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I have had my Zoe EV 2 years and done 15k miles in it and it is more pleasant to drive than similar 135-ish hp cars I have had. I drive it a hundred times or more a year and it is,logically, the car of choice in and around town. Doesn't need to warm up, I feel no issue flooring it 300 yards outside my house as there is no engine oil to warm up etc. Have used it many times for journeys of 120 miles or so ie Worcester to Heathrow and whilst I have always manager to get a get some charge at my office there, bank of ten chargers, I could make it home without charging if needed, just need to adapt, ie slow down to 50-55 mph where the battery use is very much lower and take a detour thru the Cotswolds rather the Motorway which saves more than 15 miles so assures me of getting home. If I wanted to charge there are more than 100 chargers, mostly rapid DC ones, at Banbury so a 10 or 15 minute stop would top me up and I use my Octopus Electroverse card so get a discount on the quite high standard charge rates and the cost is billed to my home account which is in credit so no instant cost to me for charging then and there. One pain is the Zoe battery pack means to height seat adjustment, only back and forward and steering wheel up and down. Zoe has over the air Google satnav which is great. Nearly exclusively charge at night at home which was 7.5p per kWh and is now 9p per kWh so energy is costing me about 2p a mile. Had two services, first A service was £99 and second B service was £120. Personally have no concerns about it catching fire but aware that thermal runaway can occur if battery cells were subjected to massive external heat or catastrophic collision resulting in rupture. No more worried with that than carrying 10 gallons of petrol in my tank. As well as the Zoe, ZE 50 Riviera, I have a mild Hybrid Arkana (Samsung, bult in South Korea) and son has a brand new Clio ETECH full hybrid but is not a PHEV. Both are a really pleasure to drive for me who does more than 25,000 miles a year. Like the full EV the hybrids have great torque and being auto are very relaxing to drive and have plenty of pickup but also both do about 60 mpg in mixed driving, can do 70 mpg in relaxed A road and motorway driving. Nice to have them and the assurance one can drive 500, 600 miles without any need for stopping and charging, filling up. EV benefit from massive UK government incentives, particularly salary sacrifice on the PCP which can give 42% reduction in the lease cost putting many cars in to people financial range. TESLA model 3 and Y and even Audis and dare I say Porsche, not that I would go down that route. UK EV charging network improving by the month and new charging place, often with 6 chargers or more popping up all over England and Wales I can see. No regrets getting the Zoe although the second hand prices have fallen a lot as Renault put a lot of ex PCP Zoes on to the market. Battery degradation seems very low. Very happy I have an EV in the fleet. Would I want to have just a EV or EVs, no. Range is not quite there for cheaper EVs but is getting there and offerings in a couple of years I think will be. Road tax currently zero and will only move to about £20 a year in 2025 so I am sure running cost will continue to be very low. Zoe will need a new lead acid 12v battery next year or in fourth year so cost of that £100 or so. Worrying that fuel prices seem to be heading back up to £2 a litre again and when I put petrol in the Arkana and Clio it sounds lack a lot if money to put £70 or even £50 respectively compared to the Zoe £5 which gets me 230 miles or so but I need to charge up two or three more often than I fill up of course. Good to have a choice of electricity or petrol to use but that is perhaps quite unusual to have that option. Most of the press I hear about EV hassles and worries and not ones I experience or share. It is, however, worrying that China seems to have got the technological jump as well as sourcing of lithium and manufacturing of car battery packs. I can see trade issues with this with Anti-Dumping Duties in to EU and UK to try and get Europe to catch up. TESLA looks like it will mop up much of the car market and in fact vehicle charging too as it has a brilliant rollout strategy, should be good for consumers. Bring it all on.

I'd be keeping an eye on that if I were you.

