Leaderboard

Taken with Pixel 6a📸

Thanks. I do have curtain airbags & to avoid them I ran the the camera cable above the head lining just left of centre & then sharp left to get to the L/H A pillar. It's not obvious from the photos but this route keeps it away from any curtain airbags. Looking at the uncovered C pillar there's a surprising amount of cabling going up into the headlining on both sides. New trim clips arrived late today so I'll get the last bit of the tailgate trim on tomorrow. Then a damn good wash & polish I think. Next job is to clean & paint the rusty wheel hubs.

I think it is a wry comment on OP.

I wouldnt say stress free, coolant is not a consumable and the level should not drop. Chances are that you have a leak so keep an eye on the level at cold only over the next few days.

Lovely end to the day earlier (and a couple of photos taken at the deep with an iPhone 13)

The Yeti stood out in a car park. The Karoq is just another car.

Doesn't sound right to me. Probably a mechanic unfamiliar with the variable output voltages of the alternator on these cars.

I believe that you will need to monitor alternator output over a reasonable period of running, under varying driving conditions. There may be an app available for this - I recall seeing a previous poster who did this.

A couple of Astro shots from last night. These are just single shot pics with a little touch up in the Windows native editor. I was hoping to get about 45 minutes worth of shots on Andromeda at 30" each to stack but there was dew building up on the lens so it wasn't possible. Dew heater now on order from Bezos. Canon Eos 250D with a Canon EF 70-300mm f4-5.6 III lens held in place at 135mm using a Skywatcher Star Adventurer GTi tracking mount. Looking towards the north American nebula Andromeda galaxy North Amarican nebula direction again.

Plus + for @ApertureScomment on keeping an eye on coolant. Please consult manual on how to do routine checks Tyres, oil, coolant - not necessarily every day, but on a regular basis. It is a common and bad mistake to simply rely completely on warning lights - the problem already exists by then, and may well be too late to prevent damage.

Good morning 😎

@Colin170CR- geez.....wat an adventure!!! Good u didn't give up and persisted. I just hope u don't have curtain airbags as the wiring u've run through the roof liner will foul the airbag in the event of an accident.

That is a normal reading of your vehicle has start/stop and the battery management system that charges on the over-run, I think your model year will have that but others will confirm. Basically it never fully charges your battery so that it can recover the kinetic energy when braking or slowing down through the alternator. Also when you took your before start reading you will have woken up all the canbus modules after opening the car door and bonnet, these draw a lot of current, enough to give a 0.5 volt drop to your meter reading.

