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I would take a photo of the status page on the screen (the data in opening post), and print it, and when you go to collect the keys ask receptionist what has been changed, if he/she doesn't know, suggest you both go to the car and check what versions now appear. If nothing has been updated then say better both go back to desk, or service managers office for full explanation. Then see what happens, you want it done properly, not bit of update, and be fobbed off.

@ThudIIRC, the socket with the black cover is for trailer lights (tail, side, stop, reversing) The white cover one is for trailer ancillaries like auxiliary battery charging, interior lighting, etc.

TPI stands for Technical Product Information... Meahwhile I used the "Search" function on this topic and found the TPI posted on June 22nd, courtesy of @Jorgeminator - you can read the symptoms and solution there (update to 1941 - obviously!). I also found that your SW version can be directly updated to 1941, without the two-step update I mentioned before; that is also mentioned in the TPI.

I agree. In fact the best I have had in S-mode is a re-charge to 8 miles of electric, but usually it is 5-6 miles. You need a long-ish trip and a light touch on the accelerator to achieve this.

For sure there's a setting for that, the only problem is I can't guide you through the Octavia Menu. My Octavia had an ICE. However, on the Formentor which has the identical hybrid system from VAG, I can "reserve" a certain percentage of battery, or even more, if the battery is low or depleted, I can ask the system to charge the battery using the ICE. This is surely possible on Octavia too. L.E. check the posts on this other topic... (I see you already visited that topic): You'll find in my post of November 2nd a link to a video - I think at minute 19:05 in the video there's all the information you need.

Update: i un****ed it! Apparently vcds is kind enough to keep a debug log with all changes made, which let me get the initial coding everything came with. sooo.. yeah, good to know

The Fabia is a bit broken right now so I can't do any sort of photography like this with it at the moment, but I've got this.

I don't miss anything when I do a blind spot check. I certainly wouldn't rely on a driver aid, so if I can't rely on it there is little point of having it.

Ironic ?

Loving the looks of my car now

Anyone who may be interested the code is bf23. I have just ordered the led reversing bulbs and got a discount of £7.19p. The previously ordered rear indicator led bulbs are working fine, with no errors.

The factory 19s (19x8) on the Superb r equipped with 235/40/19 tyres. Mine came with Pirelli P7 Centuro tyres. They weren't bad. As already mentioned in the post earlier - they're not a cheap size, nor as readily available. A few of us have switched to 245/40/19 tyres. It's more comfortable, cheaper, and easier to source. I'm now running ContiMaxContact tyres.

Could also check on the app if you locked the car and if you didn't you can lock it.

My new 280tsi has been built a week early apparently. I'm trying not to get too excited...! Just the delivery wait now.

It took me ages to get Lookers and Skoda to activate the Lock/Unlock function and two forms of ID.

No, fitted one on mine and they just disconnected the old one and re-connected the new one....(the girl off reception did it while I watched)......I spoke to the Indy that did it, and apparently it's a bit of a myth that you need to do any "programming"....(2015 1.4 L&K)...

It sounds like all might not be lost for me yet. I'm now leaving the Android Auto issue until the dealer sorts out full access to Skoda Connect services for me. So annoying that a new car, so good in so many ways, is let down by flawed technology.

Lock/unlock has to be authorised by skoda. Think you have to show them your driving licence or something

@Rooted that's spam, Shirley!

Does look quite likely to be a dodgy wire. Will look at circuits after lunch. Full part numbers of original and current vac boxes may be useful info, as might VIN, which you could PM through. What you've called anti-shudder is the V157 with two reported issues, so check wiring/connections at and near that if you haven't already, but I expect you have. Never had any probs with supermarket fuel personally. Diesels with functioning EGR just make lots of particulates whatever fuel is used (but less NOx); that's why DPFs were introduced.

@sarahkhanWelcome. Good thread revival. Wind from the North in a weeks time. There is a difference from the North of the UK to the South.

Mine came with Bridgestones from new on 19" rims. Since then I have had PS4s which were also OK - but I don't drive like a madman so unlikely I have found the edge of their perfomance. Currently running Uniroyal Rainsports which I rather like, they seem quiet and grippy but as I said, I'm nowhere near the ragged edge of performance anyway. Another thing to consider is 235/40/19s are not a very common size and often limited in choice or need to be ordered in by fitters.