All new build Houses should only pass planning with a fully south facing roof/solar panels and a power bank. Should have been done years ago if Government had been serious about clean energy

The Government keeps paying money to car manufacturers and steel manufacturers to stay and provide jobs. They get in taxes and never anything like they are dishing out. They spend more keeping people employed than just paying them not to work, but they want TATA Steel and others as part of the UK,s Pyramid selling type economy. As with energy, oil & gas & electricity, utilities, water / sewage and all the rest they somehow can not be run to make a profit and pay a fair share in taxation on profits but manage to have their costs very very high with the best salaries for those at the top, lots and lots of wonderful lifestyles and even sponsoring some of the top sports people in the world or events as advertising for their amazing corporations that need hand outs all the time.

Use to stay those that can't teach but I think it should be some of those who cannot go into local and national government.

Aberdeen can not keep theirs open with a fleet of wind turbines just off the beach and a city that is going all in with Green Hydrogen to power boats dock side . There is something far wrong when the find farms are not putting enough money back into the community but lots to land owners. There are community projects where the community invested and got part of the income. The Councils with the biggest cuts coming are really run by people that are not capable of running a car wash or window cleaning business where they would be the sole employee.

You would have thought getting a heat pump installation would be the right action to keep the pools open. One cleverly combined a local data centre, with all their waste heat to help keep the swimming pool open. Rare joined up thinking.

This is another problem, the need for subscriptions, cards, apps etc, why the hell can they not be treated just like any petrol filling station, open to all and able to pay electronically or with cash instead of having virtually closed/restricted access unless you have the required car/app/subscription to allow you to access the energy at a fair and standard rate for all.🤔

National Grid myth busting article https://www.nationalgrid.com/stories/journey-to-net-zero/electric-vehicles-myths-misconceptions

To be fair, Nissan/Renault did provide the initial capital expense for the (back then Ecotricity, now Gridserve) Electric Highway charge points. Back in 2017-2019, driving Leaf beyond home range relying on Electric Highway was not much of problem, if you don't mind stopping to recharge every hour of driving. Also, there is currently concern by some UK EV drivers that Tesla are building too quickly and not always opening up to non-Tesla cars. This means the grid capacity is used up and pushing up installation cost/time for other (usually smaller) charge point operators. I still think slow destination charging is the answer to EV adoption. Rapid charging should only be needed en-route somewhere. It enables cheaper charging and maximises EV convenience benefits. Yes, the problem is not every parking space is suitable for charge point install and it requires a large change in user mentality. Both are very difficult problem to solve in span of a few years.

People not understanding Mr Musk seems to make them fearful when he is clearly driven by perfecting the products he sells are stepping stones to his new world vision and he does it as he is addicted to hard work and achieving goals and then moving on to the next major goal. To understand Mr Musk it is not just his product is technically advanced but so is his production techniques which make the legacy manufacturers look like the are still stuck in their old ways and have forgotten what Fred Winslow Taylor and Henry Ford did. Elon appies his, and his teams principals, to their car production and the rollout of the Super Charger network and the mega battery packs. Each is an application of KISS, Keep it Simple Stupid. His cars have less parts due to the Giga presses, builds a car in a third of the time others do, Super Chargers are in sets of half dozen craned off the delivery lorry in to place and plugged in to the three phase high amperage network. Mega packs similarly no doubt. Grid serve must be worried when someone comes along and sells power at two thirds the price to them and the small EV charge suppliers must hope that TESLA do not setup a charging hub anywhere near their installations. TESLA will dominate the market for charging within a couple of years at current rate, if they can get sites with the right grid connection. All good for us EV drivers looking for reliable and cheapest charging, I can see me getting a TESLA account quite soon. Just need the model 3 to drop below the luxury car tax banding ie £40K RRP and it then has to be an EV at the top of the list to acquire.

This is pretty much the truth about EV,s. One side of the story but it is very true. There are lots of CEO,s that so have their head in the sand.