Fitted a "Plug & Play" reversing camera. What a PITA that was Either it's my ham fists or just bad luck but it did not quite go to plan or, at least the plan I had envisioned. I was alerted to this kit by 35north who posted earlier on this thread that he had fitted a one from Ali Express £33.22 + Tax = £42.26. Seemed a bit of a bargain at that price so why not. It didn't start well because I ordered the wrong kit (C model instead of A model) so I had to re-order the correct one (I will be putting the unused C model kit up for grabs for the price of the postage if anyone wants it - problem is I don't know what VAG car the camera fits!). Removed all the tailgate internal panels with trim tools but still managed to break two of the clips - new ones on order via Amazon & yet to arrive. Removed the tailgate latch which was a PITA to get access to & landed up breaking 3 of the tabs in the process. Online videos of this procedure make it look like a breeze using just your fingers. I can assure you it's not & I needed flat blade angled trim tools. Installed new camera latch which I have to say was a bit or a loose fit. Found some pipe foam insulation & cut a piece to wedge between the latch & inside of the tailgate to take up the slack. Worked OK & no one will ever see it. Plugged in the camera cable & ran it loose to the front of the car to test it before removing any more trim . Removed the Head unit from glove box & installed interface cable & plugged in the camera cable. Turned on ignition, started car & selected reverse - nothing showing on infotainment screen other than normal Park Pilot screen. Damn. Check all connections & unplugged & re-connected camera cable at both ends - success. I somehow managed to break the locking tab on the multi pin latching mechanism so a cable tie was added to make sure it didn't come loose once back in the dash. I'm thinking that 2016 plastic parts are starting to degrade a bit. Well that's my story anyway. 😏 Disconnected camera from Head units & started feeding the cable from the boot forward. At this point I broke out my cable fishing rods, coathangers & other cable drawing devices. The LH tailgate cable gater (passenger side) is fairly full of wiring already. RH gater has more space but not sure if the camera cable has enough length to run down the drivers side & then across the dashboard to the glove box. LH / passenger side it is then. WD40 in the L/H cable gater made it fairly easy to get the cable through & fished down the rear C pillar. Then attached cable to my long fibreglass cable rods. Went inside the roof lining at the C pillar & much to my surprise found the end of it first time above the passenger door headlining. Fished the cable down the A pillar trim & into the removable panel to the left of the glove box. Fished the cable through to the rear of the glovebox, plugged it into the new wiring loom insert (yellow end in above picture) & tested it - all OK. Then I taped up the camera cable joints at both end to prevent them coming loose. Then came the most frustrating bit. After fitting the extra wiring loom insert supplied with the kit the glove box head unit did not want to go back into its housing. It kept getting stuck halfway in. Much swearing & contortion needed as I tried to pull the now longer bunch of main cable loom at the rear of the head unit to one side via a tiny opening above the pollen filter & the dropped glove box door. Nothing doing so there was only one thing for it & that was to remove the glove box. Removed the glove box light & upgraded it with an LED while I had it out. Popped the passenger airbag switch out but for love nor money I couldn't get the wire plug out of the back of it!! 5/6 screws later & more skinned knuckles the glovebox comes free which gives me the space to push the head unit all the way in & dress the jungle of wiring at the rear into the available space. Offer up the glove box & hold in place with a length of wood while & get some screws in - you need 4 pairs of hands for some of this stuff!! After a bit of "to me, to you" & more swearing having dropped yet another screw in the congested passenger footwell it finally went into place. Reattached the now much brighter glove box light assembly & put all my junk back in the glove box. Done. Test the camera again - all good except the picture is looking a bit dark. Ahha, remove the protective plastic film from the camera lens - much better. This little lot took place over two half days dodging rain showers outside on my drive. I still have to put the lower tailgate trim back on but can't do that until the new clips arrive tomorrow. I'm not sure if my experience is the norm for this sort of thing but it did feel like a major mission & it took far longer than even I had envisioned. The upside is that the camera kit was only £84 which includes the cost of the wrong kit I ordered so, not too bad all things considered. I wonder what the option cost was to have one factory fitted back in 2016? I found the website below that wants to charge £650 for retrofitting one to a Superb😖 https://www.avrmobiles.co.uk/product/skoda-superb-retrofit-factory-style-reversing-camera/ This makes my £84 look like a massive win & worth all the hassle & skinned knuckles. My car now needs a damn good wash inside & out but at long last I now have a reversing camera that my L&K should have been fitted with as standard back in 2016.

Evening all, i've been meaning to put a little blog together for a while... just getting round to it now. Picked up my 2016 vRS TDi up back in December after a change of job with an 80mile round trip commute each day left my little mk7 Fiesta ST drinking my salary in fuel. It was a great little car, absolute riot on twisty B-Roads, i'd got it up to stage 2 with Collins Performance, but sadly the long motorway commute just ruined the experience with it. This isn't my first 184 motor having had a mk7 GTD stage 1 with Revo three years ago which sadly lost its life to some idiot oncoming driver up north of Ullapool, Scotland, shame really as that was one great all rounder. I'd always had a soft spot for the mk3 pre-face lift plus the practicality makes a huge difference both on commute, for chucking the mountain bike in the back and getting up to the trails . First thing it definitely needed was the tyres sorting out, it had one PS4S on the front and then three completely different tyres on the other three corners. Previous owner clearly skimping out on traction before chopping it in to dealership... This made it feel disgusting on greasy roundabouts in December. So it was booked in straight away to have three other Michelin Pilotsport 4S's fitted. This is the second car I have had these tyres on and I can't stress enough how good they are! So like most of us who modify our cars the bug didn't take too long before I started making the change personally think makes the car that little bit better than standard. Work done so far: Tuning Box - Currently DTUK tuning box fitted although i'm not entirely satisfied with the delivery on any of the settings. Lowered with H&R 40mm springs 15/20mm H&R Spacers front to back On Collection: Lowered and spaced: Future Plans: Next steps I would like just improve on visual appearance and the handling: Looking at rear diffuser maybe the Reiger one as it is a little more subtle that the Maxton ones I've seen Maxton skirts I think really set the side profile off so these could also be on the card Maxton front splitter also being looked into, bit on the fence on this one still Rear anti-roll bar - although I am unsure what is the go to here, any advice would be great! Braided brake lines and possibly some higher performance discs and pads It may also end up at Revo...

