still comes on at 75mph, the warning at 76mph chime would still come on and the winter tyre speed chime would still come on at 77mph. I get no warning lights or signals on the car dash board. The car has also been recently serviced, tyres, etc all fine as well. I went on the motorway again a few days ago and still experience the beeping noise. Any more advice from anyone on how I can eliminate this issue would be deeply appreciated.

As to why they say take to stealer for full change - that's just to drum up business for their network.

Thanks, very interesting, but practically when ordering a new car there are only certain changes to the standard specification that can be achieved. Getting Skoda(UK) to supply a Yeti with 16” wheels when the standard Spec is 17” wheels took a great deal of time and effort, dealers would not even entertain such a change and I needed to go up the Skoda(UK) management chain to find someone who would authorise the change. Eventually writing to the MD who finally authorised the change.

The Yeti uses 7Jx16 ET45 rims for its 215/60R16 tyre size. The Karoq front wheel drive uses 6Jx16 ET43 rims for its 215/60R16 tyre size. The Karoq 4x4 uses 6Jx16 ET43 rims for its 225/60R16 tyre size. As you can see in the chart below, 6J is the minimum rim width for both 215/60R16 and 225/60R16. It's surprising that the Yeti went for such wide rims, ie. 7J for its 215/60R16 tyre size. By comparison, the Superb MK3 uses a 6.5J rim for its 215/60R16 tyre size. ETRTO approved rim widths 215/60R16 6.0-6.5-7.5 225/60R16 6.0-6.5-8.0 235/60R16 6.5-7.0-8.5 All things being equal, a 215/60R16 fitted to a 6J rim will give a more comfortable ride than fitting this tyre size to a wider rim such as 6.5J or 7J. So although a 215/60R16 fitted to a 7J rim may give a Yeti an acceptable ride for many, it is not the ultimate combination when it comes to ride comfort. For example, fitting a 215/60R16 to a 6Jx16 ET43 rim from the Karoq, should provide a noticeable improvement in ride comfort compared to using the 7J Yeti rim with this tyre size...all other things being equal. Surprisingly, a 235/60R16 tends to be a cheaper tyre size than both 215/60R16 and 225/60R16...and could be a good option on the Karoq 4x4 with a 7Jx16 rim...or possibly an over-size Yeti tyre. As you can see in the chart below, 235/60R16 has an outside diameter 1.3% bigger than 225/55R17 (which is one of the standard Karoq 4x4 tyre sizes). Up to 1.5% difference from standard is normally considered insignificant. Outside diameter of tyres 225/55R17 679.3mm 235/60R16 688.4mm (+1.3%) 7Jx16 ET45 5/112 57.1 has been used on quite a few VAG cars over the years including (so there a plenty of secondhand rims available, and new steel rims are still available in this size): Audi A4 1995-2007 Audi A6 1997-2011 Seat Exeo 2009-2013 Skoda Superb MK2 2008-2015 Skoda Yeti 2009-2017 VW Eos 2006-2015 VW Passat 2005-2014 Here are three examples of the 235/60R16 tyre size. In these examples the tyres are not over-specified for the Karoq 4x4, ie. not XL (eXtra Load) and not V/W/Y speed rating. By not over-specifying a tyre the sidewalls remain as soft and flexible as possible which helps to provide the best ride comfort...all other things being equal. Uniroyal RainExpert 5 235/60R16 100H (summer tyre) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m62b0s425p212999/Uniroyal_Tyres_Car_Uniroyal_RainExpert_5_235_60_R16_100H_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_C_Wet_Grip%3A_A_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_71dB Vredestein Quatrac 6 235/60R16 100H (3PMSF) (all-season tyre) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m139b0s12008p201646/Vredestein_Tyres_All_Season_Car_Vredestein_Quatrac_6_235_60_R16_100H_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_C_Wet_Grip%3A_B_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_71dB Yokohama Geolandar AT G015 235/60R16 100H (3PMSF) (all-season tyre) (All-Terrain tyre) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m62b0s425p148190/Yokohama_Tyres_Car_Yokohama_Geolandar_AT_G015_235_60_R16_100H_RPB_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_E_Wet_Grip%3A_C_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_72dB As you can see in the below two photos, a 235/55R17 gives the Yeti a beefier look compared to the standard 225/50R17 tyre size. However, I would prefer the 235/60R16 option in preference to a 235/55R17. Not only would the resulting 16" wheel weigh a lot less than the 17" wheel, but unlike the 235/55R17, the 235/60R16 is not over-specified for the Yeti/Karoq. 235/55R17 is often XL (eXtra Load) and also tends to have a speed rating more than H (130mph). This all adds up to an unnecessarily heavy and stiff tyre. Yeti with 225/50R17 tyres (top photo) and 235/55R17 tyres (bottom photo) Compared to the below 7Jx17 alloy rim (10.1kg) from the Karoq (which is quite a light 17" rim), you can get 7Jx16 ET45 alloy rims that weigh a much lighter 7.3kg (from Audi A4/A6 1997-2004) saving 2.8kg each rim, ie. this 17" alloy rim is almost 40% heavier than some lightweight 16" alloy rims. There's some dispute over the weight of the 10.1kg alloy rim, because the black version is listed at 10.9kg. So the lightweight 7.3kg 16" alloy rim may provide a even bigger weight saving compared to these 17" alloy rims, ie. a 10.9kg rim is a whopping 50% heavier than 7.3kg. No wonder the above Yeti owner with 235/55R17 tyres found his 17" wheels to be on the heavy side. 7Jx17 ET45 alloy rim (10.1kg) (from Karoq) https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/alu-kolo-ratikon-17-karoq/p/57A071497C+8Z8 7Jx17 ET45 alloy rim (10.9kg) (from Karoq) https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/alu-kolo-ratikon-17-karoq/p/57A071497D+FL8

Main Stealers are notorious for "up-selling stuff", by which I mean trying to persuade you to buy things that won't do any good, as long as they're not provably harmful.

Deffo not, just like if you see a used car and in the boot is some Redex walk away

Thanks for the help guys, the problem seems fixed now. I've changed the seal around the petrol cap last week and haven't smelt any fumes since. Once I prized the seal off it looked like there were a couple of big cracks which would have been letting the petrol through. I assume this is a fairly common fault, as the local skoda dealership immediately knew which part i was talking about and had a bunch of them in stock out the back?

We're jumping from side foam pieces to battery casing in this post, hehe. Both items are plusminus important and gives (at least) "complete" look of engine bay. My foams are cutted a bit' since I installed gas struts and throw away hood support rod with all it's elements.

Plenty of options for battery casings... Casing with upper cover is 5Q0915411E (cheap versions also on AliExpress). Existing casing 2Q0915418C is without upper cover (just side parts).

Just kerbed my RR black Trinity rim... Turned too tight (though I didn't have the impression of doing so) while driving out of a parking lot. 😬 Will have to wait for switching for winter wheels to restore it. 🙄

This winter the Blue stuff will be my answer to lazy exterior car care. 'Much cheapness', i will see how it does. Usually i use the Pink stuff which is just the same as Carplan Demon Shine as far as i can tell, it usually goes in a bucket of water or in a sprayer & does the job without any effort.

Got a Superb a few weeks back! Previously owned Octavia 4x4 Estate, then Octavia Scout over two generations. Spent time away from Skoda in Audi TT Quattro (didn't need the space) but now with a young child enjoying the space and comfort of the Superb.