I've only started reading this topic in the past few months and didn't start at the beginning. It's 72 pages long now and you know what? I still don't know what the truth about electric cars is other than they don't use an internal combustion engine (Hybrid excluded)

For Sale My Skoda Fabia Mk1 VRS £1,600 Mine for 8 years I think now, the guy I had it off had it for 8 I think. (I still have his original advert from when I bought it actually). I used it as a daily driver for many years before replacing it with another TD 1.9 Turbo car, my Audi. It has been reliable, nippy and cheap to run. I took it off the road in 2022 to get some of the jobs done, hoping the Audi would see me through until I got all the Skoda jobs done, but as I now have 5 cars and space for 3 I have to get one of them sold and that’s the Fabia. Over the past 12 months I’ve welded all the corrosion on the sills, primered, stone chipped and then sprayed. I've replaced the torq screws here and there on the inner wing liners. I'll be waxoyl-ling the sill cavities next week. Resprayed the bonnet in solid gloss black and front and back bumper in 2K base and lacquer, same as the sills. Interior is standard and better than most with seats unripped. Suspension has new Eibach Pro lowered springs 25mm, new at the front and rears have been on about 6,000 which came out the same kit for all 4 corners. Bilstein rear dampers have also seen 6,000 miles. The front has Bilstein B8 Sprint Shocks which I’ve repainted as they were getting a bit scruffy. New Meyle upper bearing cups and Meyle mounts on the front dampers. I replaced the front drop links about 3 years back. New vented brake upgrade kit discs, with TT calipers and new pads. Repainted and powder coated callipers. New disc backplates and bolts all round. A new FEBI front hoses on the one side and new FEBI steering rack rubbers. New FAI trackrod ends, new front wishbones with ball joints (I think both FAI), new MEYLE HD Cupra Cup type, console bushings. New rear caliper handbrake springs. Battery is a recent Exide 77ah one with a 5 year guarantee that I’ve had, 2 years? Paintwork is good-OK, there’s a scratch on the drivers door that was there when I bought the car and is/was on my to-do list. I’ve polished the rest of the panels, a few minor dings but nothing nasty. There’s stone chips of the tops of the wings that could do with being done at some point. Some scuffs on the NS passenger mirror. Exhaust is fine, had regular oil changes with Castrol Magnatec, the car had a remap and comes with the SHARK box to send to the ECU or revert to stock tune. With this is idles a bit uneven but never in the many years on the road was it an issue. What needs doing? I had the steering rack replaced 5-6 years ago but as it’s leaking it will want another one. As I’ve replaced both trackrod ends, it will want re-tracking too. Some broken plastics in the engine bay around the battery tray, cosmetic stuff really. Is it mint? No, but it’s better than most, been cared for, never stolen or crashed unlike a lot of Fabia VRS’s and it hasn’t been thrashed in the last 15 years. Pretty much stock looking just a little lower. All the replaced parts are quality as I was planning on keeping the car and I don’t have to sell it but space is more the problem. Years worth of receipts. I’ve kept everything and the previous owner kept most! Wheels freshly powder coated May 2024, in light grey metallic. Wheels balanced too. Here's a link to the pictures in a Flickr album > https://www.flickr.com/photos/24990899@N05/albums/72177720311551122 £1,600. 152,875 miles Sound about right? No swaps as I've got enough cars, ta! West Midlands just off the M5, Junction 3. (Above Latest pictures from June 2024) (Below, pictures from 2023)

But they can become very agreeable once pedestrianised, problem is with everything else that has built up around it over decades lots would need to be demolished to provide multi storey parking.

The tyres are completely the wrong size, change them first then worry about Speedo error.

Yes, as you can see the clips aren't installed in the photo. With great difficulty, I was lucky in that quite a lot of grease had escaped from the old boot, so there wasn't as much to contend with. The seam gets glued together in stages, after it is stretched over the driveshaft, so it's not as awkward as it would be if it had to be done all at once. But I could have cleaned the grease away first then re-packed the joint after the boots seam was stuck together. I couldn't believe the strength of the glue, there is a note in the instructions that I found comical, that said "do not wrap your hand around the boot/driveshaft, otherwise you may become permanently stuck to the vehicle" and it wasn't wrong at one point the glove that came with the kit became stuck to the boot. Ye the reason for starting this thread was because after searching around I couldn't find any reviews of the long term abilities of one of these boots. So far it's holding up, but that's only 4 days. I keep updating this thread.