Presented with a lot of warning lights the other day in the middle of a short trip - ABS, Brake, Power steering, TCS, ESC, AFS! I have a vagcom Hex Interface and was able to scan for faults. Came back immediatly after reset. I thought that it may be the battery as odd stuff can happen if battery is low. After much reasearch I was inclined to check the rear left wheel speed sensor - All looked fine - Easy to reach just behind wheel. Sprayed the heck out of it with some liquid maintenance and waited a while. Took it for test drive and all warning lights are now out. Thanks too all the web sites and utube info I was able to fix it myself and will be able to replace the sensor. New sensor ordered - Ebay. Hope this helps someone John 01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010 03-ABS Brakes -- Status: Malfunction 0010 04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000 08-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 0000 09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: OK 0000 10-Park/Steer Assist -- Status: OK 0000 15-Airbags -- Status: OK 0000 16-Steering wheel -- Status: OK 0000 17-Instruments -- Status: OK 0000 19-CAN Gateway -- Status: OK 0000 22-AWD -- Status: Malfunction 0010 25-Immobilizer -- Status: OK 0000 42-Door Elect, Driver -- Status: OK 0000 44-Steering Assist -- Status: Malfunction 0010 46-Central Conv. -- Status: OK 0000 52-Door Elect, Pass. -- Status: OK 0000 55-Headlight Range -- Status: Malfunction 0010 5F-Information Electr. -- Status: OK 0000 61-Battery Regul. -- Status: OK 0000 62-Door, Rear Left -- Status: OK 0000 69-Trailer -- Status: OK 0000 72-Door, Rear Right -- Status: OK 0000 1 Fault Found: 17158 - Databus U1123 00 [046] - Received Error Message Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear 5 Faults Found: 02846 - Button for Tire Pressure Monitoring Display (E492) 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent 00290 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor; Rear Left (G46) 003 - Mechanical Failure - Intermittent 00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent 00290 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor; Rear Left (G46) 012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit - Intermittent 01325 - Control Module for Tire Pressure Monitoring (J502) 004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent 2 Faults Found: 16670 - All-Wheel Drive C1113 07 [008] - Mechanical Failure Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear 16656 - Databus U1123 00 [008] - Received Error Message [New feature! Extended UDS fault detail is only supported by current gen. interfaces] Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear 01316 - ABS Control Module 013 - Check DTC Memory - Intermittent Left_headlamp_power_output_stage: Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1T0 941 329 B Labels: 3D0-941-329.CLB Right_headlamp_power_output_stage: Subsystem 2 - Part No: 1T0 941 329 B Labels: 3D0-941-329.CLB 1 Fault Found: 13705985 - Databus U1123 00 [008] - Received Error Message [New feature! Extended UDS fault detail is only supported by current gen. interfaces] Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear 17158 - Databus U1123 00 [046] - Received Error Message Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear

TVs stage 2+ gear box map and what they call stage 2 which is generally some intake Mods which I have listed: down pipe and intercooler would be the next couple mods:

I got fed up with the 10 minutes of advertising for torches and stuff, after 15 minutes he still had not got any further forward than describing a flying garage door in 20 different ways. I wont watch any of his stuff again after that.

205/60R15 has a smaller outside diameter than the standard Octavia MK2 tyre sizes. Try comparing 205/70R15 and 195/65R15. 5.3% percentage difference in outside diameter and 16.75mm difference in radius. Are you going to use a 6Jx15 ET47 5/112 57.1 rim? Also take a look at this tyre. Yokohama Geolandar AT G015 205/70R15 96H (Euro label E C 70dB) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m53b0s2481p148166/Yokohama_Tyres_Car_Yokohama_Geolandar_AT_G015_205_70_R15_96H_RPB_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_E_Wet_Grip%3A_C_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_70dB

Nope, never experienced it.

Having made about 5 failed attempts to update the Columbus navigation on my 2017 MK111 Superb I feel it is my duty to tell everyone how I eventually succeeded. 1. Download the "Map Update Manual" from the Skoda website- you will need the VIN number of your vehicle. 2. Scroll down to the English version and item number 2 that explains how to Format the SD card. The SD card needs to be at least 64Gb because the download is more than a 32Gb card can handle. The Format picture shows a 32Gb card using FAT32 and 2048 bytes. I used a 125Gb card and my Widows 11 PC would not Format to FAT 32 but uses exFat instead. So, I Formatted to card using exFat and an allocation unit size of 8192 bytes ( about 8Kb) and Label the Volume as SD Card. 3. Steps 3 and 4 instructs how to download the update zipfile and step 6 shows how the download would look on your PC. 4. You now need to unzip the file using an extractor. 5. You now need to drag and drop the files contained in the extracted download folder into the SD card. DO NOT drag and drop the Folder; only the MIB1 and MIB2 and txt. file in the folder. This will take some time but when finished Eject the SD card and insert into SLOT 1 in the car. 6. Now follow Steps in 8 and the system should update in about 1 hour. All this applies to using a Windows 11 PC but I suspect the procedure will be little different with a Mac.

