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Here she is after an 8 month wait. Just had her Ceramic coated. 1.5 DSG Sportline

The doors unlock if the airbags are activated

Technically not done anything to my car yet, but ordered some Osram Night Breakers Lasers NG, completely fed up with the **** poor standard xenons, hopefully get to fit them this sunday after doing open heart surgery just to get to the bulbs...

There is a case for the disbanding of Charge Place Scotland and the love in with Transport Scotland & the SNP and the Transport Ministers. They are incompetent, SWARCO have a monopoly with the CPS Contract, owning e-Volt and having Maintenance Contracts. @LuckypantsThere are plenty good chargers in many areas. Plenty roll up and use if not being abused by the greedy or ignorant because free or cheap. But in Dundee that is a SWARCO love in with the HQ there and hubs they are involved with. @ Stirling park and ride it is FES maintaining. Much better, just not enough Rapids. Edinburgh is ridiculous, as is Aberdeen & Aberdeenshire. Perth sat on millions of EU money for years but now Broxden EV Hub is near ready next to the Tesla Supercharger. Local Authority / Council employees, drivers of Local Authority EV,s are some of the worst offenders, even where that council have their chargers for their use there are employees taking out vehicles and a CPS card and have not a clue or care about others. NHS, Social Work as well, but locally plonkers with ROADS department vehicles hogging a Rapid for hours when the AC charger will do fine. (Because they are local to me i know how or what they are or do.) Signage to EV Public Hubs (Public funded) is pathetic, usually it is follow the Park & Ride signs, then guess where to go if you have the right ones. Non Park & Ride, maybe public car parks just crap, & the Apps accuracy as well even if you keep telling them & ask them to update. .................. The Scottish Greens are useless but form part of the Scottish Government. (Latest story on Lorna Slater MSP / Co Leader S.Greens and trees and the investors is a beaut. Oil & Gas money, banking and funding) http://theferret.scot/partner-government-climate-scheme-shares-big-oil They help nothing with EV,s and charging, and at least could do something about Transport Scotland and those running that. Not fit for purpose as are those they oversee.

I was pointing out for these Trades People & Couriers / Delivery drivers that have to drive EV,s because that is what they get / Rent from their employers and do not have HOME CHARGERS, or take a Van home. Gig economy. What makes it viable is Grants & Loans & Tax Breaks for those running / leasing / buying fleets, and it is great for the Manufacturers who really do need to be building Hubs for the Commercials that their Franchises / Dealerships sell / lease. They have the Dealerships / Land in the areas where people actually go for deliveries, depots etc. Commercial / Industrial Land, not for Residential Development in many instances. Not all obviously. Dealerships and their local are not using Electricity much when closed, or Off Peak and can easily have Solar or a Turbine and Battery Storage and a number of Places set aside for Public or their Leased vehicles with customers. Many do have 7 / 11 kW chargers, but locked up out of hours or behind barriers for the businesses security obviously. Now more have RAPID chargers for their own use. Unused much of the time.

After some maintenance on the electronics on my old Fabia, I forgot to place back the connector of the blue clutch pedal switch (see image below which is borrowed from this forum). The function of this switch is for the car to notice when the clutch pedal is pressed in, and then the engine quickly reduces it's RPM to be more in line with the RPM of the gearbox. When the switch is faulty, the car thinks you are using your clutch every time you release the gas, which causes a shocking / shaking experience while driving. The car doesn't produce any warnings or fault codes, so those who have a similar problem could check this switch and its wiring.

Its easy to change should you know how to not make an airbag explode. I did this myself when I retrofit cruise control myself. I still have my old indicator stalk should you need one - Its a non-cruise control stalk though so if your vehicle has that mine wouldnt do. To replace, remove airbag, take wheel off, remove clockspring, unscrew the stalk and pull it off. There are two tiny screws holding the stalk itself together. I made the error of thinking these held it in place, unscrewed them and almost made my stalk 100 different pieces.

No problem with lane assist. It doesn't exactly wrench the wheel out of your hands, in fact I'd describe it as more of a gentle 'reminder nudge'. Nearly all current gen cars are full of these tech features, it would surely drive me crazy to sit there disabling everything from lane assist to auto door locking every time I get in the car! If you've paid out the money for a hi-tech 'simply clever' car, why sit there disabling everything every time you get in it? Personally I'm happy to embrace the technology. If you can't, then maybe swap for it a more basic model of something, or get an older car...

I thought same!

@Graham Butcher I was talking Vans / commercials, EV vs Diesel and fuelling cost if the driver needs to get rapid charged at 100 kW chargers and on the go. There are vans that better 30 mpg, but not really if sitting engine running and short drop deliveries.

Correction, the indirect TPMS works off data from the ABS system - it flags when there is a certain measured difference between rotational speeds of the wheels, not from rolling resistance.