If you have or can borrow a Sat Nav, stand alone or phone based that would probably be a good starting point, or even possibly one of the speedometer phone apps if your phone has GPS facility as many show speed. Not sure how accurate a speedometer app would be if only relying on data generated location on a phone - GPS generally locks onto many satellites so SHOULD be generally accurate.

Even if they did it is a visual inspection that matters. There are a lot of people that post on here with tyres down to the core. The thing is the car is theirs to be checking that they are safe the 51 weeks of even 103 weeks it does not go to a garage.

Oops. Forgot to check back after I sorted it out. Given mine was the facelift version with LEDs and three halogen bulbs, it was around £220 for the OEM part from Citygate Slough.

Sensor sounds likely now following @J.R. post. Edit. If temp sensor is bottom of sump. Whole volume of oil would need to fluctuate and spike like that and it seems unlikely in a moment of time as per explanation @J.R. See for example.

Errr, using that site and inputting the two sizes I get 890 revs per mile versus 808, in anyone's money that's a 10% difference plus whatever error the Speedo already has of course...

The use of the word "spikes" indicates that the oil temperature suddenly shoots up to 150°c which is implausible, my money is on the temperature/level sensor being faulty, I believe that they are quite exposed and prone to failure.

Not really but its true that a compressor that does not turn can have the seals harden and leak when re-used but all modern compressors turn all the time even when the AC is switched off, they do not have an electro-magnetic clutch like the earlier generation but instead a modulating valve to regulate the flow, when it is not pumping refrigerant it is stirring it around in the pump so the seals are always lubricated. Also the modulating valve is never turned off 100% so a small amount of refrigerant is circulated all the time the engine is running.

8Q5 is fine for HBA - my car has the same PR code and I was able to add HBA easily. The problem is that the dealer is either an idiot or more likely doesn't care about retrofitting items. Skoda may even block them from doing so given it's a paid for option. The OP just needs a someone with VCDS...

Earlier i was charging my car on Edinburgh City Chargers and BP Pulse @ 55 pence a kWh. Now i am 130 miles west and charhing for free. I took pictures of the VW Buzz Van blocking a bay and not charging and was away to put on ZapMap & PlugShare but before i did i spotted a guy in the control unit shed from BP Pulse and they were at a faulty charger. Nice guys, one with the van and one with a EV6. Anyway up pops a email while i was sitting and Eon Next made me an offer i could have refused but would have been stupid too. I had to agree to a Smart Meter so i did, but then it was them that said previously the installer could not install it a couple of years back. A special Tariff for special people, well ones that get the Warm Home Discount or have qualified in the past. I might even charge the car at home occasionally this winter at this price, maybe even put heating on in the house. Half the price of Angus Council chargers @ 42 pence a kWh be that 7 or 43 / 50 kW, & even less than half with Tesco 7 kW @ 44 pence. (But i am still using them for free since getting the MINI.)

I'm note sure from where you might have got the idea that any 'wisdom' exists in the Skoda management model. I'm still struggling (after 12 months) to work out how to operate (or not as the case may be) certain of the car's features/functions as the manual supplied is ominously silent on several points. The online manual is not downloadable in .pdf form and we are presumably therefore expected to refer to it on a smartphone while sitting in the car. While I do have a fairly modern mobile I can't use it for internet purposes due to physical constraints. So I keep plodding away trying to find answers but have already decided to disregard certain of the car's modern 'wondertoys'. As I and several others have commented on other threads, Fb groups and forums the car is a beaut to drive & travel in, but the electronics?........ No - I can't say what I was thinking of - I'd be banned. By the way - I have the electric tailgate & haven't had any problems so it is with some trepidation that I read various other members' posts on that particular topic.

IsoPropyl Alcohol (IPA) can also be useful, and doesn't really damage paintwork unless left on for a long time - it's also a very useful general purpose solvent for many household cleaning tasks and so I always keep a can or two in the house.

Its not just down to user mentality, a lot has to be borne by the authorities, starting with some locally available charge points, either fast or slow, in local areas where users, unable to home charge can go to and leave their car charging (if slow destination types) in a secure facility with 24/7 security on site. This change is being forced through by them, and so they cannot just stand by and watch people struggle.

