Leaderboard

Just search in settings for winter tyre warning option and turn it off.

You clearly did or you wouldn't have asked the question It isn't just a physical screen as if it was Autoglass rocking up at your house to replace one. It had to be supplied, fitted, wired (somebody else) and configured in the Infotainment screen (another somebody else). I also explained the bigger picture as to why in the grand (pun intended) scheme of things it could be argued relatively cheap. You clearly would have baulked at it but we all have different views and priorities.

And so it begins 😂 got started on some jobs today, mostly cleaning, all the mould that was inside is no longer there. Before And after For whatever reason I only took a photo of the wheel half way done 😂 Also found some automotive history, the first time I had to put fuel in the car 6/2/13! Also done a scan of the car for a laugh, had about 7 fault codes come up, I really don't think that's too bad! Managed to clear them all as the majority were issues caused by the flat battery, still left with these 2 though so I'll look into this another day. One of them could be the airbag switch which there was a recall for, other could be to do with the resistors for the seats, so should all be easily fixed 😅

Originally, diesel engines didn't have throttles. They ran at full throttle all the time and engine revs and output were determined by the amount of diesel injected. The ASV was introduced to stop the engine dead when you switched off the ignition. If you'd ever driven an old diesel truck and pulled the engine stop knob, you'd have understood about the shudder. However, more recently, the ASV has been used to provide some throttling of the intake air; notably during DPF regeneration. Hence it's become known as a 'throttle body'. HTH

Ok update time. It turns out that the belt fitted by my garage and the belt suggested by the motor factors are wrong. 1180 is what it is supposed to be but 1183 is what was fitted. 3mm too long. This doesn't sound much but it's a proper difference on the tensioner. With the 1183 it's much further around and noticeably lower tenson on the belt. This causes it to slip and polish and then slip more. Fitting the correct belt has solved the problem.

Actually, there is a solution. You can reset via vcds, which i did. In the ABS module, then Basic Settings and there is an option for reset (Group 42).

There is nothing in that package i would want either.

I'm on my third Kodiaq and never met any gearbox problems over 6.1/2 years. 30,000 miles on first Kodiaq. Fewer miles on No.2 and No.3 but no trouble.

That's £1,145 that can be saved and spent elsewhere 🙂

It was a very comfortable and easy drive; the 'box would change readily down if I needed the extra rpm for acceleration. I was surprised that the DSG 'box was as economical as my manual.

Quite a big pram, sort of the old style chunky ones. Did not realize LEAF boot was so compromised by the intrusions of wheel arches and suspension turrets. Car going to be a local run around but as one can get some ze40s for similar money to some 22 kws and 22s are so restricted by range then ze40 is stil! a possibility. Soul looks good, chunky and safe looking, not going to submarine in a crash. Did not realize they were also Chademo. Like the sound of a Merc B ev but they are like gold dust under 8.5k. Mentioned about some cracking deals on at the moment for new cars is out down 7k and pay almost nothing a month ie what one would pay for a mobile phone a month and give back in two years if one likes. Car market so bad that dealer might offer user a bit price less than balloon payment I expect.

I reckon Škoda have prioritised the gear ratios for low emissions and lower fuel consumption, hence lower revs when cruising. Is your a manual 'box or auto/DSG? From memory, at steady motorway speeds the revs in a loan DSG I had a while back were lower than my manual 'box.

Hmmm...seems it was deleted a while ago due to chip shortage. No mention of it on the configurator now. Odd that Kamiq still has it. I quizzed daughter about her saying it's a problem around town and turns out there's a particular intersection that has lines all over the place where it bothers her and she probably is doing 40ish through there. She's figured out how to turn it off and does that every journey now.

Bonus!