Yes. There is a voltage range on the electric wastegate actuators that you need to set to first, before the adaption will be allowed to complete allowing upper and lower ranges to be learnt. The voltage is a representation of the position of extension the actuator rod.

That is just the anti squeal shim that has lifted a bit. I'd be binning brake stuff a bit earlier than 21 years - I think, everything will have a finite service life.

Should they? Thats a new one on me, sounds like they need therapy!

Standard routine when I get in car ...... Press the start button and immediately turn off stop start and lane assist 🙂

Thanks for the info! all interesting stuff to look out for! Gaz, thanks for the links, glad you got it sorted but I was sorry to read about the other stresses you were having at the same time, must have been difficult for you. Rooted, just the sales guy atm, but I'll be drilling down through all the p/work and finding the master tech if I go and view the car, advert and sales guy have confirmed a full dealer service history. Regarding the aftermarket mods, the car appears to be 100% standard currently, all I'm considering is upgrading the stereo to something android compatible at some point, but I also have a 2015 (non VRS) Octavia so I'm aware of the standard systems capabilities, but we all want to have something better!

I think this shows how the Chargeplace Scotland scheme has backfired a bit. Any CPO's map of chargers generally stops at Gretna, as there was no point trying to compete with free chargers in Scotland. Since most of these now charge, there is a business case to be made (see MFG's expansion) for privately provided charging in Scotland - but this has effectively put the commercial roll-out in Scotland a couple of years behind. Add in that many chargers Rooted uses are unreliable* and it makes an electric car less attractive in Scotland. * I have to say my experience of CPS chargers has always been good, but I use them quite rarely and in different areas to @Rooted

I have just seen how many MFG Charge Hubs there are at filling stations or are under construction, waiting to go online or planned around Edinburgh. @ £0.79/kWh though. 50 kWh = £39.50, 50 x 3.5 miles 175 miles. A diesel getting 30 mpg, 5.2 Gallons / 24 litres, @ 160 pence a litre = £38.40

The Transit electric van is said to have dependable range of 100 miles, rated range of 150+ miles. https://www.parkers.co.uk/vans-pickups/ford/transit/2022-e-transit-review/ Might not be enough in rural area, but the range is more than enough in the city. All supermarket delivery, and most parcel delivery around here are now via electric vans. Chargemaster HQ was in the same business park as my workplace, before being acquired by BP. Their 2 on-site rapid charger just cannot be relied upon, most of the time when I do lunchtime walk I see screen dead or EVs fully charged and hogging. They are more focused on getting grant money to expand than providing a reliable service. Perhaps it worked according to plan as it has been acquired by BP. So might be worth striking BP off your list of chargers if you are in a hurry. I know you get free charging through them, but they just cannot be relied upon. Worth having a nearby Plan B, when BP are your plan A. Speaking of my workplace, there is a 16 stall Tesla supercharger v4, open to all, recently completed construction up the road. Reliable chargers everywhere down south

Check the wattage of the bulb you replaced is exactly the same as old one. I put a normal 21/5 stop tail bulb in my Octavia and warning light stayed on. I then found out that they use 21/4 watt bulbs and that one watt makes a difference.

Give CJ Mechanical in Notts a look up, he's down by Lady Bay Bridge. Great specialist indy, very knowledgeable and trustworthy, he's sorted some difficult issues for me that puzzled many dealers and "specialists".

The aim from factory is rubbish as well, if the throw doesn’t improve after new bulbs i’ll manually adjust them in small amounts to bring the aim up higher. There is some maths involve but don’t believe it’s beeb explained in really really simple turns, so i’ll wing it My car is 2016 and still on original so I suspect yours will be too

The reason for the auto lock is its a anti hijack facility, so if you were to pull up at a junction or lights then no one can steal out of the boot or even get into the car and nick it . and as far as getting in in the case of a accident then you can still open from inside or if the services need to get in they would get in very easy. And if you had not noticed when you unlock the car it only unlocks the drivers door (although I think you can change that)

You mean as every brake in existence has done since it was installed? Maybe you do need new brakes but is it any wonder the term "stealers" is in the common parlance?

it's because the glowplug light was flashing.

Apologies, thought it would go un noticed in this thread since it is unrelated and not really replying to anyone.

The Haldex is still @ 3 years / 30,000 miles. Many know to do sooner than that as preventative maintenance and to have it done properly. Not to be skimped on if you have a car you are keeping. PS You want to check if the Pads are down by 10 or 15% and not down to. Ask them the actual measurements they did. As it is maybe if you need brakes done then not by the Up-sellers you are putting your car into.