I've had one for a while as it costs me nothing and allows access to supercharging sites open to all should I need them. I took out the subscription for my recent French trip and found the chargers to be fast and numerous, both in locations and number of stalls. Tesla in the UK is lagging behind Europe opening sites up, but if it becomes as ubiquitous as it is in France, the other players will need to really compete on price. Already Gridserve has direct price competition at Reading services, can only be good for us.

UK Prices now and specs revealed Orders open 3rd October Kamiq SE 1.0 TSI 95PS £24,030.00 1.0 TSI 116PS £24,960.00 1.0 TSI 116PS DSG £26,405.00 1.5 TSI 150PS £26,350.00 1.5 TSI 150PS DSG £27,750.00 Kamiq SE L 1.0 TSI 116PS £27,175.00 1.0 TSI 116PS DSG £28,620.00 1.5 TSI 150PS £28,565.00 1.5 TSI 150PS DSG £29,965.00 Kamiq Monte Carlo 1.0 TSI 116PS £29,275.00 1.0 TSI 116PS DSG £30,720.00 1.5 TSI 150PS £30,665.00 1.5 TSI 150PS DSG £32,065.00 Kamiq SE – from £24,030* All models in the new Kamiq range come with generous specification levels with even the entry-level SE featuring a comprehensive equipment list. SE models include 17-inch Stratos alloy wheels, new Loft interior design selection, 8.25-inch infotainment display, 8.0-inch digital instrument display and wireless Smartlink as standard. SE models also feature full LED headlights with LED daytime running lights, rear parking sensors, dual-zone climate control, four USB-C fast charging ports and keyless start/stop as standard. The Kamiq’s Simply Clever features include a boot net package, 12 volt socket in the boot and phone pockets on the front seat backs. Kamiq SE L – from £27,175* SE L models build on the generous spec of the SE and add 18-inch Fornax alloy wheels, new Lodge interior, larger 9.2-inch Škoda navigation display and 10.25-inch Virtual Cockpit. In terms of design, the SE L comes with chrome window surrounds, privacy glass for the rear side windows and ambient lighting in red & white. Kamiq Monte Carlo – £29,275* The sporty Monte Carlo delivers an even more dynamic look thanks to 18-inch Ursa black brushed alloy wheels, black door mirrors, radiator grille and badging and panoramic sunroof. Monte Carlo models also feature a bespoke Monte Carlo interior design selection, full LED Matrix headlights with AFS (adaptive front light system) with cornering function and dynamic indicators and full rear LED lights with dynamic indicators. Monte Carlo buyers also benefit from Drive mode select with Sport Chassis Control, a rear-view camera and keyless entry with start/stop as standard. https://skodamedia.com/en-gb/releases/1443

Car sorted. no more vibrations. Nothing obvious to me when doing visual check of car but apparently the rear tyres were down to the core and dangerous. Will be looking more carefully now and getting under/removing wheel to check in future. I could question how they let me take the car back after they had it for 2 months if the tyres had been so bad without raising it with me as they did not suddenly get worse the day after I picked it up. Do they not test drive cars anymore??

For anyone else needing to do this sort of thing, maybe get hold of a pair of hooked tools and insert them through to the back of the vent assembly, and pull both at the same time. Some VW Group marques/models, have holes in the body of these vents there specifically to help with removing these vents, and so you just use a suitable L shaped or hooked tool to pull the vents out, I did that on my old 2011 Audi S4, initially using an suitably sized allen key gripped with pliers or visegrips, once I found examined the first one I removed, I used something more suitable to remove the next vent.

Could it be your aircon? Might be worthwhile using an aircon cleaner.