As per @AGFalco posting, that is what I did back in 2015 when we replaced my wife's 2002 VW Polo, I think that I got quotes to supply from 3 online brokers, but, if you have a car that still has quite a bit of value, then off loading that first some way out with the dealership chain must be the way to go, if I were you I'd be approaching a dealership for a price to hand that car over and walk away, doing that will get you see how little you can claw back by doing that!

My apologies to George, you are absolutely right. The post should have been in either the general section or the Mark 4 Fabia section, Thanks AG Falco for your very thought provoking post. I found your post to be very helpful and I will be following your advice.

I second toots theory on TDI's. Most who get diesels don't need a diesel and are potentially going to suffer with dpf issues. For your commute you may well get good economy but the added cost of diesel, the extra burn to warm up and the added fuel use for dpf burn.... I'd be looking at the 1.4 TSI. It's a peach of an engine and should get similar running costs to the 1.6 if driven right.

Vcds will just report the same voltages as you’ve measured.

I am a taxi driver so most of my runs are short but I do big runs too. I’m going to hook up vcds and check what voltage I’m getting. I will report back shortly.

@toot I had read that the recommendation was to always put the new tyres on the rear. Hence moving the new tyres to the rear and putting the old ones on the front. I'll see how it goes. I'll probably end up getting new tyres on the front as well .

There's an aux heater in car that runs off battery. Don't think is same standard as a heat pump on the full evs. You can use it to warm car up via app before you get into it

Hello @Aakayamy are you able to get a load or condition test on your battery? 12.22 VDC reading under your assumed mustimeter test conditions is probably ok - just a little undercharged, do you do a lot of relatively short runs? Do you know if the battery is the original one fitted? Be aware that a battery adaptation should be done if the battery is replaced.

Thank you it's a shame his comparison at the end is slightly flawed The airstream 534 and Navaro combination. The airstream weighs 1645kg with payload included puts 1800kg compared to the caravan he ended up towing in the video His miles per kw relies on a significant amount "free" and the price of diesel has dropped Public ev charging https://www.carwow.co.uk/guides/running/cost-of-running-an-electric-car Taking that into account the figures are not so impressive and adding in the messing about unkooking to charge i am not sure it would be enjoyable. I think i will wait for better infrastructure before going full ev Still tempted by a mhev or phev though if i can find one?

Bump for @Stonekeeper Bays / chargers with cables like this are not common but there are once around in Scotland.

Mine is on most of the time as it helps to stop the screen misting etc in the cooler and colder months, in summer its on and I need it but do then notice the extra fuel consumption, if its really hot and I have chosen to drive with the windows open then I will switch the AC off, mine is the standard Climatic so no ECON setting, I have to switch off the AC button. And again I think it defaults back to AC the next time I start the vehicle.

You mean inside the lower glovebox, just below the control dial for the glovebox chill? I've had my car for 3years and you know what, I never saw that button before. I haven't frigg'n clue. At first I thought it was the switch for the glovebox interior light but it doesn't appear to touch the glovebox lid when it closes. It's on a spring so doesn't feel like an on/off button and it twists like a volume knob. Had a look thru the .pdf owners manual - can't see anything. It might well be an ejector seat 😲 EDIT: Had a look at pics on Google of other Skoda gloveboxes - haven't come across a picture of any other Skoda models with this button so seems unique to Kodiaq. It's below both glovebox buttons so just wondering if in some way it controls the upper glove box - a locking mechanism or something?

Not just you, I dont want a tea tray sticking up from the dashboard and I dont want to be distracted having to look at it to use functions of the vehicle that I have been able to do by touch and not sight in every vehicle since I started driving. Not only is it a step back but dangerous for me having sight in only one eye, and dangerous for all those who cant remove their eyes from their phones as they will cast them to the screen or whatever its called probably making themselves legal (and lethal!) in the process. On a more practical level I often carry 3m lengths of building materials like steel stud plasterboard framing rails inside the vehicle supported on the dashboard, passenger seatback and rear loading floor I protect the windscreen with foam that I carry under the boot floor. The teatray would be in the way and if it got hit by shorter stuff when breaking or when loading the 3m stuff either side I would have a £500 bill, probably a £1000 one for a part they pay maybe £40 for. It aint gonna happen!