Try it again when the system is loaded enough that the voltage measured across the battery terminals is well under 14.2V, then repeat the voltage drop measurements. It will be interesting to see if the total of the voltage drops on each connection plus battery voltage add up to 14.2V or not. One of the small wires (the blue one) is the alternator excitation, only used for monitoring the output voltage after its initial function of booting up the alternator. It is self generated after this, once alt is spinning enough. The other is DFM, which is just information to the engine ECU about how much the alternator is 'trying' (the duty cycle of the regulator). Output voltage is fixed at the alternator +ve output terminal by the regulator, as long as the current demand is less than it is capable of supplying at that engine speed and full duty cycle.

Assuming you want the backlights to be white, it's easy to do the steering wheel buttons and climate panel - they just need swapping for versions with white backlights. If you want to do the buttons near the gearstick and the window up/down buttons, I think the only option is to remove the old LED's and fit white LED's in their place I've not seen anyone fit RGB LED's to match the ambient lighting colour I'm afraid.

First I've heard of them mate, I'll have a look at them. I currently have Android Auto on my stereo unit, but it's a wired one. I wanted a wireless one where you don't have to use a USB dongle to connect it to your phone for the wireless function. I might just keep this, as the ones with the built-in wireless function are hard to find.

Not fused, powered and circuit protected by the BCM.

Check this thread out Some recommendations in it.

You'll see my very recent experiences of the very same problem elsewhere - the difference being my car only covered 13k miles. If you don't want to pay main dealer prices for the same crappy replacements and find fast-fit centres equally as expensive or in my case local brake dealers even more expensive than Skoda! I can recommend using EuroCarParts. You won't find the brakes and pads much cheaper but it also has the benefit of being able to select a local'sih garage who can fit them in a matter of days. I bought Bosch discs and pads and had them fitted for approx £180. in plenty of time b4 the MOT restest. 🤪 Ayrshiredude - I requested my car be given a pre-MOT check a the week b4 the MOT was due ( at the same garage). The car was serviced 48hr b4 the MOT was due. Nobody suggested it'd fail, quite the opposite. I was told the car may need new discs/pads b4 the MOT the following year. It was only when the car was put on a rolling road during the MOT test itself they discovered the point of failure on the discs. When I posted my findings elsewhere, once all the conspiracy theorists arguments were put to bed, one person then questioned why I bothered having a car with such low mileage !!! FFS

@Ian1975 What kind of aftermarket mods? 'Approved Used from a Dealers', so are the mods no issue with the Approved Used Warranty, 'Factory approved hardware or software'? Is it Serviced to Manufacturers Guidelines, Recommendation or Schedule so Spark Plugs on record as changed, brake fluid etc etc.? PS Is it the Master Technician you have spoken with or just the Workshop / Service Manager or a Salesperson. Get the Full Service / maintenance & Warranty history in writing since a Skoda Approved Used Car. & there is a nice check list now for the 'Rigorous Checks' that they carry out. (Lost my Pig Flying picture.) EDIT. Found it. Now where is the Pinch of Salt one?

Make sure your heater works and you get hot air from all the vents. You do need to know what was the cause, and fix, of the coolant leak. My 2015 vRS TSI blew it's turbo, the first sign of the problem was a delay in heat getting into the cabin: Gaz

There was maybe a better road or haulage with Horse & Carts or whatever when that house / estate was built and renovated and maintained over the years and what a pity the access is so poor a Recovery Truck can not access the place now in 2023. But then there was a weather warning and do not travel. PS Lets hope the Fire & Emergency services like a Fire Engine or ambulance never need to get to where the Tesla gets to! There is when you follow his channel how the lay of the land is, the road and other properties out of his gate.

There's no way of knowing what the new ECU has been coded with without the info from the seller, and without plugging it in and checking via ODIS unfortunately. I had my car taken a VAG specialist who got a new ECU from Germany via TPS and freshly coded it scratch to my car, no problems since... I shorted mine by fumbling the rachet when changing the battery and arcing it of the ECU case, ended up with a fully dead car! Dealers and other specialists said I was stuck as changing an ECU couldn't be done... BS!

To make it really a viable option at those kind of prices you do need to be able to do most charging at home.

That looks more or less what it should be in stock, especially with a full tank. So your car is perfectly capable. 😊

Just turn off the radio before you disconnect the old battery and the radio will start once you turn it on again with the new battery in place.

Just let the radio do its thing even if it asks you for a code, be patient and it will spring back into life after a while. I wasn't patient even though I knew better and tried all the numbers I could find handwritten on the handbook, eventually it locked out after too many incorrect code attempts, I kicked myself and sulked but it came back to life the next day. You might get fault code city on the dashboard, again dont panic, drive for about 25 yards and they will all go out. The one touch window operation will likely need resetting, I can never recall precisely how but I hold the button down for a while and it works afterwards.