Morning mate,, I'm having a similar issue with my 20tdi vrs CEGA engine 2010,, 1st is mine doesn’t over heat stay around 90 degrees and never really moves up or down but my live data reading says whilst driving 90deg but will read drops and rises in temp,, I seem to have a lot of pressure and when cold if I remove the cap the coolant spits out the bottle,, I’m taking to a garage to do a sniff test to see if it is head gasket (if it’s possible on a diesel) I did a Google search as you do haha and whilst looking I came across a YouTube video showing that in a little thin hose that comes off the top radiator hose on radiator and kinda goes back to the expansion tank has some kinda plastic thing inside and gets bunged up,, I took the pipe off and could not blow down or suck air through this pipe, so I tied flexing it where the plastic is and whacked it on the ground and some gunk came out allowing me to blow down it to make it clear,, flushed out the pipe re fitted and proceeded to run the car upto temp,, apparently the pipe allows any trapped air to then be forced into the expansion tank and not into the radiator (not sure if true but I have nothing to lose hahaha) anyway car got upto temp and I noticed a lot of bubbles now coming back into the tank,, got to 90deg coolant raised in the tank and spat some out then settled down, left it running until fans kicked in (98 degrees roughly) coolant again raised up and leaked out slightly so left running until fans kicked in again and that seemed to help as it didn’t spit out this time, (kept topping up coolant after spitting it out) so I put cap back on went for a quick 4 mile spin, parked up popped bonnet and checked pipes for pressure, they was pretty had to press in,, just been and took dog for walk this morning and then proceeded to pop bonnet to check on pressure in system (do this ever morning to release pressure),,, I could normally not push the pipes in as it still had a lot of pressure and if I took the cap off coolant spat everywhere even though it was cold,, but this morning I could squeeze the pipes (top and bottom radiator hoses) together and when I released the cap next to no pressure and no coolant spat out,, still need to drive to work on Monday as it’s a 37 mile journey there and back to see if it still has high pressure or next to nothing (pinkie crossed this has helped) This is the pipe hopefully you can just see where it bulbs out just above the shadow of me phone hahaha,, like I said I could not blow through this pipe until I whacked it on the floor hahaha It goes from top radiator hose and goes behind the air intake on front and the air box not saying this is your issue but could be worth checking this pipe, I’m hoping it has seriously cured my issue of over pressurising due to not being able to release trapped air,,,

WD-40 is a water displacement product made of various chemicals including light oils and paraffin. As we all know, oils and fats congeal over time. More so in colder climes. That's why it's far better to use the other products mentioned above when dealing with a frozen door lock. That said, we had -18°C here a couple of years ago and my Rapid opened first push of the remote fob. No products necessary. With all that said, what can you even do with WD-40 other than squirt a bit in the keyhole which isn't even where the actual locking mechanism is? Even using the straw through the gap in the door would be almost pointless IMO.

So you have build code L16 which means the front springs have OEM part number 5Q0411105HC, and build codes 1JE+0YC which means you have rear springs with OEM part number 5Q0511115P. I've listed 5Q0511115Q below as well as 5Q0511115P, because this could be a cheaper alternative to 5Q0511115P as it appears to be only about 6mm longer with about the same stiffness. Being 6mm longer could be an advantage, because sometimes when owners fit 4 new springs the front end can end up looking slightly higher than the rear end. This for many is not a good look. So a 6mm longer rear spring might help, but I've no idea whether fitting the below 5Q0411105HC front springs and 5Q0511115P rear springs would make the front end look slightly high compared to the rear end. However, I would probably go for the below Japko springs as I believe they are rebranded KYB springs (ie. identical...notice how the 1107 and 7156 part numbers are repeated in both the KYB springs and the Japko springs)...so you get KYB quality at a much better price. I believe Ashika and Japanparts are also rebranded KYB springs as again they use very similar part numbers and where quoted the specifications such as length, wire diameter, and outside diameter, are always identical. The photos always seem to be identical on Japko, Ashika, and Japanparts...which is another give away to the fact or strong suspicion that they are identical springs. 5Q0411105HC front springs KYB RA1107 Japko ZCJ1107A (same as KYB RA1107, but can be much cheaper) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/5q0411105hc?search=OEN 5Q0411105HC&supplier[0]=85&supplier[1]=10914 5Q0511115P rear springs Sachs 994 924 https://www.autodoc.co.uk/sachs/13786055 5Q0511115Q rear springs KYB RA7156 Japko ZCJ7156A (same as KYB RA7156, but can be much cheaper) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/5q0511115q?search=OEN 5Q0511115Q&supplier[0]=85&supplier[1]=10914

Can't advise on the rough running, but as far as I am aware the temp gauge will pretty much always read 90 unless the engine is far out of range. My Mk3 vRS reads 90 from around 70ish degrees. My engine typically runs slightly over 100, but the guage always says 90. I have read it is a 'feature' to stop people fussing over the fact that an engines temperature is never constant and will vary depending on conditions.