I doubt you could or @lol-lol but then maybe you are a very good driver. EDIT, Aaa i see humour! Clarkson did it in the Jag and then Sabine did in the Jag and then there was the van challenge.

Many thanks all for your support, very reassuring. Just got 1L of pre mix at VW dealer just before they closed and topped up to halfway between Min and Mac líne. Phew. Friday evening, can relax now and drive stress free. Thanks again all.

They are sooooo comfortable, one of the only seats i've never got back pain in.

I can only imagine Skoda are getting confused between high beam assist and matrix headlights.... I've never heard of high beam assist needing a specific headlight, all it does is turn the high/main beam on and off

Based on your other threads, you have lane assist. Therefore, the camera is capable of high beam assist, it should just need activating. You don't need anything from Kufatec, you need to find someone local with VCDS or OBDeleven who can check what control modules you have and recode them. In this forum is both a map and a list of members who have VCDS. Based on you mentioning Cornwall, @PetrolDave is probably one of the closest to you...

All this increased HP and performance that EV's have is also having the effect of pushing up insurance premiums, not only because of the increased likelihood of a car being written off if there is a chance that the battery might have suffered damage in the accident, but also because of the increased performance in acceleration terms over that of an ICE car of the same HP rating. We really do need to look at restricting the performance of cars full stop, we don't have the roads capable of using the performance, so it makes a mockery out of having all of that power, and that goes for ICE and also EV powered cars

When Audi do the long distance EV promoting thing they just cheat and drop off Portable Battery Charging units where there are no chargers and fail to mention that in their vids or publicity. Thank goodness for a Journalist maybe not in the Corporate pocket.

Really bad idea, if the engine is low in coolant engine will almost certainly overheat and could cause very serious damage to it.

Surely by now ICE vehicles at revenue weight in the UK even in the coldest weather should be able to achieve 50 MPG, especially ones not even Family / Taxi size. There are big diesels that get 60 plus MPG even over 70 mph. The Manufacturers were never really trying very hard over the past 30 years to reduce emissions and improve economy / fuel consumption with lots of their ICE vehicles. They were building them to achieve WLTP & RDE2 results in the past 8 years or so. There are some good mile munchers out there and some atrociously poor performing City size, small & medium and large cars about for sale new, and lots of Mild Hybrid and PHEV kidology going on. All this allowed by the EU including the UK. The pathetic inefficient EV,s that are available is just as ridiculous.

I use Millers one (but for petrol) - https://www.millersoils.co.uk/products/petrol-power-ecomax-2/ - they do for diesel as well: https://www.millersoils.co.uk/products/diesel-power-ecomax-one-shot/ I cannot see a reason why not to use it, other than to save some money.

Speaking of speaker ratings for the Canton system in the Superb......

Had a play with the AI regenerative tools in Photoshop. A before and after below.

Before After Difference is subtle, unfortunately I haven't been able to get any great photos before and after. I'm happy with the ride comfort and it was definitely worth the effort however. Would I get the garage to do it if I had to do it again? Yes, but budget a good £500-600 for parts that would need replacing and labour needed.

I just need the car and the caravan and that will be me charging the car free at supermarkets and powering the caravan. I am only about £55,000 short of living the cheap life.

Update on the Anti-Roll Bar: It's definitely made a big difference to the handling characteristics of the car. Now that roads have dried off a bit - had a chance to test it out. Car feels so much flatter through the bends and that whollowing feeling (if it could be described as that) is reduced massively. Well worth the money and reasonably cost effective. Car had a good clean and detail a couple of weekends ago with some Dodo Juice Orange Crush applied, gave the paint quite a bit of pop! Here some shots of the motor with its skirts, diffuser and new wheels on show. At the moment not sure what else to really do to it, would love to put black and blue badges and the red and black VRS badges on from Superskoda, but cant justify the price (40Euros for a badge is a bit excessive like) Currently weighing up on whether or not to ditch the OEM shocks and H&R springs for BC Racing Coilovers to get the heights exactly how I really would like it to be. H&R Springs are fantastic but don't give the drop I would really like - which is only a little lower that what it is currently. Still on the fence to take the plunge back into the coilover world