I see you have an estate, check the rear high level brake light, it may have some failed LED's in the cluster throwing the dash light, mine did this, I just lived with it as it was a ball ache to change.

Most of the newer TSI engines are the same will only rev to around 3000 rpm out of gear, it's linked with the ecu to stop engine damage, the engine will rev quite high when in gear and travelling on the road this is normal on these engines no problem

Use who can do the job, all the gear and more than ideas, doing Servicing & Maintenance correctly. & knows of Recall, Recall Actions, Service Campaigns etc, and only does them if you agree after they show what they are and why required, or not required. @ a Main Dealer. Be sure the Haldex is being correctly serviced by them, not just oil change. Screen cleaned or replaced if your Haldex has a Screen / Filter, which it will. DSG, if there is a filter and there are with a DQ250 or a DQ381. You want that replaced.

I don't know where you got the idea that I was trying to sell the car just off the brief description I have given. I was just checking to see if it generated any interest on here before advertising it fully. At that moment I didn't have the time to put together a complete advert. Anyhow, I don't know why I'm explaining myself to you.....

I removed the Skoda lettering from my Superb and just had Superb and 4x4 there so it’s more symmetrical

OE 5Q0 601 011 B 6.5J 16" ET46 Copy-Paste from another tread -> Pros and Cons have been described already: a) same size as all other wheels -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/493502-full-sized-tyre-as-spare/ + can be installed on any axle + can be used for unlimited distances + no size diff = no speed limits + Cruise control will be available - boot floor will be pushed few cm up - most expensive b) custom 205/65r16, full diameter (my choice for 220ps) -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/442912-full-size-spare-wheel/page/2/?tab=comments#comment-5040470 + minor width diff will provide safe driving on + 30% of speed printed on spare disc. Important note, when installed on rear axle. + can be used for longer distances + minor circumference diff will provide ability of Cruise control usage. In theory, i haven't had to test it after OEM 205/55r16 were replaced. + fits in it's place, doesn't change size of boot. - !!! doesn't fit on 272/280ps even on rear axle !!! c) custom 205/60r17, full diameter (my choice for 280ps) -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/520234-superb-mk3-spare-wheel/?do=findComment&comment=5818139 Pros are equal to b and fits on 272/280ps, which has bigger brake discs, 340/310, while all rest have 310/298 (front/rear) d) OEM 205/55r16 + lot wider than 'd' = safer than 'd', but don't think printed speed limit can be exceed more than + 10%, even when installed on rear axle. + fits in it's place, doesn't change size of boot - huge circumference difference disables usage of Cruise Control - huge circumference difference isn't healthy for 4x4 e) OEM 125/70r18 + fits in it's place, doesn't change size of boot - huge width difference = absolutely unsafe, even when installed or rear axle. - huge circumference difference disables usage of Cruise Control - huge circumference difference isn't healthy for 4x4 -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/494383-can-anyone-with-a-20-tsi-220-factory-spare-wheel-tell-me-the-size/?do=findComment&comment=5550057 -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/493502-full-sized-tyre-as-spare/?do=findComment&comment=5556680

Here are a few of the available numbers from those websites. Not all companies quote a power increase, preferring to tailor a map to a specific vehicle. However some companies seem to have very similar improvement claims, which indicates to me (rightly or wrongly), an off-the-shelf map. (I've quoted a variety of units as there's inconsistency between units quoted by sites, so I used a conversion tool so the numbers could be compared on a like-for-like basis. I've rounded up/down to limit to one decimal point. https://www.unitsconverters.com/en/Power-Conversions/Measurement-18?MeasurementId=18 ) Power Power Torque Torque Nm Stock 190ps 187.4bhp 236lbft 320nm Revo from 242ps to 266ps from 238.6bhp to 262.4bhp from 291lbft to 321lbft from 394.5nm to 435.2nm Racingline 240ps 236.7bhp 286.9lbft 389nm Quantum Tuning 261.6ps 258bhp 324.5lbft 440nm Top Tuning 261.6ps 258bhp 324.5lbft 440nm Superchips 261.6ps 258bhp 325.2lbft 441nm Turners 248.4ps 245bhp 317.2lbft 430nm Chip Tuners 248.4ps 245bhp 317.2lbft 430nm

Wow that's awesome. I bet its rapid now.

Hello Hugh, I think your best bet is either going to an actual Skoda dealership which will be pricey or speaking to a local mechanic. As there are plenty of videos online I would show them to a mechanic because it is an easy job and requires only a handful of tools. Here are some videos: Good - Good - Great - The last one takes a bit more time, the first two are what I have done and still holding up. I recommend using Plumbers Gold as a sealant. "If you want something done, and you want it done well you do it yourself" - Napoleon Bonaparte Tui