Is it bad that I want the camo livery? 😀

@toot What made me check the tread depth was that I have began to feel that the tyres were transmitting more road vibrations and rumblings into the cars' interior, which is something I have long noticed was something that occurs around the 2mm mark, so I suspect that is down to the lack of flex in the remaining tread to absorb the road imperfections. While I can accept that tyres have come a long way in their grip levels on dry roads, there is no substitute for tread depth to enable water to be channelled quickly and safely away to reduce chances of aquaplaning especially where surface water forms into puddles or as we often get storms that see the road become like a river.

Same should be done for any car (EV or ICE) parked at rapid chargers. But what you speak of is only applied when stall utilisation is near 100%, and ICE cars don't get fined because it's not connected. The cost per mile when public charging has been worked out, time and time again, is marginally cheaper than driving ICE car if not charged using most expensive charge points, "competitive to run" in your words. Do I need to quote relevant posts you've already replied to? The only stumbling block is your reaction to every time home charging is mentioned. You wish this topic never to be mentioned because it doesn't fit with your views. I can give you a referral code to Octopus, They allow easily adjust monthly payment online and never get into too much extremes. But remember, it's always better to build up a bit more credit during summer for winter months to use up. I usually aim for 0 balance in April/May.

Another, no doubt not cheap, alternative: https://insideevs.com/news/680018/pender-ebike-rack-easy-lift/ Many years ago VW did something similar. tom

I've been doing a little studying and I thought I'd give some additional information. The EA888 Gen3B is quite an interesting engine in that it has some very different fuelling characteristics, depending on what driving mode you're in. My headline finding is: ECO mode caps engine torque to 250Nm up to 5300rpm. (I think you can push past this if you absolutely floor the throttle.) Roughly speaking, that looks like this. That's a big old difference! Even in standard drive mode, you use the efficient B-cycle until you get to 3500rpm. So that's worth considering if you feel your 2.0TSI Gen3B isn't a sprightly as you would like: Are you actually inhibiting full power yourself? (I've used red text to more easily differentiate the VAG stuff and my text in this post.)

@ritthere you go

I cam make it definitely under £750 :). Let me know your VIN.

You should go through @pab567 He will Taylor the unit perfectly for your car. He made the same setup for me