"skoda eshop cz" are listing four 16" winter wheels for the Scala. All are 89H or 91H depending on size. 195/60R16 is 89H and 205/55R16 is 91H. 16" winter wheels listed on "skoda eshop cz" for the Scala https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/zimni-kompletni-kola/c/winterSetOfWheels?q=%3ApriceAsc%3AcarType%3AScala%2B%282019%2B%29%3ArimDiameter%3A16%22&text=# Considering the 115HP Scala has a top speed less than 130mph, there's no need to over-specify the speed rating of the tyres by choosing V speed rated tyres. Over-specifying the speed and load rating of a tyre can increase its weight and stiffness. The benefit of having a lower powered car is that you can choose less compromised tyres, by choosing a lower speed rating. Take a look at the car's CoC (Certificate of Conformity), as that document will list all the Skoda approved tyre sizes along with their speed rating and load index. Continental AllSeasonContact 2 205/55R16 91H https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rshop/tyre/Continental/AllSeasonContact-2/205-55-R16-91H-EVc/D-127964 Vredestein Quatrac 6 205/55R16 91H https://www.camskill.co.uk/m139b0s8003p202103/Vredestein_Tyres_All_Season_Car_Vredestein_Quatrac_6_205_55_R16_91H_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_C_Wet_Grip%3A_B_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_70dB wheel-size.com lists 195/60R16 89H and 205/55R16 91H for the Scala 1.0TSI 115HP https://www.wheel-size.com/size/skoda/scala/2023/

My deepest condolences.

Hi all. My car's a Toledo but I thought I'd post this here as well as in the Seatcupra forum, as our cars are the same. I've suffered for the last 4 years on and off with this wretched creaking noise from the front of my Toledo. It's done it since it had 16k miles on it. It's really bad on speed bumps, but crops up on most bumps - pot holes, etc. It's weather / temperature dependent - I can go through the whole summer with no noise at all, but as soon as the temperature drops below 15°, the creaking starts. Weirdly, if the temperature gets close to zero, the creaking stops again. It also stops in rain. There are several posts in various forums about this issue, and it seems to affect various VAG cars. Lots of suggestions as to the fix - ARB bushes, engine mounts, drop links etc. but nothing concrete. I replaced the drop links as it was a cheap fix, but this made no difference. I replaced the ARB bushes with genuine ones; no change. I took the ARB bushes out and coated them liberally in red rubber grease - again no joy. Still convinced it had to be arb-related, last week I disconnected the drop links and drove the car over my local speed bump and the noise was gone. I've bought some Powerflex bushes and I've just fitted them. Deep joy - the noise is no more! Hopefully this will be of use to anyone else with the same problem. Cheers, Martyn

Hi.... I'm getting “I can only describe it as” a humming/yowl sound when I'm driving in both normal drive and sports mode,...the sound gets louder the faster I go,...it's even there when I let the car coast along in neutral, but isn't there when I stop and idle the engine.. There is no other “peculiar” noises or warning lights appearing on the dash The car is a 2010 Octavia, 115000 miles, Serviced every year or 10000 miles by my local "non-Skoda" garage.... mick

It is similar in appearance and function to the throttle body on a petrol engine, but as above it's not for rev control. It has two main uses as I understand it, anti-shudder at shutdown, and to create variable pressure levels in the intake manifold in order to allow more control over flow rates of the exhaust gas recirculation system.

I'll leave this here for your pleasure, I'm certain @wyx087will love this for sure. The scale is just mind-boggling. Happy Christmas everyone.🥂

Agreed, wouldn't want ACC. My eyes can look way further ahead than ACC which is simply looking at the vehicle ahead. By the time it's reacted I'm about 5 minutes ahead of it 😁

I so wanted an Aero. A few posts up you'll see my Audi S8. It was that or a 9000 or 9-5 Aero. Still find myself looking. Just can't run 3 cars. We'll see...

Hi from Scottish Borders! Give us a ping if you are in Berwickshire.

Noted, thanks. That should help me figure out which end is which 🙂 I'll take a look at this in a couple of days when I've got the time...