A blow out is either a catastrophic puncture or a tyre that has overheated and had a catastrophic structural failure through running at too low a pressure or in very rare cases like my tipping trailer through exceeding both the load and speed ratings for a sustained period. I doubt that a higher speed rated tyre would help you in any of the above except the last and there are very few of us that would willingly put themselves in that situation. Blow outs were a frequent occurrence before the introduction of tubeless tyres, I suffered a blow out on a tubed trailer tyre and don't wish to repeat the performance, I read a 60's Readers Digest article on the new invention of "puncture proof" tubeless tyres, they were not puncture proof in the way we think of a puncture now but back then a puncture when driving could be catastrophic, they described a test where the vehicle drove over a plank of wood with nails sticking up and the tubed tyre deflating immediately and the tubeless one "self sealing" in their words around the nails and deflating in a slow and controlled manner giving adequate warning to the driver to slow to a stop safely. Well that would have worked with 1960's drivers whose senses had a connection to their vehicles responses, that has by and large been lost on todays generation who have never known anything other than driver assistance systems.

Then an emoticon would have been appropriate, I too read it at face value.

I heard it's not good to fill it up to the brim and you should let the pump cut off itself.

That striker plate is usually held in by two bolts / screws - one at either side of the pin - that are covered by the trim around the tailgate - you'll need to remove the trim to loosen them re-align it.

Once the VW release is out in the next period worth trying with that in case there is something defective in that download. You would expect the download that worked with that menu option would still show the drive invitation which you saw when you checked it again after getting home from the dealer to write you piece up earlier. Like for like test.

@sussambNever rely or count on anything working, or take for granted, you just use your observations and skills. If ever you need the ABS it might not work or the tyres might still get no grip or traction so be ready to do your modulation braking. The Air bag might not deploy, especially those in VW Group vehicles but thats how things go. There were all those decades in the last century when there were no air bags.

I think the height adjustable passenger seat is on the options list these days for most models. I tried to get it on my SE Drive but it wasn't an option then reading deeper it appears to be standard on the SE Drive so fingers crossed.

Hello, Appologies for a late reply. Thank you gents for your feedback. Car did pass the mot after the long journey and making it really hot... I will keep this in mind for the next year.

You do not rely on it, but if you happen to not spot something / someone there might be an alert. Amazing those that think they see everything and are in full control. Because they miss things they do not know they missed seeing something. All these that are never in an accident but cause them.

We rerouted DV Lines to the opposite side to make place for new overboost pipe going over driver side to the Garrett FMIC and being single pass not dual like old Forge motorsport FMIC. Line still not finally shortened and fixed. Will be after finished installation of mentioned New FMIC

Well that is disappointing, to say the least, given Osram claims - 220% more of this, and 5,000 more metres of that! I’ll just hang on to the OE bulbs ‘til they’ve had it, as forking-out £150 for an early zero, to a potentially mediocre improvement, is a daft idea.

My 2019 Kamiq is my first car that has had blind spot detection and I don't think that I would have another car that did not have that safety feature. Whilst it is not a feature that I particularly like, I am amazed at the negative comments on Lane Assist. Both my wife and I feel that it is a useful safety function that we never turn off, when it does give a nudge that we have crossed a centre line or the system fails to recognise the lack of a centre line, the nudge that Line Assist gives is such that any sensible driver should expect and cope with, during normal driving. Whilst not a like, my biggest gripe is the fixed, very low passenger seat. I have raised this by 30mm but my wife still uses a 100mm seat cushion which she also uses when driving the car. My other like is the car's utter reliability, it has never had any fault over the 4 years of ownership.

Just fitted some Audi RSQ3 wheels (8,5x19 ET36).

Someone that knows will help with the best to suit your car. I would not have a AWD / Haldex car with a Space Saver or Steel Spare that saves space that does not have an identical Circumference / Total Diameter. Near is fair enough on a FWD, as Skoda spares are. You are driving a long way on this trip and maybe on other trips. Is a like for like Tyre / Wheel possible? You might have to slow because a bit narrower, different tread and put on the front or back, but you do not get the issues some have had with their Haldex Equipped cars while trying to continue a journey with the Official Size SPACE SAVER.

I think this denotes that towing may be ok but not sure:

The fact that battery type is shown as regular, with no mention of AGM makes me not trust that test set-up. I suspect it also isn't taking into account the variable output voltage nature of an alternator in a start-stop car. Makes it trickier to test than traditional fixed voltage alts.

Quick up-date on the clutch in my wifes low miles Citigo, 6 years old now. All working perfectly! Left the clutch alone and the glitch has stayed away. Can this be true, i always have car grief!