The Yeti uses 7Jx16 ET45 rims for its 215/60R16 tyre size. The Karoq front wheel drive uses 6Jx16 ET43 rims for its 215/60R16 tyre size. The Karoq 4x4 uses 6Jx16 ET43 rims for its 225/60R16 tyre size. As you can see in the chart below, 6J is the minimum rim width for both 215/60R16 and 225/60R16. It's surprising that the Yeti went for such wide rims, ie. 7J for its 215/60R16 tyre size. By comparison, the Superb MK3 uses a 6.5J rim for its 215/60R16 tyre size. ETRTO approved rim widths 215/60R16 6.0-6.5-7.5 225/60R16 6.0-6.5-8.0 235/60R16 6.5-7.0-8.5 All things being equal, a 215/60R16 fitted to a 6J rim will give a more comfortable ride than fitting this tyre size to a wider rim such as 6.5J or 7J. So although a 215/60R16 fitted to a 7J rim may give a Yeti an acceptable ride for many, it is not the ultimate combination when it comes to ride comfort. For example, fitting a 215/60R16 to a 6Jx16 ET43 rim from the Karoq, should provide a noticeable improvement in ride comfort compared to using the 7J Yeti rim with this tyre size...all other things being equal. Surprisingly, a 235/60R16 tends to be a cheaper tyre size than both 215/60R16 and 225/60R16...and could be a good option on the Karoq 4x4 with a 7Jx16 rim...or possibly an over-size Yeti tyre. As you can see in the chart below, 235/60R16 has an outside diameter 1.3% bigger than 225/55R17 (which is one of the standard Karoq 4x4 tyre sizes). Up to 1.5% difference from standard is normally considered insignificant. Outside diameter of tyres 225/55R17 679.3mm 235/60R16 688.4mm (+1.3%) 7Jx16 ET45 5/112 57.1 has been used on quite a few VAG cars over the years including (so there a plenty of secondhand rims available, and new steel rims are still available in this size): Audi A4 1995-2007 Audi A6 1997-2011 Seat Exeo 2009-2013 Skoda Superb MK2 2008-2015 Skoda Yeti 2009-2017 VW Eos 2006-2015 VW Passat 2005-2014 Here are three examples of the 235/60R16 tyre size. In these examples the tyres are not over-specified for the Karoq 4x4, ie. not XL (eXtra Load) and not V/W/Y speed rating. By not over-specifying a tyre the sidewalls remain as soft and flexible as possible which helps to provide the best ride comfort...all other things being equal. Uniroyal RainExpert 5 235/60R16 100H (summer tyre) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m62b0s425p212999/Uniroyal_Tyres_Car_Uniroyal_RainExpert_5_235_60_R16_100H_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_C_Wet_Grip%3A_A_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_71dB Vredestein Quatrac 6 235/60R16 100H (3PMSF) (all-season tyre) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m139b0s12008p201646/Vredestein_Tyres_All_Season_Car_Vredestein_Quatrac_6_235_60_R16_100H_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_C_Wet_Grip%3A_B_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_71dB Yokohama Geolandar AT G015 235/60R16 100H (3PMSF) (all-season tyre) (All-Terrain tyre) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m62b0s425p148190/Yokohama_Tyres_Car_Yokohama_Geolandar_AT_G015_235_60_R16_100H_RPB_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_E_Wet_Grip%3A_C_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_72dB As you can see in the below two photos, a 235/55R17 gives the Yeti a beefier look compared to the standard 225/50R17 tyre size. However, I would prefer the 235/60R16 option in preference to a 235/55R17. Not only would the resulting 16" wheel weigh a lot less than the 17" wheel, but unlike the 235/55R17, the 235/60R16 is not over-specified for the Yeti/Karoq. 235/55R17 is often XL (eXtra Load) and also tends to have a speed rating more than H (130mph). This all adds up to an unnecessarily heavy and stiff tyre. Yeti with 225/50R17 tyres (top photo) and 235/55R17 tyres (bottom photo) Compared to the below 7Jx17 alloy rim (10.1kg) from the Karoq (which is quite a light 17" rim), you can get 7Jx16 ET45 alloy rims that weigh a much lighter 7.3kg (from Audi A4/A6 1997-2004) saving 2.8kg each rim, ie. this 17" alloy rim is almost 40% heavier than some lightweight 16" alloy rims. There's some dispute over the weight of the 10.1kg alloy rim, because the black version is listed at 10.9kg. So the lightweight 7.3kg 16" alloy rim may provide a even bigger weight saving compared to these 17" alloy rims, ie. a 10.9kg rim is a whopping 50% heavier than 7.3kg. No wonder the above Yeti owner with 235/55R17 tyres found his 17" wheels to be on the heavy side. 7Jx17 ET45 alloy rim (10.1kg) (from Karoq) https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/alu-kolo-ratikon-17-karoq/p/57A071497C+8Z8 7Jx17 ET45 alloy rim (10.9kg) (from Karoq) https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/alu-kolo-ratikon-17-karoq/p/57A071497D+FL8

Time for some modifications, I wanted air ride, but that was more than I bought the car for, so went coilovers. The stance and ride is some much better now,

I have the ACC set to the second distance setting, when on sections of the M4 with the chevron"keep your distance" markers it follows at that distance, and when a passenger times the gap its following the "2 second rule". I think we've all become so used to following too close that when we use ACC we think it's leaving too big a gap.

I'm impressed with the engine mount swap. What sort of cost was it for the parts and how long did it take to do?