Quite likely that's it, yes, but don't know from personal experience on a mk2 Fabia. Connectors do tend to have pins numbered, but there's a decent chance it's the only black wire. As long as the connector has a black wire, it's probably an ignition switched feed.* Edit * No, actually there's a thicker black wire going to the rear screen heater on pin 1, white in the mating part of the connector pair. Don't use that one.

Oh OK i have that option as well. I guess i need to refer to the manual to see how. Thank you too

- or set it to a point you don't usually wish to exceed.

Not at all, wiring looms are built for individual vehicles. There are no 'extra' plugs on any looms and if a new loom is required it is ordered against the VIN number to be exactly as required for that vehicle.

JR I spoke to VWFS several times I pointed out that I had made payments on a service contract and whilst I was willing to continue to make all the payments due under the plan they were unwilling to provide any of the services that would eventually be paid for. I was not asking for anything not contracted for, I had received no service products from them and they would not transfer the plan to my new car, this would not entail any cost to them greater than the one they had offered as extras needed at service were chargeable and as the cars were near identical no difference in price for a new plan. I asked them to escalate my complaint to the next level and then when they gave me a refusal of refund I could take the complaint to the financial ombudsman. I also asked my local Skoda dealer who had sold me the plan for help, they agreed that I was being treated unfairly and took up my complaint on my behalf with vwfs. prior to receiving their offer of a refund I had" paid for cake yet had not eaten any cake" . There is a term in the contract where it states no refunds or transfers, my warning is that under certain circumstances through no fault of the contract purchaser they cannot utilise the plan and they cannot transfer the plan, as in my case where my car was written off and that prospective purchasers should be aware of this particular drawback. I am not complaining about the eventual outcome of my complaint I am merely warning others not to make the same mistake I made. You state I had the benefit of the plan, this is not true as I received no benefit it is not like insurance or warranty where you have cover for a set period, the service plan is to cover two years servicing and the plan had not been used and never would be used . Skoda admit that their service plan is an effort to maintain customer loyalty for owners of older cars they incentive being Skoda service at a special savings price, by refusing my request in the first instance they were alienating me and creating the opposite to the intended effect. I hope my detailed explanation better defines my reasons for sharing my experience, so others may be warned and that when you complain about unfair treatment and get knocked back you should continue your complaint as often in the end you will succeed.

Thanks for sharing, but somehow I doubt we will ever achieve this because big business and governments want to keep the cash flowing in.

I've had my Karoq over 3 winters including this, and during that time I have only had to scrape my screen once, so it would have been a waste of money to me. The salesman tried to get me to have a heated steering wheel, but I wasn't paying over £300 for that, and I can put up with cold hands for 10 minutes. We do have heated seats, but these were standard. My wife uses hers thre or 4 times a year and I have only used mine a couple of times to try and to test. I wouldn't pay extra for those either.

Haha well donne ! I didn't need a translator

Interesting but start a t4 min to avoid the sponsor

Thanks for the info, within the owners manual it did state that a lower speed rating could be used for witer tyres. Although as we know 'all season tyres', are now often used in which which most are 'v', rated and above within my size, yet they display the snowflake symbol, so they have winter tyre handling caracaristics. I was just wanting to know what was fitted from factory, 91v's were. I dare say probably due to what was available to the manufacturer at the time. I tend to stick with load ratings that we're fitted from factory, too. As there's no reason to fit an higher load rating, either. As one of my tyres has a higher load rating than the rest, another good reason to change it, yet it's not an mot failure, within the eyes of the law it's OK to swap load ratings accross an axle, but within my opinion not good practice. As XL tyres within my experience tend to have a slightly different handle characteristic especially on corners. Maybe we'll get someone come on a say H rated tyres were fitted from factory, as they certainly have a higher enough speed rating for this car.

Strange but is the same as I was operating at the time, I watched enough videos by Mike Brewer to understand how to buy. I was only entertaining well known dealers with decent and respectable premises and stock. Back street operators and private sellers were off my radar as I lack mobility to get down and under and inspect those areas. Anyway, I did eventually find what I was looking for in Mansfield and I got a decent deal and what should be major trouble free motoring for years apart from the normal consumer ables, servicing and annual mot.