Tyres - Load index and speed rating (question and answer session) Question 1 My maximum axle load is 1,230kg. Can I use tyres with a 91 (615kg) load index? Answer 1 Yes Question 2 My car's top speed is 150mph (240km/h). Can I fit tyres with a speed rating of V (150mph) (240km/h)? Answer 2 Yes Question 3 My car's top speed is 150mph (240km/h). Can I fit winter rated tyres (tyres with the 3PMSF symbol are winter rated, so include all-season tyres) that have a speed rating of H (130mph) (210km/h)? Answer 3 Yes

It's not the automatic folding that's important, it's the motor that moves the mirror. The 'basic' version only has 3 wires to allow it to move in all directions. The 'memory' version has 7 wires, the extra 4 are connected to potentiometers so it can also report it's position. It needs the position so it can accurately drop to the position you've set and then return back to the original position. This means you may also need a new door controller that supports it too 😕 Example wiring diagram showing both the motors and potentiometers:

Got some new shoes (rims and tyres) for my pride and joy.

Test fitting is done. Discs are centered within 0,5mm as Brembo and AP racing reccommends. Dismantčed and packaged and ready for balancing by the www.elmet.hr separatelly discs and hats due to the fact it is floating setup (0,35mm floating), and than hard elpxing in nature alu. Ofcourse new MDX Blue stuff are comming to

If that person recommended it then are you doubting them? Who were they? Plenty here will recommend the same and not know that Quantum comes from Fuchs now and VW Group dealerships use that. If you buy even Own Brand Label Oil to VW504 00 / 507 00, so 5w 30 FS III from Asda, Tesco, B&M or anyplace that is good oil produced by good oil companies. Or go Quantum / Fuchs, Comma, Castrol, Mobile or what ever, all just oils. Some have more spent on advertising. Buy the correct Oil Filter from a trusted seller, Maybe with VW/Audi on it or Mahle or what ever.

Do you mean what sort of gains might you get from fitting a tuning box or from having a remap? The latter is more effective than the former. A good remap on a 150 TDI should give c. 180 - 185 bhp and c. 400 Nm of torque. I have this engine in my Yeti and a good remap has certainly improved the performance. You can, of course go quite a bit further than this by fitting a bigger hybrid turbo, bigger injectors, etc.

Sure, charging the battery via the ICE will clearly (and seriously) impact the mileage. On the Formentor I had the opportunity to play just a bit with the battery options: To keep the charge at a certain level - there's no problem, even if I decided to drive a bit sportier. It will give the electric boost anytime I need it and it will recharge quite fast via ICE. Once I tested the charge while driving option; I was down to about 15%, on the highway returning to the city and asked the system to charge to (maybe) 30% - it's hard to say, 'cause the CUPRA menu is different to the Skoda one, so all I can see are level bars instead of percentage. In about 20 km on the highway it got to about 25% - enough for me to cross the city in EV mode. But that was just to test the way it works, otherwise I'm able to charge daily, and for the really long trips I'm reserving some battery percentage from the start of the trip. Too bad you have to remember to set again the battery reserve if you have a stop along your trip... it would be nice if it would remember that setting for short stops. The same way a short stop will not reset your current trip mileage for example. I don't have a picture of that menu on Cupra, but I found something online; if you press the "=" symbol the system will preserve the current charge level...

I didn't know too much about the hybrid system on Octavia, but it's the same one that I now have on the Formentor - it's the one VAG uses across several brands and models. Long story-short, this PHEV IS ABLE to charge itself. I had to search the web for a while and find a video for Octavia (to make sure I'm not wrong correcting you guys), but there it is: Sorry for the French, it's the first I could find... At minute 19:05 you'll find the setting in the infotainment that allows the user to set the car to charge the battery to a certain percentage when needed. Assuming you're on a long highway trip and you depleted your battery on the first part of your journey, but there's a town ahead of you that you want to cross in EV mode, this setting will allow you to either preserve a certain battery level, or to charge it to the desired level using the ICE if the battery is too low.

All fixed now. I poked around in a compartment under the battery until I found the 2 wires to the reverse lights switch and the fused supply from the ignition. I dragged the wires one at a time up through the plastic tube into the compartment under the battery and soldered and shrink-wrapped the wires to my new connector which had had its wires extended with a 2-core cable. Few will be surprised to hear that the ignition-switched feed wire to the switch had broken next to the old connector. Again, I am indebted to @Breezy_Pete for this successful outcome.

See if this helps: ---