You'll find this black wire in position 3 of a 10-way connector pair on the left side of the luggage compartment. Other wires cause the wiper and rear washer to activate in response to stalk inputs. Test it with and without ignition switched on. 🙂

Oh and Easy Entry moves the drivers seat back when you enter the car and moves it forward when you start it. I don’t think you can disable KESSY as I think it’s integrated with the start system, so the car wouldn’t start.

I think that might not be the case these days. That is the premise I went with in April/May when I was looking and every single dealer I visited when it came down to trying to agree a price and or doing any work required on the car, the answer was always the same, zero deals, the price was not negotiable and if there was no detailed service history to show when the toothed cam belt and water pump was or indeed if it had been changed, would they throw in for the asking price, nope. I was a cash buyer, with cash in my pocket, so I walked away. The dealer knew I had the cash, and were happy to watch me walk away as they claimed, they could sell the car quickly anyway, just as it was. And they appeared to be right as well, most of the cars I saw did indeed sell within days of being listed. I was on the verge of giving up on my selection and lowering my standards a little when I saw my current car had just been listed over a weekend, I rang had a chat with the dealer and then drove 150 miles to see the car, all the service history was there, and it was due for the cam belt etc, which the dealer was in the process of doing in his workshops, it had one or 2 minor imperfections which he said he was going to put right before he would let the car go, which he did, at great expense, so I said I'd buy the car and a deal was struck. I'm happy with it, he has good feedback and is an AA approved dealer.

The planetary gears can explode if hydrolock occurs while cranking, someone asked me to spray easi-start into the intake of their diesel Vauxhall Insh1tnia while they cranked and I did exactly as asked not knowing what the result was going to be 😒 The VAG starters are pretty bulletproof though in my experience, I have had one smoking from abuse and it went on for another hundred thousand miles & was still fine when the car was scrapped at 325k miles. Maybe the mechanic saw an opportunity.

Was the car coded to accept a new battery? And are you certain it was the correct battery? Did you really have a hydrolocked engine? If it was then rebuilt maybe it was done badly and it's now causing you problems. Also not sure what a new starter has to do with it unless that was burnt out from turning over after hydrolocking.

Don't know why Skoda stopped the Citigo eiV to be honest. A small town car is ripe for an EV grocery getter I would have thought 🤷

The battery would probably have been disconnected, thats simply the average of the mileage you've done since the clutch, whereas the previous figure would have been an average taken since it was last reset?

I reckon you need to listen to the people who know through experience and training that’s booloks. I just don’t get why you’d disbelieve them?

Watch this, by far the best video I’ve seen and is explaining things nice and clearly even though it is for an Audi it’s essentially same process

Success! I now have full functionality and the glorious sound of smooth radio again. Anyone need the link for eBay (cd was 9 quid) let me know. It worked

As well as having individual light switches, my (albeit 2018) Golf has a separate switch in the overhead binnacle which stops the internal lights from coming on - as in, in the way you describe. Not just switched off are they? Gaz

Does the door(s) open display on the MFD work?

Latest Updated Speedcams - December, 2023. It's been a long wait this time - a whole year! - but at last here's the latest update of my customised version of EUR Speedcams ( December, 2023). They consist of the full EUROPE speed cameras which I've split up into four consolidated poi categories i.e. Fixed Speedcams, Average Speedcams, Variable Speedcams and Redlight Speedcams. They come supplied with my own preferred personal choice of icons, shown below, to match each of the speedcam categories. Remember to Install them as I explained in the first post in this thread i.e. after extracting the zip file remember to open the newly extracted folder and place only the PersonalPOI folder and metainfo2.txt file onto your sd card ( Please Note: a usb stick will not work! ). Also, please remember to select/tick the relevant newly added poi categories and the poi audible warning alert in your infotainment map menu settings after performing the update or they will not display on your map or audibly alert you. Hope you all enjoy them! EUR Speedcams - December, 2023.zip